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Author Topic:   Owner-Performed Service: 1992 OMC 200 HP

JMARTIN posted 10-26-2004 12:11 PM ET (US)
Going to take my 1992 Evinrude 200 into the shop for a service/winterization. I have no knowledge of what has been done to the motor in the past. I think it only has about 200 hours on it. It smokes quite a bit at idle, it is loud and loves the gasoline, but I think that is normal. Other than that, it runs fine. It is on a 1983 V-22 Revenge and I average about 9 gallons an hour at cruise which is 3500 rpm. According to the GPS I am doing about 26 to 28 mph at cruise. WOT can get to 40 mph, but I seldom run at WOT, only for about a minute every 3rd or 4th trip out. The GPS figures are one direction only, not a true test of speed. Salt water running only. On my list so far is:
Change gear lube, zinc, plugs, water pump, thermostats, and winterize.
What am I missing? Are there some filters to be changed? Should the oil system be checked and/or adjusted? Should it have a decarbonization done? Forgive my ignorance, but does it have an electronic ignition or points to be adjusted or replaced? How about the carburetors, I assume it does not have carbs, not fuel injection. Should I have them do a compression test? I could tell them to treat it like it was thier motor and do what is needed to keep it running well, but I do not want them to do unecessary procedures and end up with a big bill. It is going to a shop that has been around a long time, but I have had no experience with them and I would appreciate some prior knowledge. Thanks, John
WSTEFFENS posted 10-26-2004 12:42 PM ET (US)
John:
Your gas consumption is consistent with my experience with 150-HP V6 engines. Yes, they aren't the most cost effective motors ever built but very dependable. I would have you dealer replace all fuel and vacuum hoses and clamps on the VRO system. Most power heads are "lost" to bad hose connections in the system. The VRO got a bad "rap" due to bad or poor maintence. It is a dumb donkey, pure mechanical and very simple. However it is on the line of a computer, GABGO (garbage in, garbage out). I assume you are running a external fuel filter/water separator. If you haven't done it already, rebuild the fuel pump and change the filter in the engine housing. Your ignition is pure electronic. It is powered by a reluctor coil under the flywheel. It is triggerd by the magnets in the flywheel.
Before you put it up, get a "west coast" salmon for me!
Best
WLS
LHG posted 10-26-2004 01:03 PM ET (US)
The 200 is the same 3.0 liter engine as the popular (at least around here) 225 OMC. You might search out some of the maintenance/repair discussion on the 225 OMC's.
newt posted 10-26-2004 03:28 PM ET (US)
Don't forget to grease the steering arm, tilt tube, trailer lock, control linkages, cowling latches, starter shaft, prop shaft etc, and spray everything with corrosion inhibitor.
newt posted 10-26-2004 03:29 PM ET (US)
One more thing. Do a de-carb since you don't know when it was done before. Or better yet, do the de-carb in the spring after you burn off the fogging oil.
JMARTIN posted 10-26-2004 06:04 PM ET (US)
Thank you for the info. I did a search on the 225 OMC and the VRO and feel more confident in what to tell the repair guy to look for and do. Looks like if I take care of "old smokey" it will last a long time. Also, I turn about 5400 rpm at WOT. I think I am propped pretty good. Speed has never been important to me. Neither is hole shot. In Puget Sound, the conditions change around every island and there is alot of stuff to avoid. Some stuff, like waterlogged logs, you never see. I just want to get onto plane and stay there in many different sea conditions. If the conditions are calm, then I want fuel economy. Getting there is 1/2 the fun for me. As dismal as fishing was this summer, I did get into a Chinook on the last day of September and we limited on Coho the last two times out in October. It is alot more fun to pull into the dock with scales and blood on the deck. Especially when the other boats are "clean". Thanks again guys. John
WSTEFFENS posted 10-26-2004 06:25 PM ET (US)
John:
"Old Smokey" is a very dependible friend. Take care of him and he will give you more hours than you can emagine.
Yea coming home with scales and blood and a real good catch is a hoot. And Just think, all you have to do is "hose" off the deck and you are done!
A thought, do salt water salmon "slime" up as do "fresh water Pike"? When you land a "pike" it seems to get "greasy" and slime up the boat. Just wondedring as I never fished for salt water salmon!
Later
WLS
Peter posted 10-26-2004 06:28 PM ET (US)
If after you do all your basic maintenance items including a decarb and your motor is still only turning 5400 RPM at WOT, it couldn't hurt to drop down 2 inches of pitch and get the revs up to about 5800 at WOT. WOT operating range for that motor is 5000 to 6000 and its always better to be on the high half of that range than the low half. Contrary to what many believe, fuel economy doesn't necessarily improve because the revs are lower for a given boat speed.
JMARTIN posted 10-26-2004 07:53 PM ET (US)
Jeepers, did not want to get into props, but I will take the advice and check out what I got now and what rpm's are at WOT after service. Will not be untill next year unless I get antsy. If I can learn how to winterize myself, why not just put in for a nice day before the actual season? A spare prop is on the wish list, and should be on the boat. The kicker would be a long trip home if I dinged out the prop on the main. The salmon do not seem to me to get any slimeier, they are slppery, but I would not say that they leave slime on the boat, like a slug or something. Will have to check it out. John
jimh posted 10-27-2004 12:48 AM ET (US)
I would recommend you get the owner's manual for that engine. I have a 1992 Evinrude 225-HP. I find the owner's manuals published by OMC to very complete and filled with extensive information. There is also a very elaborate shop service manual available, too. These publications are very thorough and well illustrated. They will give you complete information about lubrication and winterization.
Your engine has a very convenient service port built into it for introducing fogging oil into the carburetors. You purchase an aerosol can of fogging oil with a mating fitting, screw the connection onto the valve on the power head, and very simply and easily fog the engine. This is vastly superior to the other brands where you have to remove air shrouds and spray oil into the throats of the carburetors, doing them one at a time.
I don't know if complete replacement off all rubber hose under the cowling is quite routine. On my 1992 engine most everything looked good. I had the engine checked by a very good OMC mechanic. He did perform a de-carbon procedure and checked the carburetor linkage synchronization. There are six barrels of carburetors, and you want them properly linked and opening in sequence as specified.
I recommend using some fuel additive peridocally to avoid carbon build up. I have been using the OMC-brand oil after I noticed the engine seemed to run quite poorly with some no-brand TWC-III oil I had on hand. My dealer sells it for about $11/gallon, so it is not terribly more expensive than the no-brand ($6/gallon) plus additives (at $5-8 a bottle).
There is much uninformed opinion about OMC bandied about, but after owning a 1992 V-6 for six months, I am quite satisfied with mine. I anticipate it will run for many years with proper care. I am sure yours will, too.
David Ratusnik posted 10-27-2004 07:52 AM ET (US)
JMartin-- Great engine. Ran an '86 for over 1,000 hrs. And, I beat on it. Couldn't seriously break it. In my experience 200 hrs is just broken in. Since it's a '92 I'd have the mechanic test up the coils before next season. Beyond dependability, these OMC V6's are the least expensive of the big engines to maintain. Generally, parts are way less expensive than for the imports, e.g., approx $25 per coil versus $85 per coil for a Yamaha. Good luck David
Peter posted 10-27-2004 07:53 AM ET (US)
John, Jim also gives good advice on checking the sync 'n link. It's a fairly easy procedure that you might want your mechanic to do so you know the motor is up to specification.

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Author	Topic: Owner-Performed Service: 1992 OMC 200 HP
JMARTIN	posted 10-26-2004 12:11 PM ET (US) Going to take my 1992 Evinrude 200 into the shop for a service/winterization. I have no knowledge of what has been done to the motor in the past. I think it only has about 200 hours on it. It smokes quite a bit at idle, it is loud and loves the gasoline, but I think that is normal. Other than that, it runs fine. It is on a 1983 V-22 Revenge and I average about 9 gallons an hour at cruise which is 3500 rpm. According to the GPS I am doing about 26 to 28 mph at cruise. WOT can get to 40 mph, but I seldom run at WOT, only for about a minute every 3rd or 4th trip out. The GPS figures are one direction only, not a true test of speed. Salt water running only. On my list so far is: Change gear lube, zinc, plugs, water pump, thermostats, and winterize. What am I missing? Are there some filters to be changed? Should the oil system be checked and/or adjusted? Should it have a decarbonization done? Forgive my ignorance, but does it have an electronic ignition or points to be adjusted or replaced? How about the carburetors, I assume it does not have carbs, not fuel injection. Should I have them do a compression test? I could tell them to treat it like it was thier motor and do what is needed to keep it running well, but I do not want them to do unecessary procedures and end up with a big bill. It is going to a shop that has been around a long time, but I have had no experience with them and I would appreciate some prior knowledge. Thanks, John
WSTEFFENS	posted 10-26-2004 12:42 PM ET (US) John: Your gas consumption is consistent with my experience with 150-HP V6 engines. Yes, they aren't the most cost effective motors ever built but very dependable. I would have you dealer replace all fuel and vacuum hoses and clamps on the VRO system. Most power heads are "lost" to bad hose connections in the system. The VRO got a bad "rap" due to bad or poor maintence. It is a dumb donkey, pure mechanical and very simple. However it is on the line of a computer, GABGO (garbage in, garbage out). I assume you are running a external fuel filter/water separator. If you haven't done it already, rebuild the fuel pump and change the filter in the engine housing. Your ignition is pure electronic. It is powered by a reluctor coil under the flywheel. It is triggerd by the magnets in the flywheel. Before you put it up, get a "west coast" salmon for me! Best WLS
LHG	posted 10-26-2004 01:03 PM ET (US) The 200 is the same 3.0 liter engine as the popular (at least around here) 225 OMC. You might search out some of the maintenance/repair discussion on the 225 OMC's.
newt	posted 10-26-2004 03:28 PM ET (US) Don't forget to grease the steering arm, tilt tube, trailer lock, control linkages, cowling latches, starter shaft, prop shaft etc, and spray everything with corrosion inhibitor.
newt	posted 10-26-2004 03:29 PM ET (US) One more thing. Do a de-carb since you don't know when it was done before. Or better yet, do the de-carb in the spring after you burn off the fogging oil.
JMARTIN	posted 10-26-2004 06:04 PM ET (US) Thank you for the info. I did a search on the 225 OMC and the VRO and feel more confident in what to tell the repair guy to look for and do. Looks like if I take care of "old smokey" it will last a long time. Also, I turn about 5400 rpm at WOT. I think I am propped pretty good. Speed has never been important to me. Neither is hole shot. In Puget Sound, the conditions change around every island and there is alot of stuff to avoid. Some stuff, like waterlogged logs, you never see. I just want to get onto plane and stay there in many different sea conditions. If the conditions are calm, then I want fuel economy. Getting there is 1/2 the fun for me. As dismal as fishing was this summer, I did get into a Chinook on the last day of September and we limited on Coho the last two times out in October. It is alot more fun to pull into the dock with scales and blood on the deck. Especially when the other boats are "clean". Thanks again guys. John
WSTEFFENS	posted 10-26-2004 06:25 PM ET (US) John: "Old Smokey" is a very dependible friend. Take care of him and he will give you more hours than you can emagine. Yea coming home with scales and blood and a real good catch is a hoot. And Just think, all you have to do is "hose" off the deck and you are done! A thought, do salt water salmon "slime" up as do "fresh water Pike"? When you land a "pike" it seems to get "greasy" and slime up the boat. Just wondedring as I never fished for salt water salmon! Later WLS
Peter	posted 10-26-2004 06:28 PM ET (US) If after you do all your basic maintenance items including a decarb and your motor is still only turning 5400 RPM at WOT, it couldn't hurt to drop down 2 inches of pitch and get the revs up to about 5800 at WOT. WOT operating range for that motor is 5000 to 6000 and its always better to be on the high half of that range than the low half. Contrary to what many believe, fuel economy doesn't necessarily improve because the revs are lower for a given boat speed.
JMARTIN	posted 10-26-2004 07:53 PM ET (US) Jeepers, did not want to get into props, but I will take the advice and check out what I got now and what rpm's are at WOT after service. Will not be untill next year unless I get antsy. If I can learn how to winterize myself, why not just put in for a nice day before the actual season? A spare prop is on the wish list, and should be on the boat. The kicker would be a long trip home if I dinged out the prop on the main. The salmon do not seem to me to get any slimeier, they are slppery, but I would not say that they leave slime on the boat, like a slug or something. Will have to check it out. John
jimh	posted 10-27-2004 12:48 AM ET (US) I would recommend you get the owner's manual for that engine. I have a 1992 Evinrude 225-HP. I find the owner's manuals published by OMC to very complete and filled with extensive information. There is also a very elaborate shop service manual available, too. These publications are very thorough and well illustrated. They will give you complete information about lubrication and winterization. Your engine has a very convenient service port built into it for introducing fogging oil into the carburetors. You purchase an aerosol can of fogging oil with a mating fitting, screw the connection onto the valve on the power head, and very simply and easily fog the engine. This is vastly superior to the other brands where you have to remove air shrouds and spray oil into the throats of the carburetors, doing them one at a time. I don't know if complete replacement off all rubber hose under the cowling is quite routine. On my 1992 engine most everything looked good. I had the engine checked by a very good OMC mechanic. He did perform a de-carbon procedure and checked the carburetor linkage synchronization. There are six barrels of carburetors, and you want them properly linked and opening in sequence as specified. I recommend using some fuel additive peridocally to avoid carbon build up. I have been using the OMC-brand oil after I noticed the engine seemed to run quite poorly with some no-brand TWC-III oil I had on hand. My dealer sells it for about $11/gallon, so it is not terribly more expensive than the no-brand ($6/gallon) plus additives (at $5-8 a bottle). There is much uninformed opinion about OMC bandied about, but after owning a 1992 V-6 for six months, I am quite satisfied with mine. I anticipate it will run for many years with proper care. I am sure yours will, too.
David Ratusnik	posted 10-27-2004 07:52 AM ET (US) JMartin-- Great engine. Ran an '86 for over 1,000 hrs. And, I beat on it. Couldn't seriously break it. In my experience 200 hrs is just broken in. Since it's a '92 I'd have the mechanic test up the coils before next season. Beyond dependability, these OMC V6's are the least expensive of the big engines to maintain. Generally, parts are way less expensive than for the imports, e.g., approx $25 per coil versus $85 per coil for a Yamaha. Good luck David
Peter	posted 10-27-2004 07:53 AM ET (US) John, Jim also gives good advice on checking the sync 'n link. It's a fairly easy procedure that you might want your mechanic to do so you know the motor is up to specification.