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Author Topic:   Drain Carbs for Winter Storage?

minimontauk posted 10-04-2004 02:13 PM ET (US)
I have a 15' Sport CC with a 97' Johnson two stroke 48hp SP motor. Depending on which source you read, I should:
A. Run stabilized gas through the engine, then disconnect fule line until it stalls, then fog cylinders.
B. Same as above, but drain carbs by removing screw at bottom of carbs (slow speed idle jet?)
Opinions or advice?
TexasWhaler posted 10-04-2004 02:23 PM ET (US)
minimontauk,
On similar motor I used to have, an 1989 Evinride 40 2-stroke, I used to just disconnect the fuel line and let it run out of gas on its own. Motor would sit for 4 or 5 months at times with no problems after hibernation. I never used stabilzer or fogging oils. This is probably not the most recommended way to do it, but I used this method for the 11 years I owned the motor without any problems at all.
It's amazing how fast varnish would build up in the carbs on those twin cylinder Johnson/Evinrudes if you left the gas in them.
Buckda posted 10-04-2004 02:28 PM ET (US)
I vote for option "A" for a few reasons:
Simplicity, Simplicity and Simplicity
and
It's been done before for years and years without problems
Don't forget to rain and replace your lower unit oil each fall also.
Dave
Peter posted 10-04-2004 03:07 PM ET (US)
Here's how I winterize:
1. Run stabilized gas mixture through motor. The recipe is about 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil: enough fuel stabilizer to treat 5 gallons of fuel (about 1 ounce) and 5 gallons of fuel). You can scale this up or down as you need to. I need to winterize three motors so 5 gallons is good.
2. After this stabilized mixture has run through the motor, I fog the motor using fogging oil sprayed back and forth through the carburetor or air throats until the motor barely runs and is spewing out white smoke like nobody's business.
3. Shut motor off in this state.
4. Remove plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders.
5. Drain and replace gearcase oil.
6. Lube all grease zirks.
7. Remove propeller, grease propeller shaft, reinstall propeller if in secure area. If not, leave propeller off then clean shaft and regrease in spring.
Done.
The problem with A is you don't get the fogging oil on the intake side of the motor which is where you also want it. Stabilized fuel in the carbs shouldn't be a problem.
Buckda posted 10-04-2004 03:17 PM ET (US)
I should also probably state that my motors typically get a mid-winter run via a trip to more southern, hospitable climes...this usually happens about January or February...so the motor sits for two months (mid-November to about mid-January) gets run, and then sits for another two months (February-early April). I usually use the boat in early April through mid-late November, so it's only receiving little use for about 4 months of the year.
Dave

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Author	Topic: Drain Carbs for Winter Storage?
minimontauk	posted 10-04-2004 02:13 PM ET (US) I have a 15' Sport CC with a 97' Johnson two stroke 48hp SP motor. Depending on which source you read, I should: A. Run stabilized gas through the engine, then disconnect fule line until it stalls, then fog cylinders. B. Same as above, but drain carbs by removing screw at bottom of carbs (slow speed idle jet?) Opinions or advice?
TexasWhaler	posted 10-04-2004 02:23 PM ET (US) minimontauk, On similar motor I used to have, an 1989 Evinride 40 2-stroke, I used to just disconnect the fuel line and let it run out of gas on its own. Motor would sit for 4 or 5 months at times with no problems after hibernation. I never used stabilzer or fogging oils. This is probably not the most recommended way to do it, but I used this method for the 11 years I owned the motor without any problems at all. It's amazing how fast varnish would build up in the carbs on those twin cylinder Johnson/Evinrudes if you left the gas in them.
Buckda	posted 10-04-2004 02:28 PM ET (US) I vote for option "A" for a few reasons: Simplicity, Simplicity and Simplicity and It's been done before for years and years without problems Don't forget to rain and replace your lower unit oil each fall also. Dave
Peter	posted 10-04-2004 03:07 PM ET (US) Here's how I winterize: 1. Run stabilized gas mixture through motor. The recipe is about 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil: enough fuel stabilizer to treat 5 gallons of fuel (about 1 ounce) and 5 gallons of fuel). You can scale this up or down as you need to. I need to winterize three motors so 5 gallons is good. 2. After this stabilized mixture has run through the motor, I fog the motor using fogging oil sprayed back and forth through the carburetor or air throats until the motor barely runs and is spewing out white smoke like nobody's business. 3. Shut motor off in this state. 4. Remove plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders. 5. Drain and replace gearcase oil. 6. Lube all grease zirks. 7. Remove propeller, grease propeller shaft, reinstall propeller if in secure area. If not, leave propeller off then clean shaft and regrease in spring. Done. The problem with A is you don't get the fogging oil on the intake side of the motor which is where you also want it. Stabilized fuel in the carbs shouldn't be a problem.
Buckda	posted 10-04-2004 03:17 PM ET (US) I should also probably state that my motors typically get a mid-winter run via a trip to more southern, hospitable climes...this usually happens about January or February...so the motor sits for two months (mid-November to about mid-January) gets run, and then sits for another two months (February-early April). I usually use the boat in early April through mid-late November, so it's only receiving little use for about 4 months of the year. Dave