posted 07-05-2006 05:56 PM ET (US)
That is what the marketing department says about their own product.I'm not knocking this prop, I know very little about it - but I would look to more unbiased sources of information about it than those who have financial interest in the product's success.
Incidentally, while Formula 1 cars have many composite components, you will notice that it is these composite components that become shrapnel when they touch each other on the track (or when the car hits the wall).
The engine components and drive train components are made from metal, not plastic. Your propeller is an important component of your boat's drive train.
If you are concerned about damaging the engine, buy an aluminum prop with a rubber hub insert that will sacrifice itself before engine damage occurs. The aluminum prop won't be the strongest, but it also won't snap the moment you touch a sand bottom either.
Finally, Aluminum props cost about $60 to fix if you bend/dent a blade...which is not bad, considering you dont' have the hassle of a lost blade evertime you find bottom, or even if you strike the backside of a wave in a big following sea and ventilate the engine a little.
I have heard (second hand) about someone with the ProPulse who lost two of three blades when the boat became airborne, the prop ventilated and when it hit the water surface, the stress stripped the blades right off.
As Andy mentioned, you're trying to move a 3,000 lb boat/motor/gear combination with a piece of plastic. That's asking a lot at anything above idle speed.
My personal opinion would be to save the prop as a lightweight spare you can keep in the console in case you destroy an aluminum prop...and then go to Michigan Wheel or some other supplier and get a good aluminum prop with the exchangeable, rubber inset hub.