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Author Topic:   Trolling motor for a Montauk

Tartansailor posted 06-28-2001 04:24 AM ET (US)
What 4 stroke hp would be enough to push the boat thru 2 ft. seas at trolling speed ~6mph?
Bigshot posted 06-28-2001 11:18 AM ET (US)
5hp should be plenty.
lhg posted 06-28-2001 06:28 PM ET (US)
I think 6-8HP? I used a 7 1/2 and it worked fine. Be sure you purchase a 20" shaft length. Set the engine directly on the high part of the transom. Don't worry if it angles in a little. Lock it in the straight ahead postition, and use the maine engine as a rudder. This is by far your simplest installation.
Dick posted 06-28-2001 09:06 PM ET (US)
I also recommend a Tempo 655TTP rubber transom pad. It not only gives you a better non slip clamping surface, but it prevents the clamp screws from screwing up the gel coat.
Tartansailor posted 06-28-2001 09:27 PM ET (US)
Sincere thanks for the recomendations, especially the shaft length, and transom pad.
Dick
andygere posted 06-29-2001 11:22 AM ET (US)
My Montauk manual says to clamp the motor directly to the transom to get a good bite on the fiberglass (ouch). Makes sense, but I understand the desire to protect the gelcoat. In either case, make a "keeper" out of some stainless cable short enough to keep the powerhead above the water if it does vibrate loose. I have a 15 hp kicker on mine (more than enough for trolling), and my only complaint is that the shift lever is hard to reach. A remote throttle/shifter (dual Morse control) would be really nice.
Bigshot posted 06-29-2001 03:12 PM ET (US)
15 is overkill. Use what you have laying around or can get cheap. If I was going to buy a NEW motor, especially 4 stroke, I would probably get a 6 but a 5 would do. I had a 6hp(1995) 2 stroke on one and it would scoot pretty good with the high thrust sailboat prop. Unless you are trying to plane, a small kicker propped right will work wonders and keep the weight down. That 15 aint light, huh Andy?
andygere posted 06-29-2001 04:18 PM ET (US)
Actually, the weight of the 15 is not bad. I suspect the previous owner installed it because it's the same weight at the 9.9 hp. For just trolling, it's more power than needed. The upside is that if I have trouble with the main motor, the 15 hp will get me home much faster than a 5 hp would. It still weighs a lot less than most 8-10 hp 4 strokes, and since it uses mixed oil/fuel like the main motor, I can share the same fuel system.
lhg posted 06-29-2001 06:37 PM ET (US)
Bolts should also be used through the lower mounting holes, to be sure your engine is firmly attached to the hull. It gets bounced around quite a bit while planing. This and the other rcommendations I mentioned above, incidentally, are BW's long standing recommendations for a trolling motor on a 16/17 hull.
Dick posted 06-29-2001 09:34 PM ET (US)
I feel that Boston Whaler recomendations, are just that, and if there is a better way forget the recomendations.
The engine mounting info in the owners manual applies to the primary engine, it says nothing about a kicker. The Tempo rubber pad will give superior gripping over clamping directly to the fiberglass. It's just like a jack plate gives superior performance, but goes against the guidelines in the manual.
Boston Whaler makes the finest boat on the water, but having been a dealer, I don't think they have all the right answers when it comes to rigging and accessory installation. It's your boat, rig it the way you want it so you are comfortable with it.
Dick
alvispollard posted 07-01-2001 11:05 PM ET (US)
I have the Yamaha T8 on my montauk. It is a great kicker motor and pushes the boat, with 1400 lbs, 8 mph in 2' waves. I trolled 14 hrs on Lake Erie for 2 days and only used 2.5 gallons of gas. I can go offshore on good days 30 miles and troll with kicker and never look at 28 Tempo tank. Great combo.
Mort posted 07-07-2001 09:33 PM ET (US)
I use a 5hp. Johnson long shaft bolted directly to the high part of the transom. I am suprised at how fast that motor will move the boat along. I use the boat in the waters of Casco Bay, Maine and there are days when the chop and current can be pretty strong. That motor does just fine for trolling and getting you in if the main engine fails. I also lock it straight ahead and use the main engine as a rudder.
Good system
Tom W Clark posted 07-08-2001 11:52 AM ET (US)
6 hp will do quite nicely. Should push a Montauk to 6 or 7 knots if necessary.
I vote for 20" shaft length clamped directly to the transom, no pads as per Whaler's recommendation. (Dick, perhaps the new Whaler's owners manual omits this bit of advice) Yes it will chew into the gel coat on both sides of the transom but so what? The kicker covers it anyway.
If you want to use transom pads that's ok. It's a personal choice but I would not, Whaler recommends against it (recommended?) and I would (and did) drill holes for the the optional, through-transom bolts that will insure that the motor does not leave the transom in rough water. (At least not with the mounting bracket intact) Also eliminates the need for a safety chain.
As to steering, my strong preference is to tie the big motor and the kicker together for steering. At little more work but far more effective. Most people use the E-Z Steer which is big, ugly and expensive, but readily available. I prefer the type which is made of stainless allthrerad made by ? (Dick, help me out here) Much cleaner. Can be disconnected from the boat while in the water. Works under any and all conditions.
Dick posted 07-08-2001 08:36 PM ET (US)
Tom
The steering attachment you are thinking of is made by Golden Eye.
Stainless steel part #92600 $59.00 list.
Plated steel part #92400 $29.00 list.
E-Z Steer list $200.00.
We happen to be distributors for both products and the Golden Eye makes a very nice clean installation.
Dick

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Author	Topic: Trolling motor for a Montauk
Tartansailor	posted 06-28-2001 04:24 AM ET (US) What 4 stroke hp would be enough to push the boat thru 2 ft. seas at trolling speed ~6mph?
Bigshot	posted 06-28-2001 11:18 AM ET (US) 5hp should be plenty.
lhg	posted 06-28-2001 06:28 PM ET (US) I think 6-8HP? I used a 7 1/2 and it worked fine. Be sure you purchase a 20" shaft length. Set the engine directly on the high part of the transom. Don't worry if it angles in a little. Lock it in the straight ahead postition, and use the maine engine as a rudder. This is by far your simplest installation.
Dick	posted 06-28-2001 09:06 PM ET (US) I also recommend a Tempo 655TTP rubber transom pad. It not only gives you a better non slip clamping surface, but it prevents the clamp screws from screwing up the gel coat.
Tartansailor	posted 06-28-2001 09:27 PM ET (US) Sincere thanks for the recomendations, especially the shaft length, and transom pad. Dick
andygere	posted 06-29-2001 11:22 AM ET (US) My Montauk manual says to clamp the motor directly to the transom to get a good bite on the fiberglass (ouch). Makes sense, but I understand the desire to protect the gelcoat. In either case, make a "keeper" out of some stainless cable short enough to keep the powerhead above the water if it does vibrate loose. I have a 15 hp kicker on mine (more than enough for trolling), and my only complaint is that the shift lever is hard to reach. A remote throttle/shifter (dual Morse control) would be really nice.
Bigshot	posted 06-29-2001 03:12 PM ET (US) 15 is overkill. Use what you have laying around or can get cheap. If I was going to buy a NEW motor, especially 4 stroke, I would probably get a 6 but a 5 would do. I had a 6hp(1995) 2 stroke on one and it would scoot pretty good with the high thrust sailboat prop. Unless you are trying to plane, a small kicker propped right will work wonders and keep the weight down. That 15 aint light, huh Andy?
andygere	posted 06-29-2001 04:18 PM ET (US) Actually, the weight of the 15 is not bad. I suspect the previous owner installed it because it's the same weight at the 9.9 hp. For just trolling, it's more power than needed. The upside is that if I have trouble with the main motor, the 15 hp will get me home much faster than a 5 hp would. It still weighs a lot less than most 8-10 hp 4 strokes, and since it uses mixed oil/fuel like the main motor, I can share the same fuel system.
lhg	posted 06-29-2001 06:37 PM ET (US) Bolts should also be used through the lower mounting holes, to be sure your engine is firmly attached to the hull. It gets bounced around quite a bit while planing. This and the other rcommendations I mentioned above, incidentally, are BW's long standing recommendations for a trolling motor on a 16/17 hull.
Dick	posted 06-29-2001 09:34 PM ET (US) I feel that Boston Whaler recomendations, are just that, and if there is a better way forget the recomendations. The engine mounting info in the owners manual applies to the primary engine, it says nothing about a kicker. The Tempo rubber pad will give superior gripping over clamping directly to the fiberglass. It's just like a jack plate gives superior performance, but goes against the guidelines in the manual. Boston Whaler makes the finest boat on the water, but having been a dealer, I don't think they have all the right answers when it comes to rigging and accessory installation. It's your boat, rig it the way you want it so you are comfortable with it. Dick
alvispollard	posted 07-01-2001 11:05 PM ET (US) I have the Yamaha T8 on my montauk. It is a great kicker motor and pushes the boat, with 1400 lbs, 8 mph in 2' waves. I trolled 14 hrs on Lake Erie for 2 days and only used 2.5 gallons of gas. I can go offshore on good days 30 miles and troll with kicker and never look at 28 Tempo tank. Great combo.
Mort	posted 07-07-2001 09:33 PM ET (US) I use a 5hp. Johnson long shaft bolted directly to the high part of the transom. I am suprised at how fast that motor will move the boat along. I use the boat in the waters of Casco Bay, Maine and there are days when the chop and current can be pretty strong. That motor does just fine for trolling and getting you in if the main engine fails. I also lock it straight ahead and use the main engine as a rudder. Good system
Tom W Clark	posted 07-08-2001 11:52 AM ET (US) 6 hp will do quite nicely. Should push a Montauk to 6 or 7 knots if necessary. I vote for 20" shaft length clamped directly to the transom, no pads as per Whaler's recommendation. (Dick, perhaps the new Whaler's owners manual omits this bit of advice) Yes it will chew into the gel coat on both sides of the transom but so what? The kicker covers it anyway. If you want to use transom pads that's ok. It's a personal choice but I would not, Whaler recommends against it (recommended?) and I would (and did) drill holes for the the optional, through-transom bolts that will insure that the motor does not leave the transom in rough water. (At least not with the mounting bracket intact) Also eliminates the need for a safety chain. As to steering, my strong preference is to tie the big motor and the kicker together for steering. At little more work but far more effective. Most people use the E-Z Steer which is big, ugly and expensive, but readily available. I prefer the type which is made of stainless allthrerad made by ? (Dick, help me out here) Much cleaner. Can be disconnected from the boat while in the water. Works under any and all conditions.
Dick	posted 07-08-2001 08:36 PM ET (US) Tom The steering attachment you are thinking of is made by Golden Eye. Stainless steel part #92600 $59.00 list. Plated steel part #92400 $29.00 list. E-Z Steer list $200.00. We happen to be distributors for both products and the Golden Eye makes a very nice clean installation. Dick