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Author Topic:   jack-plate

sport posted 12-15-2004 08:18 AM ET (US)
Have 1979 17 foot sport and new 90 Yamaha 4-stroke. Don't
want to drill holes in transom to mount new motor.Thinking
of a small jack-plate. The prop should neither be a 17 or 19, which one??? I'd apprecite your suggestions.
JBCornwell posted 12-15-2004 08:58 AM ET (US)
Put it on a 4" setback plate, Sport.
CMC makes a good one, and the installation is quite clean and sanitary.
If you E me I have pix of my DF70 installation on a '80 Montauk.
Red sky at night. . .
JB
Bayoumontauk posted 12-15-2004 09:26 PM ET (US)
Let me know what kind of performance you get with this set up. I have a 96 montauk and going through a repower/jackplate decision. Any additional data I can get will be a plus. For the record though, everyone seems to like the CMC for the 17 hull.
nFL_Bosn69 posted 12-16-2004 10:27 AM ET (US)
Wouldn't using a setback/jack plate still require drilling holes for mounting?
Ryan
kingfish posted 12-16-2004 10:59 AM ET (US)
Thanks Ryan - I've been trying to get my mind around that one too...
JBCornwell posted 12-16-2004 01:01 PM ET (US)
Hi, Ryan.
Yes. You drill holes in the plate, not the transom.
Drill the "forward" plate to match the holes that are already in the transom, drill the "aft" plate to match the engine you are mounting.
VIOLA!! No new holes in the transom. :)
Red sky at night. . .
JB
ratherwhalering posted 12-16-2004 01:21 PM ET (US)
Ryan: It may, depending on your current set up. If your engine is mounted to the transom usung "blind holes" (meaning the lower bolts thread directly into the engine bracket itself, without a nut) then you can simply drill these holes in the set-back brackets themselves.
If your engine is currently mounted using the lower, slotted holes, the set back brackets will bolt right on the the transom without modification. (Note, this set-up typically has the engine mounted on the second or third set of upper holes, raising the engine on the transom so that the lower, sliding holes fit inside the splashwell.)
I have a CMC 4" set back plates, the two piece adjustable manual on a 17-Montauk with a 2004 Evinrude E-TEC 90. I installed the set back brackets myself. The brackets do not come pre-drilled for lower blind holes, but modification is not too difficult. The upper mounting holes line-up perfectly, so...
1. Equalize the verticle adjustment on the two set-back brackets and tighten 'em down.
2. Mount the brackets to the engine, using the standard mounting holes in the bracket, and on the engine's mounting plate. These should match up perfectly.
3. Mount the brackets to the transom, using only the upper mounting holes. Center the ENGINE on the transom. (Measure everything, twice, because there can be a bit of "play" in the upper mounting holes.)
4. Using the lower mounting bolts, stick them from the splashwell, through the transom, and score (mark) where you want your blind hole mounts in the set-back brackets. 5. Remove the brackets/engine from the transom, and drill the blind hole mounts in the bracket.
6. Reinstall.
Note: if you have access to a 90-degree power drill, you can skip steps 4-6 by inserting a 1/2-inch drill bit into the transom holes, attach it to the drill, and just drilling out the brackets from the splashwell. The reason you have to go through steps 4-6 is because an ordinary, long drill won't fit in the splashwell.
ratherwhalering posted 12-16-2004 01:26 PM ET (US)
By the way, I called CMC a while ago and begged them to fabricate some set-back brackets with pre-drilled blind holes. They can't do it without some major modifications to their current cutting/fabrication system, and were understandably reluctant to do so.
sport posted 12-16-2004 03:30 PM ET (US)
Ryan
What cmc jack platr did you use? Is it the cmc manual 65?
Thanks sport

zotcha posted 12-17-2004 06:31 AM ET (US)
Ratherwhalering, how do you like your E-tec? Looking at a 4 stroke 60 Yammi for my 15', but have not ruled out waiting for the E-tec 70. Also, are there any reasons I should be considering a jack plate for my application? Thanks, zotcha.
ratherwhalering posted 12-20-2004 01:46 PM ET (US)
I am very pleased with the E-TEC and its performance. I installed the set back brackets because my 1987 Johnson 90HP was mounted using the blind holes, and the E-TEC did not come with these mounting configurations. Instead of patching the transom and re-drilling new holes, I decided to add the set back brackets.
On a different note, I'd like to clarify that I have "set back brackets". Typically, jack plates are two parallel “plates” that allow for hydraulic (or manual) vertical adjustment. The plates are separated by the several inches. Between the two plates is the mechanism for vertical adjustment. Vertical adjustment is achieved without the need for removal of the engine from the plate, or the plate from the transom.
Set back brackets are two pieces, and traditionally used for achieving space between the transom and the engine. Set back brackets typically allow for vertical adjustment using different mounting holes in the brackets. One can mount the brackets higher (or lower) on the transom, or the engine higher (or lower) on the brackets to achieve the desired vertical adjustment. This requires more effort, as adjustment is only accomplished by relocation of engine and mounting hardware.
CMC offers a hybrid, whereby vertical adjustment is achieved by adding 5" of slot adjustment between the motor mounting brackets and the transom brackets. In essence, it is 4 pieces. There is no mechanism for vertical adjustment between the two brackets, just some big ole’ bolts that hold the brackets in place once the desired height is achieved. I adjust my height by placing a block of wood under the skeg, while the boat is on the trailer, and using the tongue jack to raise/lower the transom, and this sliding the brackets up or down in the slot adjustment.
Sorry to be so specific, but I thought it would be nice to have an understanding between the two.
nFL_Bosn69 posted 12-20-2004 03:58 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the explanation, JB.
I currently have no jackplate, but have been looking into installing a PT130 on my classic 13, so have been trolling the jackplate threads looking "set-ups" information. The no drilling part just threw me for a loop, but JB's addition of "VIOLA!! No new holes in the transom. :)" cleared up my confusion. I had forgotten that the newer hulls came predrilled from the factory.
Ryan
ryanwhaler posted 12-20-2004 11:56 PM ET (US)
Here's a pict of JB's installation .
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ryanwhaler/Album-1/DSCF0302.jpg
SSCH posted 12-21-2004 08:06 AM ET (US)
Here's and alternative to the CMC plate.
http://www.bobsmachine.com/
Look at the jack plate listings. One is a manual light weight plate for under 40 hp engines. The Converible plate is the 4 in 1 I have. You will notice some website errors in the descriptions. Don't let that fool you. The 4 in 1 is manual, not hydrualic.
I've got the 4 in 1 plate on my 15. It seems to work just fine and has a lot of options you can try until you find the one you like. Bob also has a lot of low water pick up tricks for flats boats. The jack plate comes anodized flat black. All hardware is stainless. Everything was machined well.
dawgpaddle posted 12-21-2004 11:59 AM ET (US)
Has anybody tried the #65213, a two and one-half inch Set-Back plate from Cook Mfg Corp for attaching a modern motor to a classic whaler?

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Author	Topic: jack-plate
sport	posted 12-15-2004 08:18 AM ET (US) Have 1979 17 foot sport and new 90 Yamaha 4-stroke. Don't want to drill holes in transom to mount new motor.Thinking of a small jack-plate. The prop should neither be a 17 or 19, which one??? I'd apprecite your suggestions.
JBCornwell	posted 12-15-2004 08:58 AM ET (US) Put it on a 4" setback plate, Sport. CMC makes a good one, and the installation is quite clean and sanitary. If you E me I have pix of my DF70 installation on a '80 Montauk. Red sky at night. . . JB
Bayoumontauk	posted 12-15-2004 09:26 PM ET (US) Let me know what kind of performance you get with this set up. I have a 96 montauk and going through a repower/jackplate decision. Any additional data I can get will be a plus. For the record though, everyone seems to like the CMC for the 17 hull.
nFL_Bosn69	posted 12-16-2004 10:27 AM ET (US) Wouldn't using a setback/jack plate still require drilling holes for mounting? Ryan
kingfish	posted 12-16-2004 10:59 AM ET (US) Thanks Ryan - I've been trying to get my mind around that one too...
JBCornwell	posted 12-16-2004 01:01 PM ET (US) Hi, Ryan. Yes. You drill holes in the plate, not the transom. Drill the "forward" plate to match the holes that are already in the transom, drill the "aft" plate to match the engine you are mounting. VIOLA!! No new holes in the transom. :) Red sky at night. . . JB
ratherwhalering	posted 12-16-2004 01:21 PM ET (US) Ryan: It may, depending on your current set up. If your engine is mounted to the transom usung "blind holes" (meaning the lower bolts thread directly into the engine bracket itself, without a nut) then you can simply drill these holes in the set-back brackets themselves. If your engine is currently mounted using the lower, slotted holes, the set back brackets will bolt right on the the transom without modification. (Note, this set-up typically has the engine mounted on the second or third set of upper holes, raising the engine on the transom so that the lower, sliding holes fit inside the splashwell.) I have a CMC 4" set back plates, the two piece adjustable manual on a 17-Montauk with a 2004 Evinrude E-TEC 90. I installed the set back brackets myself. The brackets do not come pre-drilled for lower blind holes, but modification is not too difficult. The upper mounting holes line-up perfectly, so... 1. Equalize the verticle adjustment on the two set-back brackets and tighten 'em down. 2. Mount the brackets to the engine, using the standard mounting holes in the bracket, and on the engine's mounting plate. These should match up perfectly. 3. Mount the brackets to the transom, using only the upper mounting holes. Center the ENGINE on the transom. (Measure everything, twice, because there can be a bit of "play" in the upper mounting holes.) 4. Using the lower mounting bolts, stick them from the splashwell, through the transom, and score (mark) where you want your blind hole mounts in the set-back brackets. 5. Remove the brackets/engine from the transom, and drill the blind hole mounts in the bracket. 6. Reinstall. Note: if you have access to a 90-degree power drill, you can skip steps 4-6 by inserting a 1/2-inch drill bit into the transom holes, attach it to the drill, and just drilling out the brackets from the splashwell. The reason you have to go through steps 4-6 is because an ordinary, long drill won't fit in the splashwell.
ratherwhalering	posted 12-16-2004 01:26 PM ET (US) By the way, I called CMC a while ago and begged them to fabricate some set-back brackets with pre-drilled blind holes. They can't do it without some major modifications to their current cutting/fabrication system, and were understandably reluctant to do so.
sport	posted 12-16-2004 03:30 PM ET (US) Ryan What cmc jack platr did you use? Is it the cmc manual 65? Thanks sport
zotcha	posted 12-17-2004 06:31 AM ET (US) Ratherwhalering, how do you like your E-tec? Looking at a 4 stroke 60 Yammi for my 15', but have not ruled out waiting for the E-tec 70. Also, are there any reasons I should be considering a jack plate for my application? Thanks, zotcha.
ratherwhalering	posted 12-20-2004 01:46 PM ET (US) I am very pleased with the E-TEC and its performance. I installed the set back brackets because my 1987 Johnson 90HP was mounted using the blind holes, and the E-TEC did not come with these mounting configurations. Instead of patching the transom and re-drilling new holes, I decided to add the set back brackets. On a different note, I'd like to clarify that I have "set back brackets". Typically, jack plates are two parallel “plates” that allow for hydraulic (or manual) vertical adjustment. The plates are separated by the several inches. Between the two plates is the mechanism for vertical adjustment. Vertical adjustment is achieved without the need for removal of the engine from the plate, or the plate from the transom. Set back brackets are two pieces, and traditionally used for achieving space between the transom and the engine. Set back brackets typically allow for vertical adjustment using different mounting holes in the brackets. One can mount the brackets higher (or lower) on the transom, or the engine higher (or lower) on the brackets to achieve the desired vertical adjustment. This requires more effort, as adjustment is only accomplished by relocation of engine and mounting hardware. CMC offers a hybrid, whereby vertical adjustment is achieved by adding 5" of slot adjustment between the motor mounting brackets and the transom brackets. In essence, it is 4 pieces. There is no mechanism for vertical adjustment between the two brackets, just some big ole’ bolts that hold the brackets in place once the desired height is achieved. I adjust my height by placing a block of wood under the skeg, while the boat is on the trailer, and using the tongue jack to raise/lower the transom, and this sliding the brackets up or down in the slot adjustment. Sorry to be so specific, but I thought it would be nice to have an understanding between the two.
nFL_Bosn69	posted 12-20-2004 03:58 PM ET (US) Thanks for the explanation, JB. I currently have no jackplate, but have been looking into installing a PT130 on my classic 13, so have been trolling the jackplate threads looking "set-ups" information. The no drilling part just threw me for a loop, but JB's addition of "VIOLA!! No new holes in the transom. :)" cleared up my confusion. I had forgotten that the newer hulls came predrilled from the factory. Ryan
ryanwhaler	posted 12-20-2004 11:56 PM ET (US) Here's a pict of JB's installation . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/ryanwhaler/Album-1/DSCF0302.jpg
SSCH	posted 12-21-2004 08:06 AM ET (US) Here's and alternative to the CMC plate. http://www.bobsmachine.com/ Look at the jack plate listings. One is a manual light weight plate for under 40 hp engines. The Converible plate is the 4 in 1 I have. You will notice some website errors in the descriptions. Don't let that fool you. The 4 in 1 is manual, not hydrualic. I've got the 4 in 1 plate on my 15. It seems to work just fine and has a lot of options you can try until you find the one you like. Bob also has a lot of low water pick up tricks for flats boats. The jack plate comes anodized flat black. All hardware is stainless. Everything was machined well.
dawgpaddle	posted 12-21-2004 11:59 AM ET (US) Has anybody tried the #65213, a two and one-half inch Set-Back plate from Cook Mfg Corp for attaching a modern motor to a classic whaler?