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Author Topic:   '71 13 needs new motor advice

JED posted 07-24-2002 02:22 AM ET (US)
I bought an old fixer upper a year ago. Ironically she's the same year boat I had as a teen on the East Coast. (I just turned 40) I've restored the hull and bright-work pretty good and now she needs some new juice - although I must say that her original '71 Evinrude runs great! But the smoke and the noise need to be "history". Because of the weight factor, I've come to like the Yamaha f-40 181 lbs. before I buy, are there any opinions on my choice of new motors?
JFM posted 07-24-2002 09:08 AM ET (US)
Jed, I have installed a F40 15" shaft on my 1972 13' sport. It runs and sounds like a dream.
The only problem to me was mounting the motor. I did not want to go below the water line with through bolts or lag bolts. I used a CMC adjustable jack plate and was able to keep the 4 bolts in the motor well.
If I didn't get a good deal on the F40 15"($2500 used), I would have gone with the 20". The transom was modified with teak (built up) and had a 20" on it before the F40. It does ride a little low in the stern, but I weight 215 and usually have another person back there an also have a 12 gallon pate tank under the helm seat.
Regards, Jay
Bigshot posted 07-24-2002 09:55 AM ET (US)
Jay....move the pate under the front twart if you can.
andygere posted 07-24-2002 11:32 AM ET (US)
Before I sold my '72 13, I was considering a Nissan/Tohatsu 2 stroke. They are available with tilt/trim in a 15" shaft, are light and have a good rep for reliability.
JED posted 07-24-2002 12:35 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the responses. I will look into this CMC adjustable jack plate and maybe the 20" shaft. I don’t really like the souped-up look of the jack plate (I saw New Engine for 13 Sport? photos) but at the same time I don't think I want to drill any holes below the waterline either. I can probably get used to the modern look though. The new engine itself will be a departure from 100% vintage. Jay, what method did you use to shim the jack plates to the curved transom?
What's a 12 gallon pate tank? Are there any photos posted?
JFM posted 07-24-2002 01:49 PM ET (US)
JED, I used polyethalene(spelling???) cut to fit the curve of the transom for shims. Also, with a 20" motor, bolted high you should be able to fit your 4 bolts in the motor well and not use a jack plate. However, your motor will look like it's hanging in air if you don't block up the transom. A pate tank in a high quality fiberglass tank that fits nice under a 13's seats.
I may move my tank up as Bigshot recomends, but I have 2 supports on my forward seat(not original). Regards, Jay
JED posted 07-24-2002 03:54 PM ET (US)
Jay, what prop do you have on that F-40 15"?
JFM posted 07-24-2002 05:56 PM ET (US)
Standard 15 aluminum Yammi I think, it's not marked anywhere. Regards, Jay
soggy bottom boy posted 07-24-2002 07:23 PM ET (US)
I am in the process of repowering a 1988 13 Sport and have decided on a 25hp 4 stroke Yamaha. I think it weighs around 140lbs, which seemed enough with full load of gas and battery. The 40 seemed to be too heavy. Can a 13' handle the weight of a 40 4 stroke?
Soggy.
JFM posted 07-24-2002 10:10 PM ET (US)
Soggy, my 13 handles the Yamaha F40 (180lbs.), CMC jack plate(20 lbs.), a 12 gallon tank(100lbs.) and me(215lbs.) all in the stern just fine. With 2 100 lbs. boys, cooler and fishing eqpt. we hit 36-37 mph on GPS. You won't get close to that with the F25 (you may not want to go that fast). But I like the extra power for water sports when not fishing. Regards, Jay
JED posted 07-25-2002 11:48 AM ET (US)
Jay, If your 72 13'Sport has a built up transom, it sounds like the 15" shaft would be to short. Or did you take the build up out and use the jacks not to actually raise the motor up but to retrofit the bolting into the motor well. My boat is a '71 13 Sport with the small sink looking motor well. I believe yours is the same type. The bolting must be pretty close to the bottom of that well.
JFM posted 07-25-2002 12:34 PM ET (US)
JED, I built my 15" transom up with teak. This was tough and I had to use a band saw to contour the shape of the transom and also cut a piece to use as an anchor to hold the contoured piece. This looked nice with the 20" original motor.
I removed the teak to use the 15" motor. I had to use the jackplate to keep the 4 motor bolts in the well. I think I could have done this without the jackplate if I bolted the 15 all the way up, but I didn't think the prop. would be low enough (I do now). Regards, Jay
JED posted 07-25-2002 12:37 PM ET (US)
Soggy, I did a test. The weight of The Yamaha F-40 manual start and tilt weighs in at 181 lbs. My old Evinrude weighs 131 lbs. With the boat ('71 13 Sp.) at the dock I put a 50 lb. weight on top of the motor. My small U1 type battery (22lbs.) is mounted under the forward thwart. I put A full 6-gallon tank in the front. Surprisingly the boat sits level in the water with the sides out of the water about 1/4". Now, with passengers and myself she's gonna ride lower in the water but because I keep my boat at the dock, my initial concern was the bottom paint which I did not want to paint up on the sides at all. If you want electric start and power trim then that's going to add another 16 lbs. on the f-40, not that much more I guess. I've been pull starting my Evinrude. Usually one pull, I don't mind it. It can be thought of as cool like a kick-start on a motor cycle.
JED
JFM posted 07-25-2002 12:48 PM ET (US)
JED, you can't get power T/T on the F40 15". If you are buying new I would go with the 20" with T/T, unless you can get a SUPER deal on the 15". Regards, Jay
JED posted 07-25-2002 01:15 PM ET (US)
Jay, You were lucky to find that used f-40 motor-the're hard to find. New, the power t/t will raise my cost almost $1000. The motor itself is about $700 more and I would have to get new steering set up and t/t control box. It's over my budget, but will I be hating myself later for not shelling out the extra $1000. Is it just the luxury of having electric start and trim, or are there other benefits to the 20"
Bigshot posted 07-25-2002 01:22 PM ET (US)
I can mention MANY advantages to having a 20" shaft....but I won't:)
JFM posted 07-25-2002 01:45 PM ET (US)
JED, How long will you keep the boat? Divide the extra money by the # of years. Also, no resale value of a F40 15" vs. great resale value for F40 20". Regards, Jay
JFM posted 07-25-2002 01:47 PM ET (US)
Also my F40 is electric start just no power T/T.
JFM posted 07-25-2002 02:41 PM ET (US)
Nick, change your handle to "John Shaft".
lhg posted 07-25-2002 03:15 PM ET (US)
The 3 cylinder Yamaha F-40 is a Mercury built engine, with a Yamaha leg, without EFI. If you can't find a Yamaha version, try Mercury, and you will get the added benefit of EFI. It will cost less at a place like Bass Pro. Mercury gives you 20 amp charging vs the Yamaha 15 amp. I can't imagine that an EFI 4 stroke will have less resale value than a carbed 4 stroke. Several years from now, they ALL will be EFI.

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Author	Topic: '71 13 needs new motor advice
JED	posted 07-24-2002 02:22 AM ET (US) I bought an old fixer upper a year ago. Ironically she's the same year boat I had as a teen on the East Coast. (I just turned 40) I've restored the hull and bright-work pretty good and now she needs some new juice - although I must say that her original '71 Evinrude runs great! But the smoke and the noise need to be "history". Because of the weight factor, I've come to like the Yamaha f-40 181 lbs. before I buy, are there any opinions on my choice of new motors?
JFM	posted 07-24-2002 09:08 AM ET (US) Jed, I have installed a F40 15" shaft on my 1972 13' sport. It runs and sounds like a dream. The only problem to me was mounting the motor. I did not want to go below the water line with through bolts or lag bolts. I used a CMC adjustable jack plate and was able to keep the 4 bolts in the motor well. If I didn't get a good deal on the F40 15"($2500 used), I would have gone with the 20". The transom was modified with teak (built up) and had a 20" on it before the F40. It does ride a little low in the stern, but I weight 215 and usually have another person back there an also have a 12 gallon pate tank under the helm seat. Regards, Jay
Bigshot	posted 07-24-2002 09:55 AM ET (US) Jay....move the pate under the front twart if you can.
andygere	posted 07-24-2002 11:32 AM ET (US) Before I sold my '72 13, I was considering a Nissan/Tohatsu 2 stroke. They are available with tilt/trim in a 15" shaft, are light and have a good rep for reliability.
JED	posted 07-24-2002 12:35 PM ET (US) Thanks for the responses. I will look into this CMC adjustable jack plate and maybe the 20" shaft. I don’t really like the souped-up look of the jack plate (I saw New Engine for 13 Sport? photos) but at the same time I don't think I want to drill any holes below the waterline either. I can probably get used to the modern look though. The new engine itself will be a departure from 100% vintage. Jay, what method did you use to shim the jack plates to the curved transom? What's a 12 gallon pate tank? Are there any photos posted?
JFM	posted 07-24-2002 01:49 PM ET (US) JED, I used polyethalene(spelling???) cut to fit the curve of the transom for shims. Also, with a 20" motor, bolted high you should be able to fit your 4 bolts in the motor well and not use a jack plate. However, your motor will look like it's hanging in air if you don't block up the transom. A pate tank in a high quality fiberglass tank that fits nice under a 13's seats. I may move my tank up as Bigshot recomends, but I have 2 supports on my forward seat(not original). Regards, Jay
JED	posted 07-24-2002 03:54 PM ET (US) Jay, what prop do you have on that F-40 15"?
JFM	posted 07-24-2002 05:56 PM ET (US) Standard 15 aluminum Yammi I think, it's not marked anywhere. Regards, Jay
soggy bottom boy	posted 07-24-2002 07:23 PM ET (US) I am in the process of repowering a 1988 13 Sport and have decided on a 25hp 4 stroke Yamaha. I think it weighs around 140lbs, which seemed enough with full load of gas and battery. The 40 seemed to be too heavy. Can a 13' handle the weight of a 40 4 stroke? Soggy.
JFM	posted 07-24-2002 10:10 PM ET (US) Soggy, my 13 handles the Yamaha F40 (180lbs.), CMC jack plate(20 lbs.), a 12 gallon tank(100lbs.) and me(215lbs.) all in the stern just fine. With 2 100 lbs. boys, cooler and fishing eqpt. we hit 36-37 mph on GPS. You won't get close to that with the F25 (you may not want to go that fast). But I like the extra power for water sports when not fishing. Regards, Jay
JED	posted 07-25-2002 11:48 AM ET (US) Jay, If your 72 13'Sport has a built up transom, it sounds like the 15" shaft would be to short. Or did you take the build up out and use the jacks not to actually raise the motor up but to retrofit the bolting into the motor well. My boat is a '71 13 Sport with the small sink looking motor well. I believe yours is the same type. The bolting must be pretty close to the bottom of that well.
JFM	posted 07-25-2002 12:34 PM ET (US) JED, I built my 15" transom up with teak. This was tough and I had to use a band saw to contour the shape of the transom and also cut a piece to use as an anchor to hold the contoured piece. This looked nice with the 20" original motor. I removed the teak to use the 15" motor. I had to use the jackplate to keep the 4 motor bolts in the well. I think I could have done this without the jackplate if I bolted the 15 all the way up, but I didn't think the prop. would be low enough (I do now). Regards, Jay
JED	posted 07-25-2002 12:37 PM ET (US) Soggy, I did a test. The weight of The Yamaha F-40 manual start and tilt weighs in at 181 lbs. My old Evinrude weighs 131 lbs. With the boat ('71 13 Sp.) at the dock I put a 50 lb. weight on top of the motor. My small U1 type battery (22lbs.) is mounted under the forward thwart. I put A full 6-gallon tank in the front. Surprisingly the boat sits level in the water with the sides out of the water about 1/4". Now, with passengers and myself she's gonna ride lower in the water but because I keep my boat at the dock, my initial concern was the bottom paint which I did not want to paint up on the sides at all. If you want electric start and power trim then that's going to add another 16 lbs. on the f-40, not that much more I guess. I've been pull starting my Evinrude. Usually one pull, I don't mind it. It can be thought of as cool like a kick-start on a motor cycle. JED
JFM	posted 07-25-2002 12:48 PM ET (US) JED, you can't get power T/T on the F40 15". If you are buying new I would go with the 20" with T/T, unless you can get a SUPER deal on the 15". Regards, Jay
JED	posted 07-25-2002 01:15 PM ET (US) Jay, You were lucky to find that used f-40 motor-the're hard to find. New, the power t/t will raise my cost almost $1000. The motor itself is about $700 more and I would have to get new steering set up and t/t control box. It's over my budget, but will I be hating myself later for not shelling out the extra $1000. Is it just the luxury of having electric start and trim, or are there other benefits to the 20"
Bigshot	posted 07-25-2002 01:22 PM ET (US) I can mention MANY advantages to having a 20" shaft....but I won't:)
JFM	posted 07-25-2002 01:45 PM ET (US) JED, How long will you keep the boat? Divide the extra money by the # of years. Also, no resale value of a F40 15" vs. great resale value for F40 20". Regards, Jay
JFM	posted 07-25-2002 01:47 PM ET (US) Also my F40 is electric start just no power T/T.
JFM	posted 07-25-2002 02:41 PM ET (US) Nick, change your handle to "John Shaft".
lhg	posted 07-25-2002 03:15 PM ET (US) The 3 cylinder Yamaha F-40 is a Mercury built engine, with a Yamaha leg, without EFI. If you can't find a Yamaha version, try Mercury, and you will get the added benefit of EFI. It will cost less at a place like Bass Pro. Mercury gives you 20 amp charging vs the Yamaha 15 amp. I can't imagine that an EFI 4 stroke will have less resale value than a carbed 4 stroke. Several years from now, they ALL will be EFI.