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Author Topic:   1992 Outrage 19 Leans to Port
TDavison posted 03-21-2004 08:49 PM ET (US)   Profile for TDavison   Send Email to TDavison  
I am [considering purchasing] a 1992 OUTRAGE 19 with a Yamaha 150 two-stroke. When the boat is on plane, it leans to the port side. It doesn't seem to pull to either side, it just leans. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Buckda posted 03-21-2004 08:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
What did the seller say about it?

You should be able to correct this problem by adjusting the trim tab (the little fin that hangs down from the cavitation plate behind the propeller) on your motor.

The other option is to move weight aboard the boat to compensate (moving the batteries, or simply adjusting the people on board "sit over there please!".

Whalers tend to lean into a crosswind, so take that into consideration.

Also - you said on plane - but does it happen only at WOT, or at any speed on-plane?

For me, such a lean would not be a dealbreaker on the package - I think you can get rid of it for the most part by dialing the package in completely.

Also see:


rtk posted 03-22-2004 06:44 AM ET (US)     Profile for rtk  Send Email to rtk     

I have a 1997 21' Outrage and it does the same thing. I have hydraulic trim tabs that level the boat. I wouldn't run this boat without them- a list to port or starboard while running and not being able to do anything about it would drive me nuts.


jimh posted 03-22-2004 09:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The classic-hulled Boston Whaler boats have quite a tendency to lean into the wind, and this is aggravated if you have any canvas up
rtk posted 03-22-2004 10:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for rtk  Send Email to rtk     
Yes Jim, my post classic 1997 21' Outrage does exactly that, lean into the wind. I have the hard top t-top with an enclosure and when the wind is off my port side it leans significantly. I cannot remember if the same thing happens when the wind is to starboard. Trim tabs are the only way I can see correcting this because the "lean" or list is fairly significant. It would take alot of weight shifting to level the boat out.


Moe posted 03-22-2004 11:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
If the prop is turning clockwise, when viewed from the stern, the boat will be turning (leaning) counterclockwise.

TDavison posted 03-22-2004 11:17 AM ET (US)     Profile for TDavison  Send Email to TDavison     
I appreciate all the input. The boat currently does not have any hydraulic trim tabs and I am sure that will correct the problem. However, before "Masking" the problem with trim tabs, I would like to know the cause of the problem. I will work with the owner and adjust the trim tab on the motor and see if that corrects the problem.

Also, after reading the article about proper trailers, I realized the trailer for this boat does not support the boat by the keel. Could this have an impact on the hull?

Buckda posted 03-22-2004 01:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
I think the general question about an improper trailer goes a bit like this:

First, what type of trailer does it have (bunk, all roller, etc.)?

This is important, as an all-roller trailer is the worst in terms of potential points for delam problems.

Second, how is the boat/trailer used?

If it is towed extensively, with an all roller trailer, I'd inspect the hull carefully.

If it is simply "living" on the trailer in the guys garage and towed 10 miles to a ramp and used on the weekends, I wouldn't be as concerned.

The next question is: Do I need a new trailer? The answer to that is partly how you will use the boat...if you're trailering it all over creation, an investment in the most appropriate trailer is a sound decision. If you've got an all roller trailer, a new trailer would be one of my first purchases...if it's a bunk trailer (float-on style) and you're not trailering extensively, a new trailer would be a "nice to have" but should not be a dealbreaker.

In any event, if you have time, you should "re-load" the hull at the ramp so as to position it so you can examine the hull where the rollers/bunks make contact. Follow the tips found elsewhere on this site to inspect for delamination problems (plastic hammer) and take a good look (if it does not have bottom paint) for waviness and other signs of potential problems.

If this guy has the boat priced right, don't wait around too long...someone else WILL buy it out from under you if you're wavering, and the boat is in good shape.

Also - My information before about the trim tab on the engine was incorrect. That piece of hardware exists to eliminate the prop torque feedback in the will not affect the hull listing to one side or the other.

Hope that helps.


Tom W Clark posted 03-22-2004 10:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

The list to port you describe is perfectly normal. Do not worry about it. It is caused by propellor torque and I have described how this happens in more than one thread on this forum.

Here are a couple:

jimh posted 03-23-2004 12:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Originally posted to the POST-Classic forum where there initially was ambiguity about the boat's model year and horsepower rating, as well as a momentary reversal in the galactic X-axis (left-right) direction arrow. After certain bleeding wounds in the moderator's foot were sutured, the article was moved here.]
jimh posted 03-23-2004 01:07 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Another comment: that boat is rated for a maximum of 150-HP and you are nicely set up with a Yamaha 150 on it.
outragesteve posted 03-23-2004 03:50 AM ET (US)     Profile for outragesteve  Send Email to outragesteve     
A friend of mine just bought a used 20' Outrage (w/WhalerDrive) powered by a 225 Optimax. We took it out for a ride, and it leaned to port so bad that putting all 3 of us on the starboard side barely corrected the list. We put it back on the trailer and I found the main reason: It was rigged with a 30' (xxl) shaft engine! The lower unit/prop were buried! I just ordered a shortened drive shaft (lucky it's the Merc 2 piece shaft so you don't have to take apart the drive to swap out the whole drive shaft). I'll cut and weld the shift shaft, and the water tube will be cut 5" also. It's a very easy conversion, and then I'll play with props and engine height to try and get the "prop torque lean" down to a minimum. My friend was wondering why the engine was turning 5400 rpm and we were only doing about 38 about being efficient...NOT!

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