posted 05-24-2013 09:18 AM ET (US)            

Advice on how to make repairs is given in:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/repairInstructions.html

posted 05-24-2013 03:21 PM ET (US)            

Bought this boat at govt sale where it began its life. Someone years ago painted over all the desert tan with some cheesy white enamel, which is peeling everywhere. I found some evidence of scrape/dock damage on the port side, so I suspect that's why they painted the whole thing.

Under the peeling is shiny desert an gelcoat. My plan is this:

Put stripper on inside cheesy paint, remove, and see what the gelcoat looks like. If buffable to original or respectable, then leave it original. This is the best option. Fill screw holes...thanks for the recommendations on filler.

If ugly gelcoat underneath on inside, I plan to wetsand entire inside, and prep for new paint. May go with basecoat clearcoat automotive on inside in desert tan. I've painted many cars, pretty savvy side profession...

Plan to add a set of whaler bronze oar locks like a 13 has....

While I like them, I plan to sell the side railings, as it is hard to climb in over the side with those.

Exterior: strip the ugly white down to original gelcoat and evaluate. It's desert tan under the white enamel.

Based on an damage and repairs, I'll determine if entire bottom needs to be redone...if so, it will be done in desert tan gelcoat, unless there is something better. Gelcoat is tough to work but durable.

Thanks again, all, for the replies and feedback.

posted 05-25-2013 11:36 AM ET (US)            

Small gel coat repairs in the non-skid are surprisingly easy. I use a steel scraper on edge (about 1/16" thick) to gouge out the pattern of the non-skid. You can also use a single edge razor blade.

I have filled many, many screw holes in the non-skid and you cannot see the repaired holes unless you are on your hands and knees.

posted 05-25-2013 11:41 AM ET (US)            

quote:

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Razor blade the pattern, that's how Chuck at Whaler did it... Watched him do it many times.

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posted 05-25-2013 02:46 PM ET (US)            

btw Finishmasters Auto and Industrial Paint in Largo Fl. matched my Awlgrip Desert Tan perfectly and has the formula on record. They are a national chain.
rich

posted 05-26-2013 05:57 AM ET (US)            

http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/Cweigleatbellsouthdotnet/library/ ?sort=2&page=2

posted 05-26-2013 09:47 AM ET (US)            

In making repairs with gel coat resin, one should be aware that gel coat resin typically does not cure properly if exposed to air. The resin must be covered to prevent exposure to air. Some resins are formulated with a wax in them which will create the air seal. These resins are often identified as being patch kit resins. Spraying poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA) onto a gel coat repair will also create a seal from the air and allow proper cure.

The concern mentioned that epoxy repairs will tend to be harder than the surrounding hull laminate should also be observed. This is particularly true if the hull laminate is old, as the material tends to become soft with age. But if the epoxy is thickened with a proper filler, it becomes easier to sand and fair.

I tend to favor epoxy and specifically the West System epoxy provided in the small foil packets of their repair kit products. My preference is based on several factors:

--the epoxy has a very long shelf life; until the two-parts of the epoxy are mixed they will tend to remain fresh and usable for a very long time;

--the mixed resin always cures in a predictable time; the foil packages provide the proper ratio of ingredients, and I have never experienced a batch that did not cure;

--the batch created from one foil package is the appropriate quantity for small repairs like we are discussing;

In contrast, using gel coat resin has none of these characteristics, and, indeed quite the opposite:

--the shelf life is limited; polyester resins are actually slowly curing in their own containers; the reaction is just accelerated by the catalyst. The resin will cure in the container if given a few years. I have some old small jars of hard gel coat bought at considerable expense and cured before it could all be used.

--the mixing of the resin and catalyst is hard to manage in any sort of precise ratio in the very small quantities needed for these repairs. It is hard to know the precise amount of catalyst or hardener to add to a small amount of resin; the ratios are usually very high, about 1:100, and that means a very small quantity of catalyst if making a small batch of resin. (Also, the catalyst is methyl-ethyl-ketone-peroxide (MEKP) which can be hazardous, particularly to your eyes. Be careful with it.)