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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
90 HP OMC steering damper
|Author||Topic: 90 HP OMC steering damper|
posted 06-28-2004 09:58 AM ET (US)
Can anyone (maybe gtcway, who was helpful with my earlier electrical question on the same motor), tell me where the "steering damper" (for lack of better terminology) is on a circa 2000 90 HP OMC 2S motor? What I'm looking for is the screw or bolt that can be tightened or loosened to allow the motor to be turned more or less easily. Motor is here, Owner's Manual is 500 miles away, where the Montauk on which the motor is mounted is headed at the end of this week, and I'd like to do some adjustment before it gets away from me but can't find the right thing to turn.
posted 06-28-2004 12:36 PM ET (US)
A 2000 Evinrude/Johnson 90 doesn't have an adjustment on a remote steering model, but probably on a commercial tiller model. (I've never worked on a tiller model) You need to grease the pivot shaft with a grease gun. The best thing to do is have the boat on a trailer, tilt it all the way up and pump grease until you see it coming out at the top. Once you see grease, turn the engine from side to side a few times and pump some more grease in.
I should have mentioned earlier to have the steering cable disconnected to rule that out if you haven't already.
posted 06-28-2004 02:27 PM ET (US)
This is a remote steer model, and I was looking to introduce friction so it doesn't turn quite so easily - at WOT or anywhere close to it, if you even *think* about not holding the helm tightly, it'll take off galley west on you...
posted 06-28-2004 05:39 PM ET (US)
That's what the teleflex no-feedback steering is about.
It's behind the steering wheel, but I don't think it's
It should be hands-off at full throttle.
You can try playing with the trim too, but I think you have
posted 06-28-2004 06:56 PM ET (US)
I *do* have a steering problem - it scares me to death.
I'm going to see if adjusting the lateral trim tab on the underside of the AV plate makes any difference. It's an '82 Montauk and while I've spent a lot of time and money this winter and spring "bringing it back", it's purpose is still utilitarian and I'm not sure I can get the rest of the clan to pony up for anti-feedback steering, what with the cost of all the other repairs, but that (or hydraulic) is what it needs...
posted 06-28-2004 09:28 PM ET (US)
Does the boat "pull" to one side, probably the right side?
posted 06-29-2004 09:58 AM ET (US)
Additionally, I installed the spare prop before a water test on Sunday because some member of my family had hit something hard enough to knock a hunk out of the prop, and noticed at the same time that they also hit something hard enough to bend the skeg. I'm wondering about some additional pull from the bent skeg.
posted 06-29-2004 11:10 AM ET (US)
Skeg will make a difference. No adjustment for friction on anything larger than a 15hp or so. To keep from doing a 90 degree turn, adjust skeg under AV plate.
posted 06-29-2004 11:11 AM ET (US)
PS...One should NEVER let go of the helm at or near WOT to begin with. Adjusting the skeg thingy should do the trick though.
posted 06-29-2004 11:47 AM ET (US)
I'm going to try to straighten the bent skeg by holding a 10# sledge head against on one side of the skeg and tapping with a 2# hammer on the other - if successful it might make the project of adjusting the skeg tab a little more effective...
*I'm* not going to let go of the helm, but I do worry about other family members (of the type who whacked the rock and damaged the prop and skeg to begin with but never thought to fix either one or to tell anyone who could).
posted 06-29-2004 12:40 PM ET (US)
Nope, no steering damper or steering friction adjustment on my 1985 70Hp OMC engine either... The tab on the AV plate is what you need to adjust to prevent "torque steer" at speed.
(since you declined on the NFB and hydraulic steering options which cost hundreds of $$$ more than adjusting the tab).
posted 06-29-2004 01:12 PM ET (US)
I was able to straighten a bent skeg by heating it with a MAP gas torch and using the method you describe. Heat a while, a few taps, repeat. Work slowly and carefully. I used a wet towel wrapped around the gear case to keep things cool so I wouldn't cook any seals.
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