Condensation in Gas Tank - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
  Condensation in Gas Tank

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Condensation in Gas Tank

Ray posted 08-16-2001 10:32 PM ET (US)
I store my 25 Revenge on a float-on trailer which has no keel rollers. I do not plan to add keel rollers as the long bunks seem to support ok for winter storage. I only trailer 50 miles to the barn once a year. Here's my question. I prefer not to add an additional 1000 pounds by filling the gas tank because of additional stress on the boat bottom. This of course puts more water in the gas tank. It is a rock and a hard place type of situation. What are the opinions out there? Ray
lhg posted 08-17-2001 01:49 PM ET (US)
Pour in the proper amount of MDR "Waterzorb" (depending on fuel in the tank) then literally run the boat out of gas to empty the tank. Carry an auxiliary six gallon tank to plug in when the engine dies. This will still leave about 4 unuseable gallons in the tank, but which will still have the waterzorb in it.
You will still get condensation on the inside surfaces of the empty & cold tank, especially after days of deep cold followed by a warm humid condition. But with out the alcohol laden gas to creat phase separation, there should not be an internal corrosion problem.
In the spring, when you fill it up, use a full dose of the Waterszorb again, and after the first tank is fully used, change your water separating fuel filter. You should be fine. You are correct in not overloading the hull on a bunk trailer. If the boat develops wavy sides, that is the first sign of long term improper hull support.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Condensation in Gas Tank
Ray	posted 08-16-2001 10:32 PM ET (US) I store my 25 Revenge on a float-on trailer which has no keel rollers. I do not plan to add keel rollers as the long bunks seem to support ok for winter storage. I only trailer 50 miles to the barn once a year. Here's my question. I prefer not to add an additional 1000 pounds by filling the gas tank because of additional stress on the boat bottom. This of course puts more water in the gas tank. It is a rock and a hard place type of situation. What are the opinions out there? Ray
lhg	posted 08-17-2001 01:49 PM ET (US) Pour in the proper amount of MDR "Waterzorb" (depending on fuel in the tank) then literally run the boat out of gas to empty the tank. Carry an auxiliary six gallon tank to plug in when the engine dies. This will still leave about 4 unuseable gallons in the tank, but which will still have the waterzorb in it. You will still get condensation on the inside surfaces of the empty & cold tank, especially after days of deep cold followed by a warm humid condition. But with out the alcohol laden gas to creat phase separation, there should not be an internal corrosion problem. In the spring, when you fill it up, use a full dose of the Waterszorb again, and after the first tank is fully used, change your water separating fuel filter. You should be fine. You are correct in not overloading the hull on a bunk trailer. If the boat develops wavy sides, that is the first sign of long term improper hull support.