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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Trailer Setup on New Montauk 170
|Author||Topic: Trailer Setup on New Montauk 170|
posted 08-25-2003 01:17 PM ET (US)
I am thinking of upgrading from an 88 Montauk 17 to a 2004 Montauk 170. I went to the dealer this weekend and I was looking at the winch on the trailer it was rated at 1500lbs.
I would think that seeing the new whaler weighs in at a little over 2000lbs they would put a winch that is rated for at a minimum of the weight of the boat? Anyone have any ideas or opinions on the subject? The dealer did not know.
posted 08-25-2003 05:53 PM ET (US)
Boat is 1400 lbs; 2stroke is 303 lbs.
posted 08-25-2003 06:10 PM ET (US)
The rule of thumb on this is that the winch be rated for at least 1/2 the combined weight of the boat, motor(s) and gear.
This works unless you decide to lift the boat up the side of a perfectly vertical cliff ;)
posted 08-25-2003 08:07 PM ET (US)
That clears things up. I was not sure I figured someone on the form would know. Thanks
posted 08-25-2003 10:57 PM ET (US)
My friend just bought a brand new Montauk 17 with a trailer. His trailer is all bunks with no rollers. So, his winch is worthless. Take a good look at the trailer you are getting with the boat. If you want a rollon trailer, make sure that is what you are getting.
posted 08-26-2003 09:35 AM ET (US)
Most people who have the Montauk 170 with the factory trailer DRIVE THE BOAT on to the trailer. The trailer should be submerged with the top of the fenders out of the water. This works well and I have no problems with the bunks. My only suggestion is that if you launch the boat in a river where there is a current, buy the guide post kit for around $60. This will keep the boat in line and won't allow the stern to swing out.
posted 08-26-2003 12:10 PM ET (US)
Check the bunk alignment too. The bunks on our new setup aren't centered on the trailer. The boat is off to one side, over the fender on one side, but not the other. This puts excess load on one tire and the boat doesn't want to line up with the winch and bow roller.
posted 08-26-2003 07:41 PM ET (US)
MOE, your dealer should help you on this, it should have been set up properly from the factory, but since it wasn`t ask the dealer to help you rectify the bunk problem. I think I know who your dealer is, I beleive they will help you out :) Jack.
posted 08-26-2003 08:26 PM ET (US)
My bunks are so well adjusted that all I have to do is get about three feet past the trailer rear and the bunks self center my Montauk 170.
WRon - no roller trailers on Whalers per BW; rollers on the keel are permissable.
posted 08-26-2003 11:02 PM ET (US)
When I said a "rollon" trailer, I was referring to a trailer which has keel rollers to support the boat and bunks to keep the boat from rocking side-to-side. I agree completely that a whaler should not be put on a "roller" trailer.
I don't sink my trailer and so, the right winch makes a huge difference in how easy it is for me to load the boat. Bugsy mentioned that the trailer he saw had a winch on it that seemed to small. I have watched people use the float-on trailers and the winch is never used to do any more than just cinch the boat up to the bow stop. With this in mind, if bugsy was looking at an all bunk trailer, the winch was probably correctly sized. But, if the trailer was one with keel rollers, the winch might be undersized.
posted 08-27-2003 07:24 AM ET (US)
Sinking the trailer as Tabasco suggests is the correct method of launching a trailered boat. When launching, the boat should be just slightly floating so that a light shove at the bow or application of reverse power sends her lightly off the trailer. Retrieve is just the reverse. This applies to all types trailers whether they are roller, bunk or a hybrid.
You say you are not sinking your trailer. In a retrieve how far onto the trailer do you bring the boat before using the winch? If you are nosing the boat up on the first roller and then horsing the boat onto to the trailer with the winch, you are probably putting much more strain on the trailer, winch and your bow eye than they were designed and rated for.
I wish I had a nickel for every time I heard someone say "Hmmmm wonder how my bow eye got bent?"
posted 08-27-2003 08:51 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the input. I think the trailer has keel rollers and bunks on the side. Much nicer than the set up I have on my current whaler.
posted 08-27-2003 08:56 AM ET (US)
One more question I have noticed people in the forum talking about all bunk trailer versus one with keel rollers. Does anyone have an opinion about which one is better. Or the Pros and Cons of each one.
posted 08-27-2003 10:11 PM ET (US)
I always back the trailer down to the water until the rear roller is just above the water level. Then, I connect the strap and winch the boat onto the trailer. The whaler dealer set my trailer winch up so that as the boat is winched onto the trailer, the strap runs parallel, in height, to the trailer bed. My first trailer was setup this way and when it rusted away, I had the new trailer setup identically. I have been using this setup for 23 years now with the same boat and I have never had a problem with bending the bow eye, nor have I bent any roller shafts or other trailer components.
I agree with you on one point. "All bunk" trailers are indeed designed to be sunk so that the boat can be floated onto the trailer. On the other hand, keel roller trailers have been around since the dawn of boat trailering and in the early 70s, people would have looked at you funny if you sank a keel roller trailer. Keel roller trailers do not need to be sunk unless you are in a situation where the slope of the boat ramp creates some loading angle issues. I have noticed other comments here about the shallow angle of boat ramps at the Great Lakes. Here on the East Coast, we have more of a problem with ramps being so steep that sometimes we can't pull the truck back up the ramp after loading the boat.
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