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Author Topic:   Anchor Set-up for a 15
cod_driver posted 05-11-2003 10:44 PM ET (US)   Profile for cod_driver   Send Email to cod_driver  
Our 15 ft GLS II has small 'cover' (6 inch round plastic piece secured by three screws)in the forward compartment along with the forward drain. We removed the cover only to find it doesn't cover anything except a bit of unfinished gel coat.

Is this spot for an achor attachment point? And if so, does Whaler make anything that fits this? What is the recommended set-up for attaching your anchor and protecting the forward locker gel coat?

Thanks for any advice.

PMUCCIOLO posted 05-11-2003 11:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for PMUCCIOLO    
The round plate you're describing is the cover for the port into which foam is blown when the boat is being built.

The simplest way to protect the gelcoat in the anchor locker is to wrap the anchor, chain, and rope in a large beach towel.

To attach the end of the anchor rode, I use a snap hook made of stainless steel. When I lift the anchor and line out of the locker, I latch that hook onto the bow lifting eye and then deploy the anchor.


where2 posted 05-12-2003 12:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
For as much pounding as the bow of my 15' gives, the inside of the anchor locker is in remarkable shape. The only two knicks in the gelcoat are from the previous owner. I keep the anchor from beating everything up by dipping the tips of the parts likely to damage gelcoat with the rubber tool handle dipping compound sold at Home Depot. In addition to that, I keep 200' of 3/8" line under the anchor to cushion it.

Paul is right about the Stainless Clip on the other end of the rope. Clip and Deploy...

skred posted 05-13-2003 08:35 AM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
About that rubber dip stuff: I decided to completely encase my galvanized Danforth-type anchor with a similar rubber-type coating to protect my bow locker. Now, maybe galvanized metal behaves differently than other stuff, but after one season, most of the coating peeled and/or rubbed off. Never could get it thick enough to really feel it was sufficient protection... Maybe I was using a thinner/different product? If this handle coating stuff really works, let us know what brand, etc. It's a really good idea!
Over the LINE posted 05-13-2003 05:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
Galvanized steel goes through a number of stages of weathering, and may or may not have some chemical contamination from the process. Because of this it can be tricky to paint. You might try "etching" the anchor with a little white vinegar before painting.
Mix about 50% water to vinegar and spray on the anchor. Let it sit for 20 minutes or so, then rinse completely. Let dry and paint.
Good Luck
skred posted 05-14-2003 08:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     

Never thought of "pickling" the metal. Didn't really think it'd make a difference, but I think you're right. The stuff goes on like paint, but it's actually supposed to build up to thick rubbery coating. I now remember my builder telling me that if I wanted to paint my galvanized rain gutters, I should pickle them with vinegar first....

where2 posted 05-14-2003 01:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
Thinking about it more, I am thinking I used 3M 5200 rather than the dipping goo... I know I didn't coat the entire thing, just the round stock, and the end of the shank where the shackle attaches.

Skred is right, getting things to stick to galvanized steel is a problem. The more I think about it, the more amazed I am that Porsche has been galvanizing their body sheet metal for 15 years. It's gotta be difficult to get paint to stick to the zinc...

Maybe I'll ask my buddy that does autobody work what they use on fresh sheet metal. I'm sure someone has an etching primer that works...

Over the LINE posted 05-14-2003 01:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
The vinegar is an old Offshore Fabricator trick. They do make wash primers and other things specifically for painting over galvanized steel, but the vinegar works just fine.

What I do with my sailboat is cover the round bar ends of my danforth with rubber tubing and put some "dry deck" down in the anchor locker. Works pretty well but there is a lot less bouncing.

Over the LINE posted 05-14-2003 01:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for Over the LINE  Send Email to Over the LINE     
...a lot less bouncing than on a 15. (It should have said)
skred posted 05-14-2003 02:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
That rubber tubing idea is brilliant I would've thought of that in - say - another few months... (Gettin' old ain't for sissies, y'know...)
triblet posted 05-14-2003 10:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I covered the ends of the round rods on my
Danforth with some rubber caps, and the sealed
them with hot melt glue lined heat shrink.
And I put a piece of some stuff that came with
my Yakima racks on the inside of the bow


Duckin Whalers posted 05-24-2003 11:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for Duckin Whalers  Send Email to Duckin Whalers     
My brother in law just purchased a rubber coated river type anchor. I think he bought it from cabelas. I know it was pretty inexpensive and it worked well holding his 13' in the Columbia salmon fishing. The rubber seems very durable too.
gschrimp posted 05-24-2003 02:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for gschrimp  Send Email to gschrimp     
The river anchor idea is a good one for owners who don't want to mess up their hull or gel coat.

I have used the 18# variety since I bought the present Whaler in virtully every type of sea condition and bottom structure without ever having had it fail.

This includes anchoring in extremely rocky bottoms, sand, gravel, et al.

Besides being gelcoat friendly another aspect is that it has always been retrievable, even when used in areas that sometimes leave one wondering if it will ever be seen again once it has disappeared beneath the surface.

The only drawback I have found is that my Anchormate, which has a 20# maximum lift capacity, has to work fairly hard to pull it in. This also could be due to the fact that the power loss over about 25 feet of #10 wiring is higher than I had initially anticipated.

All in all though it in my book is the optimal solution.

Duckin Whalers posted 05-26-2003 12:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for Duckin Whalers  Send Email to Duckin Whalers     
Just another added thought, I was at the local Lowes Hardware and I saw rubber coated chain. It was yellow. This might be a nice addition to a rubber coated anchor if your worried about it banging around.

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