Instalilng hydraulic steering in a '79 Outrage V-22'

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Author Topic:   Instalilng hydraulic steering in a '79 Outrage V-22'

standard 17 posted 04-12-2013 05:59 PM ET (US)
I'm trying to judge if I'm man enough to replace the mechanical steering in my Outrage. After watching an installation, it appears to be within my skill level. My concern is that I will have trouble finding parts that will work with my twin '83 Johnson 115s. Anybody have thoughts, advice or warnings?
Thanks,
Ted
contender posted 04-13-2013 03:39 PM ET (US)
The good: hydraulic steering will be nice, You can steer the boat with one finger, and let go of the wheel while under way. Looks nicer and a cleaner installation.
The bad: cost you are going to spend about $1000.00 by the time you are done if you purchase the big system with the good hoses (I do not care what anyone tells you trust me it will be $1000.00), I do not think they last as long and the repairs are not cheap. You will need two people to install the steering (you just can not be at the helm and at the cylinder at the same time to bleed the system). If you can live with the cost go for it, I put one on my 17 whaler just because I wanted to get rid of the big black cable that looped in front of the engine, and I was rebuilding the boat after 37 years of use, but the old teleflex system worked just fine.
Buckda posted 04-13-2013 04:52 PM ET (US)
Teleflex has a tie-bar kit that will work with your motors just fine. You will want to watch e-Bay carefully....that tie-bar is one of the most expensive parts in the system and can cost you upwards of $450 easily, but you can buy it right for about $300.
Since you have twins, you will want to go with the SeaStar system if you go Teleflex, vs. the BayStar system.
So...you'll need a helm/pump, hoses, steering cylinder and the tie-bar kit.
standard 17 posted 04-14-2013 08:41 PM ET (US)
I'm trying it.
It looks easy enough. The shops are backed up almost a month now and I'll save a chunk on labor. The Seastar front mount, single cylinder for non-counter rotating engines with tie bar kit H06003 appears to be what I need.
I love my boat but the steering is tough.
Ted
jimh posted 04-15-2013 08:53 AM ET (US)
I have done a bit of work on the hydraulic steering systems of my last two boats. The most difficult part of the installation, in my opinion, will be to bleed air from the system, particularly if your system employs two actuating rams. Teleflex generally supplies instructions and give a procedure to perform to bleed air from the system. The procedure can be tedious and can also use a lot of expensive hydraulic fluid if you are not careful. The newer-style Teleflex fittings on the actuator rams now have a provision for a bleed fitting from which you can recover the hydraulic fluid. This can help reduce the amount of wasted hydraulic fluid that will result from the air bleeding.
The last time my hydraulic steering system was opened and needed bleeding, my trusted local dealer, LOCKEMAN'S HARDWARE and BOAT, performed the system bleed using a specialized device from Teleflex called a Power Bleeder. This accessory accomplished the system bleed in just a minute or two. The hydraulic steering never felt better or tighter as it did after the power bleed operation.
jflots posted 04-15-2013 09:59 AM ET (US)
I'm in the process of doing this on my '88 18 Outrage/135 Merc and am using U-flex. I have the old steering out, the cylinder installed on the engine, hoses pulled through the rigging tunnel and the hole opened up on the console. The helm pump is a few inches taller than the old helm bezel so I'm using their adapter kit to recess it into the helm face, hence the bigger hole. The cylinder comes with a package of spacers to center the cylinder on different outboards. I'm not finished yet but so far it's pretty straight forward.
good luck.
Tom W Clark posted 04-15-2013 11:22 AM ET (US)
Ted -- The advice offered thus far is generally accurate. There are any number of options you could choose for installing hydraulic steering on your boat, but a front mounted Teleflex cylinder and Teleflex helm are by far the most common.
For your 1983 Johnson 115s, you need the HC5348 cylinder, if you choose to go with a front mount cylinder. Because these are far less common, you will pay a little more for one and thy are harder to find on the used market.
Given that you have twins now, I would presume you already have a tie bar and that can be reused, though pat very careful attention to the installation instructing of whatever cylinder you end up using. Teleflex offers all their installation manuals in PDF form on their web site so I suggest you read before you buy.
I agree with Jim, the bleeding is the most difficult part of the installation; it takes two people and you need to work fast, but it does not require much skill.
The only problem you may face is if the tilt tube of your starboard motor is rusty it will make installation of the cylinder difficult. Consider buying and installing a new tilt tube if yours is rusty.
For a helm, I suggets you select the SeaStar 2.0 cubic inch helm instead of the more common 1.7 cubic inch as this will offer you a little faster steering. I find the 1.7 takes too much turning of the steering wheel to alter course.
L H G posted 04-15-2013 04:24 PM ET (US)
I did the exact same conversion you are talking about on my Outrage 18. It's not a difficult job at all.
Unlike others, I strongly recommend the SIDE mount cylinder for a clean installation, cylinder mounted between the engines, and that will allow you to use your existing tie bar. Jim wrote up an article on my installation:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/standardTransomBracket.html
You will need to use the back mount plate to install the helm
Tom W Clark posted 04-15-2013 05:02 PM ET (US)
I really like Larry's side mount installation. It has a lot to recommend it, especially if you reverse your tilt tube so you can mount the cylinder between the motors.
Whaler used 22' hoses when they equipped the Outrage 22s with optional Teleflex hydraulic steering, but that was for the front mount cylinder which needs slack for the cylinder to move back and forth. I suspect you would make use of 20' hoses if you use a side mount cylinder.
L H G posted 04-15-2013 11:41 PM ET (US)
Tom - Even though reversing a tilt tube is not a big job, the steering can be set up the same way by installing the cylinder in the port engine. That way no reversal is needed.
The benefit of reversing the tilt tube is to take advantage of additional "pushing out" power of the unbalanced cylinder to more effectively counter the twin non-counter rotating prop torque at the wheel.
standard 17 posted 04-16-2013 12:40 PM ET (US)
Ok, so I have my shopping list. If I go with Larry's side mount, reuse the tie bar and Tom's helm recommendation:
cylinder side mount HC5370
helm HH5770
hose HO5122
3 quarts hydraulic fluid HA5430
bleed kit HF4202
West Marine $1320

Am I missing anything?
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 12:50 PM ET (US)
You will also want the back mount kit, part # HA5418
The current part number of the side mount cylinder is HC5370-3, though the older version would work too if you find one on eBay.
HO5122 are 22' hoses. Those will be too long.
If you are going to reverse the tilt tube, and I recommend you do so for the reason Larry points out (it is a very clever detail), you would do well to buy a new stainless steel version of that part; in 1983 the OMC tilt tubes were not stainless.
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 01:11 PM ET (US)
You may want the fill kit, Part # HA5438
You do not need that bleed fitting kit, HF4202
andygere posted 04-16-2013 01:17 PM ET (US)
Standard, West Marine is perhaps the most expensive place to buy these components, and getting expert advice from them...well, it's not going to happen.
When I installed hydraulic steering on my Outrage 22 Cuddy, I bought all the components from Boat Store USA. I compared prices on-line, but ordered by phone and got expert service and advice. This company sells a tremendous volume of steering systems, and has great pricing as a result. They were willing to substitute different length hoses into one of their complete kits for me at no additional charge. This is a large brick and mortar operation that also has an on-line presence. All components were in stock and shipped fast, and this company is highly recommended by me.
http://www.boatstoreusa.com/categories/hydraulic-mechanical/ seastar-baystar-systems-1.html
andygere posted 04-16-2013 01:22 PM ET (US)
The same parts Standard listed from West Marine at a total of $1320 are $1,045.44 at Boat Store USA.
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 01:23 PM ET (US)
And the helm you want is part # HH5271 not HH5770 (which is the Pro version, unless you want the Pro in which case you need to upgrade to the kevlar reinforced Pro Hoses).
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 01:34 PM ET (US)
With the standard helm, 20' hoses, the back mount kit, and a fill kit the Boat Store USA total is $997.87 plus about $30 for shipping.
Not bad.
standard 17 posted 04-16-2013 01:42 PM ET (US)
Yep, have it all in my shopping cart Boat Store USA-
thanks Tom and Andy!
Tom, how do I bleed the system without the kit?
Ted
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 01:57 PM ET (US)
Read the installation manual:
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/343322B2.pdf
Tom W Clark posted 04-16-2013 02:08 PM ET (US)
To clarify: You cannot use a Pro helm with the side mount cylinder because it is not balanced.
L H G posted 04-16-2013 03:00 PM ET (US)
If interested, I have a used side mount cylinder in excellent condition, removed from my Outrage 25 because it needs a new seal kit installed (it leaks!). It could also use the newer style bleed "tee" fittings, although the original ones on there work fine (just messy to bleed).
The cylinder kit is complete, no corrosion at all, and includes the ram sleeve and pin, and will look brand new when installed.
Since I don't have the workbench setup or tools to install a new seal kit (about $43), I was planning on sending it to an authorized Teleflex repair facility. I figure their cost would be around $150 for the seal rebuild job.
http://www.surplusunlimited.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD& Store_Code=1&Product_Code=4571&Category_Code=2300-70
$95 to your door. This could save you some money on the overall cost of the project, even more so if you can do the seal replacement yourself.
standard 17 posted 04-17-2013 12:09 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the offer LHG, I'm going new.
What is involved in reversing the tilt tub. Does not the weight of the engine bear on it?
Ted
Tom W Clark posted 04-17-2013 06:32 PM ET (US)
I think reversing the tilt tube is going to be difficult, mostly because I am going to assume after 30 years, your tilt tube is a bit rusty.
Yes, the entire weight of the motor is supported by the tilt tube. That does not *necessarily* mean the motor needs to be removed from the hull, though I suspect that is what will need to happen.
Larry used a very clever technique of using a new tilt tube to drive the old tilt tube out. If you can do that, there is no need to support the motor's weight.
The problem with that technique is that it will only work if the tilt tube is not rusty and is well lubricated so it can slide out. My experience with my old Mercury's is that tilt tubes are "one" with the clamp brackets.
OMC did not use any stainless steel tilt tubes until 1990, so there will be no SS part for your motor shown on any parts diagram. However, I believe there is a stainless steel versions of your tilt tube that was used in 1990 and 1991. In 1992 most (but not all) of the motors went to the "Fast Track" midsection and I *think* the tilt tube changed along with it so there is not a direct compatibility of those later tilt tubes (but I could be wrong).
According to the factory parts diagram for your motor, your tilt tube is # 0321052 (current BRP part number) and the SS version is 0335553 which is an obsolete part number, though there are still some old-stock parts out there.
Here is one, at a very good price:
http://www.duskyonline.com/0335553.html
You should verify the parts compatibility with somebody more knowledgable than me.
L H G posted 04-17-2013 08:04 PM ET (US)
By using a pair of wrenches, it is fairly easy to break loose the nuts that hold the tilt tube in place, and to get the tube rotating. First, get one nut loose on the end you want to slide through, backed off a little. Then put the wrench on the other nut, and see if you can get the whole tube rotating. When that happens, tighten up the other nut again, and break the opposite nut loose, if you can. If you can't, leave it on while you drive out the whole tilt tube.
I strongly recommend purchase of a new tube, and maybe a new nut on the end to which the cylinder will screw on. For the ram exit side, you want to buy a Steersman grease lube/o-ring nut anyway. Do not replace the original OMC o-ring seal in the tube. The Steersman now does that function, and allows to inject grease BEHIND the seal. This is the secret of it's success. It can easily be unscrewed and slid off the ram at any time for a new seal, cleaning of the steering ram and re-greasing. With a Steersman, properly used and serviced, you will NEVER have an internally corroded, or frozen tilt tube again.
I trim the engine vertically, and put blocking under the skeg. Then you can carefully use the trailer jack to take as much weight as possible off the engine bracketand tilt tube. This makes it's easy to drive out the old tube using the new one (be sure you re-install it in the opposite direction!). Then save the old tube. It can be used for this purpose again if needed.
standard 17 posted 04-18-2013 12:48 PM ET (US)
The engines and boat spent the first 28+ years in Minnesota and Wisconsin. When the boat arrived here 2 years ago, the engines were free of any corrosion, since then it's been in the salt a good bit. I'll try to figure out the tube's condition and if it's not bad, I'll go the LHG side-mount route. If it is, I may have to reevaluate.
Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know what I find.
Ted
jimh posted 04-18-2013 08:38 PM ET (US)
Before you use a side-mount actuator, you have to abandon any thought of an auto-pilot. You cannot use an auto-pilot with any asymmetrical cylinder actuator, and that is what a side-mount actuator will be. This is a substantial drawback to the side-mount hydraulic cylinder method. If you have no plans to ever use an auto-pilot, then this drawback is not particularly a burden. The one oddity of the side-mount asymmetrical cylinder is the difference in number of turns in CW and CCW rotation of the helm. You really don't notice this when steering unless you consciously pay attention to it.
The side-mount actuator has the advantage of letting the hydraulic hoses remain stationary. It does stick out a bit and is exposed, unless you mount it in-between the twin engines.
standard 17 posted 04-19-2013 10:15 AM ET (US)
As I am rereading everyone's input, I caught LHG's reply that I can mount to the port engine and avoid the tube reversal. I didn't catch that he first time through. It would be a cleaner look, but no advantage on the push out. Am I understanding this correctly?
Ted
L H G posted 04-19-2013 04:40 PM ET (US)
Yes, the side mount cylinder can be mounted in the Port engine and steering will still have very little pull, if any. Reversing the tilt tube is not mandatory in any way.
That is the way it is usually installed in all single engine spplications anyway, and I have never heard anyone complain about wheel pull, as here:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/images/ETEC250HO/ ETEC250Transom640x475.jpg
As you can see, Jimh never bothered to reverse his.
The difference in the push-pull force of the cylinder on engine steering is not that great. All tilt tube reversal does is take advantage of the small difference that does exist, for the ultimate in effortless steering.
For a premium twin cylinder installation, it obviously becomes necessary, and then the total system becomes perfectly balanced again. Whaler furnished this system on twin engine Whaler Drive models. See here on my Outrage 25
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2025/MVI_0147.mp4. html?sort=6&o=15#/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2025/MVI_0147.mp4. html?sort=6&o=15&_suid=136640289668603325161166217426

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Author	Topic: Instalilng hydraulic steering in a '79 Outrage V-22'
standard 17	posted 04-12-2013 05:59 PM ET (US) I'm trying to judge if I'm man enough to replace the mechanical steering in my Outrage. After watching an installation, it appears to be within my skill level. My concern is that I will have trouble finding parts that will work with my twin '83 Johnson 115s. Anybody have thoughts, advice or warnings? Thanks, Ted
contender	posted 04-13-2013 03:39 PM ET (US) The good: hydraulic steering will be nice, You can steer the boat with one finger, and let go of the wheel while under way. Looks nicer and a cleaner installation. The bad: cost you are going to spend about $1000.00 by the time you are done if you purchase the big system with the good hoses (I do not care what anyone tells you trust me it will be $1000.00), I do not think they last as long and the repairs are not cheap. You will need two people to install the steering (you just can not be at the helm and at the cylinder at the same time to bleed the system). If you can live with the cost go for it, I put one on my 17 whaler just because I wanted to get rid of the big black cable that looped in front of the engine, and I was rebuilding the boat after 37 years of use, but the old teleflex system worked just fine.
Buckda	posted 04-13-2013 04:52 PM ET (US) Teleflex has a tie-bar kit that will work with your motors just fine. You will want to watch e-Bay carefully....that tie-bar is one of the most expensive parts in the system and can cost you upwards of $450 easily, but you can buy it right for about $300. Since you have twins, you will want to go with the SeaStar system if you go Teleflex, vs. the BayStar system. So...you'll need a helm/pump, hoses, steering cylinder and the tie-bar kit.
standard 17	posted 04-14-2013 08:41 PM ET (US) I'm trying it. It looks easy enough. The shops are backed up almost a month now and I'll save a chunk on labor. The Seastar front mount, single cylinder for non-counter rotating engines with tie bar kit H06003 appears to be what I need. I love my boat but the steering is tough. Ted
jimh	posted 04-15-2013 08:53 AM ET (US) I have done a bit of work on the hydraulic steering systems of my last two boats. The most difficult part of the installation, in my opinion, will be to bleed air from the system, particularly if your system employs two actuating rams. Teleflex generally supplies instructions and give a procedure to perform to bleed air from the system. The procedure can be tedious and can also use a lot of expensive hydraulic fluid if you are not careful. The newer-style Teleflex fittings on the actuator rams now have a provision for a bleed fitting from which you can recover the hydraulic fluid. This can help reduce the amount of wasted hydraulic fluid that will result from the air bleeding. The last time my hydraulic steering system was opened and needed bleeding, my trusted local dealer, LOCKEMAN'S HARDWARE and BOAT, performed the system bleed using a specialized device from Teleflex called a Power Bleeder. This accessory accomplished the system bleed in just a minute or two. The hydraulic steering never felt better or tighter as it did after the power bleed operation.
jflots	posted 04-15-2013 09:59 AM ET (US) I'm in the process of doing this on my '88 18 Outrage/135 Merc and am using U-flex. I have the old steering out, the cylinder installed on the engine, hoses pulled through the rigging tunnel and the hole opened up on the console. The helm pump is a few inches taller than the old helm bezel so I'm using their adapter kit to recess it into the helm face, hence the bigger hole. The cylinder comes with a package of spacers to center the cylinder on different outboards. I'm not finished yet but so far it's pretty straight forward. good luck.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-15-2013 11:22 AM ET (US) Ted -- The advice offered thus far is generally accurate. There are any number of options you could choose for installing hydraulic steering on your boat, but a front mounted Teleflex cylinder and Teleflex helm are by far the most common. For your 1983 Johnson 115s, you need the HC5348 cylinder, if you choose to go with a front mount cylinder. Because these are far less common, you will pay a little more for one and thy are harder to find on the used market. Given that you have twins now, I would presume you already have a tie bar and that can be reused, though pat very careful attention to the installation instructing of whatever cylinder you end up using. Teleflex offers all their installation manuals in PDF form on their web site so I suggest you read before you buy. I agree with Jim, the bleeding is the most difficult part of the installation; it takes two people and you need to work fast, but it does not require much skill. The only problem you may face is if the tilt tube of your starboard motor is rusty it will make installation of the cylinder difficult. Consider buying and installing a new tilt tube if yours is rusty. For a helm, I suggets you select the SeaStar 2.0 cubic inch helm instead of the more common 1.7 cubic inch as this will offer you a little faster steering. I find the 1.7 takes too much turning of the steering wheel to alter course.
L H G	posted 04-15-2013 04:24 PM ET (US) I did the exact same conversion you are talking about on my Outrage 18. It's not a difficult job at all. Unlike others, I strongly recommend the SIDE mount cylinder for a clean installation, cylinder mounted between the engines, and that will allow you to use your existing tie bar. Jim wrote up an article on my installation: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/standardTransomBracket.html You will need to use the back mount plate to install the helm
Tom W Clark	posted 04-15-2013 05:02 PM ET (US) I really like Larry's side mount installation. It has a lot to recommend it, especially if you reverse your tilt tube so you can mount the cylinder between the motors. Whaler used 22' hoses when they equipped the Outrage 22s with optional Teleflex hydraulic steering, but that was for the front mount cylinder which needs slack for the cylinder to move back and forth. I suspect you would make use of 20' hoses if you use a side mount cylinder.
L H G	posted 04-15-2013 11:41 PM ET (US) Tom - Even though reversing a tilt tube is not a big job, the steering can be set up the same way by installing the cylinder in the port engine. That way no reversal is needed. The benefit of reversing the tilt tube is to take advantage of additional "pushing out" power of the unbalanced cylinder to more effectively counter the twin non-counter rotating prop torque at the wheel.
standard 17	posted 04-16-2013 12:40 PM ET (US) Ok, so I have my shopping list. If I go with Larry's side mount, reuse the tie bar and Tom's helm recommendation: cylinder side mount HC5370 helm HH5770 hose HO5122 3 quarts hydraulic fluid HA5430 bleed kit HF4202 West Marine $1320 Am I missing anything?
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 12:50 PM ET (US) You will also want the back mount kit, part # HA5418 The current part number of the side mount cylinder is HC5370-3, though the older version would work too if you find one on eBay. HO5122 are 22' hoses. Those will be too long. If you are going to reverse the tilt tube, and I recommend you do so for the reason Larry points out (it is a very clever detail), you would do well to buy a new stainless steel version of that part; in 1983 the OMC tilt tubes were not stainless.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 01:11 PM ET (US) You may want the fill kit, Part # HA5438 You do not need that bleed fitting kit, HF4202
andygere	posted 04-16-2013 01:17 PM ET (US) Standard, West Marine is perhaps the most expensive place to buy these components, and getting expert advice from them...well, it's not going to happen. When I installed hydraulic steering on my Outrage 22 Cuddy, I bought all the components from Boat Store USA. I compared prices on-line, but ordered by phone and got expert service and advice. This company sells a tremendous volume of steering systems, and has great pricing as a result. They were willing to substitute different length hoses into one of their complete kits for me at no additional charge. This is a large brick and mortar operation that also has an on-line presence. All components were in stock and shipped fast, and this company is highly recommended by me. http://www.boatstoreusa.com/categories/hydraulic-mechanical/ seastar-baystar-systems-1.html
andygere	posted 04-16-2013 01:22 PM ET (US) The same parts Standard listed from West Marine at a total of $1320 are $1,045.44 at Boat Store USA.
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 01:23 PM ET (US) And the helm you want is part # HH5271 not HH5770 (which is the Pro version, unless you want the Pro in which case you need to upgrade to the kevlar reinforced Pro Hoses).
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 01:34 PM ET (US) With the standard helm, 20' hoses, the back mount kit, and a fill kit the Boat Store USA total is $997.87 plus about $30 for shipping. Not bad.
standard 17	posted 04-16-2013 01:42 PM ET (US) Yep, have it all in my shopping cart Boat Store USA- thanks Tom and Andy! Tom, how do I bleed the system without the kit? Ted
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 01:57 PM ET (US) Read the installation manual: http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/343322B2.pdf
Tom W Clark	posted 04-16-2013 02:08 PM ET (US) To clarify: You cannot use a Pro helm with the side mount cylinder because it is not balanced.
L H G	posted 04-16-2013 03:00 PM ET (US) If interested, I have a used side mount cylinder in excellent condition, removed from my Outrage 25 because it needs a new seal kit installed (it leaks!). It could also use the newer style bleed "tee" fittings, although the original ones on there work fine (just messy to bleed). The cylinder kit is complete, no corrosion at all, and includes the ram sleeve and pin, and will look brand new when installed. Since I don't have the workbench setup or tools to install a new seal kit (about $43), I was planning on sending it to an authorized Teleflex repair facility. I figure their cost would be around $150 for the seal rebuild job. http://www.surplusunlimited.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD& Store_Code=1&Product_Code=4571&Category_Code=2300-70 $95 to your door. This could save you some money on the overall cost of the project, even more so if you can do the seal replacement yourself.
standard 17	posted 04-17-2013 12:09 PM ET (US) Thanks for the offer LHG, I'm going new. What is involved in reversing the tilt tub. Does not the weight of the engine bear on it? Ted
Tom W Clark	posted 04-17-2013 06:32 PM ET (US) I think reversing the tilt tube is going to be difficult, mostly because I am going to assume after 30 years, your tilt tube is a bit rusty. Yes, the entire weight of the motor is supported by the tilt tube. That does not necessarily mean the motor needs to be removed from the hull, though I suspect that is what will need to happen. Larry used a very clever technique of using a new tilt tube to drive the old tilt tube out. If you can do that, there is no need to support the motor's weight. The problem with that technique is that it will only work if the tilt tube is not rusty and is well lubricated so it can slide out. My experience with my old Mercury's is that tilt tubes are "one" with the clamp brackets. OMC did not use any stainless steel tilt tubes until 1990, so there will be no SS part for your motor shown on any parts diagram. However, I believe there is a stainless steel versions of your tilt tube that was used in 1990 and 1991. In 1992 most (but not all) of the motors went to the "Fast Track" midsection and I think the tilt tube changed along with it so there is not a direct compatibility of those later tilt tubes (but I could be wrong). According to the factory parts diagram for your motor, your tilt tube is # 0321052 (current BRP part number) and the SS version is 0335553 which is an obsolete part number, though there are still some old-stock parts out there. Here is one, at a very good price: http://www.duskyonline.com/0335553.html You should verify the parts compatibility with somebody more knowledgable than me.
L H G	posted 04-17-2013 08:04 PM ET (US) By using a pair of wrenches, it is fairly easy to break loose the nuts that hold the tilt tube in place, and to get the tube rotating. First, get one nut loose on the end you want to slide through, backed off a little. Then put the wrench on the other nut, and see if you can get the whole tube rotating. When that happens, tighten up the other nut again, and break the opposite nut loose, if you can. If you can't, leave it on while you drive out the whole tilt tube. I strongly recommend purchase of a new tube, and maybe a new nut on the end to which the cylinder will screw on. For the ram exit side, you want to buy a Steersman grease lube/o-ring nut anyway. Do not replace the original OMC o-ring seal in the tube. The Steersman now does that function, and allows to inject grease BEHIND the seal. This is the secret of it's success. It can easily be unscrewed and slid off the ram at any time for a new seal, cleaning of the steering ram and re-greasing. With a Steersman, properly used and serviced, you will NEVER have an internally corroded, or frozen tilt tube again. I trim the engine vertically, and put blocking under the skeg. Then you can carefully use the trailer jack to take as much weight as possible off the engine bracketand tilt tube. This makes it's easy to drive out the old tube using the new one (be sure you re-install it in the opposite direction!). Then save the old tube. It can be used for this purpose again if needed.
standard 17	posted 04-18-2013 12:48 PM ET (US) The engines and boat spent the first 28+ years in Minnesota and Wisconsin. When the boat arrived here 2 years ago, the engines were free of any corrosion, since then it's been in the salt a good bit. I'll try to figure out the tube's condition and if it's not bad, I'll go the LHG side-mount route. If it is, I may have to reevaluate. Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know what I find. Ted
jimh	posted 04-18-2013 08:38 PM ET (US) Before you use a side-mount actuator, you have to abandon any thought of an auto-pilot. You cannot use an auto-pilot with any asymmetrical cylinder actuator, and that is what a side-mount actuator will be. This is a substantial drawback to the side-mount hydraulic cylinder method. If you have no plans to ever use an auto-pilot, then this drawback is not particularly a burden. The one oddity of the side-mount asymmetrical cylinder is the difference in number of turns in CW and CCW rotation of the helm. You really don't notice this when steering unless you consciously pay attention to it. The side-mount actuator has the advantage of letting the hydraulic hoses remain stationary. It does stick out a bit and is exposed, unless you mount it in-between the twin engines.
standard 17	posted 04-19-2013 10:15 AM ET (US) As I am rereading everyone's input, I caught LHG's reply that I can mount to the port engine and avoid the tube reversal. I didn't catch that he first time through. It would be a cleaner look, but no advantage on the push out. Am I understanding this correctly? Ted
L H G	posted 04-19-2013 04:40 PM ET (US) Yes, the side mount cylinder can be mounted in the Port engine and steering will still have very little pull, if any. Reversing the tilt tube is not mandatory in any way. That is the way it is usually installed in all single engine spplications anyway, and I have never heard anyone complain about wheel pull, as here: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/images/ETEC250HO/ ETEC250Transom640x475.jpg As you can see, Jimh never bothered to reverse his. The difference in the push-pull force of the cylinder on engine steering is not that great. All tilt tube reversal does is take advantage of the small difference that does exist, for the ultimate in effortless steering. For a premium twin cylinder installation, it obviously becomes necessary, and then the total system becomes perfectly balanced again. Whaler furnished this system on twin engine Whaler Drive models. See here on my Outrage 25 http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2025/MVI_0147.mp4. html?sort=6&o=15#/user/lgoltz/media/Outrage%2025/MVI_0147.mp4. html?sort=6&o=15&_suid=136640289668603325161166217426