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  OUTRAGE 20 Tendency to Porpoise

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Author Topic:   OUTRAGE 20 Tendency to Porpoise
chesapeakecharlie posted 07-13-2006 03:06 PM ET (US)   Profile for chesapeakecharlie   Send Email to chesapeakecharlie  
I've had several posts on this site regarding my outrage 20 and how I"m not happy with how it is performing. I am still searching for answers.

The boat is powered by a F150 Yamaha four stroke. Before anyone even tries to tell me the boat is under-powered, they should try to run such a hull with the F150. I could pull three skiiers with it if I wanted to.

The hull PORPOISES. For those who have claimed that an OUTRAGE 20 doesn't porpoise, they either haven't been in such a boat or they don't know what porpoising is. I've owned many boats and have never had one act like this. When I trim the motor the whole way down, you can run in grease flat water without too much porpoising....Any amount of trim up and the hull starts to act like a dolphin. I've had the engine on every hole except the top most hole. I'm gonna try this one tonight. I am currently running a stainless 14.25 X 15P Powertech prop----this is an aggressive prop that is cupped and reported to have very little slip. I can easily achieve 5,900-RPM at WOT. My best fuel burn is less than 3MPG irrespective of the trim or speed of the boat. I've tried using a stingray hydrofoil, but this hasn't helped much if at all.

I"ve read on the yamaha performance pages (available on the Yamaha Marine homepage) that this engine is capable of pushing far heavier hulls over 40MPH and achieves fuel economy in excess of 3.5-4.0 statute miles per gallon.

My questions are as follows:

Does anybody have a 20 classic 'rage with a Yamaha 150 four stroke engine that could provide me with some of their performance info?

Do the classic whaler hulls not plain as well as other more classical V-bottom hulls (modified) that would result in lower fuel economy?

Is it unreasonable to expect over 3 nautical miles per gallon from a 20' outrage that currently has half a tank of gas in it, one passenger and no gear running on flat calm seas?

At WOT I am running about 35 knots and am burning almost 15 gallons per hour. At 4300 rpm I am running about 22 knots and am burning about 9 gallons per hour. At 3000 rpm I am just up on plane and am running at about 10-12 knots and I"m burning 4 gallons per hour.

I could have gotten this kind of economy with a much cheaper and more powerful 2-stroke engine.

I would greatly appreciate anyone's input regarding my Whaler's performance.
I've invested over 30K in this boat over the past 5 months and I sort of expect a bit more from it. If this is the best I can get out of it, there will be a very pretty Outrage/pilothouse for sale in Southern California very soon.

Whaler_bob posted 07-13-2006 07:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whaler_bob    
The old rule with 2 strokes when trip planning was take 10% of your horse power and that will be your max fuel usage at WOT.

Using the old rule- worst case 2 stroke 150hp would burn 15gph.

One would think the newer 4 stroke engines would do better. But, from what I've read here... it seems much of the fuel savings with new engines is at idol or cruise not WOT.

montauk madness posted 07-13-2006 07:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for montauk madness  Send Email to montauk madness     
I can't answer all your questions, but I do have a 1989 20' Outrage with a 200HP 2 stroke Yamaha and it does not porpoise unless I have it way trimmed out and hit some waves. All it takes is trimming it back in a little bit. I usually run the boat trimmed pretty far out.

Jeff

jimh posted 07-13-2006 08:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
There are combinations of boat loading and engine trim that will induce porpoising (a repetitive oscillation of the bow up and down while planing) in any Boston Whaler boat hull. I have operated quite a few different hulls and you can get them all to porpoise. I do agree that some are more prone to it than others.
Buckda posted 07-13-2006 08:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
This phenomenon, in my experience, is generally caused by weight distribution aboard the boat.

I.E. A boat with a heavy motor (such as the F150, or my twin 90 HP E-TECs) is easier to "porpoise" than a boat with a lightweight engine (like my 18 with the single 150 classic 2-stroke Merc).

Additionally, the height of the engine(s) has something to do with this phenomenon.

In my case, I intend to jack my motors up even further to see if I can make it more difficult to create this effect (but when I have two full coolers in the back, you can get it to do it pretty much no matter what!)

Re Fuel usage: No matter what technology you're running, to produce 150 HP, you're going to need about 15 GPH. So WOT economy numbers are generally the same between engine technologies.

The savings (and they are significant) come in the standard, mixed use that we all face. For instance, I don't do a lot of fishing, but I do spend about 45 minutes each way in a No-Wake Zone from the ramp to the big lake. That means 1.5 hours of every trip is spent at idle, generating about 12 MPG Economy (with only one engine running).

That translates to a full 1-2 MPG overall enconomy figure with TWIN engines than for the classic single engine, even though at cruise, I'm only seeing a marginal improvement.

Overall, with that F150, you're likely seeing much better economy figures when taken en totale.

Maybe not - but probably, and for most people.

Add the kind of usage that people like Elaelap here do - i.e. trolling for the denizens of the deep - you're likely to see SIGNIFICANT overall economy boosts.

I saw just such a boost last weekend, when I actually did settle down for some salmon fishing and spent a total of 10 hours in the boat, covering 70 miles and burning 10 gallons of fuel for a whopping 7 MPG economy figure.

I don't know about you, but compared to the 3.1 GPH I got with the old motor pretty much no matter what, and I'll take the 3.8 MPG cruise, 4.5 MPG overall and 7 MPG when trolling; because taken in aggregate, I'm seeing pretty good economy considering.

SO!

If you are indeed selling a restored 20' Outrage with new Yamaha motor, let us know - I'm sure there's someone here who would be glad to take it off your hands!

You just need to dial that puppy in a little and you'll be very happy. That should be a very good combination.

Dave

Shep posted 07-13-2006 08:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Shep  Send Email to Shep     
I'm sure the last thing you want to do is spend more money.... but I'm thinking trim tabs would solve your problem. I just had a pair put on my 230 Outrage and I love them.
DBOutrage17 posted 07-13-2006 11:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for DBOutrage17  Send Email to DBOutrage17     
Didn't this boat start out a BW Revenge model? If weight distribution is so important, maybe that has something to do with it? Is the boat significantly heavier or lighter than it was?
phatwhaler posted 07-13-2006 11:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for phatwhaler  Send Email to phatwhaler     
1. I get 2.89 stat MPG at 4500 RPMs with my 1996 Outrage III. I have to think you should be getting 4 MPG at cruise. The Yamaha website has a Cobia 201 that shows a RPM/Speed/Fuel curve that should be close.

2. Are your batteries under the console or in the splashwell? Moving some weight forward could help your problem.

PW out.

Clark Roberts posted 07-14-2006 07:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for Clark Roberts  Send Email to Clark Roberts     
Check that engine is mounted plumb and try a different prop. Also, did boat porpoise with previous engine? Check that hull has no damage or deformation (like a rocker). Have you recently changed to a different trailer which could have deformed hull? Good luck... Clark... SCN
chesapeakecharlie posted 07-14-2006 11:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for chesapeakecharlie  Send Email to chesapeakecharlie     
Thanks for all of the replys...I do greatly appreciate everyone's wealth of knowledge.

Yes, this boat did begin life as a Revenge W/T and it's been modified to more or less be considered an Outrage. I put a pilot house on it that weighs about 170 pounds----not too much...My engine is heavy---466 pounds, I think. And, I am running with a 45 gallon offshore bait tank mounted about 3 feet in front of the splashwell bulkhead....Lots of weight there for sure; plus 77 gallons of go juice, my fat kiester and whatever tackle I may be dragging out to the tuna grounds.....yes, the boat is heavy in the tail end.

I just finished reading a very comprehensive thread on this site about the porpoising phenomena (much credit to the authors is deserved here). This has given me some ideas as how to reduce my undesirable riding characteristics. I am going to raise the engine to the highest point possible and see what effect that has---it probably will be too high and I kinda expect the prop to loose bite and cavitate too much, but I have to satisfy my own curiosity. I have also ordered a set of Lenco 12X12 tabs. They'll be on the beastie next week if I get time to mount them.

I"m going to try to get some photos of this boat up on the site soon. It's taken a lot of time and money, but she's come out pretty good aesthetically and I think many of the members here would appreciate the time and effort my buddy Mike and I put into revamping this hull.

RJG posted 07-14-2006 11:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for RJG  Send Email to RJG     
I wondered if the aerodynamics of the pilot house had anything to do with it. But I believe the biggest contributor to your problem is that 45 gallon baitwell.
Sal DiMercurio posted 07-14-2006 04:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Sal DiMercurio  Send Email to Sal DiMercurio     
I feel your main culprit is your 45 gallon baitwell just 3' in front of the stern well.
Thats about 380 lbs right there plus a couple batteries at 40 lbs each plus an engine thats over 400 lbs.
To eliminate some of the weight in the stern of my "V"20 outrage, I extended my battery cables to reach the 150 quart ice chest in front of my CC & put 2 group 29s in there at 60 lbs each = 120 lbs & that really cut down on the porpoising.
It's pretty obvious your to heavy at the stern.
My 20 gallon baitwell is in front of the icechest in front of the CC & the extra weight up front makes for a very smooth level ride.
Sal
Bulldog posted 07-14-2006 06:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bulldog  Send Email to Bulldog     
Chuck, I've read somewhere ,possibly in Whaler literature that a Revenge cap weighs about 260 lbs. so the pilot house weight wouldn't be it. I've assumed that in all your testing that the 45 gallon tank was empty as you stated no gear on board, I guess it should be filled as it will be most times. How many batteries do you have in the stern, two? My twin little 70hp engines at 226 lbs each are about the same weight as your single engine. I can get my boat to porpoise, but just trim it back in a bit and it is fine, usually with four people on board I'll run trimmed up a bit about a third of my range. Is the pilot house postioned about where the Revenge helm was, I guess the Revenge Cap's weight being farther front could be a difference, but there are a lot of 20' Outrages out there and that is what you have now. My engines were put on 10" setback brackets by former owner , but I'm not sure what improvement there was and also putting an engine farther back can make the stern weight issue worse...............Jack
jimh posted 07-15-2006 12:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Re adding a 10-inch set back bracket to a Boston Whaler 20-foot hull: this modification reduced the tendency to porpoise in my experience. I attribute that to the the following:

When the hull porpoises, the pivot point of the oscillation is near the stern. When the bow rises, the engines at the stern are lowered slightly. If the engines are set back on brackets, as the bow rises the engines will be lowered even more due to an increase in the lever arm from the pivot point. When the boat is on plane and the engine height is properly set, the anti-ventilation foil on the engine(s) should be running just at the surface. When an oscillating bow rise tries to occur, the anti-ventilation plates will have to be pushed below the surface. There is natural hydrodynamic resistance to this motion, and it tends to dampen the bow rise. This contributes to a reduction in the tendency to porpoise. If the engine is set back further, this resistance to the downward motion of the engines is amplified by the set back distance, and it thus helps retard any oscillation of the bow rise.

highanddry posted 07-15-2006 02:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for highanddry  Send Email to highanddry     
I was having a minor porposing problem with my Nantucket, mostly due to improper trim and to much weight aft. However, a few experiments quickly revealed one of the major contributors was actually the bimini top. If I stowed it--no porposing, if I set it then there was a gentle porposing.

Several things have eliminated it --mostly--even with the bimini set. I added a second Opti battery in the front of the console. I added a second anchor and it's 15 pounds to the forward locker plus another length of chain and rode. Draining the baitwell and stowing more stuff forward also helps. Continued experience with the boat and how it likes to trim has helped also.

Even at the relatively slow (air) speeds boats operate at aerodynamics could upset a fine balance. Your T tops, biminis, other sorts of things could contribute to this condition and especially if running into a wind it is even a worse potential.

chesapeakecharlie posted 07-17-2006 06:08 PM ET (US)     Profile for chesapeakecharlie  Send Email to chesapeakecharlie     
Thanks guys....I neglected to mention above that I have my batteries mounted inside of my pilothouse, about ten feet up from the stern, more or less.

I got to take the boat offshore the other day and was finally pleased to find the following handling characteristics out:

1. Porpoising is still present, but not as noticable when the seas are really sloppy. The boat is pretty rough riding when going into it, but I think this is just the way things will be with the hull design.

2. When going downswell or across swell, life is good. The boat handles well and is quite dry, though the pilothouse really makes it almot impossible for the skipper to get wet. In fact, I was able to sit down in the captain's chair for most of the 30 some odd mile ride back in to the dock and run at 20 knots (seas were pretty sloppy).

3. This rig is a trolling beast. I simply cannot believe how stable the hull is in the water when plowing either up hill, down hill or across swell at about 6-7.5 knots. This makes up for the porpoising tendencies when on plane.

4. Fuel economy is still debatable. I have to calibrate my Navman against my actual fuel burn when I fill the tank this week, so the jury is still out in this department. I think I"m averaging about 3 statute/gallon fully loaded down. Although this is considerably less than what one would be led to believe via reading the Yamaha performance charts, it is good enough for me at the moment. Gas here in SoCal is approaching 3.40/gallon at the pump and I fish mostly by myself----fuel economy is very important to me. I have a few more bugs to deal with, but I'm getting her dialed in slowly.

jimh posted 07-18-2006 12:31 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
highanddry--that is a good point you make about the aerodynamic effects from even a Bimini top.
Livingwater posted 07-18-2006 01:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Livingwater  Send Email to Livingwater     
My Nantucket with the 150 Optimax will porpoise with the Bimini top. The Nantucket runs better with the Bimini top not deployed. The bow is extremely light on the Nantucket and I am looking to install the SE sport Hydrofoil fin on my outboard in the near future to reduce my bow rise and planning speed.
highanddry posted 07-18-2006 02:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for highanddry  Send Email to highanddry     
Not to steal the thread but it applies to the original post as well, Livingwater, I hear you. BUT, have you installed dual batteries and stuff like that yet? We were using the baitwell for ice and drinks and often running around otherwise with it full. Now we use the ice chest forward of the console as intended. I was stacking my tanks and gear behind the baitwell also and now I put it all forward. My wife and dogs--big dogs--like to sit in the back, now that I have gotten them to go forward the porposing is gone. That stupid bimini--I like it up to keep the sun off --but it does make the boat porpose, it aggravates the condition anyways.

I may add the Bennet tabs eventually. They seem like a quality product and an excellent company to do buisness with. I am loath to drill holes in my engine and mount those fins.

Perry posted 07-18-2006 03:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for Perry  Send Email to Perry     
I installed a 100 quart cooler in front of the console of my 190 and put a 50 lb sand bag in the anchor locker. I never had a porpoising problem but I don't have a bimini. I added the weight because I also fell the boat has a light bow. I hope the t-top I am having custom made will not create a porpoising problem.

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