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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Questions about 13.4 Whaler
|Author||Topic: Questions about 13.4 Whaler|
posted 05-19-2002 11:24 PM ET (US)
I am new to this forum. I owned a 13.4 B.W. many years ago, and have now finally found a 1986 in below average condition. It has set out in the weather for a few years, has some stress cracks on the right side of the hull, needs paint. Is it advisable to repaint white or sand as original to retain value? What is the best paint to use? I drilled three 1/4 holes below the transem, one hole each on the two ribs and one in the center. I had the bow of the boat as high as possible. No water came out. I know the foam will retain water. Am I safe to assume I do not have a waterlog problem? Is this the right approach? If not, what should I do? I don't think I have water, but before I repaint and put in water, I want to be sure. Another question: I want to purchase a trolling motor, either foot or hand and need to know what size thrust and the best way to mount either kind. This boat will only be used for river fishing with average weight. Any answer would be greatly appreciated.---THANKS---Giles---
posted 05-20-2002 01:31 PM ET (US)
I have just finished having painted a very beat up 1976 13’ sport. I chose Interlux‘s two-part polyurethane paint. I had it sprayed by a local boat general fix it shop. The few defects are from the application. I didn’t pay for a perfect job and I got what I paid for. But it turned out beautiful. The finish is very hard and very bright. I had the interior dulled to a semi-gloss. It looks almost like a factory new boat.
That being said, I think that I would now go with a 1 part polyurethane paint. The only problem with the 2 part paints is how do you touch up the inevitable dings and scratches. With the two-part paint you have to mix exact ratio of the 2 parts and use them within the pot life (a few hours). This makes mixing a small patch difficult and expensive. A one-part paint would be much easier for touch ups. The one part polyurethane paints are easier to apply and are not as big of a health risk. I didn’t want to paint my boat myself because of two reasons. The first is I am a terrible painter and second the safety warnings for the two-part paints. The two-part paint is some real nasty stuff. It is a superior product but expensive and a real health hazard if you spray it. The one part polyurethane will look almost as good, will wear almost as well but is cheaper and easier to deal with. It should also be easier to touch up.
Both the two-part and one-part Polyurethane paint is sold for above the waterline use. If you are going to trailer your boat and not have it in the water for more than 2-3 days at a time you should not have a problem using either one. If you leave the boat in the water for a week or more you may get blisters.
I would recommend Interlux’s Brightside one part polyurethane paint.
posted 05-22-2002 10:52 AM ET (US)
dburton: THANKS for the information. At least I got one of my five questions answered. I'll try another forum. I checked out the web page you entered and got more information. THANKS AGAIN----Giles---
posted 05-28-2002 10:19 AM ET (US)
Your "questions" are poorly presented if you are truly seeking answers.
It would have been better, and surely more successful, if you seperated subjects into paragraphs rather than jamming them into one.
Most of us will not attempt to answer a question unless we think we have something to offer, and many of us will not attempt to answer a confusing question.
Your 5 questions in one paragraph are hard to read and overwhelming to the mind trying to form useful suggestions.
Try your questions again, one at a time, and presented in an easy to read format.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 05-28-2002 04:21 PM ET (US)
Q1: I would advise you to do neither. Instead, repaint it to match the original color (desert tan?).
Q2: There has been much debate on this subject in the past. To read about it, click in the drop-down window that says "Show Topics From Last 10 Days" and change it to "Show Topics From Last 2 Years." Then search for words like "paint" and "Gelcoat" and "gel coat," etc. Search by pressing Control-F (or Command-F on a Macintosh).
I have never painted my Whaler so I do not feel qualified to offer an opinion. I do know that there are certain variables to consider, such as do you have experience spraying automotive paint? Do you care if you can see brush marks? How much time and money do you want to spend on the project? Do you want to be able to touch up the paint job later or would you feel comfortable spraying a clear coat on top of the first coat?
Q3: If you have drilled holes in your boat and have positioned the boat in such a way that gravity would make the water drip out of the holes, but no water has dripped out, then I believe that you can assume that the hull does not have water in it. However, if you really wanted to know if all those spider cracks were water tight, put the plugs in, fill the boat with water, wait a week, and see if water comes out the holes that you drilled in the bottom of the boat. Then you will know for sure if the spider cracks you are about to seal prior to repainting were in fact allowing water to enter the hull. You will need to wait a month to let it thoroughly dry out after performing this test.
Q4: if the boat floats like a "normal" 13, you do not have a waterlog problem. If it seems to sit uncharacteristically low in the water, or if it will not float when filled with water, your hull may be waterlogged.
Q5: No, I would not have drilled the holes in my boat unless I had reason to believe that the hull was full of water.
Q6: I do not know anything about trolling motors.
Hope this helps.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-29-2002 03:27 AM ET (US)
I think JB makes some really good points. I would take his advice and repost your questions one at a time in the appropriate sections of the FORUM. This is the Performance section and may be part of the reason you have not gotten many responses to your questions about repairing your boat. Try the Repair/Mods section instead.
A lack of water dripping from a Whaler is in no way an indicator that there is no water in the hull. For several months I had an old 13' in my driveway. It dripped not a drop even though it held 80 gallons of water in the foam!
posted 05-29-2002 08:10 AM ET (US)
I felt compelled to answer his many questions even though I did not know what I was talking about. Imagine, someone calling us an unfriendly, unhelpful group! :)
posted 05-29-2002 01:42 PM ET (US)
We are a friendly bunch. My attention span is so small, I couldn't keep up with the amount of various questions.
I don't have your answers, wish I did, but I will try patience and watch, and learn.
Never met a bad whaler bud either....
posted 05-29-2002 08:02 PM ET (US)
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-29-2002 08:24 PM ET (US)
That's correct, 80 (as in eight zero) gallons or 640 pounds. Read about it here: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001747.html
posted 05-30-2002 11:15 AM ET (US)
posted 05-30-2002 05:34 PM ET (US)
Welcome to the forum, Giles. I wouldn't sweat any stress cracks. I've owned about 7 whalers to date, and each had some, somewhere. Appearance only, IMHO. If 2 strong adults can pick it up and carry (no motor), it's likely not waterlogged. My 1970 13' was like this when I bought. Probably 250 pounds, plus or minus.
I'd go with original colors to paint back, and I have used gelcoat on mine. Great boat! Mav
posted 01-05-2003 11:46 PM ET (US)
Yes, I was just going to add that 2 people should be able to pick up an 86 13' BW.
Not easily, but it can be done. Also, a sure fire way of telling, is that with the boat in the water without an engine look at the side of the boat, all the way to the stearn. It should look like it doesnt need to have a waterline painted on it. It shouldnt touch the water. the dead center may touch (less than an inch) but at the stearn, it should raise about 2 inches out of the water....if it does, then there is no H2O in the foam.
That year was typically fitted with 30hp Evenrudes from the dealer, if it still has something of that nature, (2stroke) then it should still appear to not need a waterline painted on it.
Hope that helps,
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