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Author Topic:   Anyone added Keel Rollers to an EZ Load
Owen Schultz posted 04-12-2003 01:26 AM ET (US)   Profile for Owen Schultz   Send Email to Owen Schultz  
I have a Float on trailer that only has two crossbars for a 17' Newport. Have read a lot about keel roller trailers being prefered by Boston Whaler. Anyone ever Installed a couple of keel roller on their float on?
kingfish posted 04-12-2003 07:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     

I have added additional cross members and I have added keel rollers to my EZ-Loader bunk trailer for my Outrage 22. (Five cross members total and ten 12" Stoltz keel rollers on stainless pins. Rollers and pins from Champion Trailer.)

The cross members on my trailer are in a shallow V configuration which prevented me from being able to find any standard roller brackets, so I designed my own and had a local sheet metal shop cut and break them out of galvanized stock.

I have kept the drawings I made for the brackets and would be happy to scan them in and e-mail them to you if you find yourself in the same position I did. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you might have about a potential install.


Owen Schultz posted 04-12-2003 09:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for Owen Schultz  Send Email to Owen Schultz     
yeah, I would be interested in seeing your drawings for sure. Looking at Boston Whaler's site and back in the posts it seems everyone stresses how important it is to have the boat supported by the keel. I read also though that some new whalers are coming with the "drive on" ez load type trailers. My situation is that I live on 3 miles of gravel road in the mountains (The road has some good grade to it). Sometimes the road gets a little washboarded and I am concerned about the boat bouncing a little with no keel support. I have a galvanized Shore Landr' trailer. Ah so much to do, so little time.
kingfish posted 04-12-2003 09:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
There are a lot of differing opinions here about when and how important it is to follow BW's recommendations regarding keel rollers; I come at it from the more conservative side, and believe it's the right thing to do. I'd rather err on the safe side than wish after the fact that I'd done something different.

I would think though, that in almost anyone's book the conditions you describe would be appropriate for adding keel rollers.

I'll scan my plans and get them off to you. If your e-mail address is not in your profile, open my profile to get my e-mail address and send yours to me-


andygere posted 04-12-2003 11:57 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
John, could you please send a set of your drawings to me as well? I have an EZ Loader bunk trailer for my OR 22, and even the transom roller does not touch the hull when the boat is loaded. I think the Stoltz rollers are a smaller diameter than the black rubber cheapies, because the rotton old black one I removed made contact with room to spare. Also, did you buy the cross members from EZ Loader?
Jerry Townsend posted 04-12-2003 12:03 PM ET (US)     Profile for Jerry Townsend  Send Email to Jerry Townsend     
At the time that Kingfish was modifing his trailer, I gave thought to modifing mine as well. I have a 17 OR and a Shorelander trailer with two bunks. I thought that I would add another bunk directly under the keel as opposed to rollers - better (continuous and more uniform) support, a little more resistance to rolling off the trailer, minimal maintenance,

I designed the new bunk and supports and wondered if Shorelander had a similar mod already made up. I discussed the mod with Shorelander people and 1) they did not have a ready made mod, 2) they agreed the under-keel bunk would provide better support and 3)they thought that it was over-kill.

I had planned on making the mod this last year but got slowed down a bit. Still think it is a good idea and will do it. ----- Jerry/Idaho

kglinz posted 04-12-2003 12:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for kglinz  Send Email to kglinz     
EZ loader online catalog has many Keel Rollers and Brackets listed. Maybe this will help.
kingfish posted 04-12-2003 03:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
I see that EZ-Loader has upgraded their website considerably since the last time I needed sometning from them - looks pretty useful-

Andy, I will send you a copy of the bracket drawings, too. The brackets that EZ-Loader advertises look the same to me as the ones that Champion sells. I have a whole s**tpile of those because I ordered enough to do all the rollers I added, but when they arrived I found they were not deep enough to get the rollers to my keel. That's why I designed my own. And yes, I did order the cross members from EZ-Loader. I did it by phone and credit card; it was very simple. I didn't look carefully at their website to see if cross-members could be ordered through there or not. I gave the trailer ID number to the guy I ordered my cross-members from, and he sent me back the entire history of the trailer and the original spec sheet and drawing from which it was made; EZ-Loader is very helpful.

Barry posted 04-12-2003 08:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for Barry  Send Email to Barry     
John, please copy me on your drawings. I'm planning on doing the same to my EZ Loader. Was it not possible to lower your bunks enough to get the brackets to work? Thanks, Barry.
Over the LINE posted 04-12-2003 09:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
My trailer had rollers added before I bought it in a very simple way. Two galvanized angles were welded lenghtwise down the trailer (to the cross members). They are spaced for 8" rollers and have holes drilled every 12" for the roller shafts. Be careful to round the back end of the angle so that it is completely "hidden" by the aft most roller or the sharp corners may "bite" your boat.
kingfish posted 04-12-2003 10:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Will do, Barry-

My EZ-Loader had holes pre-drilled in the main frames for cross-members exactly in the center from top to bottom of the tube section - this is a structural consideration, and if you drill your own holes, that's where they should be too. The crossmember itself has a plate welded into each end with the threaded hole that accepts the hanger bolt also dead center. Short story is that there's no ability to shift the cross-members up or down.

Over the LINE-

At least on my trailer, the bunks were set as low as the bunk brackets would allow them to go; in fact some of the brackets were not adjustable at all. As a consequence, again at least on my trailer, your method would leave me such that I couldn't adjust the height of the keel rollers *or* the bunks once done, and I know just as sure as I'm sitting here that I'd wind up with the rollers either too high or too low with no way to adjust. If I had in the neighborhood of an inch adjustment both ways on my bunks, I'd look very seriously at your solution.

kingfish posted 04-12-2003 10:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Geez, Barry - I guess I'm tired...I misread your post and thought you were asking about lowering the cross-members. I guess I answered your question by mistake, though-
kingfish posted 04-14-2003 10:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for kingfish  Send Email to kingfish     
Owen, Andy and Barry-

You've got mail-


Over the LINE posted 04-14-2003 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
You are right. If you don't have straight cross beams the angle fix will not work. You are also correct that they are not adjustable at all.

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