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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
do I need a deep cycle battery?
|Author||Topic: do I need a deep cycle battery?|
posted 07-29-2004 07:33 AM ET (US)
I originally posted this in the general forum but realized that it should be posted here.
Anyhow, the battery in my 1986 Montauk needs to be replaced and I could use some advice on a new battery.
The current battery is a deep cycle and I am wondering if I should continue with a deep cycle battery as I was told it should never be used to start your outboard.
Any advise, as always, will be greatly appreciated.I am mechanically challenged to say the least.
posted 07-29-2004 07:38 AM ET (US)
Just a regular group 24 battery will do. I get mine from Wal-mart, $40 and free exchange for 3 years if it fails.
posted 07-29-2004 08:08 AM ET (US)
What should the amps be? Also, what is the differnce between a deep cycle and a regular? I have so much to learn.
posted 07-29-2004 09:12 AM ET (US)
Wendy, Check out the following. It should answer all your questions. Basically, deep cycle batteries have heavier plates
inside the battery and are commonly used in sailboats where batteries are discharged and charged frequently. The site below explains it in more detail. I have deep cycle batteries on my Whaler... a carry over from my sailing days.
posted 07-29-2004 10:31 AM ET (US)
If you often use accessories that run off the battery while the engine is not charging the battery you should consider the deep cycle.
A regular battery is not made to be drawn down and recharged frequently like a deep cycle is.
I run deep cycles on my boat also.
posted 07-29-2004 12:38 PM ET (US)
I checked out battery faq and I can honestly tell you that it all looks like rocket science to me (my mind has a real attitude problem when it comes to math & mechanical understanding).
I was given a marine battery this morning by a fellow worker, it's not a deep cycle, and I was thinking of trying it out. He thought it would be adequate.
Because I had lost battery power on the deep cycle last week (at the most inconvenient time, of course) I have since purchased a portable jump box which I will not carry with me on the boat.
Thanks for the advice so far, I am open to any!
posted 07-29-2004 12:54 PM ET (US)
If the battery that was given to you is new,that's great.
posted 07-29-2004 01:23 PM ET (US)
The mechanic at my job did do a load test and he said the battery was very good. I don't really have a problem springing for a new battery, they are actually quite inexpensive. I just hate having to drag my butt to to Walmart (I dislike shopping so much I buy everything online).
Again, I just want to make sure that I have a battery capable of starting the engine, as well as running the accessories. When I lost my battery power last week I was out on the water, thankfully a boater came by with some jumper cables. Thats why I intend to keep a jump box on the boat, just in case.
I was told that I deep cycle battery should only be used to start an engine in an emergency.
Buy, there's alot more to owning the Montauk that my little 13 footer.
posted 07-29-2004 02:22 PM ET (US)
Deep cycle batteries are not designed to be starting batteries.
You should have a standard cranking/starting battery for your starter.
If you add a lot of accessories, then it is a great idea to also have a deep cycle battery on board.
On my boat, I have a cranking battery for the motor alone. Then I have a deep cycle that runs all the accessories, trolling motor and lights. I have a thing that allows me to charge both batteries (separately - the deep cycle charges after the cranking battery comes to 13V).
If there is a problem with the cranking battery, I can always use the deep cycle to start the engine.
This setup gives a fair degree of reduncancy - always a good thing in a marine evironment.
posted 07-29-2004 03:09 PM ET (US)
Deep cycles, size 27 start my MERC 225 EFI just fine.
I'm staying w/ DC's for my style of boating/fishing.
posted 07-29-2004 07:17 PM ET (US)
I just replaced a battery and did some research before the new purchase. I concluded that it was most important to purchase an "AGM" type battery which stands for "absorbed Glass Mat". They come in starting and deep cycle versions and are a bit more costly ($80 to $120). The important things about this type of battery are that it is very resistant to shock and vibration, can go long dormant periods without losing its charge, it is totally sealed so it will not require you to check the electrolyte level and it will not produce corrosive fumes in your center console. Unless you use the battery to power accessories for LONG periods without the motor running then you should go with a starting battery. It seems to me a logical choice given the accessories you mention. For example a car battery is a "starting" type battery.
Another point is that you are located in a cold winter environment. The lower rate at which an AGM type of battery discharges while not in use would allow you to leave it in the boat over the winter without having to worry about it freezing and it should be ready to go in the spring without a charge.
Always purchase a battery with the minimum CCA (cold cranking amp) rating specified by your motor manual.
My last comment is that most shops do not know how to test a battery properly. Even the load test done at local car shop is just an indicator and will not show the actual capacity or condition of a battery. Some chemical changes of the battery electrodes are irreversable and not easily detected after a full charge. The bottom line here is that if your battery died on you during normal use AND there is no logical explaination like electrolyte level being low, lights or accessories were left on etc, then I would replace it.
posted 07-29-2004 08:23 PM ET (US)
I'm thinking I'll go with the starter battery for the rest of this season and before I winterize it, I'll have the wiring for a second battery done professionally.
Right now the GPS isn't set up (more rocket science)and the VHF, Fishfinder and lights can be turned on only as needed, so I'm sure I'll be able to slip by for a couple more months with the starter battery.
posted 07-29-2004 08:30 PM ET (US)
Just read your post after I sent mine up. The deep cycle battery that was in the boat is totally dead. Like a doornail.
The fellow that I bought my boat from had a starter battery from his new boat that he wasn't using so he gave it to me to replace my dead deep cycle. I had that starter battery checked by the mechanic here at work (Chevrolet dealership)and he said it was good, did a load test etc.
When I get home I'll get the specs on this starter battery and see if they match up to your info. I certainly have no reservations about buying a brand new one right off the shelf if that's needed.
Also, my Evinrude 90 didn't come with a manual. Is there a place online that I could get that info?
posted 07-30-2004 09:32 AM ET (US)
If you have a new battery in good condition I would not rush out to replace it. Enjoy the season, most boaters do not have "AGM" batteries and I personally wouldn't consider changing it out until next season. When you winterize, be sure to remove the battery you have and store it where it will not freeze. Conventional batteries lose their charge while just sitting dormant and once this happens the liquid within them can freeze, cause irreversable damage and possibly crack the case. If you do not replace it, be sure to have the it charged and check the fluid level before reinstalling next year.
If you replace the battery in the Spring, check out the Optima 34M at:
This is the one I went with, and unles your Evenrude has an unusually high CCA requirement it should serve you well. You will not have to remove it in the winter or charge it in the spring and it is totally sealed. Shop around on the web for the best price but watch out for shipping charges, these things are heavy. I bought one locally for $119.00 + tax.
posted 07-31-2004 04:49 AM ET (US)
Here is a link to where you can order a manual on-line. Hope this helps.
posted 07-31-2004 10:32 AM ET (US)
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