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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Newport 17' w/88hp performance.....anyone?
|Author||Topic: Newport 17' w/88hp performance.....anyone?|
posted 02-19-2003 09:06 AM ET (US)
Just purchased a 1984 17' Newport with a 1995 freshly rebuilt Johnson 88hp. She is running a 13 3/8x17" SS prop but the engine is down on the transom with bolts in the blind holes. Cavitation plate is level with hull. Bottom paint, PTnT, NO doel-fin as well. I can get about 5300 WOT with 2 people and a full tank of gas. The boat sits good in the water so I believe hull is dry. Holeshot is pretty sick compared to my 70hp 4 stroke, top end does not seem too impressive, I have not GPS'd it yet but....40-42 maybe?
What are you guys running with what setup. What I mean is I am mainly interested in 88 & 90hp OMC owners and what they are running mph wise and where is their engine mounted with what prop, doel fin, etc. GPS or other means of accurate readings please.
posted 02-19-2003 09:08 AM ET (US)
PS...anyone ever weigh the cap that is on this boat? I can't believe this thing is only 50lbs heavier than a montauk unless the montauk console is that much heavier. Thoughts?
posted 02-19-2003 01:49 PM ET (US)
I ran a similar setup until my motor ate a piston ring at the end of last season. I have a 88 Montauk which, until recently, had a 1988 88hp SPL 'rude. It was also set with cavitation plate even with hull and used the blind holes on the bottom. With bottom paint, rear seat, 2 adults and no t/t I would get about 38mph on a SS 13 3/8 - 17" pitch. The great thing about the engine is that with 6 people and additional gear it would still go about 36mph. Last spring I had the engine re-tuned and installed power t/t. I recorded 43+ mph on GPS (nearly 6K rpm) on a number of occasions w/ two people. That was before "the incident". Could have used a 19" but the boat is mostly used for cruising or tubing with a lot of people. The hole-shot with that motor is really strong... make sure everyone is strapped in before you hammer it!
I have since installed a 1996 90hp Johnson 60 degree. I am rewiring the console during the winter months. I have not run it yet because of the weather. I think the new engine will feel even stronger. Hope to get it wet in March. Enjoy the Newport, its a classy looking ride!
posted 02-19-2003 02:01 PM ET (US)
Seems you are in the ball park. Probably get a few more MPH by raising engine a couple of holes.
It is interesting that the cap would only make 50 lbs difference between models. I had never though of that. But then the cap can't be too heavy it has no structual strength, wonder if BW made the gunnels lighter on the Newports, knowing they were going to cap it?
Great classic ride, envy..
posted 02-19-2003 02:52 PM ET (US)
Hull is identical structurally. The only thing I can think is the railings on the montauk weigh about 30lbs(?) and the console weighs more being it is enclosed. The Newport's console is bigger but just a "L" shaped piece of fiberglass. The console on my montauk is 3" thick in certain areas. The cap on the newport is pretty substantial and that is why I thought it would be VERY costly to ship(if you remember that post a while back) being it is about 6-8" wide and close to a 1' deep plus the front deck area. They also use a 2 piece rubrail instead of the 3 which I found odd. Th RPS is also mohagony with no rear storage, just another pad which is sweet.
posted 02-19-2003 03:56 PM ET (US)
Nick: '87 Johnson 90hp. I get about 39-40 MPH on the GPS at WOT, 5100-5200 rpms. 13.25 x 17 aluminum prop, engine down on transom/bolts in the blind holes. Cavitation plate is also level with hull. No bottom paint, PTnT, no doel-fin. Great hole shot. Runs as above with one, 2, even 4 adults and 15g fuel, although hole shot slows with additional bodies, but WOT and MPH remain steady at top end.
Before I sheared the drive shaft I was running a 13.25x19 aluminum prop at 4900-5000rpm at WOT. 43 MPH, but hole shot suffered.
posted 02-21-2003 03:05 PM ET (US)
Regarding the cap, when I pulled mine off the boat it wasn't very heavy. We used three people to lift it, but that was more for the awkward size than the weight. I'd guess that it's 60-70 lbs -- it's surprisingly thin fiberglass in most places with plywood backing plates under the railings and what looked on mine like a balsa wood core under the foredeck.
posted 02-21-2003 04:06 PM ET (US)
thanks smeric et al.
What did you do with the cap? If someone(new buyer) is to remove the cap, are there holes and scuff marks in/on the hull? It looks to me that the cap is pop riveted to where the rubrail goes on the montauk, just wondering if you did remove it would you basically just have to install a rubrail and railings and make a Montauk(with appropriate console of course)? For you guys who made Newtauks, what does the cap look like where the console mounts, is it smooth like the other side or will it need glass work and some ingenuity?
posted 02-21-2003 06:54 PM ET (US)
I took the cap off to repair the backing plates and delamination under the foredeck -- it's currently under two feet of snow in my backyard.
If you pull the cap to make a Montauk, you'll find gel coated fiberglass underneath on the main hull, just like a Montauk. There will be a few holes to fill in the interior where the bottom of the cap screws into the sides of the boat. The primary attachment on mine is a second line of rivets underneath the rub rail.
The area on the cap where the console attaches is also gelcoated, but will have two big screw holes in it.
posted 02-21-2003 07:57 PM ET (US)
3) ... engine down on transom bolts in the blind holes?
Translation please. Thanks guys.
posted 02-21-2003 08:00 PM ET (US)
I think I got #1: power tilt and trim, right? I've owned probably five or six small outboards in my life (as kickers for sailboats and dinks), but never one with this feature (until last week).
posted 02-21-2003 11:51 PM ET (US)
Finally, a question I can answer. When I pulled the console from my Newport out, there were a couple of bolts holding it in place against the cap. There was also a nice 1.5"approx hole there the steering cable went through. If there wasn't still a bunch of snow outside I'd pull the cover and take a few quick picks for you. I solved the problem with the large hole very easily, I went to my local marine supply store, purchased a perko transome light and it fit right in. One other thing, besides the wholes and being the original color of the gelcoat, it looked like the day it was finished.
One last thing, I was feeling around the underside of the deck and noticed there were two notches cut out of the top of the boat. When I was thinking about making a complete conversion I asked about them and someone emailed me that they were made to allow a couple of bolts to be fastened. If you feel up on the top, they'll be one on each side about 18" from the bow light.
Good luck with the boat.
posted 02-22-2003 10:51 AM ET (US)
I have a Newport with a 70 and it turns about 37 mph by gps with a 17" prop. One of the things I am considering doing when I need to replace my cable steering will be run it down the starboard side of the gunnel on the Newport. I do not like the fact that the cable steering comes out of the sump area and with the Newport design I think this should be an easy task when the times comes... Will have to use a shorter cable though. As well I think I prefer the cap on the Newport as you can actually sit on the sides and fish, jig or whatever...Not sure I would remove them.. The only other thing I ever thought about doing would be to maybe remove the front rail windsheild combo. This would allow for easier egress when beaching and loading/unloading the boat. However on the flip side it is a good wind break for the kids...
posted 02-24-2003 10:00 AM ET (US)
I am not removing the cap....just wondering. My steering cable is down the starboard side and that is another factor being I would need a new cable(longer) in order to mount a jackplate.
I am almost done shining her up. New rubrail insert. I have her buffed, waxed, and bottom sanded and painted. Engine was sanded and painted as well. The only thing I have to do now is put the swim platform back on and spit and polish the interior which needs very little work. The front windscreen is still good with a small crack. Does anyone know where to get the rubber seal that is under it(white)? Canvas and upholstery are new and perfect.
I am gonna sell it with my alum trailer and I will just buy a new trailer once sold if I don't find a good one now. Wrong time of year to be trailer shopping for used. Can't wait to get it in the water this weekend and put some hours on it.
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