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  What is the Best Trailer for a 16' 7" Hull

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Author Topic:   What is the Best Trailer for a 16' 7" Hull
NHKatama posted 12-05-2002 04:38 PM ET (US)   Profile for NHKatama   Send Email to NHKatama  
I am thinking about buying an Alum Load Master Trailer (They are made In Tampa) for my Katama. Anyone out there have one of these. Also, I am looking for opinions as to the Best Trailer for the 16' 7" Hull.

Thanks guys, ~~~~~~Pete

Montauk72 posted 12-05-2002 07:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for Montauk72  Send Email to Montauk72     
I have an old Loadrite for my 16 7. She sits on bunks.Two rollers in the middle. She slides off real easy but can be a real pain cranking her back on. If you get a trailer with the two bunks, spring for the electric wench.
Dick posted 12-05-2002 07:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dick  Send Email to Dick     
My Montauk is on a Shorelander full bunk trailer, no rollers. It works great as the ramps I use I can either float on or power on.
If you have to winch on with a bunk trailer pick up a product called Liquid Rollers made by Mary Kate. After you put it on the bunks don't release the winch strap untill you are ready for the boat to slide off.
triblet posted 12-06-2002 07:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Electric wench? Is that a high tech version
of an inflatable date? ;-)

I've probably got the same Shorland'r trailer
Dick has. I use silicone on the carpets
a couple of times a year. Admiral Linda
can (and usualy does) winch it up. No
electric wench required.

Now, there will be some who will say you
GOTTA have a keel roller trailer, but whaler
says all bunk is OK, there are lots of us
here with all bunk trailers, and nobody has
reported problems due to the all-bunk.


Chuck

triblet posted 12-06-2002 07:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
oops, that should be ShoreLand'r.

BTW, there are lots of good trailer makers.
the trick is to avoid the bad ones. A couple
of years ago when I went to pull the whaler
out after a houseboat trip, there was a
fellow on the ramp with a broken trailer.
He had a bass boat that was at least a
size bigger than my Montauk, and the trailer
(same brand as bass boat) was built a LOT
lighter than my ShoreLand'r. It had broken
a weld and bent a cross member. Dunno which
was cause and which was effect.

Look at a lot of trailers. Box members
are stronger than U channel for the same
size and thickness, but U channel is fine
if big enough. Box members can trap water
(more important in salt water). Look at
wall thickness, this is where you will see
the big difference between good trailers and
cheap trailers.

If you ever think you might go near salt
(or even brackish) water, get a galvanized
or alumuinum trailer. I think I'd get one
even in Wisconsin.

Stainless hardware is rare on trailers, but
I'm gradually replacing all the bolts with SS
as I do maintenance, though I probably
won't replace the high stress bolts around
the axle (SS isn't as strong as normal
steel).

Chuck

larimore posted 12-06-2002 09:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for larimore  Send Email to larimore     
After looking for a good trailer for a year,
I just got a Float-On trailer - Fantastic !
The Bunk system is fantastic, adjusts to hull - Patented. Top of the line trailer and service www.floaton.com. They build and bring the trailer to you.
Bigshot posted 12-06-2002 10:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Guys I hate to say this but.....just about EVERY aluminum trailer you buy is made by Tow-Master but assembled by the individual companies which is usually a shongo like backyard plant. My "Sturdy-Built" is the same exact trailer(I mean exact)as a Tow master, Rolls, Float-on, Tropic, etc. Go for the best price. I have the 17-19' Sturdy-built with the stainless steel kit and 3500lb rating with torsion axle....what a trailer! That baby is like butter. I also run a Tropic alum trailer under my Baja. Make suere you get the SS kit, worth the $100 or whatever. Torsion axle is not necessary but it is smooth. I am going to put shorter bunks on mine being my keel islike 8 inches from the cross members. No keel rollers, not necessary in my apllication being I float it on, NEVER power it on, screws up the ramps....BIGTIME.
lhg posted 12-09-2002 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
I still think the slickest little trailer I have ever seen under a 16/17 Montauk is made by Continental, model C-7 in 2000lb carrying capacity, for about $800. This is all welded, structural channel frame galvanized, four cross frame members for keel rollers, 13" wheels, with Dry Launch waterproof lights. But one can only be picked up in FL.
It's a very high quality trailer for a great price.
NHKatama posted 12-10-2002 01:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for NHKatama  Send Email to NHKatama     
IHG where can I find a Continental model C-7 Trailer? You said that they are made in FL, does anyone have a tele number, web address, or address for them.


Thanks, ~~~~Pete

Tom W Clark posted 12-10-2002 02:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Pete,

Information on Continental Trailers can be found at, not surprisingly, www.continentaltrailers.com

Bigshot posted 12-10-2002 02:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Contis are VERY popular down here. Them and magic tilt/trail are about the only Galv trailers you really see, rest are aluminum. $800 is great considering my alum trailer was close to $1500.
lhg posted 12-10-2002 03:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
If you go to the website, you want either the "Tilt" or "Extra Wide" frame trailers. They do not list their complete selection V-frame tilt trailers on the site, evidently. I know someone who just bought one in 8000# capacity for a 25 Revenge, and that size is not shown on the website.

These folks are one of the few manufacturers that still make keel roller trailers for Whalers. I have noticed that many Florida Whaler Dealers use them.

DaveH posted 12-20-2002 10:29 AM ET (US)     Profile for DaveH  Send Email to DaveH     
Chuck Triblet:

Just a side note to you. I do not wish to start a thread here on the strength of materials, but the assumption in your last post is not correct as a blanket statement:

Stainless hardware is rare on trailers, but I'm gradually replacing all the bolts with SS as I do maintenance, though I probably won't replace the high stress bolts around the axle (SS isn't as strong as normal steel).

There are hundreds of alloys of steel (some of which are stainless) which are designed for various qualities such as tensile strength, impact resistance, ductility, etc. For each alloy, desirable qualities can be increased by further conditioning.

For example, typical tensile stength ranges for 304 S/S vary depending if annealed (75,000 psi) or coldworked (185,000 psi).

Your choice to replace the (assumed) galvanized carbon steel bolts is an excellent one. If you wish, you may contact the trailer manufacturer for S/S recommendations for these areas. My assumption is that a common grade 304L (low carbon) or 316 S/S bolt of the same diameter and thread pattern as the replaced hardware would more than suffice in any trailer application.

By the way, I really like your dive web site.
- Dave

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