MONTAUK 17: Moving Battery to Center Console From Stern

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Author Topic:   MONTAUK 17: Moving Battery to Center Console From Stern

Rockrock posted 06-03-2013 10:23 AM ET (US)
I want to move [two] batteries to the center [console] from the stern to free some space on a 1989 Boston Whaler Montauk 17 with a trolling motor on the transom. I have two Group-27 batteries, one for starting and one for trolling. I plan on cutting slots for the batteries in the [console deck] to preserve storage, and provide the required strength for the weight of the batteries. I am not an electrician by any means. However, I don't believe doing DC should be to difficult. Any advice on what I'm facing ahead of time, would be greatly appreciate!
There is also a PERKO ON-OFF battery selector switch installed on the battery boxes. I'll probably leave it attached there when I move them. There is (I believe) a bus installed under a cover near the transom, with wires from the rigging channel going in and then out to the batteries. I haven't removed the cover yet to investigate, but I may need to move it also to the center council? Thanks for any advice of what I am facing ahead of time!
Rockrock
contender posted 06-03-2013 05:32 PM ET (US)
Do not splice the old wires, you need to spend the coin for new ones, I also advise going up a couple of sizes in dia. large size wire has less resistance for the flow of electric current, thus saves your starter from pulling too much electric and overheating. I would solder all the ends and cover them with heat shrink and an electrical protection. Moving your batteries to the console is a great idea, gets them out of the way, more room in the boat, and its a lot cleaner look. Just be able to get to them to check on them (water and connections). I personally like the battery switch by Hella, its smaller, it is sealed better, and carries more juice/load. Also it requires a plastic key to (turn on) engages the batteries. I would have to see the electrical junction box you are talking about to know if is needed or not (I do not have one on my whaler) Its not a big deal to do this but do not be surprise of the cost of wire now, and spend the money on good marine wire. You will still need to run two wires back to your trolling motor as well (this is probably why you have a junction box) to power it...good luck
Rockrock posted 06-03-2013 08:25 PM ET (US)
Thanks Contender! The junction box was already there. May have been put there when the previous owner installed a bilge pump in the rigging channel? I may add a pic of it when I am back off the road? again, your advice is appreciated.
Rockrock
jimh posted 06-03-2013 11:24 PM ET (US)
For advice on sizing the electrical conductors when extending power distribution, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. You may find this article of interest:
Wire Conductor Size for Power Distribution
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003384.html
Russ 13 posted 06-04-2013 01:18 AM ET (US)
I have used Gel-Cell batteries from Napa (Made by Excide)that are much less costly than some other brands.
With GREAT results, going on 6 years and no problems, I use a low amp charger, set up for gel-cell batteries, to keep them charged up.
No fumes, no water needed, excellent discharge rate & vibration proof, well worth the added cost over lead acid batteries.
Inside the console is a GREAT place for them, it really opens up the back deck area, and moves some weight forward.
jimh posted 06-04-2013 09:43 AM ET (US)
I strongly disagree with the suggestion to use gelled electrolyte batteries. Almost no one uses them, particularly in boating applications where they will be recharged by the outboard engine. Also, gelled electrolyte batteries are lead-acid batteries. It is unlikely there is a great savings in weight available in their design. AGM batteries are more popular than gelled electrolyte batteries by a ratio of 100:1, according to one large supplier.
jimh posted 06-04-2013 09:51 AM ET (US)
If you need advice on electrical wiring, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. The SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL discussion has many prior threads and discussions about the electrical conductor size needed when a battery is moved away from its load. In particular, you should read
Moving Batteries
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003374.html
which will give you a better understanding of the extreme importance of the resistance of the electrical power distribution required when extending circuit.
jharrell posted 06-08-2013 10:42 PM ET (US)
I moved mine to the center console and added an ACR and second house battery. I highly recommend this setup, not only is weight distribution better but the rear deck is much less cluttered without losing much usable console space along with gaining battery redundancy.
I used a Blue Sea two post terminal to splice connection as my old engine would not easily accept the larger #2 wire and from multiple accounts whaler did this from the factory in later models.
pcrussell50 posted 06-09-2013 05:07 PM ET (US)
+1 J's setup. Got two under the console, combiner relay, and Perko selector, along with a 12 gallon tank. Lovin' me some all deck space all the time.
There's almost no console space left, so there is a "second floor" added to the stock console, with tons of dry storage.
--Peter
Rockrock posted 06-13-2013 02:27 PM ET (US)
Thanks all for the excellent responses! It is very helpful!
I will be starting the job in the next couple of weeks.
Rockrock posted 06-13-2013 02:34 PM ET (US)
Hey pcrussell50, for some reason, I can't view your photo's.
Could you try and list them again, if you have time?
Thanks
rogerarnal posted 06-16-2013 09:25 AM ET (US)
I too can't view your photo.
pcrussell50 posted 06-16-2013 06:28 PM ET (US)
[Deleted dead links to some no-longer-working photo hosting sites--jimh]
-Peter
jimh posted 06-17-2013 08:37 AM ET (US)
Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL to discuss electrical systems. Thanks.

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Author	Topic: MONTAUK 17: Moving Battery to Center Console From Stern
Rockrock	posted 06-03-2013 10:23 AM ET (US) I want to move [two] batteries to the center [console] from the stern to free some space on a 1989 Boston Whaler Montauk 17 with a trolling motor on the transom. I have two Group-27 batteries, one for starting and one for trolling. I plan on cutting slots for the batteries in the [console deck] to preserve storage, and provide the required strength for the weight of the batteries. I am not an electrician by any means. However, I don't believe doing DC should be to difficult. Any advice on what I'm facing ahead of time, would be greatly appreciate! There is also a PERKO ON-OFF battery selector switch installed on the battery boxes. I'll probably leave it attached there when I move them. There is (I believe) a bus installed under a cover near the transom, with wires from the rigging channel going in and then out to the batteries. I haven't removed the cover yet to investigate, but I may need to move it also to the center council? Thanks for any advice of what I am facing ahead of time! Rockrock
contender	posted 06-03-2013 05:32 PM ET (US) Do not splice the old wires, you need to spend the coin for new ones, I also advise going up a couple of sizes in dia. large size wire has less resistance for the flow of electric current, thus saves your starter from pulling too much electric and overheating. I would solder all the ends and cover them with heat shrink and an electrical protection. Moving your batteries to the console is a great idea, gets them out of the way, more room in the boat, and its a lot cleaner look. Just be able to get to them to check on them (water and connections). I personally like the battery switch by Hella, its smaller, it is sealed better, and carries more juice/load. Also it requires a plastic key to (turn on) engages the batteries. I would have to see the electrical junction box you are talking about to know if is needed or not (I do not have one on my whaler) Its not a big deal to do this but do not be surprise of the cost of wire now, and spend the money on good marine wire. You will still need to run two wires back to your trolling motor as well (this is probably why you have a junction box) to power it...good luck
Rockrock	posted 06-03-2013 08:25 PM ET (US) Thanks Contender! The junction box was already there. May have been put there when the previous owner installed a bilge pump in the rigging channel? I may add a pic of it when I am back off the road? again, your advice is appreciated. Rockrock
jimh	posted 06-03-2013 11:24 PM ET (US) For advice on sizing the electrical conductors when extending power distribution, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. You may find this article of interest: Wire Conductor Size for Power Distribution http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003384.html
Russ 13	posted 06-04-2013 01:18 AM ET (US) I have used Gel-Cell batteries from Napa (Made by Excide)that are much less costly than some other brands. With GREAT results, going on 6 years and no problems, I use a low amp charger, set up for gel-cell batteries, to keep them charged up. No fumes, no water needed, excellent discharge rate & vibration proof, well worth the added cost over lead acid batteries. Inside the console is a GREAT place for them, it really opens up the back deck area, and moves some weight forward.
jimh	posted 06-04-2013 09:43 AM ET (US) I strongly disagree with the suggestion to use gelled electrolyte batteries. Almost no one uses them, particularly in boating applications where they will be recharged by the outboard engine. Also, gelled electrolyte batteries are lead-acid batteries. It is unlikely there is a great savings in weight available in their design. AGM batteries are more popular than gelled electrolyte batteries by a ratio of 100:1, according to one large supplier.
jimh	posted 06-04-2013 09:51 AM ET (US) If you need advice on electrical wiring, please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL. The SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL discussion has many prior threads and discussions about the electrical conductor size needed when a battery is moved away from its load. In particular, you should read Moving Batteries http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003374.html which will give you a better understanding of the extreme importance of the resistance of the electrical power distribution required when extending circuit.
jharrell	posted 06-08-2013 10:42 PM ET (US) I moved mine to the center console and added an ACR and second house battery. I highly recommend this setup, not only is weight distribution better but the rear deck is much less cluttered without losing much usable console space along with gaining battery redundancy. I used a Blue Sea two post terminal to splice connection as my old engine would not easily accept the larger #2 wire and from multiple accounts whaler did this from the factory in later models.
pcrussell50	posted 06-09-2013 05:07 PM ET (US) +1 J's setup. Got two under the console, combiner relay, and Perko selector, along with a 12 gallon tank. Lovin' me some all deck space all the time. There's almost no console space left, so there is a "second floor" added to the stock console, with tons of dry storage. --Peter
Rockrock	posted 06-13-2013 02:27 PM ET (US) Thanks all for the excellent responses! It is very helpful! I will be starting the job in the next couple of weeks.
Rockrock	posted 06-13-2013 02:34 PM ET (US) Hey pcrussell50, for some reason, I can't view your photo's. Could you try and list them again, if you have time? Thanks
rogerarnal	posted 06-16-2013 09:25 AM ET (US) I too can't view your photo.
pcrussell50	posted 06-16-2013 06:28 PM ET (US) [Deleted dead links to some no-longer-working photo hosting sites--jimh] -Peter
jimh	posted 06-17-2013 08:37 AM ET (US) Please use SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL to discuss electrical systems. Thanks.