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Author Topic:   Turning Point props
RFK posted 04-27-2001 07:12 PM ET (US)   Profile for RFK   Send Email to RFK  
The dealer is recommending Turning Point props for the new Yamaha I'm purchasing. The prop comes in two parts; the core that fits over the motor's shaft, then the blades. Allows you to change props easily and cheap.

I am getting a stainless steel core, then an aluminum prop for the local river and a stainless steel prop for lakes.

I will let you know how it works out. You can see them at their web site, Turning Point Props.

lhg posted 04-28-2001 02:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
This is the way Mercury has been making their props for about 2 years now, and seems like a good idea.

I have seen these Turning Point props in the new Shoreway Marine catalog, about $90 complete for a mid sized gearcase, and $110 for a large one.
Price seems very reasonable, and they are indicated as "performance aluminium" props with higher rake design.

I would be interested in anybody's experience with them. For the price, it seems it worth getting one for a test/spare.

Eric posted 04-28-2001 04:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
These are in the Boaters World catalogs, and I looked at one on display in their store here. The only comparison I have is the factory aluminum prop on my Johnson 90. The display prop had much less cup, which I don't want to give up. I don't know of anyone that's tried one yet.
I was wondering if the same hub could be used for both stainless and aluminum props. Is your dealer selling you one hub for both props?
B Bear posted 04-28-2001 09:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for B Bear  Send Email to B Bear     
Here is a web site that sells Turning Point propellers in aluminium and in stainless, it also shows and explians their hub system.
lhg posted 05-06-2001 06:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I think I can partly answer my own question. I had a chance to look at one of these lately, and it looks like under-designed junk to me. Now I now why they're so cheap! Didn't look heavy duty enough to be reliable and handle heavy prop load stress. A quality propeller is money well spent if you're going anywhere off shore.
RFK posted 05-08-2001 07:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     

Help me understand your criticism. This is the first SS prop I've owned, since a lot of my boating is on rivers that offer surprises. As you know, it is a lot cheaper to rebuild an aluminum prop over a SS.

You feel the Turning Point product is a much lighter cast than Mercury or Michigan? What specifically should I look for in poor performance from this prop?

I will tell you I had to talk with the dealer about prop size already. With a 131/4x17 I can only get 4700rpm, so I going to try a 133/4X15.

lhg posted 05-08-2001 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Maybe someone else familiar with props could take a look at these units, and add something here. But the hub design looks inferior and the way the prop housing sits on the hub looks like a pretty bad detail, easy to shear, or even give out.

As you say, the castings are way to light if you ask me. OEM props are much more substantial. Haven't seen the SS versions of Turning Point, just the Aluminum. These are a bottom of the line accessory, being marketed to Dealers as a cost saver, or as a spare. You have spent good money for a high quality engine. I would recommend a high quality prop also

Compare to equivalent Yamaha props, both aluminum and SS. Why is a Yamaha dealer not giving you a Yamaha prop? I am convinced, like tires, you get what you pay for in a propeller.

If you want to have this interchangeable hub idea, go to a Merc Dealer and check out Mercury's props, which have a hub for Yamaha available. All interchangeable hubs for 70HP and up. Take a look at the design and construction. You'll see the difference.

With a boat that should do about 42 mph, I would suggest an SS prop, especially if you're running in water subject to hitting flotsam. They are MUCH more resistant to damage, and much more likely to get you home. Collisions that will damage an aluminum prop won't even show on a SS model.

I once hit a floating log (in reality a floating telephone pole!) at 25mph near Nanaimo BC and although my SS prop had a slight bend in a blade, I was able to straighten it out at the nearest dock with a pliers. An aluminum prop would have been totaled in this particular collision. Mercury says their SS props are 5 times as resistant to serious damage as an aluminum.

RFK posted 05-08-2001 08:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     
I appreciate your comments. I'll have an interesting conversation with the dealer.
Since I have to return what I have, it gives me an opportunity to reopen the debate.

Again, thank you.

Dick K.

RFK posted 05-11-2001 06:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for RFK  Send Email to RFK     

I had my conversation with the dealer and I decided to give Turning Point a try. He says has a friend who manufacturers Sylvan boats. Claims the guy ssys he puts TP's on the motors, since he sees tham as better than OEM equipment.

We will see.



Eric posted 05-12-2001 03:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
Please post your opinion on the prop after you've run it for a while.
andygere posted 05-24-2001 11:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I took a look at the Turning Point aluminum and decided to give it a try. I looked at it side by side with a Michigan Wheel replacement, and the castings seem to be just about as beefy. In terms of the spline arrangement between the hub and the blades, it looks like the spline itself will not carry heavy shear forces. This is because the hub is tapered, and if the prop nut is torqued to spec, the shear forces will be distributed evenly around the circumference of the hub. In effect, the friction between the hub and the inside of the blade housing does all the work (had to dust off a little civil engineering structural analysis theory...). Of course, that's just theory so I am taking a slight gamble that it will work. I did look into the warranty, and the hub and blade housing are covered for one year, excepting impact damage. I'll run it hard, try not to hit anything, and report back on the performance. I felt my 21-year old outboard did not warrant the investment in a high-end prop, and I always have the kicker to get me home. One interesting note: Turning point will allow you to exchange a blade housing for one of another pitch for a $20 s/h fee, providing the blade is not damaged. Eric, any report on your TP prop yet?
Eric posted 05-25-2001 07:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for Eric  Send Email to Eric     
I ended up buying a slightly used OMC Viper prop. The owner had blown his Fitch after 6 months. Tried it yesterday; can't wait to get a GPS and see how fast this thing runs.
lhg posted 05-25-2001 09:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Eric - you're unwittingly giving away one of OMC's/Bombardier's best kept deep, dark secrets. I've heard of many blown 90/115HP Fichts, but the Company/Dealers don't seem to own up to it very readily, and have let the 200/225's take most of the heat (literally). They're still trying to unload these engines, from leftover OMC inventories, on the public. Bombardier Engineering is burning the midnight oil trying to perfect Ficht engineering so they can begin to put out trouble free engines. It will be interesting to see which HP ranges come out first.
andygere posted 10-09-2001 11:36 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I've been running a Turning Point aluminum prop on my 79 Johnson/Montauk for a few months and here are my observations. Performance is the same as the generic aluminum it replaced (before it was severely dinged). No problems with the hub design or signs of shear or fatigue failure. I greased the hub spline and prop shaft spline before installation, and just pulled it and did the same again. Here is the only weakness I have seen: Lousy paint job. It looked great out of the box, but after just 3 months, the paint is flaking off the blades. I run in deep water, so it hasn't been sandblasted, but there is a lot of kelp in the water and sometimes it's impossible to avoid running through it. My overall grade: B-. For the money, it's doing it's job and performs fine. Would I buy another one? Probably not. Would I spec one for a brand new outboard? No. Will it outlast my old '79? Probably.

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