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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
Trailering: Engine Up or Down?
|Author||Topic: Trailering: Engine Up or Down?|
posted 07-27-2004 10:19 AM ET (US)
Just purchased Johnson 70 4-stroke on Montauk. Want to do it right. Manual says down, but clearence would be a problem.
posted 07-27-2004 10:25 AM ET (US)
Get a transom saver - essentially a stick that goes between the lower unit of the engine to the trailer to take stress off of trim mechanicals while keeping you from dragging the skeg.
posted 07-27-2004 01:13 PM ET (US)
What Plotman said with the caveat to also securely strap the transom down to the trailer. You want the boat, motor, and trailer to move a a unit on the axle springs, and not against each other. Adjust the transom saver to raise the motor skeg an inch or two above the level of the lower crossbar on the the trailer. BillS
posted 07-27-2004 01:37 PM ET (US)
Just my $.02 but transom savers are a gimmick and will probably do more damage than without(unless a non PTnT motor). That transom takes more stress than hitting a bump on the highway will EVER do. I tilt mine down to where the trim rams take hold and stop, that way you have 3 rams holding the engine in place. You can then use a strap if you want...but not necessary. Do a search on transom savers and see what a friggin debate it is....if ya want.
posted 07-27-2004 02:41 PM ET (US)
A large part of one side of the debate, as near as I'm able to tell, is from those who don't like transom savers because they don't think that transoms need saving. The irony is that most of us (I'm one) who recommend them recommend them to support the lower unit on your motor when travelling, not to save the transom. So maybe calling them lower unit supports will put oil on the water, so to speak...One thing is for sure; they *don't* do more harm than good.
posted 07-27-2004 03:03 PM ET (US)
Agreed on the terminology front -
While many aluminum hulls need the motor support offered by a transom saver to keep the weight of the motor from "stressing" the transom, the real benefit to these devices on a BW rig is as outlined by Kingfish.
The benefit is that IF your boat is strapped securely to the trailer, the "transom saver" will reduce stress on your hydraulic tilt and trim system on your outboard by reducing the loads on the cylinders brought about by gravity etc.
Also, as Bigshot outlined, if you can get three hydraulic cylinders supporting the outboard, you're in good shape, but on my Outrage, the trailer and boat sits too low for me to get to this point without real cause for concern when entering/exiting parking lots and other areas with a bit of a gradient. The transom saver lifts my motor high enough to provide this clearance, and keeps the pressure off the Hydraulic system on the boat (also useful when the boat is sitting on the trailer not being used - sadly, most of it's life). For that reason alone, they may be worth the 30 bucks or so on a decent unit.
Given that there is such a level of debate on their usefulness, it's not suprising to see someone offer the opinion that they may actually do HARM. Personally, I dismiss that notion without prejudice - so...if they're not really helping other than to give me peace of mind, well...that's worth the 30 dollars in any case. I'm not so cheap to avoid sacrificing what amounts to an evening out buying beers with the guys for my peace of mind, so I have one.
Other opinions may vary.
posted 07-27-2004 04:21 PM ET (US)
With my Evinrude 90, there's no load on the hydraulics. The
motor has brace that swings up, then you drop the lower unit
on the brace. The motor's owner's manual doesn't mention
transom savers, so I figure the lower unit isn't a problem.
A buddy's Merc 90 has something similar (though Merc put the
And with motor tilted, it's CG is closer to over the transom,
posted 07-27-2004 04:36 PM ET (US)
The reason I say they "probably" do harm is if you hit something REAL hard with that trailer, the shock is going right to your lower unit which might not be good. The force of that engine producing 25 or 225hp is greater on that transom than trailering it...said my $.04
posted 07-27-2004 05:35 PM ET (US)
I'm with Bigshot on this one. The prop on the lower unit exerts enough force to propel a Montauk 40mph. Unless you're off-roading on unpaved wilderness with your whaler in tow, you're not likely to surpass the stress on the transom that the engine exerts during normal operation of a boat...
posted 07-27-2004 06:15 PM ET (US)
I don’t know much about them, I've never used one or got a good look at one.
How to they attach to the motor and how to they attach to the trailer?
My dad just bought a Montauk,I think its got a transom saver on it. Haven’t seen the boat yet. It will be here in a few weeks, just curious.
posted 07-27-2004 06:57 PM ET (US)
number of trailerable power boats I have owned : 15
miles trailered : 45,000 +
number of transom savers owned : 0
number of motors or transoms damaged while trailering : 0
I always trailer with the motor as low as I can . If the tilt and trim can overcome the thrust of the prop and the pounding of the boat , then the highway is a cake walk.
posted 07-27-2004 07:39 PM ET (US)
If your hydraulic trim/tilt system fails in the water it's no big deal. If it fails in your driveway, it's no big deal, but if it fails on the highway, well....let's just say that a new skeg costs more than the $30 "Transom Saver".
Just because nothing has happened to you (or to me) doesn't mean that it can't or won't. My opinion is that $30 is cheap insurance against unforseen hydraulic failure.
I've towed many boats both with and without the transom saver; but since I first used one, I've always felt better with it on back there.
So, to adapt the last post:
Number of times transom saver was necessary due to failed hydraulics: 1 = $125 saved
Number of transom savers: 2 = $60
Additonal cost of transom saver (damage to boat, motor or trailer; maintenance (what maintenance?)): $0
ROI = $65
Peace of mind: Priceless
There are some things money can't buy, but for the cost of a transom saver, I get peace of mind.
Done deal in my mind; I don't expect to change yours...but I did want to be understood for why I feel as I do.
posted 07-27-2004 08:08 PM ET (US)
Before you take any advice, read your owner's manual. Page 36 of my manual (for 2005 model year 75/90/115 HP Merc 4 stroke engines, copyright 2004) states:
"Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down in a vertical operating position. If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an accessory outboard support device...IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering."
I think that says it in pretty plain language. Those who wish to follow different advice do so at their own peril.
posted 07-27-2004 08:18 PM ET (US)
And for OMC's,
Raise the engine and engage the tilt bracket (feet).
Absolutely no need for a Transom save for OMC engines according to the manual.
posted 07-27-2004 08:25 PM ET (US)
I just read the part about a Johnson 70 HP 4 stroke
This must be the Suzuki version then.
I am not familiar with Suzuki.
posted 07-27-2004 09:38 PM ET (US)
I have talked to 2 mechanics who have simply said to raise the engian high enough to engage the support lever. Then let it rest on that. However, the owners manual on page 34 says the following: Trailer your boat with the motor in a vertical position. If your trailer does not provide adequate road clearence, the motor can be trailered by using an accessory trailering bracket. See your DEALER. DO NOT use the tilt support when trailering.
posted 07-27-2004 09:51 PM ET (US)
You do not mention the brand of engine.
If your mechanic told you not to use the trailering bracket for every engine on the market, he is out of touch and needs help. Do not listen to him unless he is talking about a particular brand, like the one he works on or knows.
My OMC manual states;
"We recommend your motor be trailered in its normal running position. If trailer does not provide adequate road clearance, a Trail Lock is provided to secure motor in full tilt position for trailering".
The trail lock is what I called the "feet" above.
Other engine manufactures recommend other things.
posted 07-27-2004 09:59 PM ET (US)
As to my trailering without transom saver , all my experience is with omc and yamaha and while I don't feel the need for one , just because I do not does not mean anyone should do as I do.
But I do feel if it was needed I would know by now.
As for the skeg reaching the road on flat ground , if that was the case I would adjust my trailer or trailer hitch.
posted 07-27-2004 10:09 PM ET (US)
For those of you that do not have a manual with their OMC, here is what my manual states for Engageing the Trail Lock.
This is for almost all the older OMC's with Power Trim & Tilt up to around year 1995.
TO ENGAGE TRAIL LOCK:
TO DISENGAGE TRAIL LOCK:
Again, this is the recommended way for the above OMC models and I have never had problem one is 30 years of doing it this way.
posted 07-27-2004 10:27 PM ET (US)
What year Johnson 70hp 4 stroke?
I would follow the manual whatever it states but then your manual says to see a dealer. Doesn't sound like the manual is very helpful in this case.
Some mechanics OMC mechanics will automatically assume you are Johnson, not a Suzuki unless you are more specific. Give them the year and tell them it is a 4 stroke. This might turn on the light bulbs and give them a clue it is a Suzuki engine.
Just a thought.
posted 07-27-2004 10:43 PM ET (US)
My 25hp Merc 4 stroke has a slide (a short rod about an inch in diameter) in the upper part of the left side of the mount that apparently could be used as a stop to keep the engine tilted for additional ground clearance (which it needs). Seems odd to be on one side only though.
The previous owner had a chunk of 2x4 cut to fit between the engine and the mount so that you tilt the engine down on it and it allows the engine to rest on the wood instead of any metal stop provided.
This seems pretty silly from an engineering standpoint, but perhaps not as silly as having the mechanical stop on the opposite side as the "stop" provided.
I've been using the chunk 'o 2x4, but have wondered about it from day one. Any wisdom out there to support this kind of approach?
posted 07-27-2004 10:57 PM ET (US)
Well, we've managed to illustrate that the use of a "transom saver" is a hotly debated topic anyway!
I guess the most prudent recommendation is to first, consult your owner's manual, if you have one.
If the way your trailer is set up precludes explicitly following the suggestion in your owner's manual, to take their advice (i.e. "tow with the motor trimmed down") and try to recreate that as much as possible with your rig.
This may mean the following:
Of course, if your manual recommends towing in the upright and locked position, as apparently recommended by OMC, then none of these choices really apply to you at all.....
TJR, since your manual says "down", and you can't achieve this, my advice given above stands.
Roy - check your owners manual to see what Merc recommends - I've heard of people using blocks of wood too...but have no experience with this.
posted 07-27-2004 11:23 PM ET (US)
My Merc manual says: Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down (vertical operating position). If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an outboard support bar. Additional clearance may be required for railroad crossings, driveways and trailer bouncing. Do not rely on the power tilt/trim system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering.
posted 07-28-2004 12:04 AM ET (US)
I am not knocking Mercury here but that is one thing I really hated about the Merc I owned. I had to have the Transom saver support rod.
If a block of wood works like Bucda mentions (and I believe they do as I have seen many) then why doesn't Mercury incorporate into their design. They have to know people are going to use a trailer to tow their engines around.
I am not sure about the other brands.
Anyone have any info on how to trailer these other brands...???
posted 07-28-2004 08:13 AM ET (US)
My Honda 90 (1998) manual says the following:
When trailering or transporting the bot (yes it really say's "bot") with the motor attached, it is recommended that the motor remain in the normal run position.
(Tilller Handle Type)
(Remote Control Type)
If there is insufficient road clearance with the normal in normal run position, than trailer the motor in the tilted position using a motor support bar (refer to your motor support bar manufactuurer's instructions) or remove the motor from the boat."
For the record I have towed this sucker about 2000 miles since March with no support bar. I do lock the engine up which (at least) takes the load off the T/T cylinders.
posted 07-28-2004 08:52 AM ET (US)
On both of my Mercs a 90 and 225, I have used a 12" long piece of 2 x 8 on edge between the motor and the bracket. Ptting it in there the first time and lowering the motor on it creates four dents in the edges of the board that can be used for line up after that. Pressure treated is my choice of wood. I also put an eye on one end of it for a short peice of cord and a snap that goes on the transom lifting eye. Wouldn't want it to fall off on the highway and go through someones windshield.
posted 07-28-2004 09:58 AM ET (US)
Shoot fno, I go so far as to paint my wood braces (black of course) to match my engines. :)
posted 07-28-2004 11:14 AM ET (US)
Wood is good and glad to see you use the safety lanyard Frank. The reason I see the owners manual stating a use for these products is because they don't want to be blamed for any damage if PTnT system leaked down(which can happen if faulty) and engine grinding itself to a knub.
I can also see why Honda and whomever says to use them to keep the engine from moving side to side which can cause a "thud" in a sharp turn but usually they move to one side and stay there. A bungee cord would also suffice. Worse case scenerio is the engine turns sideways and causes more wind resistence and hence worse gas mileage.
Now 2 things are known here...Merc calls it an "accessory outboard support device". Accessory means it is an option through your merc dealer with Quicksilver or Mercury logo on it...they therefore make a profit on it. 2nd Honda calls it an "outboard support bar" because they are more worried about side to side movement, especially on tiller models which I also have no problem with.
My PROBLEM is and has always been that the companies who make them AND the people who sell them call them "Transom Savers". They do all of the above and help give peace of mind that your SS prop will still have 3 blades if your trim loses pressure, block of wood falls out, or support lever snaps being made of pot metal....NOWHERE does a manual claim it will SAVE YOUR TRANSOM. Now being the kind poster asked about clearence problem and many have brought up good points about the perils of towing, I retract my comment and if you feel the need use it. But...Do NOT call it a transom saver unless you own a Bayliner :)
Being that said....many trailers(like 2 of mine) do not have a way to connect an "outboard support device" to the trailer, especially if they do not have a keel roller so this may be a mute point. My final $.02
posted 07-28-2004 01:18 PM ET (US)
I read the manual of my 2002 90-hp Mercury 2-stroke when I first bought my boat. It says what Marsh and Kamie wrote above. I ignored this and just towed my boat around with the motor tilted about 1/3 up, supported by the hydraulic tilt/trim. After 2 months my tilt trim was broken for the first time. 2 months later it broke down again and this time it wasn't just an o-ring but the whole system had to be replaced. After that I followed the instructions in the manual and I now use a "Motor Tilt/Trim Saver". (I refuse to call it anything else because I don't want to step on anyone's toes here:-)...and actually they are right) I haven't had a problem since.
I guess Mercury puts it into their manual for a reason.
posted 07-28-2004 01:20 PM ET (US)
Wow, I thought I had a hunk of 2x4 holding my engine up, and it turns out to be a "custom dented" transom saving boating accessory.
I very much appreciate the advice about the lanyard - very good idea, fno! I can also see myself painting it if I can find a good match for "Quicksilver Black" 8>)
posted 07-28-2004 01:34 PM ET (US)
Erik...glad it works for you but makes me REAL nervous about Merc TnT pumps now. In all my boats which ALL are towed, I only had one unit that went bad and that was a check valve in my 90hp Yamaha.
posted 07-28-2004 01:46 PM ET (US)
Hey Roy. I just use gloss black paint from a cheap rattle can, touch up every so often when needed. ;)
posted 07-28-2004 01:55 PM ET (US)
Nick, I'm just reporting what happened to my motor. Maybe it's just coincidence? Maybe it was just a bum tilt/trim from the beginning. I don't know. I can tell you that when your TnT fails to work twice within 6 months you don't feel too happy about it. I now just mount the support and don't think about it anymore. Is it necessary? I don't know. I do know that I haven't had any trouble with the TnT ever since. Mercury must have had trouble before or they wouldn't put it in their manual. IMO
posted 07-28-2004 08:48 PM ET (US)
I use a 2x6 laid flat almost 2 years and works fine with fno's custom dents. May upgrade to a 2x8 after dragging skeg out of a parking lot this weekend.- If I have any quicksilver black left after painting skeg maybe I'll custom paint the 2x6.
posted 07-28-2004 10:22 PM ET (US)
I use a 10" length of pressure-traeted 4 by 4. The 2 by lumber didn't give me enough angle. I also drilled two 1-1/2" diameter holes about 3/8" deep on the bracket side and 1' diameter on the motor side. Once the trim is cranked down, until the pistons are fully retracted, the 4 by 4 is there to stay.
Good tip on the safety lanyard.
posted 07-29-2004 12:57 AM ET (US)
kinda related topic
there have been some failures in engine brackets due to the engine being partially trimed up and full throttle being applied.
fyi the trim pump and seals did not fail...one very strong appearing brackett casting did.
with this info in mind.
trim pump and seals did not fail even tho extreme forces where applied
any other opinions out there?
posted 07-29-2004 07:51 PM ET (US)
Might as well get my $.02 on this one. Although it may not be self evident, the instantaneous shock loads transmitted to the motor tilt/trim mechanism from uneven road surfaces CAN far exceed any forces applied during full throttle acceleration on the water. If the motor is "full down", it will be resting on the mounting bracket which will help take the shock load. In any other position the tilt/trim unit must absorb these shocks. The "tilt/trim saver" will eliminate much of the shock load and I personally would not be without one. Even if the tilt/trim is designed to take the abuse of highway shock loads you are adding wear while not using the boat. If there is a built in mechanism that unloads the tilt/trim while trailering, that would be another matter and probably a better design. Think about it.
As a side comment, if a motor manufacturer is actually concerned about mechanical failure of their mount in normal operation I would RUN to another nameplate!! This would be an extremely dangerous situation.
posted 07-30-2004 01:28 PM ET (US)
No offense to Yamaha but I have NEVER seen an engine bracket break and I invented freestyle boat jumping in the Barnegat inlet back in the early 80's :) I have seen a few Yamahas broken, namely dingies with the engine tilted while being towed. I always thought it was weird but then again Japanese pot metal might not be as good as American crap being Japanese is most like recycled American crap. Anyhoots these were all on NON PTnT engines and hence why I have said to use a engine support device if clearance is a problem, especially on a NON PTnT engine. Road clearence is not a problem with my rig. Now that I have heard that Yamaha engine brackets are cracking because full throtle is applied while partially trimmed scares the snot out of me. If you are running and jump a wake..the last thing I want to worry about is my engine falling off because I nailed the throttle down after I landed....which is COMMON practice. Now most people do not drive like they stole it...including myself BUT when I do it better not give me any worries.
posted 07-30-2004 04:14 PM ET (US)
FNO's got it right. Even if your manual tells you it OK to trailer in any locked or unlocked "up" position, thoudands of miles trailered, 5 Whalers and many previous boats of mine have used the 2 x 4 between the engine and bracket to gain about a foot of ground clearance. The dents are the guide, and the stress is off the T&T completely. Apparently it was SO clever that a month ago, I had my Dauntless parked on its trailer, and - overnight - someone stole my nice 3 x 3 solid oak motor support. Interestingly, now that I use a 2 x 4, nobody's bothered it...
posted 07-31-2004 03:28 AM ET (US)
anyone got any pics of these support brakets or how it looks with the 2X4, 4x4 etc??? thanks
posted 07-31-2004 04:51 AM ET (US)
Henry, check your mail.
posted 07-31-2004 09:50 AM ET (US)
Not to be a doomsayer,
However, the motors I was speaking of were 4 strokes over 150hp
with that in mind, realize that the weight of these modern fourstrokes weigh a lot more that the two strokes of the 80's.We're talking about weights as much as 598lbs for the 225hp as an example. also factor in the torque of a big fourstroke.
I am wondering also if the boats you "put thru the wringer"
the same weight issues apply to modern 4 strokes as compared to 2 strokes of the 70's and eighties.
a couple things to consider, If you look at the mounting bracket on a mercury or a yamaha 4 stroke...you will notice that the bracket used on smaller hp 4 strokes is ery simular and in most cases the same as the larger 4 strokes.
not to leave honda unscathed, if you look at the honda bracket it is quite beefy and taller, However,however note that the honda compared to merc-mahas, weigh much more.
posted 07-31-2004 11:20 AM ET (US)
The only way a motor support bracket could damage a lower unit would be if it moved independently of the trailer and boat, relative to the motor mount bracket. That isn't the case when the the trailer hits a large bump. The whole rig, trailer, boat, and motor move together. The bracket keeps the motor from pivoting forward and backward, and keeps it tied to the boat and trailer, as one unit.
The Mercury owners manual says to use a motor support bracket if you can't tow with the motor vertical. So I take the advice of their engineers and use one.
The Fulton Performance bracket:
It has a soft V-cradle for the lower unit AND shock-absorbing rubber in the telescoping shaft design.
My concern with using a wood block in the motor bracket is that it's like propping a door open with a block between the door and door jamb on the inside where the hinges are. If you've ever done that, you may have discovered the door has considerable leverage to pull the hinges out of the door or jamb.
posted 08-02-2004 07:09 AM ET (US)
Where is the best place to buy one, Moe?
posted 08-02-2004 09:13 AM ET (US)
Moe nailed it, for my money - I have a similar device, from Fulton but with some small differences, I think. The lower unit cradle on mine is gimballed on both sides so as to conform to the shape and size of the lower unit at the point of support. I lower the lower unit into the cradle until the hydraulic rams drop away, which compresses the internal rubber dampers inside the support tube, and provides cushioning for the lower unit in the event there is any shock that would otherwise be telegraphed from the trailer to the L.U. Once the L.U. is so lowered and the rubber damper compressed, a heavy rubber "bungee" is attached to one side of the cradle, stretched tightly around the backside of the lower unit and attached to the other side of the support cradle. This way the lower unit is captured and suspended with the advantage of compression and stretch of rubber to protect it.
posted 08-16-2004 09:09 AM ET (US)
I'll second Yiddil's comment - anyone have a picture of the the 2x4 or 4x4 wood support. It's not clear to me how it's set up. Thanks.
Perhaps a detailed description would help if no pics are available.
posted 08-16-2004 09:34 AM ET (US)
Pierre, I have the same bracket that Moe has posted the link to.
posted 08-16-2004 11:19 AM ET (US)
David, I'm sorry I didn't see your request for info and it's been over two weeks. I got my bracket at a local Mom and Pop store, but as someone pointed out in another thread, West Marine carries it.
posted 08-16-2004 02:57 PM ET (US)
Thanks to those who have sent me or have posted pictures of "transom savers" like the Fulton Kushion Kradle. Unfortunately, these setups seem to depend on a transom roller on the trailer. The new Montauk I just received includes a Karavan trailer and this has no rollers (except for one in the middle of the unit). Instead, the Montauk just rests on the bunkers; it has no contact with a roller (it's not even close to the single mid-roller).
I sent an email to my dealer about the issue brought up on this thread (I have a Merc 90 4STK) and he has reassured me that he always uses the tilt support lever on his Montauk, and he has never heard of any damage or problems doing this. He works at Nauset and has been in the business a long time. Still....
I also tried a 2x4 with the 4" going from the metal transom bracket to the lower part of the engine, however this is not anywhere near long enough. With the engine vertical, I have about 2 include clearance with the road. I need the engine tilted up quite a bit.
Another related question - does it matter if the engine is aiming straight, or most I turn the wheel to aim the motor left or right?
posted 08-16-2004 02:59 PM ET (US)
Third paragraph should say: "have about 2 inch clearance.."
posted 08-16-2004 03:36 PM ET (US)
I had the same Problem because I've got Twins and the trailer roller is in the center of the trailer. It does not line up with either motor. So I got a couple of those hard rubber V Block bow chocks used on trailers. Drilled through the prongs on the roller end of the Fulton unit, and bolted the bow chock through it. Fits like it waas made to order. The V Block now rests directly on the trailer crossmember directly in line with each motor. BillS
posted 08-16-2004 05:45 PM ET (US)
The Fulton can be set up either to sit on a roller, or pinned to a bracket installed underneath the rear crossmember.
I don't use the U-shaped thing that was included to be used with rollers since I don't have one.
posted 08-16-2004 06:13 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the picture, Moe! The new Montauk/Karavan trailer package has the boat sitting a little higher than the stern crossmember on the trailer, hence the distance I'd need for the support bar going from the trailer to the motor is at least 3 feet. In addition, the boat's stern sticks out the back of the trailer more than in your picture, hence I couldn't get as much of an angle from the trailer's crossmember to the engine. It just wouldn't work. I wonder if the BW engineers even bother using a "transom supporter" on their new Montauks - if any of them even owns or uses one!
posted 08-17-2004 10:12 AM ET (US)
I use a wedge (www.m-ywedge.com), purchased on a recommendation from this board for trailering my 170 Montauk (90HP 4-stroke) on a Karavan. It seems to work well.
posted 08-17-2004 10:46 AM ET (US)
Check Cabela's catalog - they sell a motor support device that has a "bend" in it to accomodate your stern overhanging the end of the trailer and still provides clearance to tilt the motor up and clear of any obstructions. This may be the solution in your case (it's what I use on my 15 - the boat hangs off the back of the trailer (on bunks, but the trailer crossmember is about 2 feet forward).
posted 08-17-2004 02:52 PM ET (US)
posted 08-17-2004 09:43 PM ET (US)
Thanks Dave, this item should do the trick!
posted 08-18-2004 06:32 AM ET (US)
I've ordered the Cabela's support device. Now the questions is -
Do I rest the engine on the engine's tilt support lever and then add the transom saver? Or do I not ever use the tilt support lever when towing?
posted 08-19-2004 01:29 PM ET (US)
my 40hp evinrude was trailered up, using purely the up-lock levers. one bracket is now broken. I use a transom saver. Found ones that are spring-loaded, so that they act as a shock absorber. I do not rest the engine weight on the tilt-levers anymore.
posted 08-19-2004 05:22 PM ET (US)
Use just the transom saver. The flimsy support arm is not up to the task. I ran my 89 Yamaha 130 on the factory support until it failed and bought a transom saver out of necessity. After one trip on the highway with my new 170 (90 hp 4-stroke merc) I decided to start using it a transom saver after watching the way my motor bounced around on the factory support. There's a reason Mercury wants you to use a support. They do lots of testing.
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