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Author Topic:   What to put back in the rigging tunnel.

JMARTIN posted 11-05-2012 11:57 PM ET (US)
My TeleFlex dual cable steering has lost a cable so off came the deck on my 1983 22 Revenge. The rigging tunnel looks like it has: steering cable, original float activated bilge Rule 1500 and wires and a large gauge positive and negative wire that I have not traced.
This is a wet spot. Should I move the wires? Can I replace the cables without removing the engine? I like the steering and do not want to upgrade.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF0629.jpg
I am going to replace the tank, it will be 30 in 15 days according to the "OK coS 11/20/82" still visible on the tank. I have some blistering on the stern end of the fuel cavity. The fuel siphoned great through the thru hull on the bottom of the bait locker.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF0631.jpg
John
jimh posted 11-06-2012 07:26 AM ET (US)
On my 1990 Boston Whaler REVENGE 22 W-T Whaler Drive I moved all of the electrical rigging out of the rigging tunnel and ran it under the Starboard gunwale, leaving only the hydraulic steering lines in the tunnel. I never liked the idea of a lot of electrical cables sitting in water all the time. It seems like there is always a bit of water in the rigging tunnel.
Later I moved the SONAR transducer cable back to the rigging tunnel in order to isolate it from the other electrical cables because I noticed that there was some interference in the display on the SONAR. The interference was probably originating from the KILL circuit in the engine wiring harness, and the SONAR transducer cable was bundled with that harness.
As it happened, I changed the rigging on the engine to a digital control system (using the Evinrude ICON controls) and there is no longer a high-voltage KILL circuit in the engine rigging harness. I then moved the SONAR transducer cable back to the under-gunwale path. There is no interference problem with that installation. I don't see the engine harness interfering with the SONAR, and the SONAR does not seem to cause any problems with the digital circuits of the control cable. The SONAR cable is carrying a large pulse of DC, perhaps a 100-volts or more, and I was concerned that might have some effect on the digital control wiring, but I have never seen any sign of interaction.
Now the only cables in the rigging tunnel are the two hydraulic lines for the steering. The rigging tunnel is very easy to keep clean and free from the usual marine growth gunk that tends to build up in there. Last time I looked closely the rigging tunnel was free of any slimy build up on the cables.
contender posted 11-06-2012 10:33 AM ET (US)
Jim makes some good points, if you want to keep your wires/cables dry try building a bridge out of pvc to rest your wires/cables on in the tunnel, the tunnel is deep enough for this and would keep the wires/cables dry unless the water comes over the bridge. Just cut a length of pvc and lay it in the tunnel then lay your wires cables on top...While you have it open I would replace the bilge pump as well unless its easy to get to. Also use some dridec under the new fuel tank to keep it dry and for the water to be able to escape to the bilge/drain...
JMARTIN posted 11-06-2012 11:40 AM ET (US)
Thanks, I will move the wires. There is no bilge drain in the fuel cavity. I have not decided yet if I am going to put in another thru hull to the stern compartment or a hose out the fuel line opening that I can put a manual pump on.
John
outragesteve posted 11-06-2012 01:22 PM ET (US)
John: Since you have gone this far on your project, I suggest you upgrade to hydraulic steering. Easy to install, easy to maintain, and easier to steer! Dual cable mechanical steering is antiquated and requires periodic maintenance. In the case of adding an autopilot, hydraulic steering is a must. This upgrade to your Revenge will also add value when it comes time to sell. Remember, put two pull lines in your tunnel for future use. Good luck!
JMARTIN posted 11-06-2012 01:38 PM ET (US)
I like the "hard to steer" steering in the boat. I will walk away from the helm quite often and I want the boat to continue on course with no one at the wheel. This one lasted 30 years with zero maintenance and some neglect. It is still a precise, no play, steering set up with only one really good cable.
John
andygere posted 11-08-2012 11:53 AM ET (US)
John, you are into it now! The nice thing about a Revenge is that it's relatively easy to get the control cables and wiring under the gunwale. On my Outrage, everything is in the tunnel except the primary and ground wiring that go to the console and T-top; those are under the gunwale, and snake under the small square access floor panel adjacent to the console where they join the rigging tunnel.
I haven't had any problems with cables and hoses in the rigging tunnel, other than getting them in and out. That said, the less stuff that can get wet, the better. I think it makes sense to leave the bilge pump wiring in there, so long as any splices are waterproof. The pumps always come with short electrical leads that require a splice, so there's no way to home run them to the switch and power source. I've had good luck with Anchor heat-shrink butt connectors, double sealed with a length of glue infused heat-shrink tubing over the top. When I haven't been able to find that, I just paint the whole connector with liquid electrical tape. It's messy, but I've never had one fail. I would go ahead and replace the pump if you ever run with your sump plugs in, and get the highest capacity pump you can find. I think the Rule 2000 fits in there, and may snap to the same pump base.
If you like the mechanical steering, keep it. I had it, and it was fine, but when I re-powered I replaced it with a Sea Star since the cable and helm were old and worn, and I would have needed to buy a new fit kit for the motor end anyway. One nice aspect of the twin cable system is that it never needs bleeding, and it never leaks. I suspect those systems actually require less maintenance than the hydraulic units.
JMARTIN posted 02-05-2013 01:24 PM ET (US)
I have decided to leave the bilge pump wires in the tunnel. There does not seem to be a good way to get wires to the bilge pump if I run them under the gunnel.
John

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Author	Topic: What to put back in the rigging tunnel.
JMARTIN	posted 11-05-2012 11:57 PM ET (US) My TeleFlex dual cable steering has lost a cable so off came the deck on my 1983 22 Revenge. The rigging tunnel looks like it has: steering cable, original float activated bilge Rule 1500 and wires and a large gauge positive and negative wire that I have not traced. This is a wet spot. Should I move the wires? Can I replace the cables without removing the engine? I like the steering and do not want to upgrade. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF0629.jpg I am going to replace the tank, it will be 30 in 15 days according to the "OK coS 11/20/82" still visible on the tank. I have some blistering on the stern end of the fuel cavity. The fuel siphoned great through the thru hull on the bottom of the bait locker. http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/jmartin-/DSCF0631.jpg John
jimh	posted 11-06-2012 07:26 AM ET (US) On my 1990 Boston Whaler REVENGE 22 W-T Whaler Drive I moved all of the electrical rigging out of the rigging tunnel and ran it under the Starboard gunwale, leaving only the hydraulic steering lines in the tunnel. I never liked the idea of a lot of electrical cables sitting in water all the time. It seems like there is always a bit of water in the rigging tunnel. Later I moved the SONAR transducer cable back to the rigging tunnel in order to isolate it from the other electrical cables because I noticed that there was some interference in the display on the SONAR. The interference was probably originating from the KILL circuit in the engine wiring harness, and the SONAR transducer cable was bundled with that harness. As it happened, I changed the rigging on the engine to a digital control system (using the Evinrude ICON controls) and there is no longer a high-voltage KILL circuit in the engine rigging harness. I then moved the SONAR transducer cable back to the under-gunwale path. There is no interference problem with that installation. I don't see the engine harness interfering with the SONAR, and the SONAR does not seem to cause any problems with the digital circuits of the control cable. The SONAR cable is carrying a large pulse of DC, perhaps a 100-volts or more, and I was concerned that might have some effect on the digital control wiring, but I have never seen any sign of interaction. Now the only cables in the rigging tunnel are the two hydraulic lines for the steering. The rigging tunnel is very easy to keep clean and free from the usual marine growth gunk that tends to build up in there. Last time I looked closely the rigging tunnel was free of any slimy build up on the cables.
contender	posted 11-06-2012 10:33 AM ET (US) Jim makes some good points, if you want to keep your wires/cables dry try building a bridge out of pvc to rest your wires/cables on in the tunnel, the tunnel is deep enough for this and would keep the wires/cables dry unless the water comes over the bridge. Just cut a length of pvc and lay it in the tunnel then lay your wires cables on top...While you have it open I would replace the bilge pump as well unless its easy to get to. Also use some dridec under the new fuel tank to keep it dry and for the water to be able to escape to the bilge/drain...
JMARTIN	posted 11-06-2012 11:40 AM ET (US) Thanks, I will move the wires. There is no bilge drain in the fuel cavity. I have not decided yet if I am going to put in another thru hull to the stern compartment or a hose out the fuel line opening that I can put a manual pump on. John
outragesteve	posted 11-06-2012 01:22 PM ET (US) John: Since you have gone this far on your project, I suggest you upgrade to hydraulic steering. Easy to install, easy to maintain, and easier to steer! Dual cable mechanical steering is antiquated and requires periodic maintenance. In the case of adding an autopilot, hydraulic steering is a must. This upgrade to your Revenge will also add value when it comes time to sell. Remember, put two pull lines in your tunnel for future use. Good luck!
JMARTIN	posted 11-06-2012 01:38 PM ET (US) I like the "hard to steer" steering in the boat. I will walk away from the helm quite often and I want the boat to continue on course with no one at the wheel. This one lasted 30 years with zero maintenance and some neglect. It is still a precise, no play, steering set up with only one really good cable. John
andygere	posted 11-08-2012 11:53 AM ET (US) John, you are into it now! The nice thing about a Revenge is that it's relatively easy to get the control cables and wiring under the gunwale. On my Outrage, everything is in the tunnel except the primary and ground wiring that go to the console and T-top; those are under the gunwale, and snake under the small square access floor panel adjacent to the console where they join the rigging tunnel. I haven't had any problems with cables and hoses in the rigging tunnel, other than getting them in and out. That said, the less stuff that can get wet, the better. I think it makes sense to leave the bilge pump wiring in there, so long as any splices are waterproof. The pumps always come with short electrical leads that require a splice, so there's no way to home run them to the switch and power source. I've had good luck with Anchor heat-shrink butt connectors, double sealed with a length of glue infused heat-shrink tubing over the top. When I haven't been able to find that, I just paint the whole connector with liquid electrical tape. It's messy, but I've never had one fail. I would go ahead and replace the pump if you ever run with your sump plugs in, and get the highest capacity pump you can find. I think the Rule 2000 fits in there, and may snap to the same pump base. If you like the mechanical steering, keep it. I had it, and it was fine, but when I re-powered I replaced it with a Sea Star since the cable and helm were old and worn, and I would have needed to buy a new fit kit for the motor end anyway. One nice aspect of the twin cable system is that it never needs bleeding, and it never leaks. I suspect those systems actually require less maintenance than the hydraulic units.
JMARTIN	posted 02-05-2013 01:24 PM ET (US) I have decided to leave the bilge pump wires in the tunnel. There does not seem to be a good way to get wires to the bilge pump if I run them under the gunnel. John