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Battery Recommendations for 225-HP Outboard
|Author||Topic: Battery Recommendations for 225-HP Outboard|
posted 05-05-2004 08:51 AM ET (US)
Time to launch, but I have no juice. 1990 Outrage 22' w/225 Yamaha Saltwater Series II, not too much for electronics. Single battery in center console. Battery finally died. I want to replace with a strong/powerful(?) one. Any recommendations on type, brand and size? Thanks.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 05-05-2004 11:51 AM ET (US)
Get a group 24 dual purpose battery form West Marine or the equivalent from Wal Mart.
posted 05-05-2004 08:26 PM ET (US)
I vote for an Interstate SRM-24 deep cycle/starting battery.
I have sold and used Interstate batteries for years with no problems. Besides, they support NASCAR.
posted 05-06-2004 10:59 AM ET (US)
This is just my opinion.
If I only ran 1 battery, it would be a group 27.
My engine requires a pair of group 27s with minimum of 675 cca.
Your 225 hp requires alot more juice than a 50 hp to get her to run.
If you fish off shore, you really should concider dual batteries.
Alot of people say they don't have room for dual batteries, ......well, if you ever get stuck just 1 time, it's amazing how fast you find the room for that second battery.
posted 05-07-2004 07:10 AM ET (US)
Sal: You have persuaded me to cut and enlarge my console floor opening in order to install a larger, group 27 battery. Your posting refers to minimum CCA specs, but the West Marine catalog only provides MCA specs for the partiular low-end (not AGM) dual purpose battery that I am considering (good Mother's Day gift, huh?). I assume 745 MCA might be the equivalent of about 600 CCA. Is that sufficient? Thanks for input everyone.
posted 05-07-2004 07:49 AM ET (US)
The difference in ratings for Cold Cranking Amperes (CCA) and Marine Cranking Amperes (MCA) is the temperature of the battery ambient. Not too many recreational boaters are trying to start their engines at the CCA temperature (32-degrees F).
posted 05-07-2004 09:40 AM ET (US)
My mistake, my engine requires dual group 29s, not 27s.
I've had my engine not start with a low battery, even though it turned over as if the battery wasen't low, it just didn't spin it fast enough, as soon as I switched to the fully charged battery, she fired in 1/4 of a rev on the flywheel.
Had I not had dual batteries in that situation, I would have been in for an 18 mile run home on my 15 hp kicker.
Just food for thought.
posted 05-07-2004 06:07 PM ET (US)
How come BW never made their famous tan battery boxes for anything larger than a group 24 size battery?
My Merc 200 EFI's, with 40 amp charging, run beautifully on the batteries that Tom and Dick have recommended.
What am I missing here? It seems to me for starting, what you need is a good charge in the battery, not a larger battery. Once running, the engine generates it's own current. A good group 24 will start anything from a 15 to a 300.
A V-6 can also be pull started if necessary. I tried doing this on my 200 EFI's and it's amazingly easy, with the factory supplied emergency pull-cord under the engine cowling.
posted 05-07-2004 07:43 PM ET (US)
LHG, I agree, 12 volts is 12 volts no matter how big the battery is, but then again, why do I have 3....8-D batteries [ over 100 lbs each ]on my diesel engine in the Alaska boat?
Once the engine is running, she produces her own juice, but if you shut her off & your vhf, sonar, stereo, bilge pumps, live bait pumps are on, they can & will kill a battery far faster than one might realize.
The bigger the battery, the heavier she is & the more juice she holds, which means more reserve juice than a smaller battery.
Granted it only takes about 1/2 of a turn of the flywheel to fire these new engines, but many people have far more things drawing juice then just starting the engine.
I'm a firm believer of a backup battery, maybe because of my commerial fishing back ground, & the Bering Sea does not forgive anyones mistakes & a dead or to low of a battery up there could mean the end of your life, the same goes right here on the Pacific ocean.
posted 05-07-2004 08:39 PM ET (US)
Sal, certainly your comments makes sense for those rugged offshore conditions that you describe, or even when electric trolling motors are used. Nor do I think the "marine starting only" batteries should be used unless the boating is extremely simply, with no electronic gear. I was just thinking that for most recreational & fishing/cruising Whalers, and with today's engine's high output alternators, the size 24 combo starting/deep cycle battery seems like it would be large enough, and not be drawn down, and quickly recharged when running. They always have been for me. Many of the new DFI/EFI engines now have 60 amp alternators on them.
posted 05-17-2004 08:05 AM ET (US)
I have a 1989 22' Outrage - Been thru a whole lot of batteries! My favorite, longest lasting, and most expensive is the WestMarine deep cycle "aircraft" battery. I've had it several years, no problems at all. I also have a West Marine gel cell for starting, it too is good. Skip the cheap batteries and the "unsealed", they do not last long. If you go anywhere that you would not want to be stuck, then move your battery to the rear well and get a second battery(both in battery boxes), a battery switch, and good cable. You will find it much more relaxing when you turn the switch, knowing it will start. PS - Reserve amps is what you need to look at. This determines how much energy is stored in the battery.
posted 05-17-2004 08:09 AM ET (US)
I have a 225 Yamaha Saltwater series II 1999. This motor has dual battery charging so that you do not have to fool with the battery switch to charge both batteries - Very nice!
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