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Author Topic:   Boat slides back on trailer
Wet Foot posted 07-09-2003 12:38 PM ET (US)   Profile for Wet Foot   Send Email to Wet Foot  
My 2001 18 Dauntless slides back 6-12 inches on my Shoreland'r bunk trailer when I retrieve the boat. When it's on dry land, I can't crank it in. I need to back into the water, crank it in, pull it out...repeat twice more to get right. My assumption is that I have slack in the winch strap from backing in too far, my dealer says not the case. I thought of replacing the bunk carpet with the slippery vinyl material so I can crank it up on land. Shoreland'r says it does'nt let grit sink below surface as carpet does and will eventually eat up the gelcoat. I mentioned adding keel rollers, Shoreland'r says not recommended as proper weight distribution between bunks and rollers is difficult. Any advice is appreciated.
triblet posted 07-09-2003 12:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Go boating. Leave the trailer in the sun. Come back when the
bunks are dry and give them a good shot of silicone spray.
Go boating for another hour to let the Silicone dry. You
will find it much easier to load your boat.

Backing in too far isn't the problem. I often need only a
couple of feet of winch strap to hook it up.

But your winch strap should be nice and tight and stay that
way. Something's wrong there. Have someone watch the winch
to determine whether the slack is coming from the strap not
being tightly wound, or from the winch slipping.

And your safety chain should be catching the boat before it
more than about four inches.


lhg posted 07-09-2003 01:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Just to not let incorrect information be passed along, somebody at Shorelander doesn't know what they're talking about. It is simple to load the boat's keel weight onto the keel rollers, then snug the bunks up for lateral stability but no weight carrying.
andygere posted 07-09-2003 04:11 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
In addition to Chuck's good advice, try this: Unroll your winch strap all the way when the boat is off the trailer. Have a strong buddy or two hang onto the end of it, pulling hard while you wind the slack onto the spool. Try to get it as tight as possible. My guess is that there is some slop or slack in the roll, but beneath the section that is typically rolled and unrolled to retrieve the boat. This eventually gets cinched up by the weight of the boat givng some slack at the end. In addition, the webbing will stretch just a little when wet, so after you pull up the ramp, check it and tension it a click or two more if needed. Don't overlook the safety chain advice either. I set mine up so there is just enough slack to hook and unhook the chain when the bow is cranked up to the bow stop. You don't want the winch strap to be the only thing that's keeping your Whaler off the pavement.
beaufort posted 07-09-2003 04:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for beaufort  Send Email to beaufort     
My Rolls aluminum trailer dealer sold me black corrigated strips made of some high tech plastic (abs ish) to secure to the tops of my cyprus bunks using stainless screws counter sunk.

I can crank my Montauk all the way snug starting with the boat 4-5 feet away from the bow roller. Makes loading extremely easy.

But be careful when launching! The boat will slip into the water in a hurry! I keep it locked tight until I'm in the boat and reversing off the trailer.

My local boat supply has these strips available so figure they must be an 'industry standard'?!

where2 posted 07-10-2003 07:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for where2  Send Email to where2     
It's an angular attitude thing between the slope of the trailer on the ramp, and the attitude the boat floats at approaching the trailer. As the trailer comes up the ramp, the boat switches from floating to resting on the trailer. As this happens, the bow eye pivots away from the winch stand, leaving a gap.

If you hang out at that launching ramp alot, you should see this problem frequently on this type of trailer.

The solution most people seem to use to avoid this problem is power-loading the boat while the tow vehicle is retrieving the trailer. Some ramps have prohibited this method of loading, so be warned to check before you try it...

Triblet has it right, if your safety chain has not caught the boat in about 4", it's too loose...

Wet Foot posted 07-10-2003 12:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wet Foot  Send Email to Wet Foot     
Thanks Everyone! It sounds like my best option is to shorten safety chain so it's tight when the bow roller is pressed against bow. I wonder if the geometry issues mentioned by Where2 will make it slide back a little anyway. Maybe silicon on the bunks will let me crank it in on land if that happens. When it slides back I have no support under the transom since the trailer was adjusted so the bunks would never protrude beyond back of boat and hit my transducer.
IHG; I think Shoreland'r recommended weight on the bunks because my trailer has only 2 crossmembers, so I would only be able to add 2 (maybe 4 if on both sides of crossmember) keel rollers not nicely located or spaced. I would love to add keel rollers anyway and put 50% of weight on 4 rollers and 50% on bunks, but don't know how to check the actual weight distribution.
dfmcintyre posted 07-11-2003 10:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Along with Chucks suggestion regarding the silicone spray, if you are in the habit of unhooking safety chain and the winch strap prior to going down the ramp.......don't if you've sprayed.

The bunks become _that_ slippery.

Don (in _almost_ BTDT mode)

bsmotril posted 07-12-2003 10:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
What is probably happening is that the ramp is too steep, or you have the dtrailer backed in too far. The stern floats a few inches over the bunks, and the bow stop makes contact. When you pull out, the stern settles and the bow is no longer resting on the bow chock. You can try not backing in so far and wither poer loading while someone cranks, or just crank alone. Or, pull out just enough for the stern to settle on the bunks, stop, and try cranking up while the boat is still partially in the water to take some of the weight off the bunks.
bsmotril posted 07-12-2003 10:23 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
Sorry for the phat phingers. Should say ""Try powerloading while someone else cranks with the trailer not backed in so deep."
triblet posted 07-13-2003 11:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Don McIntyre is right about the silicone spray making the
boat slide on the ramp. The first time I launched after
using silicone spray, I unhooked the winch strap but not
safety chain. When I stopped just short of the water to
organize the dock lines, there was a THUNK and the boat was
at the end of the safety chain.


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