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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
90HP Evinrude eats jellyfish, now over heats.
|Author||Topic: 90HP Evinrude eats jellyfish, now over heats.|
posted 07-21-2012 07:03 PM ET (US)
Executive summary: The cooling system on my outboard
ingested part of a couple of jellyfish, and now it overheats
The motor is a '97 Evinrude 90HP carbureted two-stroke V4
This morning at the launch ramp there were lots of
We pull the boat, I pull the intake screens off, no jelly
It seems to be happy running at speed. It overheats at
posted 07-21-2012 10:26 PM ET (US)
It's got a good telltale stream, so I don't think it's the
posted 07-21-2012 10:53 PM ET (US)
Sounds like me a week or so ago - no jelly fish in Lake Michigan. I had reasonable telltale too but mechanic inspected the parts and said impeller was shot. Unless those organisms cooked themselves to cooling pathways not sure if boiled jelly fish thicken up like gelatin.
Good luck - I still have not powered up my motor - busy on project, but plan to next couple of days. Mechanic suggested I take garden hose and shoot some water into the pipe with the lower unit off. Did so, nothing whatsoever rinsed out of the motor.
I think our motors are much more sensitive to ingesting gunk, sand, weeds than my Yamaha for sure. Yamaha has never once flinched when in muck and muddy/weedy conditions.
Keep us posted.
posted 07-21-2012 11:48 PM ET (US)
You know, Chuck, you would think if something is jamming up the impeller, that you would have problems at speed as well. I can't help thinking about the long tentacles on jellyfish and wonder if they are an issue. When did you last do a lower unit service and did it include the impeller?
posted 07-22-2012 01:27 AM ET (US)
It's been a while since the impeller was changed out, and
that's on the list to do on general principles.
However, tonight, I pulled the thermostats out (It's easy on this
Tomorrow, I'm going to use the flush port first with the
posted 07-22-2012 02:28 PM ET (US)
I guess I better get an illustration of thermostat location on my 94 Johnson 115. Or web search.
posted 07-22-2012 07:53 PM ET (US)
PeteB88: Your 115 is a 60 degree V4, right? It's probably
the same as mine: At the top center of each head is a black
plastic widget with two sets of hex flats (one 1 1/2", one
13/16"). That unscrews (USE THE BIG SET OF FLATS, you'll
break it if you use the little set, and there's no warning
about that in either the factory or Seloc manuals) and the
thermostat is underneath the cap.
Note: almost all of my motor time has been in salt water.
posted 07-22-2012 07:59 PM ET (US)
If memory serves the thermostats are two gray pods in the middle of the block between the cylinders.
Here it would be above and behind that module on my 1985 V4
posted 07-22-2012 08:57 PM ET (US)
Well, here are fresh images of my motor - my several hours of web time today indicate my motor is "bubble back" design. Chuck, note from photos, my telltale connects to what appears to be a 1/4" barbed fitting and not a nice hose connection.
My guess is the thermostats are buried under that steel bulge but not yet sure. I am also considering pulling the clamps on both hoses that fit into the manifold (ECU photo) below the bubble.
Standing by for any help. [Absurdly long URL deleted--jimh]
posted 07-22-2012 09:01 PM ET (US)
Sorry about the link -
posted 07-23-2012 12:37 AM ET (US)
Teak Oil: Yours is old enough it must be a 90 degree V4.
Mine is a 60 degree V4. I'm not sure when OMC changed over
Pete: I'd suggest going to http://shop2.evinrude.com/ and drill down to your engine and see where the
posted 07-23-2012 07:29 AM ET (US)
The 60° V4 was introduced in 1995 and the 90° was still produced for several years after that as the economy outboard in 88, 90, and 112 hp models.
posted 07-23-2012 09:36 AM ET (US)
Yep - buttons are on stb side, so must be 90 degree - now what??
posted 07-23-2012 09:49 AM ET (US)
My guess is the thermostat(s) is located at the bottom of the photo where two hoses enter what is likely to be the thermostat cover. Now - question - do I pull all that appart to inspect for crud and replace thermostats, assuming I have located them or leave it?
Also - where can I find torque specs besides a real shop manual? Where can I get a real shop manual?
Thanks, standing by and best to all.
posted 07-23-2012 12:22 PM ET (US)
Replace the thermostats, gaskets, and grommets. Make sure the white plastic pressure relief valves are free.
The torque on the 1/4-20 bolts is 5-7 ft. lbs or 60-84 in. lbs.
File a very small notch in each white valve to help drain the thermostat housing and to bleed the air quickly when starting up the motor.
posted 07-23-2012 12:52 PM ET (US)
Thanks big time.
posted 07-23-2012 03:15 PM ET (US)
I got my factory service manual (FSM) from an Evinrude dealer a
The Evinrude online site sells them from 1997 forward, and
The Seloc manual covers basically ALL the V engine Evinrudes,
posted 07-25-2012 01:02 AM ET (US)
Thanks Chuck and Seahorse - pump works great however one side's hotter than the other and I started a new thread thinking the experience might help someone else. It's going to be a few days before I can get to the boat - definitely going to get new themostats but worried that something else is plugged up.
best to you guys. and thanks
posted 07-27-2012 12:39 PM ET (US)
Linda picked up the last parts yesterday, then we had to go
back to get the right thermostats. (Although I have an
A-suffix model number it needs C-suffix thermostats). I
replaced the thermostats and retorqued the heads last night
and did the waterpump last night and this morning. The
hardest part was figuring out how to get the shiftlever
loose at the powerhead end. I had to disassemble a bit of
the linkage to get things to move far enought for it to
There was no smoking gun in the waterpump. It actually looked
I still have to put the gear case back on, and pick up a new
posted 07-27-2012 01:18 PM ET (US)
If the shift rod is like mine there is a clevis pin you pulled when you removed the gear box. The rod has a hole in it at distal end. When you reinstall (grease the gear first) what worked for us (two person operation) is to 1) make sure shift rod is properly oriented to engage shift mechanism and pin once installed (expect it to rotate slightly), 2) tilt motor almost full up, 3) with helper, ease the lower unit back in place, while you very slightly rotate flywheel proper direction until shaft meshes with power head - very easy 4) once in place use good flashlight to determine orientation of shift rod, 5) checking at the bottom of the lower cowling and forward edge of the motor shaft you will see an access spot/gap where a few centimeters of the SS shift rod is visible 6) you can rotate the shift rod with long needle nose pliers from that access point while observing above. 7 locate the hole where clevis is inserted in horizontal pin that engages the shift rod 8) once you confirm how things are supposed to fit together, position the rod, shift mechanism and pin and once in place pin it in place with clevis pin.
My neighbor, retired tool and die man, figured it all out and spotted the hole in the shifter where clevis goes - he jumped in and bailed me out, I was the helper.
We used a AA Pelican LCD light with very focused beam to identify all these components and holes.
The key was finding that access port below the power head so we could position the rod once installed.
posted 07-27-2012 04:52 PM ET (US)
I could see everything (sorta) and get things lined up, but
it wouldn't quite go. When I removed the side plate on the
starboard lower carb, I could move things about 3/32" further
and I was done in 90 seconds.
I just ran it at idle for 20 minutes in a big tub of water.
It may have been my imagination, but it seemed like the
We're off to test in the ocean.
posted 07-27-2012 05:23 PM ET (US)
Excellent - telltale on my motor was significantly stronger - no question. Going to get into it tonight and tomorrow to determine what is making right side hotter than the left - When I ran mine no audible alarm but still too hot to run.
Have a great time.
posted 07-27-2012 07:46 PM ET (US)
It passed the sea trial just fine. Dive tomorrow.
posted 07-27-2012 09:36 PM ET (US)
I envy you Mr Tribolet- how cool.
posted 07-27-2012 10:47 PM ET (US)
Actually I should have said - it would be cool to follow you guys out to your dive spot. To be clear, Lake Michigan is pretty boring compared to Pacific - and lifeless. It is not a prolific marine environment as your waters in any way. Although the water at the beach is high 70s and that's kinda cool.
posted 07-28-2012 08:59 AM ET (US)
Well, we had 47F on the bottom last weekend, IIRC.
And pretty lousy vis.
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