posted 10-23-2005 06:24 PM ET (US)        

[Are MORSE brand cables better than YAMAHA brand cables?]

Picking up the new [90-HP YAMAHA] engine from the shipper tomorrow. Ordered 90 OB. tac kit, switch kit, wire kit, single console mount control, and a 17 pich prop.
This is going to be instaled on a 1982 [BOSTON WHALER MONTAUK 17], will rewire and straighten out a few things, new switches for lights etc.
I know and have read on mounting heights. Any other pitfalls or pointers to give if you have done the intall????

posted 10-23-2005 09:36 PM ET (US)            

All the best with the install,

David

posted 10-23-2005 10:57 PM ET (US)            

You should receive a detailed instruction manual which will provide you with all the information you need. If you do not, make inquiry with your dealer.

BOMBARDIER, for example, publishes a very detailed and thorough guide to installation of their engines. This publication has dozens of illustrations and runs on for 50 pages or more. It answers all your questions.

posted 10-24-2005 08:57 AM ET (US)            

The literature that comes with all of those rigging components is kind of vague. As far as the engine main wiring its all kind of plug and play. The harness's only fit one way.

Most of the time the engine control cables end up being the same length as the boat. Yours will be in the 16-18ft range. Yamaha and Morse cables are the same. Either will work and I don't see any significant cost difference between them. Morse are red jacketed and Yamaha's are blue. They match the engine color if that matters to you.....

Whoever sold you the engine should be able to provide you with any additional rigging info that you need. If you run into a snag, please feel free to email me at andyjr@shipyardisland.com and I will be happy to answer any questions that you have.

One pointer....I have re-powered several Montauks and as a pre-cautionary measure we will fabricate larger backing washers for the insides of the engine mounting bolts. The washers provided with the engines I think are to small of a OD and when the bolts are tightened, they tend to suck in the supplied flat washers into the transom a bit. A larger OD washer will help spread this load out more. I have gone as large as 4" round. 5\16" alunminum works well for freshwater applications. We will cut the backing washers out of plate with a 4-1\2" hole saw, use the plug as the washer and then finish the edges off with sanders down to a 400 grit finish.

As far as Yamaha service manuals are concerned.....been selling those since I have been a dealer. There are also no rules on not selling them to owners. Who ever told you that was mis-informed.

Andy

posted 10-24-2005 10:54 AM ET (US)            

--the dealer was lying. In this case Yamaha ought to screen their dealers and choose more reputable people.

--the dealer was misinformed. In this case Yamaha ought to train their dealers and better inform them.

--the dealer was correct. The policy at that time was as the dealer stated. It apparently has since been changed.

I solved the problem by buying an aftermarket service manual. I found a decent Yamaha dealer several hundred miles away who would sell me the parts I needed. I then took the motor to my local Mercury dealer for service on the gear case. He was very familiar with it because the gear case was an exact duplicate of the Mercury gear case. In fact, he used a Mercury part to fix it because it was half the price of the Yamaha part, which was identical. The power head needed service, but he was familiar with it, too, because it was extraordinarily similar to the OMC three-cylinder engine of that era. In fact, I believe that it was so similar that Yamaha was sued by OMC and had to make a substantial financial settlement with them to continue production of the motor.

posted 10-24-2005 12:52 PM ET (US)            

I can't vouch for what your Yamaha dealer told you 5 years ago. Currently you can purchase Yamaha OEM manuals right on the Yamaha retail website. Been that way for a year or so.

First I have heard of any OMC\Yamaha lawsuit. I am not saying it did not happen but can you point to any factual info besides "thats what I heard" ?

We are dealers for Mercury and Yamaha. I have never tried to subsitute parts from one manuafctuer to another. Mercury parts are not any cheaper then Yamaha parts that I know of (similar part to similar part) and certainly not for me enough cost difference to justify using a Merc part in a Yamaha or vice versa.

When you purchase an engine from a Yamaha dealer the engine comes with no rigging instructions. Just the owners manual. No significant rigging info in this owners manual either. What I posted was a suggestion for the owner to contact his selling dealer for his specific rigging questions.

A suggestion......5200, 4200 or 101 3M sealant is without a doubt the preferred choice for outboard engine bolts sealing. Don't worry about not ever getting them off if needed.....they are bolts...........a turn or two with a rachet\socket and they are broken free and will spin out. Silicone sealant is not reccomended for under water use. IE.....lower engine bolts.

Andy

posted 10-24-2005 01:18 PM ET (US)         

I can't speak for the 90 HP, but I installed a 1999 Yamaha 50 HP 4-stroke on a 1983 Montauk, and the engine’s lower mounting holes were too low to clear the hull inner splash well. I didn’t want to use blind holes and lag bolts, so I drilled another set of holes into the engine mounting brackets. I disassembled the engine brackets and drilled them carefully with a drill press, but my motor was used. I wouldn’t go that route with a new engine, and would instead use a set of aftermarket adjustable setback brackets, available from companies that make jack plates.

The only downside to the setback brackets is moving the engine weight further aft. If you have a 2-stroke, then it’s lighter weight means the setback effect is less significant. The 2-stroke 90 and 4-stroke 50 are with 10 pounds of each other, and the static trim of my boat is excellent.

I read several posts here about what length throttle/shift cables to use and went with 18 ft. ones, which I’m not real happy with. I would go longer (or shorter, depending upon how the cables are routed) if I had to do it again. Remember that if you use a setback bracket, all connections to the engine will be further back. The standard length 16 ft. main (10 pin) electrical cable was barely long enough. I believe you can buy a 6.6 foot extension. The standard tachometer and power trim cables are 22 to 23 feet long and work fine.

posted 10-25-2005 06:39 PM ET (US)            

The 2005 version Yamaha rigging guide is part number LIT-18865-00-06 . Its thicker this year because of the new Yamaha Command link info that is included. I gotta take it home for some on the "pot" reading :^)

If they through in the service manuals with new engines...what would I be able to sell them then? jk

Andy