OUTRAGE 18: Owner Added Hull Strakes - Moderated Discussion Areas

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Author Topic:   OUTRAGE 18: Owner Added Hull Strakes

kamie posted 03-12-2006 09:34 AM ET (US)
I may have actually found some or all of the missing top end MPH from my performance numbers on Evenstar. The boat has bottom paint which is in sad condition and a t-top but the previous owner also installed 2X4s on the hull bottom in front of the transducers. I don't have the boat home but I did find a photo showing them. I assume they are attached with 5200. I am planning on stripping the bottom paint and hopefully try to remove them this spring.
photo of 2X4's
kamie.homeip.net/kamie/html/spring_2006.html
Previous performance discussions
continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/003764.html
Perry posted 03-12-2006 12:59 PM ET (US)
What do the leading edges of the 2x4's look like? Are they cut at an angle so they are tapered or are they cut straight? Either way they probably add drag and should increase performance when removed.
JMARTIN posted 03-12-2006 01:23 PM ET (US)
I am willing to bet that the previous owner had some mighty fine rootster tails from the improper mounting of those transducers. The 2x4s were probably a crummy attempt at fixing the problem. The transducers need to be moved up so they are flush with the bottom. Well, as flush as you can get them and still pointed straight down. John
kamie posted 03-12-2006 01:41 PM ET (US)
If I remember correctly they are cut at an angle. Although not much of one.
I will actually replace the transducers this year. One is no longer hookedup and the other goes to a depth sounder I am replacing.
jimh posted 03-12-2006 02:27 PM ET (US)
Considering that most people talk about fairing their hull surface so the variations are down to about microscopic level, I cannot image that dragging those 2 x 4 bottom appendages around has been helping matters.
kamie posted 03-12-2006 03:26 PM ET (US)
well assuming I can sand them off and clean up the bottom paint I should have a fairly good idea about exactly how helpful dragging those around has been.
Sal A posted 03-12-2006 07:07 PM ET (US)
I bet they act like mini-trim tabs. Be prepared that after you have dialed in your prop, and tinkered with Evenstar's trim, that removal of these 2x4s might make your bow act more stern heavy, and you will have to "tinker" all over again.
I am not saying it is not worth it, but rather it's one of those things where your changing of the first variable will affect another variable, which will affect another variable, and so on...
Tom W Clark posted 03-12-2006 09:10 PM ET (US)
OH MY GOD! Kamie, I don't remember you ever mentioning these 2 x 4 before. I am astounded the previous owner would have done such a thing. That is just wrong, wrong, wrong. GET THEM OFF OF THERE!
I hope you have replaced that propeller with something more substantial since the photo was taken.
kamie posted 03-12-2006 09:21 PM ET (US)
Sal,
I need to tinker all over again anyway as I had the yard raise then engine on the jackplate one more hole. Now when the jackplate is all the way down the cavitation plate should be roughtly equal to the keel rather than an inch below. Wonder if taking them off will have any effect on the tendancy to porpoise?
Tom,
absolutley, that was the original prop and now sits on my front porch as a door stop. There is a shiny four blade offshore on the boat now. I am assuming that the previous owner put them on, well actually I don't have a clue why. He did run the boat off NJ to the canyons at least once a weekend.
Sal A posted 03-13-2006 05:40 AM ET (US)
Wow, the canyons in an eighteen-footer; well if you are going to do it, that's the boat. My thinking is he put them on to get the bow down. I am sure the T-top would catch wind and this was his attempt to counter it? I'd bet it will porpoise some more once you remove them; you may want to have the Tabman's number handy for a set of Bennets. Good luck Kamie.
Bulldog posted 03-13-2006 10:50 AM ET (US)
Kamie, I don't think you will see a huge difference in the porposing, as the boards are really only about 1.5" wide, but as everyone else said get them off!Sounds like you have the jack plate set up good, are you putting in a dock and/or lift at the new house?....Jack
deepwater posted 03-13-2006 06:56 PM ET (US)
hey sal ,, I've had my 17 out to the poormans before and i really picked my day to go,, there is such a calming effect on me out there ,,after mackerel this spring its where I'm going for makos. anyone want to go it will be mid week,one month or the other
kamie posted 03-13-2006 09:54 PM ET (US)
Sal,
I already have my eye on a pair of Lenco tabs, just trying to figure out if 9X12 or 12X12 will fit. I won't know until I pull the boat from the marina.
Jack,
Permits for the new pier were submitted last week and once that is done there is a nice Jet Dock already sitting behind the shed waiting to be installed.
kamie posted 03-20-2006 07:01 AM ET (US)
I added a couple more shots that I took this weekend. Looks like they are stuck on with 5200, at least I hope so. I didn't find any screws.
kamie.homeip.net/kamie/html/spring_2006.html
Estero posted 03-21-2006 11:27 PM ET (US)
I wonder why the previous owner didn't just re-mount the transducer brackets instead of glopping those 2x4s onto the bottom?
No offense intended, but that looks like a pretty hokey workaround.
Estero posted 03-21-2006 11:29 PM ET (US)
Or maybe the strakes came first... either way, you gotta admit it's hokey.
LHG posted 03-22-2006 12:17 AM ET (US)
You'd be better off if your built-in trailer bunks were screwed on. Good luck with 5200! Now I've heard of everything.
ConB posted 03-22-2006 07:27 PM ET (US)
kamie
If I were removing the blocks, I would use a good chisel and slit the blocks off in little pieces. Then get a really good chisel and carefully shave the caulk off the boat bottom.
Con
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-22-2006 07:35 PM ET (US)
I think I'd take a pass down each side as close as I could
get to the boat with my Makita trim saw. That would leave
about a 1/2". Then a power planer as close as I dared, then
a hand plane. Finish with the linoleum knife on the Fein
detail sander.
And don't feel like you have to do the whole job in one day.
Everything you take off there will make it better, as long
as you take about the same amount off both sides.
Is that old transducer as corroded as it looks?

Chuck
Tom W Clark posted 03-22-2006 07:50 PM ET (US)
Uh, it's not going to be that hard to remove those 2 x 4s. Just pry 'em off. I'd use a putty knife to cut the caulk if they didn't just pop off.
The transducer isn't corroded, it encrusted.
Kamie, you'll ned a new anode for the fuel tank too. I recall a thread some time back where John Flook found a source for these OE parts.
kamie posted 03-22-2006 08:26 PM ET (US)
The only thread on the tank anode I could find indicated the new practice is to ground the tank to the battery?
continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/OLD/000129.html
Tom W Clark posted 03-22-2006 08:31 PM ET (US)
kamie,
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005550.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/004837.html
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/003389.html
jechura posted 03-22-2006 08:48 PM ET (US)
Kamie
Don't even think about prying those blocks off if 5200 was used unless you want to do a lot of gel-coating. Ask Bucka about prying off items that were bedded with 5200 .
I suggest a thin blade, flexible putty knife with the corners rounded with the steel that runs threw the handle.
Cut what you can and then start tapping the knife along the 2x4.It will take some time but it will come off without damaging the gel-coat. Even if the board is about ready to fall off, don't pull it, cut that last little piece that is holding it.
Jerry
kamie posted 03-22-2006 09:57 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom,
Jerry, I will take my time with them.

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Author	Topic: OUTRAGE 18: Owner Added Hull Strakes
kamie	posted 03-12-2006 09:34 AM ET (US) I may have actually found some or all of the missing top end MPH from my performance numbers on Evenstar. The boat has bottom paint which is in sad condition and a t-top but the previous owner also installed 2X4s on the hull bottom in front of the transducers. I don't have the boat home but I did find a photo showing them. I assume they are attached with 5200. I am planning on stripping the bottom paint and hopefully try to remove them this spring. photo of 2X4's kamie.homeip.net/kamie/html/spring_2006.html Previous performance discussions continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/003764.html
Perry	posted 03-12-2006 12:59 PM ET (US) What do the leading edges of the 2x4's look like? Are they cut at an angle so they are tapered or are they cut straight? Either way they probably add drag and should increase performance when removed.
JMARTIN	posted 03-12-2006 01:23 PM ET (US) I am willing to bet that the previous owner had some mighty fine rootster tails from the improper mounting of those transducers. The 2x4s were probably a crummy attempt at fixing the problem. The transducers need to be moved up so they are flush with the bottom. Well, as flush as you can get them and still pointed straight down. John
kamie	posted 03-12-2006 01:41 PM ET (US) If I remember correctly they are cut at an angle. Although not much of one. I will actually replace the transducers this year. One is no longer hookedup and the other goes to a depth sounder I am replacing.
jimh	posted 03-12-2006 02:27 PM ET (US) Considering that most people talk about fairing their hull surface so the variations are down to about microscopic level, I cannot image that dragging those 2 x 4 bottom appendages around has been helping matters.
kamie	posted 03-12-2006 03:26 PM ET (US) well assuming I can sand them off and clean up the bottom paint I should have a fairly good idea about exactly how helpful dragging those around has been.
Sal A	posted 03-12-2006 07:07 PM ET (US) I bet they act like mini-trim tabs. Be prepared that after you have dialed in your prop, and tinkered with Evenstar's trim, that removal of these 2x4s might make your bow act more stern heavy, and you will have to "tinker" all over again. I am not saying it is not worth it, but rather it's one of those things where your changing of the first variable will affect another variable, which will affect another variable, and so on...
Tom W Clark	posted 03-12-2006 09:10 PM ET (US) OH MY GOD! Kamie, I don't remember you ever mentioning these 2 x 4 before. I am astounded the previous owner would have done such a thing. That is just wrong, wrong, wrong. GET THEM OFF OF THERE! I hope you have replaced that propeller with something more substantial since the photo was taken.
kamie	posted 03-12-2006 09:21 PM ET (US) Sal, I need to tinker all over again anyway as I had the yard raise then engine on the jackplate one more hole. Now when the jackplate is all the way down the cavitation plate should be roughtly equal to the keel rather than an inch below. Wonder if taking them off will have any effect on the tendancy to porpoise? Tom, absolutley, that was the original prop and now sits on my front porch as a door stop. There is a shiny four blade offshore on the boat now. I am assuming that the previous owner put them on, well actually I don't have a clue why. He did run the boat off NJ to the canyons at least once a weekend.
Sal A	posted 03-13-2006 05:40 AM ET (US) Wow, the canyons in an eighteen-footer; well if you are going to do it, that's the boat. My thinking is he put them on to get the bow down. I am sure the T-top would catch wind and this was his attempt to counter it? I'd bet it will porpoise some more once you remove them; you may want to have the Tabman's number handy for a set of Bennets. Good luck Kamie.
Bulldog	posted 03-13-2006 10:50 AM ET (US) Kamie, I don't think you will see a huge difference in the porposing, as the boards are really only about 1.5" wide, but as everyone else said get them off!Sounds like you have the jack plate set up good, are you putting in a dock and/or lift at the new house?....Jack
deepwater	posted 03-13-2006 06:56 PM ET (US) hey sal ,, I've had my 17 out to the poormans before and i really picked my day to go,, there is such a calming effect on me out there ,,after mackerel this spring its where I'm going for makos. anyone want to go it will be mid week,one month or the other
kamie	posted 03-13-2006 09:54 PM ET (US) Sal, I already have my eye on a pair of Lenco tabs, just trying to figure out if 9X12 or 12X12 will fit. I won't know until I pull the boat from the marina. Jack, Permits for the new pier were submitted last week and once that is done there is a nice Jet Dock already sitting behind the shed waiting to be installed.
kamie	posted 03-20-2006 07:01 AM ET (US) I added a couple more shots that I took this weekend. Looks like they are stuck on with 5200, at least I hope so. I didn't find any screws. kamie.homeip.net/kamie/html/spring_2006.html
Estero	posted 03-21-2006 11:27 PM ET (US) I wonder why the previous owner didn't just re-mount the transducer brackets instead of glopping those 2x4s onto the bottom? No offense intended, but that looks like a pretty hokey workaround.
Estero	posted 03-21-2006 11:29 PM ET (US) Or maybe the strakes came first... either way, you gotta admit it's hokey.
LHG	posted 03-22-2006 12:17 AM ET (US) You'd be better off if your built-in trailer bunks were screwed on. Good luck with 5200! Now I've heard of everything.
ConB	posted 03-22-2006 07:27 PM ET (US) kamie If I were removing the blocks, I would use a good chisel and slit the blocks off in little pieces. Then get a really good chisel and carefully shave the caulk off the boat bottom. Con
Chuck Tribolet	posted 03-22-2006 07:35 PM ET (US) I think I'd take a pass down each side as close as I could get to the boat with my Makita trim saw. That would leave about a 1/2". Then a power planer as close as I dared, then a hand plane. Finish with the linoleum knife on the Fein detail sander. And don't feel like you have to do the whole job in one day. Everything you take off there will make it better, as long as you take about the same amount off both sides. Is that old transducer as corroded as it looks? Chuck
Tom W Clark	posted 03-22-2006 07:50 PM ET (US) Uh, it's not going to be that hard to remove those 2 x 4s. Just pry 'em off. I'd use a putty knife to cut the caulk if they didn't just pop off. The transducer isn't corroded, it encrusted. Kamie, you'll ned a new anode for the fuel tank too. I recall a thread some time back where John Flook found a source for these OE parts.
kamie	posted 03-22-2006 08:26 PM ET (US) The only thread on the tank anode I could find indicated the new practice is to ground the tank to the battery? continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/OLD/000129.html
Tom W Clark	posted 03-22-2006 08:31 PM ET (US) kamie, http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/005550.html http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/004837.html http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/003389.html
jechura	posted 03-22-2006 08:48 PM ET (US) Kamie Don't even think about prying those blocks off if 5200 was used unless you want to do a lot of gel-coating. Ask Bucka about prying off items that were bedded with 5200 . I suggest a thin blade, flexible putty knife with the corners rounded with the steel that runs threw the handle. Cut what you can and then start tapping the knife along the 2x4.It will take some time but it will come off without damaging the gel-coat. Even if the board is about ready to fall off, don't pull it, cut that last little piece that is holding it. Jerry
kamie	posted 03-22-2006 09:57 PM ET (US) Thanks Tom, Jerry, I will take my time with them.