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Synthetic oil or not, 4-stroke
|Author||Topic: Synthetic oil or not, 4-stroke|
posted 05-13-2004 09:56 AM ET (US)
I have a 2001 70 hp Evinrude 4-stroke made by Suzuki.
When I had it installed the mechanic who installed it put in Evinrude/Johnson Synthetic Blend 4-Stroke motor oil. Which is what is recommended by the manual.
I had him purchase enough so I could do the 20 hour oil change which I have done.
So, I go to my local (near by) Suzuki dealer to get oil for my 100 hour change and he does not have synthetic blend, only the Suzuki 10w 40 4-Stroke oil. Now the back of the bottle does say synthetic polymers, but otherwise no reference to synthetics.
Question - Do I have to use a synthetic since I started with synthetic?
Any consequences not using synthetics?
It is still under warranty.
p.s. I did a search on this site and there is not talk of this subject.
posted 05-13-2004 10:27 AM ET (US)
The owners manual probably has some words about API-something.
Use a good name brand oil that meets that API-something
in the right grade (10W 40, it sounds like), and change it
posted 05-13-2004 02:33 PM ET (US)
I broke my 2001 DF70 in with Suzuki oil.
Since break-in I have used only Mobil 1 10W40. I recommend it. Buy it at Wal Mart for half what a marina would charge.
Red sky at night. . .
posted 05-14-2004 10:57 AM ET (US)
I use Mobil 1 as well(blend is a joke) and I buy Suzuki Samurai oil filters for $2.99 as well. Stay away from the dealer.....far far away!
posted 05-16-2004 06:16 AM ET (US)
With oil, you have many, many, options depending on what type of motor you have i.e. standard 2-stroke, DFI, 4-stroke, etc. To make sure we don't get this thread going in all directions (and for clarity), you have a 4-stroke so lets just address oil in them here for now. You can go with any number of quality 10W30/10W40/20W50 standard motor oils. The weight you choose depends on the lowest and highest expected air temperature you will be operating in just like a car.
I agree with all who have recommended the Mobile 1 full synthetic oil, it is top-shelf quality, one of the best on the market, and will not harm your motor. If you want to save a few bucks, you can "treat" your engine with products such as "SLICK 50" or other quality teflon additives on the market and then just run standard (non-synthetic) oil. The metal parts have been treated and the teflon has bonded to them (when you use Slick 50) so the added expense of continuing to use synthetic oils after treatment is really not warranted.
Bigshot, on using other than the factory-recommended filters like you do.....I acknowledge this works and is a much cheaper alternative, and have even done it myself. One word of caution though when doing this. You need to know that the non-standard filter you have chosen is very close (or matches) the PSI rating for the by-pass of the factory-recommended filter. As you might know, Oil filters are designed to by-pass the filtering elements when they clog (to ensure the motor still gets oil when the filter gets really dirty).
I acknowledge that if you change the filter at every oil change and your motor is in good operating condition, the risk is minimal. That said, a few years ago when I was still riding motorcycles, I had a friend who ruined the motor on his $18K Harley Davidson. Harley recommends only Harley brand oil filters which cost 5-6 times more than car filters. Like many riders have done, he opted to use a car filter of the same size and thread pattern (which he bought for about $3.00). The by-pass on this car filter was designed to operate at a higer pressure rating than the motorcycle filter. In short, his engine starved for oil and locked up.....the bike was still under warranty but the factory would not replace the engine due to the wrong oil filter being used. The local dealership ascertained the exact damage to the motor when they disassembled it. They determined that there was no foreign material in the sump and the oil pump was working at factory specs. All the scorring on the cylinder walls, pistons, and valve train (along with that installed orange FRAM filter) told them all they cared to hear.
I think we can all get away with using "other" filters most of the time, just be aware that there CAN be issues with this depending on what motor we are talking about.
posted 05-16-2004 08:36 AM ET (US)
There are over 90 articles in the web site which contain both "synthetic" and "oil" in their text. It may be that at the moment you conducted your search the HTDIG search software was not functioning correctly. There was a brief period when results of searches were not especially thorough investigations of the 700-MBytes of text content on the web site.
I don't know if any of those articles in the archive address your specific question regarding the creation of a dependency for using synthetic oil if synthetic oil is initially used in an engine. I have heard of such recommendations, but I do not know if they are motivated by good engineering or by good marketing.
posted 05-18-2004 10:31 AM ET (US)
Ponieważ masz silnik Evinrude 70PS made by Suzuki, a ja poszukuję jakiejkolwiek instrukcji do silnika Suzuki DF50, prosze Cię o pomoc. Prawdopodobnie silniki te są identycznie zbudowane, a przynajmniej identycznie wyposażone w czujniki i wyświetlają identyczne alarmy.
Proszę Cię o informację co oznacza alam gdy miga lampka oleju oraz piszczy buzze r w manetce w rytmie- 2 dzwięki, przerwa. Prawdopodobnie jest to znak że cos nie jest w porzadku z czujnikiem CTP ( wolne obroty) ale pewnosci nie mam.
posted 05-18-2004 10:47 AM ET (US)
FYI....The 60 & 70hp Suzuki/Evinrude/Johnson 4 stroke is a 1.3L Suzuki Samurai engine that was marineized and mounted on an outboard. I can't see how filters would differ, hence why I use one. I buy the $8 filters for both my Kawasaki motorcycle and my Harley(when I owned it). I would NEVER use a filter form something else....I would not even use a Yamaha filter on my Suzuki even if they looked alike.
posted 05-18-2004 12:19 PM ET (US)
I change the oil in my cars religiously every 3,000 miles, and when I get rid of them around 200,000+ miles, nothing has been in the crank case except the cheapest Petroleum Institute-approved oil (regular old Exxon, Mobil, Shell, etc.).
I stopped using "premium" brands when Consumer Reports came out with their year-long study which proved there's no advantage to synthetics, except freeze resistance. They conducted their study using taxis and police cars, which get extreme use running all day, day in day out, and get regular service. They dismantled and blueprinted all the engines and provided all the different oil brands for the test in unmarked drums.
After the test ran its course, they dismantled all the engines and measured every tolerance. The result after hundreds of thousands of miles in every condition imaginable was absolutely no discernible difference in wear between the premium oils (both regular and synthetic) and the cheaper "gas station" brands. The only difference they could find was the fact that synthetics freeze at lower temps (regular oils turn to Jello at 20 below).
Just look for the seal of approval of the Petroleum Institute and don't pay more than $1.09 or so per quart. Until I see another independent study that can refute the one by Consumer Reports, I will continue to believe that all these so-called "premium" oils are just all hype.
posted 05-18-2004 12:59 PM ET (US)
Why do you want to switch brands of oil and what makes you think that you would know better than your Johnson dealer? (Not that I am a dealer).
I think the proper qualification for the motor oil would be a FCW (Four Cycle Water Cooled) as per the NMMA and the SAE weight should be your primary concerns, not the API alone and not the brand of oil. The conditions that this motor will encounter would be very different than those of your Ferrari or Porche, your Chevy or your Ford.
As per word of mouth such atributes or advantages of synthetic over conventional oil, I leave this experience to the engineers that designed your motor and to Johnson that tested your engine in its facilities, they should know better the qualifications and performance criteria that this motor was engineered for and are summarized in your Owners Guide.
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