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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Preventative carb work
|Author||Topic: Preventative carb work|
posted 01-19-2004 03:38 PM ET (US)
My 1982 Evinrude 90 runs great now that I have overhauled it. I have not done anything with the carbs and was wondering if there is any recommended routine work on carbs specified? I couldn't find anyting in the Clymer manual.
Or should I let a sleeping dog lie...
posted 01-19-2004 04:06 PM ET (US)
Preventing carb troubles is a full time thing.
Fuel lines and fittings checked for leaks and restrictions regularly.
Water seperating filter in fuel line. Drain water and crud regularly.
STABIL or other fuel stabilizer in the fuel in the tank, lines and carbs for short-term storage. Drain carb bowls for winter or long-term storage.
If there is oil injection, oil tank and lines inspected regularly; tank drained and cleaned annually.
The above will prevent 80% of carb problems.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 01-20-2004 06:49 AM ET (US)
If overhaul means you rebuilt the engine, then you should atleast rebuild the carb that feed the 'bad' cylinder.
posted 01-20-2004 07:58 PM ET (US)
Yes, cape, I did rebuild the engine. But the bad cylinder was from overheating, not from a lean carb.
Good advice, though.
posted 01-20-2004 08:57 PM ET (US)
does your engine have plastic carb bowls? if so change to the new metal ones.
omc had a recall on the plastic bowls on v-4
posted 01-20-2004 10:08 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Frank, I didn't know that.
If they're plastic, I'll replace them.
posted 01-22-2004 11:56 AM ET (US)
Hey, mine are plastic! No kidding they had a recall?
Do the new ones include a complete carb, not just the bowl? Don't see what good a metal bowl alone would do as the whole thing is plastic and fuel would eat the rest of it up as well.
posted 01-22-2004 04:05 PM ET (US)
I did a test years ago....
One carb was run out of gas and the other had it left in. No presevative added.
After a long winter (Oct to April) I took both carbs apart.
The one that was run dry had gum/varnish like stuff and the one that wasn't still had what looked like OK gas in it.
I believe what happens is that the one that is run "out" doesn't really run "dry" and what remains deteriorates quicker.
posted 01-23-2004 11:33 AM ET (US)
Depends on how many years ago. Todays gas is crap and goes bad in weeks, not months.
Greg....have them rebuilt if you are not sure. A lean carb will detonate a piston and you will swear it was from overheating....it was being lack of oil. Make sure those carbs are factory fresh or you will be doing it again. I just went down that road.
Every fall I decarbonize and every 30 hours or so I run a 6 gallon tank with a pint of techron in it through the engine just to keep things clean. Don't run the 6 gallon empty the first day, you want the carbs to sit overnight with techron in them and then run the rest of the tank dry the next day.
posted 01-23-2004 07:42 PM ET (US)
Lean means HOT. Not just not enough oil, but just plain hot.
I think the hot far outweighs the lack of oil (4-strokes
burn pistons when they run lean, and they are getting full
oil.) If I burned a piston, I'd sure go through the carbs.
posted 01-23-2004 10:30 PM ET (US)
Run your motors regularly! I can't stress this enough. Run them in the winter, spring, summer and fall. At least once a month. 2 stroke engines need to be ran. It helps the carbs gaskets and fuel lines. It helps the rings and reed plates. Fresh gas and fresh oil and heat helps eliminate moisture throughout. It also prolongs battery life. The 2 stroke engines' main enemy is sitting up.
posted 01-23-2004 10:57 PM ET (US)
Detonation or burned pistons are also caused by hot plugs. Use the mfg reccommended plugs on your motor. If your running Yamaha or suzuki use the recommended NGK plug.
In line Mercurys are famous for burning top #1 piston, but thats oil related.
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