Through-hull replacement, which sealer and which material?

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  Through-hull replacement, which sealer and which material?

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Author Topic:   Through-hull replacement, which sealer and which material?

weekendwarrior posted 03-16-2013 07:25 PM ET (US)
My 1996 Montauk bottom rear through-hull needs to be replaced. I noticed a few drips of water around it even though the boat had been out of the water and the tunnel was bone dry (yikes!), so apparently it's got a small leak.
I bought a OEM replacement through-hull, it's plastic and neither end threads on. One end is molded in, the other slips-on. I didn't know this until I took delivery. Is anyone aware of an alternative, in any material, that threads together? I'm concerned the slip-fit will not hold up as well as a thread-fit. I'm wondering if this is why my original started to leak...
Also would you guys recommend 3M 5200, or 4200 to seal this up? I've never used 4200, so I'm uneasy about its sealing strength over the long run.
huckelberry145 posted 03-17-2013 05:35 PM ET (US)
Definitely 3-M 4200. I don't care for the PVC drain tubes but once the hull is drilled for them you cant go back to brass. I stayed with the PVC type so I could keep my drain plug on the inside. I've seen some solid brass drains in West Marine but the problem I saw was a way to piece them together inside the hull, and, the plug would thread into the outside. I was very nervous about drilling and screwing into the hull below the waterline and spending $200 to experiment with solid brass scuppers. But there still might be something out the that will replace the PVC.
weekendwarrior posted 03-17-2013 08:50 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply. I don't necessarily mind the pvc material so much given the location, but I sure do wish it threaded together instead of just slip-fit. I'm nervous that it will separate after some time. I guess I shouldn't be given how long the original lasted, but I am. ;)
huckelberry145 posted 03-18-2013 07:42 AM ET (US)
The slip fit is pretty tight. I had to use the moller brass tube crimp tool to get mine in.
Tom W Clark posted 03-18-2013 09:50 AM ET (US)
You can use either 3M 5200 or 4200, it won't make any practical difference. I prefer the FC (Fast Cure) versions of both.
If you have a plastic drain tubes now, you are stuck with them; the hole in the hull will be too large for brass.

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Author	Topic: Through-hull replacement, which sealer and which material?
weekendwarrior	posted 03-16-2013 07:25 PM ET (US) My 1996 Montauk bottom rear through-hull needs to be replaced. I noticed a few drips of water around it even though the boat had been out of the water and the tunnel was bone dry (yikes!), so apparently it's got a small leak. I bought a OEM replacement through-hull, it's plastic and neither end threads on. One end is molded in, the other slips-on. I didn't know this until I took delivery. Is anyone aware of an alternative, in any material, that threads together? I'm concerned the slip-fit will not hold up as well as a thread-fit. I'm wondering if this is why my original started to leak... Also would you guys recommend 3M 5200, or 4200 to seal this up? I've never used 4200, so I'm uneasy about its sealing strength over the long run.
huckelberry145	posted 03-17-2013 05:35 PM ET (US) Definitely 3-M 4200. I don't care for the PVC drain tubes but once the hull is drilled for them you cant go back to brass. I stayed with the PVC type so I could keep my drain plug on the inside. I've seen some solid brass drains in West Marine but the problem I saw was a way to piece them together inside the hull, and, the plug would thread into the outside. I was very nervous about drilling and screwing into the hull below the waterline and spending $200 to experiment with solid brass scuppers. But there still might be something out the that will replace the PVC.
weekendwarrior	posted 03-17-2013 08:50 PM ET (US) Thanks for the reply. I don't necessarily mind the pvc material so much given the location, but I sure do wish it threaded together instead of just slip-fit. I'm nervous that it will separate after some time. I guess I shouldn't be given how long the original lasted, but I am. ;)
huckelberry145	posted 03-18-2013 07:42 AM ET (US) The slip fit is pretty tight. I had to use the moller brass tube crimp tool to get mine in.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-18-2013 09:50 AM ET (US) You can use either 3M 5200 or 4200, it won't make any practical difference. I prefer the FC (Fast Cure) versions of both. If you have a plastic drain tubes now, you are stuck with them; the hole in the hull will be too large for brass.