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Author Topic:   Winter Fogging Vs. Monthly Startup

minimontauk posted 12-29-2002 04:35 PM ET (US)
I'm putting my 87' 15' Sport CC to bed for the winter. I could fog the cylinders and winterize it, or I suppose I could start it up once a month or so with the garden hose and ears attached. I have a battery charger/ maintainer to keep the battery fresh. Is starting and idling it for 10 minutes or so once a month signifigantly better for motor health than just fogging it? If so, why?
minimontauk posted 12-29-2002 04:37 PM ET (US)
Forgot to mention: The motor is a 96' Johnson 48 HP, 2 stroke.
SSCH posted 12-29-2002 07:33 PM ET (US)
Nothing seems to work as well for me as periodic running of the engine. It keeps the cylinder walls oiled and has the the advantage of running fuel thru the carbs as well (plus you rotate the water pump so that some of the vanes are not left compressed all winter). Be sure not to let the fuel get too old between runnings. Gasoline has a relatively short shelf life. If you truely fog the engine well, and drain all the fuel out of the carbs and don't have an oiling system, you might find winterizing a better solution. You still won't have the satisfaction of hearing the engine run during the winter. If it ever does fail to start, at least you can get it fixed during the down season.
I should (in fairness) add that we have year around boating here in coastal Texas. I have never had to deal with really long periods of no use, so a few starts during the slow periods is no big deal.
Dick posted 12-29-2002 09:25 PM ET (US)
minimontauk
More important than fogging is adding stabilizer to your fuel and then running the engine dry. This will help eliminate gum in the carbs.
Two strokes leave a film of oil on the cylinders but if you want extra protection, fog. After the carbs have run dry pull the plugs and shoot a squirt of fogging oil into each cylinder. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times and put the plugs back in.
You can shoot the fogging oil in to the carbs to the point you kill the engine but in 30 years of winterizing I haven't done it that way. Don't see any reason injecting heavy fogging oil into the carbs.
Dick
weekendwarrior posted 12-29-2002 11:48 PM ET (US)
re the fogging oil through the carbs, I thought it was to cote the crank and rod bearings as well as the cylinders?

Cpt Quint posted 12-30-2002 11:01 AM ET (US)
I would fog on a smaller engine, say 90hp or less, and then only if you did not intend to crank it more than 90 days. Outside that running down to the boat house once every 30 to 45 days to let her run for 20minutes or so is really the best medicine
SaintGeorge posted 01-02-2003 07:46 PM ET (US)
I think you worry too much.
You know, a lot of people do nothing!
And never have a problem!
Nowadays, keeping the gas stabilized is most important, besides using the engine manufacturers brand of oil.
As for oil, in a 2 stroke, the oil will be distributed by the fuel mix.
Is starting it significantly better? Who knows, I don't think that's been tested. Some mechanics and engineers contend that 90% of all your engine wear occurs during the starting sequence. I would think then why I want to start it without using it?
My grandfather had a particular 5 1/2 Johnson motor 1949? 50? That he like a lot. His storage method was to run clean fuel through it and then run it dry, being sure the carb was really drained. Then he used the two stroke engine oil, and squirted some in the cylinders, and put the spark-plugs in loose. There the motor was on the stand in the basement. Every so often, he would remove the plugs, give it a small shot of oil, and turn it over slowly by hand, then put the plugs back.
If you really have time to attend to this motor, a version of this makes more sense to me.
jp
minimontauk posted 01-02-2003 08:44 PM ET (US)
I am worried about my complete ignorance when it comes to Marine engines, hence all the questions. I spoke to a local Marine mechanic today, who recommended just fogging it and running it dry. My engine has a fogging port on the side that accepts a screw on nozzle for OMC fogging spray.
weekendwarrior posted 01-03-2003 09:11 AM ET (US)
SaintGeorge,
I believe that the 90% of wear at startup rumor applies to 4-strokes. The assertion is that it takes some time for the oil pump to start getting oil to the moving parts in the motor after a cold star.
Florida15 posted 01-05-2003 10:43 PM ET (US)
I have always just started my 50 hp Johnson and let it run for 10 minutes about once a
month and never had any problems. I always disconnect the fuel line and run the gas out of the carb before putting it back in the garage. My boat usually sits from October to March (due to hunting season). I don't know if it would be any different in a colder climate but it works in Northwest Florida.

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Author	Topic: Winter Fogging Vs. Monthly Startup
minimontauk	posted 12-29-2002 04:35 PM ET (US) I'm putting my 87' 15' Sport CC to bed for the winter. I could fog the cylinders and winterize it, or I suppose I could start it up once a month or so with the garden hose and ears attached. I have a battery charger/ maintainer to keep the battery fresh. Is starting and idling it for 10 minutes or so once a month signifigantly better for motor health than just fogging it? If so, why?
minimontauk	posted 12-29-2002 04:37 PM ET (US) Forgot to mention: The motor is a 96' Johnson 48 HP, 2 stroke.
SSCH	posted 12-29-2002 07:33 PM ET (US) Nothing seems to work as well for me as periodic running of the engine. It keeps the cylinder walls oiled and has the the advantage of running fuel thru the carbs as well (plus you rotate the water pump so that some of the vanes are not left compressed all winter). Be sure not to let the fuel get too old between runnings. Gasoline has a relatively short shelf life. If you truely fog the engine well, and drain all the fuel out of the carbs and don't have an oiling system, you might find winterizing a better solution. You still won't have the satisfaction of hearing the engine run during the winter. If it ever does fail to start, at least you can get it fixed during the down season. I should (in fairness) add that we have year around boating here in coastal Texas. I have never had to deal with really long periods of no use, so a few starts during the slow periods is no big deal.
Dick	posted 12-29-2002 09:25 PM ET (US) minimontauk More important than fogging is adding stabilizer to your fuel and then running the engine dry. This will help eliminate gum in the carbs. Two strokes leave a film of oil on the cylinders but if you want extra protection, fog. After the carbs have run dry pull the plugs and shoot a squirt of fogging oil into each cylinder. Turn the engine over by hand a couple times and put the plugs back in. You can shoot the fogging oil in to the carbs to the point you kill the engine but in 30 years of winterizing I haven't done it that way. Don't see any reason injecting heavy fogging oil into the carbs. Dick
weekendwarrior	posted 12-29-2002 11:48 PM ET (US) re the fogging oil through the carbs, I thought it was to cote the crank and rod bearings as well as the cylinders?
Cpt Quint	posted 12-30-2002 11:01 AM ET (US) I would fog on a smaller engine, say 90hp or less, and then only if you did not intend to crank it more than 90 days. Outside that running down to the boat house once every 30 to 45 days to let her run for 20minutes or so is really the best medicine
SaintGeorge	posted 01-02-2003 07:46 PM ET (US) I think you worry too much. You know, a lot of people do nothing! And never have a problem! Nowadays, keeping the gas stabilized is most important, besides using the engine manufacturers brand of oil. As for oil, in a 2 stroke, the oil will be distributed by the fuel mix. Is starting it significantly better? Who knows, I don't think that's been tested. Some mechanics and engineers contend that 90% of all your engine wear occurs during the starting sequence. I would think then why I want to start it without using it? My grandfather had a particular 5 1/2 Johnson motor 1949? 50? That he like a lot. His storage method was to run clean fuel through it and then run it dry, being sure the carb was really drained. Then he used the two stroke engine oil, and squirted some in the cylinders, and put the spark-plugs in loose. There the motor was on the stand in the basement. Every so often, he would remove the plugs, give it a small shot of oil, and turn it over slowly by hand, then put the plugs back. If you really have time to attend to this motor, a version of this makes more sense to me. jp
minimontauk	posted 01-02-2003 08:44 PM ET (US) I am worried about my complete ignorance when it comes to Marine engines, hence all the questions. I spoke to a local Marine mechanic today, who recommended just fogging it and running it dry. My engine has a fogging port on the side that accepts a screw on nozzle for OMC fogging spray.
weekendwarrior	posted 01-03-2003 09:11 AM ET (US) SaintGeorge, I believe that the 90% of wear at startup rumor applies to 4-strokes. The assertion is that it takes some time for the oil pump to start getting oil to the moving parts in the motor after a cold star.
Florida15	posted 01-05-2003 10:43 PM ET (US) I have always just started my 50 hp Johnson and let it run for 10 minutes about once a month and never had any problems. I always disconnect the fuel line and run the gas out of the carb before putting it back in the garage. My boat usually sits from October to March (due to hunting season). I don't know if it would be any different in a colder climate but it works in Northwest Florida.