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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Cannot get up on plane
|Author||Topic: Cannot get up on plane|
posted 08-14-2003 12:47 AM ET (US)
Hi again guys,
On my last boat ride I was unable to get my 2001 Dauntless 18 on plane. My 2001 Mercury 125 HP was going 3750 RPM and would not level off and plane. I sat my wife and children (280lbs) on the bow seat, but it did'nt help. I was going around 3-4 MPH with a low riding transom. The water was choppy, but everyone else was flying by me. I had the trim all the way in. The engine is bolted to the transom through the center mounting hole. The engine sounds fine except for missing in neutral, when I am idling with the accelerator advanced for cold start. The missing goes away when I bring the accelerator straight up. I have not had this problem before. My dealer says it is probably not using all 4 cylinders. My dealer was aware that trim tabs are common on this boat, and that the engine goes from 2 to 4 cylinders. My worry is that this boat/motor is a poor combination. The dealer says it is not so poor that it wont plane at all. I recently bought the boat and have only used it 4 times. Your opinions are appreciated!
posted 08-14-2003 01:00 AM ET (US)
The engine needs to be serviced. Not long ago I rode in a new BW 19' Nantucket with the 115HP version of that engine. Boat would do about 42. So you've got plenty of power.
Could be a bad stator.
posted 08-14-2003 07:17 AM ET (US)
It has to be the motor as pointed out above. My 18 dauntless is hard to plane with the 135 opti. It will get on plane with no problems but it works very hard doing it. Once on plane it is great but falls off plane at about
18+- Mph. Tabs are on my wish list, but I can live without them.
posted 08-14-2003 08:04 AM ET (US)
Do you think that you may have spun a hub on the prop? If the motor is spinning at 3750 RPMs and yet the boat is moving at 3-4 mph I'd certainly take a look at it.
posted 08-14-2003 12:46 PM ET (US)
Above suggestion also makes sense, if RPM is as you say. It's the only way that could happen. But engine should not miss, and also may need work.
I'm guessing an aluminum prop. I'm also guessing that previous owner, or yourself, has DRIVEN the boat up on the trailer. All bunk trailer, right? Fastest way in the world to shear a rubber hub, especially with an aluminum prop. Since aluminum props can't be properly re-hubbed, I would get a Mercury SS Vengeance for it.
posted 08-14-2003 04:07 PM ET (US)
Sounds like a spun prop if your speed is really that slow and your rpms are that high. If your speed is a little better, try using an engine tuner product (with a decarbonizer). Also, try changing your plugs and doing a general mechanical tuneup.
As for the "hard to plane" crew...I reinstalled a Stingray on my (sorry about this) Classic 18 and my brother installed one on his '94 Outrage 17. With the engines trimmed all the way in, we both experience very little bow rise when coming onto plane. Actually, it feels like the boat just pops onto plane. He said the same about his boat. We both can maintain plane at slower speeds than before too. Try one out (or any brand). I don't think you'll be disappointed.
posted 08-16-2003 04:08 PM ET (US)
I'd rule out a spun prop, it would rev to 7,000 rpms & you wouldn't go anywhere.
When you spin a prop the prop normally allows you to idle or high idle but nothing doing after that, just like being in neutral, the shaft will spin but no connection to the prop.
|Jamie 20 outrage||
posted 08-16-2003 04:44 PM ET (US)
Sals right, no spun prop. After you fix the missing cylinder, could be as simple as a bad spark plug. make sure your rpms with an average load are really close to the max for that engine. The engine will perform better and last longer.
posted 08-16-2003 07:56 PM ET (US)
I'm surprised no one mentioned the obvious- did you check to see if you had a fouled spark plug or 2?
PS- Agree with Tom 2697 100%- the Stingray improved the performance markedly on my OR18. A friend just put one on his new Hydrasport and it was also like night & day.
posted 08-17-2003 05:17 PM ET (US)
I'm taking it back to the dealer this week and will let you know what they find. I like the idea of a stainless prop but am at the transom weight limit already with my kicker...getting water backup through scuppers.
posted 08-17-2003 08:02 PM ET (US)
Before you consider a stainless prop- think about this. If you hit something hard with that stainless prop, chances are great that you're replacing gears and shafts in the lower unit- watched someone towed in last week who did just that to one of those highly polished stainless props- wouldn't wanna see the bill for that repair. Is the extra 3 or 4 mph worth the extra cost and potential for greater damage?
At least with aluminum, you have some give if you whack something. Before buying stainless, determine where you'll be operating and your familiarity with the area.
posted 08-18-2003 02:45 PM ET (US)
Don't believe the Stainless hype. If you hit something hard enough to break gears, it does not matter what the prop was made of.
posted 08-18-2003 03:40 PM ET (US)
In regards to props, I agree with Bigshot. And on another point, I had to replace 2 aluminum props because of running into coral reef at slow speeds. The blades really got chewed up. Now that I have a stainless prop, it chews up coral reef with no damage to prop.
posted 08-18-2003 04:38 PM ET (US)
You might not want to tell people that.....HUGE fine.
posted 08-18-2003 05:21 PM ET (US)
I try to avoid the reef whenever I can but it is everywhere here. Never heard of anyone being fined for hitting coral. The DNR guys tend to look the other way. You should see the props on their boats!
posted 08-22-2003 01:27 PM ET (US)
My dealer says he discovered that my planing problem was caused by a loose lock-down nut that changed my set-up. They needed to re-link and sync my carbs. I hope they're right!
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