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Author Topic:   Trailer for Montauk
John Starks posted 07-30-2002 02:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for John Starks   Send Email to John Starks  
I am in need of a new trailer and would like the experience of someone that has recently bought one. Also can you give me a ball park price for Aluminum or Galvinized?
kamml posted 07-30-2002 05:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for kamml  Send Email to kamml     
John As you probably thought it depends on where you live. I bought a new galvanized bunk trailer this year for $1600,including bronze disk brakes, 13" trailer tires and side bunks near Augusta Ga. Other places seem a lot higher money wise. Ken
lhg posted 07-30-2002 06:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Two years ago I was quoted $750 for a Montauk trailer, 1700lb capacity, 13" wheels, all galvanized welded channel steel frame, keel roller system, no brakes. It was a Continental, only sold in state of FL.
KleyP posted 07-30-2002 11:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for KleyP  Send Email to KleyP     
You can get a Venture trailer for about $800. They are made in They are bolted together, not welded and certainly not aluminum. They represent the lower end of the spectrum, but in 4 years (except for the plastic fenders, see below), I haven't had any trouble with them.

I tow with a Ford full size Van (E-350) which is rated for 10,000 pounds, and I didn't feel that trailer brakes were necessary. They are a big investment, both in terms of upfront cost and ongoing maintenance. If you have a smaller vehicle, and you are towing near its limit (figure weight of boat, motor, gas, gear, trailer etc. to be 2,500#), I would highly recommend trailer brakes.

I recommend that no matter what trailer you buy, you replace the lights with LEDs..available at,, or your local truck store. check out as the OEM for alot of LEDs (and traditional trailer lights). LEDs don't burn out, they are brighter, you don't have to unplug the lights to submerge, etc.

If you get a trailer with plastic fenders, it would be wise to replace with steel, unless you want rubber marks on your boat (they do rub out).

andiamo posted 07-31-2002 04:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for andiamo  Send Email to andiamo     
What are the benefits of a bunk trailer vs. a roller trailer?

Do motor boat trailers come with inertia breaks? These are hydrolic trailer breaks that have the reservoir on the trailer tung. As the breaks in the vehicle are applied and the trailer pushes forward the hydrolic ram forses fluid into the break lines and applies the trailer breaks. These were normal on J24 trailers when I used to tow one of those around the US and Canada. If memory serves a J24 with trailer and rig etc weighed about 4500lbs.

flyguy posted 08-01-2002 04:33 PM ET (US)     Profile for flyguy  Send Email to flyguy     
i talked to a few trailer and whaler dealers and they all agreed that the loadrite 17170090VW was the right choice for my boat (1966 nauset). the W at the end stands for whaler so the factory installs the keel rollers which our boats need. $1,200. might be good for you too.
jstachowiak posted 08-02-2002 03:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for jstachowiak  Send Email to jstachowiak     
Trailers do depend on where you live, since many are made regionally. I bought my Loadmaster Aluminum with the all SS package for my Newport for $1500.00. I had two galvanized trailers and they last about 5 to 7 years in saltwater.

Loadmaster site:

kamml posted 08-02-2002 07:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for kamml  Send Email to kamml     
For years I towed without brakes, confident that my automobile/Pickup truck exceeded the weight of my boat/trailer so braking was no sweat. What do I know about physics and Newton's laws anyway. I was either right or very lucky since I didn't have to have my own theory tested in practice. In retrospect I think the latter. With the new trailer I added brakes and because of the salt I went with the bronze discs. My towing experience is entirely different now. I do an initial push which engages the interia master cylinder on the trailer, ease up a little on the pedal and use a reduced braking effort to stop the entire rig. It actually feels like it takes less brake to stop when towing the trailer than when the trailer is not back there. This surprised me. Try the new disc setup on your next trailer, they are relatively inexpensive, maintenance free and very effective. Really a cheap safety add on. Ken
half shell posted 08-02-2002 10:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for half shell  Send Email to half shell     
flyguy I to am looking at the load rite that you have specified.I did not see the w suffix version.Is that only a factory option or can it be done at the dealer?
I am planning on purchasing this fall and if factory only I should order soon.
Please advise?
flyguy posted 08-04-2002 08:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for flyguy  Send Email to flyguy     
it's put on at the factory before shipping. it's not advertised because it's considered a custom trailer. as far as i know the only thing added were the keel rollers and i'm sure the dealer can do it. i ordered it and it was there in 2 days. if you're ordering in the fall maybe you can get a used trailer and save some $$. i couldn't fine anything and had to buy right away. by the way, compared to my old sled of a trailer this one is's wider and the boat sits much lower.
whaleryo posted 08-06-2002 12:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for whaleryo  Send Email to whaleryo     
Actually, you can do it yourself as I did. I added Stoltz Poly rollers which cost about 3 times as much as the black rubber rollers, but are definately worth it. Starting at the back of the trailer, I used 12" , 8", and then (2)5" rollers. See the reference article about proper weight distribution in setting up the bunks.

My Montauk slides right into the water with almost no effort.


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