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Author Topic:   skeg replacement?

TrackerDave posted 06-08-2004 06:21 PM ET (US)
I am looking at a 1985 Johnson 85 hp. for my Montauk. The
price is right, but about 4 inches of the skeg is broken
off. What effect will it have on the boat, and can the
skeg be repaired without changing the whole bottom unit?
Thanks in advance for any info.
reclarke posted 06-08-2004 06:51 PM ET (US)
You might give these guys a call and see if they can help.
http://www.skegguard.com
Buckda posted 06-08-2004 06:54 PM ET (US)
Been there (last year).
I sheared off most of the skeg on my 70 HP when I hit a gravel bar last year. As long as there is about an inch of material "under" the "torpedo," you should be able to have a new skeg welded on for a reasonable price.
I did not notice a difference in handling with and without the skeg, though I felt it was best to operate the motor as it was designed...so I had the repair made.
It should cost less than a hundred dollars to repair, but while you have the lower unit off, you should ask them to change the water pump/impeller too (65 bucks in parts)...then they charge you for new gear lube...etc...it will come to about 200 bucks when you're through...but it is well worth it.
The motor should come back and look like it is brand new.
The reason they remove the lower unit is because it is easier to work on "upside down" and the welding process heats the rest of the unit, which could compromise seals and your lube...so it's just best to take it off.
Dave
JBCornwell posted 06-08-2004 07:45 PM ET (US)
Mark my vote down for SkegGard.
I have used several, not to repair, but to protect. They will take hits that would take an alloy skeg (and a prop)off with barely a nick.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Legobusier posted 06-08-2004 10:00 PM ET (US)
It's should not be too hard to find a shop to do it. Do make sure they cut a new "zig-zag" edge (sawtooth) on the bottom of the existing skeg and a matching cut on the top of the new one. This greatly increases the weld length and therefore provides additional strength. I think this is pretty common practice, but it never hurts to ask.
Chris
Bigshot posted 06-15-2004 11:15 AM ET (US)
Have not made a 85hp OMC since 1980...FYI
Skeggard...$99 and 15 minutes of time.
Dick posted 06-15-2004 02:51 PM ET (US)
My Bombardier Johnson/Evinrude refference shows the 85 HP available from 1970 thru 1980 and again from 1991 thru 1995.
Dick
LHG posted 06-15-2004 03:09 PM ET (US)
Replacement skegs are either a factry or aftermarket replacement weld-on piece, beginning at the bottom of the gear bullet. Each manufacturer has their own unique skeg shape, except for the Honda's that use Mercury's lower units. The lower unit is removed, and sent to a shop who does the aluminum welding work and repainting.
Done right, the entire lower unit will look factory new.
For a perfectionist, and for reducing lower unit drag, this is the only way!
I know somebody who had a Yamaha skeg re-done, but they welded on the Mercury part
Billymac posted 06-15-2004 03:14 PM ET (US)
I always thought that the skegGard would transfer too much trama to the lower unit. Reasoning...part of the skeg gives way before more (expansive/expensive) damage done to the rest of engine.
Any thoughts on this? I took a chunk of my 25hp Merc's skeg last fall while duck hunting, but have not repaired yet.
Billymac
Plotman posted 06-15-2004 07:17 PM ET (US)
New skeg ~$100 in my neck of the woods. New lower unit = $mucho.
Same reason I run aluminum props in skinny water. I can get a lot of props fixed for the price of one bent shaft. Same for the skeg.
Billymac posted 06-17-2004 09:53 AM ET (US)
That was my thought on the Skeg, no give with a skegGard.
I think the Aluminum vs. Stainless prop thing is a misnomer however. Outboards these days all have a hub that should cause the prop to "slip" with impact, before damage is done to the shaft, lower unit, etc. Sheering a blade off an aluminum prop can cause major cavitaion that can cause serious damage to your engine, more than a bent shaft.
Billymac
Bigshot posted 06-17-2004 10:52 AM ET (US)
Man I whacked a submerged cement structure doing about 30mph with my 70hp on my 15'. It dented the skeggard pretty bad, blew out one of the bolts holding it on, motor flew up even with PTnT but not ONE nick on the SST prop. I removed the skeggard, stuck it in a vise to straighten it out and reinstalled....AWESOME piece of metal that saved my lower unit.
Bigshot posted 06-17-2004 10:59 AM ET (US)
PS Dick that 85 from 91-95 is the 4cyl crossflow "backtroller" model which is a commercial 85hp tiller model.

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Author	Topic: skeg replacement?
TrackerDave	posted 06-08-2004 06:21 PM ET (US) I am looking at a 1985 Johnson 85 hp. for my Montauk. The price is right, but about 4 inches of the skeg is broken off. What effect will it have on the boat, and can the skeg be repaired without changing the whole bottom unit? Thanks in advance for any info.
reclarke	posted 06-08-2004 06:51 PM ET (US) You might give these guys a call and see if they can help. http://www.skegguard.com
Buckda	posted 06-08-2004 06:54 PM ET (US) Been there (last year). I sheared off most of the skeg on my 70 HP when I hit a gravel bar last year. As long as there is about an inch of material "under" the "torpedo," you should be able to have a new skeg welded on for a reasonable price. I did not notice a difference in handling with and without the skeg, though I felt it was best to operate the motor as it was designed...so I had the repair made. It should cost less than a hundred dollars to repair, but while you have the lower unit off, you should ask them to change the water pump/impeller too (65 bucks in parts)...then they charge you for new gear lube...etc...it will come to about 200 bucks when you're through...but it is well worth it. The motor should come back and look like it is brand new. The reason they remove the lower unit is because it is easier to work on "upside down" and the welding process heats the rest of the unit, which could compromise seals and your lube...so it's just best to take it off. Dave
JBCornwell	posted 06-08-2004 07:45 PM ET (US) Mark my vote down for SkegGard. I have used several, not to repair, but to protect. They will take hits that would take an alloy skeg (and a prop)off with barely a nick. Red sky at night. . . JB
Legobusier	posted 06-08-2004 10:00 PM ET (US) It's should not be too hard to find a shop to do it. Do make sure they cut a new "zig-zag" edge (sawtooth) on the bottom of the existing skeg and a matching cut on the top of the new one. This greatly increases the weld length and therefore provides additional strength. I think this is pretty common practice, but it never hurts to ask. Chris
Bigshot	posted 06-15-2004 11:15 AM ET (US) Have not made a 85hp OMC since 1980...FYI Skeggard...$99 and 15 minutes of time.
Dick	posted 06-15-2004 02:51 PM ET (US) My Bombardier Johnson/Evinrude refference shows the 85 HP available from 1970 thru 1980 and again from 1991 thru 1995. Dick
LHG	posted 06-15-2004 03:09 PM ET (US) Replacement skegs are either a factry or aftermarket replacement weld-on piece, beginning at the bottom of the gear bullet. Each manufacturer has their own unique skeg shape, except for the Honda's that use Mercury's lower units. The lower unit is removed, and sent to a shop who does the aluminum welding work and repainting. Done right, the entire lower unit will look factory new. For a perfectionist, and for reducing lower unit drag, this is the only way! I know somebody who had a Yamaha skeg re-done, but they welded on the Mercury part
Billymac	posted 06-15-2004 03:14 PM ET (US) I always thought that the skegGard would transfer too much trama to the lower unit. Reasoning...part of the skeg gives way before more (expansive/expensive) damage done to the rest of engine. Any thoughts on this? I took a chunk of my 25hp Merc's skeg last fall while duck hunting, but have not repaired yet. Billymac
Plotman	posted 06-15-2004 07:17 PM ET (US) New skeg ~$100 in my neck of the woods. New lower unit = $mucho. Same reason I run aluminum props in skinny water. I can get a lot of props fixed for the price of one bent shaft. Same for the skeg.
Billymac	posted 06-17-2004 09:53 AM ET (US) That was my thought on the Skeg, no give with a skegGard. I think the Aluminum vs. Stainless prop thing is a misnomer however. Outboards these days all have a hub that should cause the prop to "slip" with impact, before damage is done to the shaft, lower unit, etc. Sheering a blade off an aluminum prop can cause major cavitaion that can cause serious damage to your engine, more than a bent shaft. Billymac
Bigshot	posted 06-17-2004 10:52 AM ET (US) Man I whacked a submerged cement structure doing about 30mph with my 70hp on my 15'. It dented the skeggard pretty bad, blew out one of the bolts holding it on, motor flew up even with PTnT but not ONE nick on the SST prop. I removed the skeggard, stuck it in a vise to straighten it out and reinstalled....AWESOME piece of metal that saved my lower unit.
Bigshot	posted 06-17-2004 10:59 AM ET (US) PS Dick that 85 from 91-95 is the 4cyl crossflow "backtroller" model which is a commercial 85hp tiller model.