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  Which Continental trailer for 18OR

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Author Topic:   Which Continental trailer for 18OR
grizzly posted 08-05-2003 01:41 PM ET (US)   Profile for grizzly  
I need a new trailer for my newly acquired '86 Outrage 18. Continental makes the right style of keel roller trailer.

I phoned Continental today and spoke to a guy named "Laz" who told me I should consider either model CWV9, which is a tilt model, single axle, no brakes, 2800 lb. capacity, or model EW18V, which he says is the same trailer in a non-tilt version.

Does anyone know if these are the right models for my boat?

What are the pros and cons of tilt vs. non-tilt?

TIA.

ShrimpBurrito posted 08-05-2003 02:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for ShrimpBurrito  Send Email to ShrimpBurrito     
A tilt-trailer will allow you to launch in shallower water, or even your driveway for that matter. It can come in handy.
Peter posted 08-05-2003 02:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
Get the tilt. It helps make up for a lot of poorly designed boat ramps.
lhg posted 08-05-2003 05:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
As a fan and owner of a Continental keel roller trailer, "LAZ" gave you the right information on the CWV9. It can be equipped with 9 keel rollers, 2 each (12" wide) on each of the cross members and 1 (8" wide) on the front cross member.

A few recommendations: The trailer comes with a 3" x 3" tongue member. I STRONGLY recommend you have them upgrade this to a 3" x 4" tongue beam. It will be a lot stronger and deflect less. Since the trailer is a touch long for an 18' boat, I would also have them shorten the tongue by 12".
None of this should cost much extra. This trailer, in dual axle version, would also handle a 20 Outrage, so it's longer than you need.

Galvanized steel (not aluminum) guide-ons, with a slip-over 2" dia PVC tube are recommended. If Continental does not have them in galvanized steel version, you can get them aftermarket from Tie Down Engineering for about $60.

Ask them about the type of axle they can install, either the Spindle-Lube type or conventional, that uses Bearing Buddies. Request the type you want. If you THINK you may want to upgrade to brakes at a later date, get an axle with the brake flanges welded on. Otherwise, brakes will require a new axle.

Final upgrade, if offered, should be Goodyear Marathon radial tires.

This trailer is 93" overall in width. You'll be very happy with it.

RCS posted 08-05-2003 10:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for RCS  Send Email to RCS     
I recently bought a Continental ETW20V for a 20' OR. Nice trailer and am happy with it overall but in hindsight if I had to do it again I would get the tilt version equivalent. It would be just a tad narrower frame and fit the boat just a little better. If you'll notice, the EW18V is about 6" wider than the CWV9. You do not need that extra width in my opinion for that boat. on mine, the frame is so wide, the guide ons are about 4" away from the gunnels when they are pulled in to the minimum width. I have not come up with a way to deal with that yet. I will admit I had a learning disability when it came to loading the boat on a keel roller trailer but I now have the hang of it and it's fine. Loading is more of a two man operation than a bunk trailer however. At least for me it is.
grizzly posted 08-05-2003 10:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for grizzly    
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful info.

I will go for double Stolz rollers and if possible the other mods LHG suggested.

I have never owned a tilt trailer. With a tilt trailer, will it be possible to launch the boat off a ramp without immersing the trailer wheel bearings? Does it depend on the slope of the ramp?

My other whaler (a 13) can only be launched on a ramp off its (non-tilt) trailer with the wheel hubs immersed. After even one launching in salt water I have to pull apart and regrease the bearings to avoid corrosion. It has conventional trailer bearings, no bearing buddies.

Would this problem be eliminated or reduced with a spindle lube type axle? My sailboat trailer has this type of axle, so I am familiar with how it works. Ironically, the sailboat is always crane launched so the axles on its trailer never get wet!

Peter posted 08-05-2003 10:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
Q: With a tilt trailer, will it be possible to launch the boat off a ramp without immersing the trailer wheel bearings?

A: Yes.

Q: Does it depend on the slope of the ramp?

A: Yes.

lhg posted 08-06-2003 03:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
The key to easy launching and retrieval with a keel roller setup, is that the boat rolls freely on the rollers, with little friction from the side stabilizing bunks. The SS roller shafts really help in this regard.

Although my trailer for the 18 Outrage tilts, I rarely need to tilt it on retrieval, and never on launching. Both my 25 and 18 can be launched or retreived with the rear roller just at the water surface. Unhooking the winch strap allows them to roll right down into the water. I usually start the engines first, so exhaust pressure will prevent water from being forced up into the cylinders as the boat rolls backward.

RCS is correct in that you do want too wide of a trailer for a Classic Outrage. 8'-0" at most. The trailer under my 18 Outrage is 6'-8" overall and seems perfect, but nowadays, it's hard to find them that size. I had to get one that width to get it into my garage. As mentioned, the vertical guide-on's can be a problem with an 8'6" wide trailer.

Grizzley, you might ask Continental if they can still make you a CV9 trailer (shown in their older catalogs), which has a 59" wide frame and is 78" overall. If not, I'm sure the CWV9 will be OK, which has a 72" wide frame and is 94" overall. The vertical guide-ons should work on either, but will be close on the wider one.

The trailer RCS has is shown to have a 78" wide frame, 100" overall.

lhg posted 08-06-2003 03:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
One last note on the roller installations. You want FOUR 1/2" bolts to hold the double roller pans to the cross members. Continental only furnishes two, through holes in the cross members, which I think is inadequate. Raise the rollers up high enough so that the vertical slots are above the frame, so you can then add another set of bolts resting across the top of the frame. This will hold the roller frames absolutely tight and unable to deflect (separate) under load, and make it impossible for them to settle down. Bottom two bolts still go through the frame holes.

Determine the straight line length of the boat keel, then set the front and rear rollers on the straight portion of hull, then stretch string between them to adjust all the others perfectly level. The first bow roller, as hull curves up, is a trial and error proposition.

Bunks should be adjusted last, and only tapped up into position to stabilize hull, true and level on the trailer.

Proper adjustment of boat on trailer is what makes or breaks your happiness in launching a Whaler! I have seen so many not done properly.

vkr posted 09-23-2003 12:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for vkr  Send Email to vkr     
Sorry to dig up an old issue, but does Continental Trailer have a website? I would like to see what they have to offer in the way of trailers. In addition, what does the CWV9 roughly sell for? Is there a version of the CWV9 with brakes?
lhg posted 09-23-2003 04:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Continental does have a website, which can be searched out. I believe their basic single axle, 2800# capacity, galv trailer for the 18 Outrage is about $1100., but don't hold me to this! SS disc brakes add about $400. Expect to spend some additional money to upgrade the # of roller assemblies.
vkr posted 09-23-2003 05:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for vkr  Send Email to vkr     
Thanks, I found the website shortly after my post. Imagine this, www.continentaltrailers.com (surprise) : )
Thanks for the ballpark price estimates.

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