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Author Topic:   2002 Johnson 90-HP Two-stroke
masbama posted 07-10-2006 11:36 AM ET (US)   Profile for masbama   Send Email to masbama  
I love the 2002 Johnson 90-HP two-stroke. It has been trouble free for four years but this past weekend I noticed a minor [probelm]. At no wake speed it sometimes 'hiccups'; feels like I hit something. A quick jerk. Not very noticable but even my buddy said it sounded rough. It also is very hard to start and conks out sometimes when put into gear. Is this a spark plug problem? Or more? Runs perfect at higher RPM.
JBCornwell posted 07-10-2006 12:56 PM ET (US)     Profile for JBCornwell  Send Email to JBCornwell     
Sounds like one or more carbs are starting to gum up the low speed jets, Masbama.

A thorough cleaning should solve it. Be sure to use a manual and follow it exactly.

Red sky at night. . .
JB

boater12 posted 07-10-2006 02:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for boater12  Send Email to boater12     
I was out on a friend's boat last year with a 1998 FICHT that was doing the same thing. I know your model isn't meant to have this problem but it may be worth checking out anyways. Eventually his powerhead completely seized up (while I was out on the boat alone..)and he had to buy a new engine. I guess that the fix would have been an easy one: something was wrong with the fuel bladder and so while it appeared that the engine was getting oil it actually wasn't and it had been running unlubricated, causing the scenario you describe. It was taken to the shop but they didn't check the fuel bladder and the next use, the engine was capoot. Might be worth checking out..that engine was problem free before too.

Best!
Chris

bsmotril posted 07-10-2006 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
Start with the easy things first before pulling the carbs apart. Run a Quick Clean fuel treatment through a tank of fuel, de-carbon the engine (Search this site for SAL's method), and put in some new spark plugs. If you still have problems, then clean the carbs. Also, those motors are prone to run rough if tilted in, or trimmed out at idle speeds. Often they'll run very smooth with the motor trimmed straight up and down level. BillS
masbama posted 07-10-2006 09:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for masbama  Send Email to masbama     
I pre mix and I always err on the side of caution by making sure I don't under pour the oil. I always use 2+4 fuel conditioner in every tank but I will go by the modest steps before I do a carb cleaning job. Thanks!
whalerron posted 07-11-2006 01:02 AM ET (US)     Profile for whalerron  Send Email to whalerron     
Masbama,

I think JBCornwell is right.

I just went through this with my 2002 Johnson 90. It started behaving like yours when I was down in Cape Hatteras with the boat. The motor lost all midrange power and believe me, it was an exciting ride going from idle to an almost instant 3/4 throttle!

3 weeks ago, I removed and completely disassembled the carbs and throttle bodies. I then cleaned every carb passage with Berkeley 2+2 Carb cleaner and compressed air. I put everything back together, adjusted the carbs and the motor starts and runs like new again.

When I inspected the carbs, I didn't find any water in them and I found no gum in any of the larger passages. There may have been gum in the lowspeed jets. The neat thing about the carbs on that motor is that you can access the lowspeed jet in each carb through the carb bowl drains.

Here is my suggestion before you disassemble too much. On each carb, remove the fuel bowl drain plug. Insert the tip of the carb cleaner fluid nozzle through the fuel bowl drain and into the jet. Clean the jet with a squirt of carb cleaner and then with compressed air.

You may need to remove the left and right cowlings to access the lower carb fuel bowl drains. The access to these drains is definitely easier with the cowlings removed.

- Ron

Mass posted 07-12-2006 06:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for Mass  Send Email to Mass     
I did an incredible thing. I walked out to my boat and took the cowling off. I noticed that the bottom left spark plug cable was loose. I jammed it back on and started the engine. Started right up and ran great. I'll give it an ops run on the water this weekend to verify. I need to write a ticket to myself for dumb a**. Thanks to all. One question: the spark plug cable did not weem to fit snug. It would pull back a little bit. Is there some trick or is this normal?
andygere posted 07-12-2006 07:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Loose spark plug boots are fairly common. The simple fix is to snug them onto the plug with an appropriately sized cable tie.
jimh posted 07-12-2006 08:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
I am confused. Are masbama and Mass the same person?
bsmotril posted 07-14-2006 09:09 AM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
Also check inside the boot to be sure the metal clip inside that connects to the plug tip is tight. If it is loose, crimp it tighter with pliers. The cable tie fix is a good one I've not heard of before BillS
masbama posted 07-14-2006 10:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for masbama  Send Email to masbama     
Good advice; thanks!
wilkerd1 posted 07-30-2006 11:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for wilkerd1  Send Email to wilkerd1     
Just wanted to say thank you to Andygere and Mass for the spark plug boot discussion! It just saved me a ton of hassle having to take my boat back to the mechanic (I just got it back).

I don't have a Whaler, but I do have a Johnson 40hp on a Bass Tracker. It started immediately and ran like a top. After fishing for a few, I tried to start the motor and nogo and was about 3 miles down river from the ramp. Uhhh.

I was searching on the net and found this post and figrued I would try the plug boots. Heck, what did I have to loose? Sure fire it worked!!!! After that I've been able to start the motor just fine over and over and over tonight. Even after letting it sit for a little while to test it getting cold again. Worked fine; it did the trick.

Thanks again guys!

-Daniel

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