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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
15" transom cocern!
|Author||Topic: 15" transom cocern!|
posted 04-11-2002 09:42 AM ET (US)
I now know why the 1969 13' Sport I recently purchased had the 20" motor on it.
It was to keep from drilling holes in the bottom of the transom. This is also apparent on my 1972 13' Sport. 4 bolt holes fit in the top part of the transom with a 20" motor, they don't with a 15" motor.
The old motors that bolted on over the transom were of no concern.
In Cetacea 56, I see Carl used lag bolts in the bottom of the transom.
In talking to Whaler, they recomend through bolts with an inspection plate placed over the inner wall of the inside motor well.
I don't like the idea of either. Am I over concerned? Has anyone else drilled through the "hidden" bottom of their transoms?
posted 04-11-2002 01:23 PM ET (US)
Jay what the hell are you talking about? You sold the 69 right? You kept the 72 which has a 20" transom, right? What engine are you mounting? The Yamaha 4 stroke, right? So what is the problem?
posted 04-11-2002 02:01 PM ET (US)
The 1969 is gone.
The 1972 HAS A 15" transom. It had a 20" motor on it that had a built up transom.
The Yammi is a 15" that has a bolt pattern that doesn't match up to the way the 20" was.
In order to mount the Yammi properly, it looks like I'll have to run bolts through the bottom unexposed (to the inside) part of the transom. Carl used lag bolts to do this on Cetacea 56.
Whaler says cut out foremost section of front motor well, remove foam until you hit the wood of the transom (about 10"), mount bolts through and cover front of motor well with inspection plate.
I hope this clears it up better.
posted 04-11-2002 02:44 PM ET (US)
I thought all 72's were 20" with a smirk. Is the 72 the newer style transom but only 15"? Anotherwords no bulkhead. they went to the 20" in 73 along with tan?
If you raise the engine 1" can you get a bolt into the well area? reason being on my 15 & 17 If I lay it on the transom, I owuld have to lag bolt it. If I raise it up some it clears and I just cut the washer into a moon.
i would jackplate that thing before I cut apart the well. If no dice on plate or raising it slightly, lag bolt it. With a small engine she'll be fine. Remember the stress is pushing the engine down and in on your transom so the bolts will be "pushed" in while running.
posted 04-11-2002 02:55 PM ET (US)
Nick, how high can my cavitation plate be above the bottom of my transom? You may get the old 1990 40 erude for free after all.
posted 04-11-2002 03:26 PM ET (US)
As high as you can go without it blowing out. Not being a wiseass....it's true. I had my 70 on my 15" about 3 inches off my transom, no jackplate. It picked me up about 2mph and handled fine. I always thought you dropped them on the transom and bolted them on. True when using thumbscrews. When I got my new Hydra-Sport I asked the mech why it was 1.5" off the transom and he told me. When I get that boat one day soon(still in NJ) I am gonna put a plate on it and go higher. Do whatever you have to do not to use lags and do NOT put in an access plate in your well.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 04-12-2002 01:08 AM ET (US)
What's the serial number on your boat? If it's before 2A7800 then it's a 1971 model but if it's later than 2A7801 it's a 1972 model and should have a 20" transom.
posted 04-12-2002 08:39 AM ET (US)
Tom, I don't have the serial # here at work. But I know the boat is a 1972 (I checked it before). I see in the reference section, it states that the 1972 was smirked and transom changed to 20". Believe me, I can assure you it has a 15" transom, smirk, and blue interior. Regards, Jay
posted 04-12-2002 09:08 AM ET (US)
This may be a case of confusion about "model year" versus "production year."
It may be that they began to make 20-inch transom 13-footers in 1972, but they are designated "1973" models.
There appears to be a short period (of about a year) when the newer style hull was molded with the 15-inch transom. That sounds like the boat that JFM has now.
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