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Author Topic:   Gear Case Lubricant Pumps

Newtauk1 posted 11-10-2006 10:19 PM ET (US)
Do all gear case lubricant pumps [vulgar expression used to mean perform unsatisfactorily]? I will pay a premium price for one that will work more than two seasons.
My application is a basic 2003 Mercury 90-HP two-stroke. All the gear case lubricant pumps seem to fail and are just plain messy.
fishgutz posted 11-10-2006 11:18 PM ET (US)
Get a nice clean dish tub to put under the lower unit when pumping in oil. Have at least 6 heavy paper shop towels at hand. Wear cheap medical exam gloves. That oil is messy and sticky to say the least. It smells bad too. Keep a close eye on the overflow hole. If you spill you can reuse the spilled oil. I use the Merc pump that attaches right to the bottle. Pump slowly. This has worked pretty good for about 10 years now.
Only problem is my lower unit uses about 5/8 to 3/4 of a bottle each change so I've always got a partially filled bottle in my garage or I'm combining some of last year's unused oil with this year's new oil.
It a real pain but it only has to be done once a year.
Tom W Clark posted 11-10-2006 11:21 PM ET (US)
Gear oil pump?! Are you kidding? Just unscrew the plugs and let it drain.
gss036 posted 11-11-2006 12:00 AM ET (US)
I think they are talking about filling the lower unit after it has been drained.
Tom W Clark posted 11-11-2006 12:30 AM ET (US)
Sorry, a weak joke.
You know a gear case doesn't care what brand of pump you use. I have an OMC branded pump that I bought about 20 years ago. It still works just fine.
PeteB88 posted 11-11-2006 12:53 AM ET (US)
Technique - no big deal at all. Once you drain the oil completely, attach the fitting to bottom hole and pump until it comes out the top hole and a few squirts more. Put the top plug in and you should lose only a couple of drops when you remove the fitting and quickly put in the lower plug. I always lay some cardboard down and get an adequate pan to collect the old oil. First time I did it I tried to collect the old oil in a damn pop bottle, that was dumb. Get yourself some good shop rags.
Newtauk1 posted 11-11-2006 02:41 AM ET (US)
Well I guess the answer is "yes" they all stink. I am using a Mercury brand pump now and thought there may be a better pump out there. The Mercury pump seams to be a bit more durable than the generic brands.I place a large plastic oil pan under the lower unit and drain. I usually change the gear oil after fogging down the motor. The gear oil( Mercury Premium) seams to hold up well and usually appears slightly discolored after a season compared to the new oil going in.
fishgutz- I hear ya. My motor uses 22.5oz of gear oil so there is always a partial bottle left over.
Tom W Clark posted 11-11-2006 12:27 PM ET (US)
What exactly is the problem you are having? Done right, you will only spill a few drops. It is quite a simple process and Pete B describes it correctly.
I buy oil in gallon containers and use my pump. I leave the drip pan pan in place after I drain the gearcase and fill the gearcase with new oil. (I use the ubiquitous Rubbermaid brand dish pan to collect the oil.)
Top plug goes in first, then pull the pump's hose and install the lower plug. *If* and oil drips, it drips into the pan that is already there and full of oil.
I then unscrew the pump from the container, pump the residual oil in the pump itself back in to the container and close it.
I put the pump itself back into the zip lock plastic bag where it ALWAYS lives so it it will not be contaminated by dust in my shop and the inevitable oil drips will stay in the bag.
Once the zip lock gets too messy (every few years) I get a new one.
All in all, it is a very simple, clean process.
bsmotril posted 11-11-2006 07:12 PM ET (US)
Are you leaving the top vent screw open while pumping into the bottom screw? Also, if it is much below 70 degrees, it helps tremendously to warm the gear oil first in a hot water bath. BillS
Newtauk1 posted 11-11-2006 09:36 PM ET (US)
Basically the pumps fail after a couple of seasons. As far as the process it is pretty straight forward as everyone has detailed.
jimh posted 11-11-2006 11:11 PM ET (US)
There are better pumps for this application than the $7 plastic variety. See what your professional mechanic is using.
Actually, I have gotten quite a few years of service from my pump. At one point I owned four outboards and it was getting a workout each fall.
ConB posted 11-12-2006 10:01 AM ET (US)
Keeping the oil warm, like Bill says, made the cheapo pump work a lot better for me this year.
Con
Newtauk1 posted 11-12-2006 08:11 PM ET (US)
Jim- good advice to ask the mechanic. I plan on changing gear oil for many years to come and investing in the best possible pump makes sense. The same reason I bought a Whaler.
jgkmmoore posted 11-13-2006 04:55 AM ET (US)
I buy (3) 10 oz tubes and just squirt 'em in.Takes 10 minutes. Why bother with pumps.Gear oil always stinks so bad, I have always used the tubes.I snip all 3 spouts before starting the fill, and stand the tubes up in a coffee can so they are quickly available.Warming the oil first works well.May be marginally more expensive than buying bulk, but I'm into convenience/comfort.Only do it once a year. I usually drain the lower unit just after fogging the motor, for several hours/days.
Newtauk1 posted 11-13-2006 08:35 PM ET (US)
I'll see if the oil is in tubes and try next year. Wha the heck.
bsmotril posted 11-14-2006 06:21 PM ET (US)
It's cheaper in the bottle than the tubes. Also less mess on a big gearcase where you have to switch tubes when it's half filled. BillS
goldstem posted 11-15-2006 11:55 AM ET (US)
I use the cheap pump, with a slight modification: I <remove> the tube from the bottom of the pump that sticks into the bottle. then when I pump I just flip the bottle upside down after screwing the pump on it. the pump works much, much better this way for me.
Chuck Tribolet posted 11-15-2006 12:01 PM ET (US)
Goldstem: doesn't it start sucking air from the bottom (now
pointing up) of the bottle?

Chuck
Florida15 posted 11-15-2006 01:22 PM ET (US)
I've used a $6 Lubrimatic pump that attaches to the oil bottle for about 6 years now. Just a few more years and I will have gotten my money's worth.
goldstem posted 11-17-2006 02:12 PM ET (US)
chuck -
I don't understand your question.... the bottle is upside down with the pump on the bottom now. remember, I removed the suction tube that was on the pump, so the oil flows right into it.
PeteB88 posted 11-17-2006 08:14 PM ET (US)
This is entirely a no brainer -

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Author	Topic: Gear Case Lubricant Pumps
Newtauk1	posted 11-10-2006 10:19 PM ET (US) Do all gear case lubricant pumps [vulgar expression used to mean perform unsatisfactorily]? I will pay a premium price for one that will work more than two seasons. My application is a basic 2003 Mercury 90-HP two-stroke. All the gear case lubricant pumps seem to fail and are just plain messy.
fishgutz	posted 11-10-2006 11:18 PM ET (US) Get a nice clean dish tub to put under the lower unit when pumping in oil. Have at least 6 heavy paper shop towels at hand. Wear cheap medical exam gloves. That oil is messy and sticky to say the least. It smells bad too. Keep a close eye on the overflow hole. If you spill you can reuse the spilled oil. I use the Merc pump that attaches right to the bottle. Pump slowly. This has worked pretty good for about 10 years now. Only problem is my lower unit uses about 5/8 to 3/4 of a bottle each change so I've always got a partially filled bottle in my garage or I'm combining some of last year's unused oil with this year's new oil. It a real pain but it only has to be done once a year.
Tom W Clark	posted 11-10-2006 11:21 PM ET (US) Gear oil pump?! Are you kidding? Just unscrew the plugs and let it drain.
gss036	posted 11-11-2006 12:00 AM ET (US) I think they are talking about filling the lower unit after it has been drained.
Tom W Clark	posted 11-11-2006 12:30 AM ET (US) Sorry, a weak joke. You know a gear case doesn't care what brand of pump you use. I have an OMC branded pump that I bought about 20 years ago. It still works just fine.
PeteB88	posted 11-11-2006 12:53 AM ET (US) Technique - no big deal at all. Once you drain the oil completely, attach the fitting to bottom hole and pump until it comes out the top hole and a few squirts more. Put the top plug in and you should lose only a couple of drops when you remove the fitting and quickly put in the lower plug. I always lay some cardboard down and get an adequate pan to collect the old oil. First time I did it I tried to collect the old oil in a damn pop bottle, that was dumb. Get yourself some good shop rags.
Newtauk1	posted 11-11-2006 02:41 AM ET (US) Well I guess the answer is "yes" they all stink. I am using a Mercury brand pump now and thought there may be a better pump out there. The Mercury pump seams to be a bit more durable than the generic brands.I place a large plastic oil pan under the lower unit and drain. I usually change the gear oil after fogging down the motor. The gear oil( Mercury Premium) seams to hold up well and usually appears slightly discolored after a season compared to the new oil going in. fishgutz- I hear ya. My motor uses 22.5oz of gear oil so there is always a partial bottle left over.
Tom W Clark	posted 11-11-2006 12:27 PM ET (US) What exactly is the problem you are having? Done right, you will only spill a few drops. It is quite a simple process and Pete B describes it correctly. I buy oil in gallon containers and use my pump. I leave the drip pan pan in place after I drain the gearcase and fill the gearcase with new oil. (I use the ubiquitous Rubbermaid brand dish pan to collect the oil.) Top plug goes in first, then pull the pump's hose and install the lower plug. If and oil drips, it drips into the pan that is already there and full of oil. I then unscrew the pump from the container, pump the residual oil in the pump itself back in to the container and close it. I put the pump itself back into the zip lock plastic bag where it ALWAYS lives so it it will not be contaminated by dust in my shop and the inevitable oil drips will stay in the bag. Once the zip lock gets too messy (every few years) I get a new one. All in all, it is a very simple, clean process.
bsmotril	posted 11-11-2006 07:12 PM ET (US) Are you leaving the top vent screw open while pumping into the bottom screw? Also, if it is much below 70 degrees, it helps tremendously to warm the gear oil first in a hot water bath. BillS
Newtauk1	posted 11-11-2006 09:36 PM ET (US) Basically the pumps fail after a couple of seasons. As far as the process it is pretty straight forward as everyone has detailed.
jimh	posted 11-11-2006 11:11 PM ET (US) There are better pumps for this application than the $7 plastic variety. See what your professional mechanic is using. Actually, I have gotten quite a few years of service from my pump. At one point I owned four outboards and it was getting a workout each fall.
ConB	posted 11-12-2006 10:01 AM ET (US) Keeping the oil warm, like Bill says, made the cheapo pump work a lot better for me this year. Con
Newtauk1	posted 11-12-2006 08:11 PM ET (US) Jim- good advice to ask the mechanic. I plan on changing gear oil for many years to come and investing in the best possible pump makes sense. The same reason I bought a Whaler.
jgkmmoore	posted 11-13-2006 04:55 AM ET (US) I buy (3) 10 oz tubes and just squirt 'em in.Takes 10 minutes. Why bother with pumps.Gear oil always stinks so bad, I have always used the tubes.I snip all 3 spouts before starting the fill, and stand the tubes up in a coffee can so they are quickly available.Warming the oil first works well.May be marginally more expensive than buying bulk, but I'm into convenience/comfort.Only do it once a year. I usually drain the lower unit just after fogging the motor, for several hours/days.
Newtauk1	posted 11-13-2006 08:35 PM ET (US) I'll see if the oil is in tubes and try next year. Wha the heck.
bsmotril	posted 11-14-2006 06:21 PM ET (US) It's cheaper in the bottle than the tubes. Also less mess on a big gearcase where you have to switch tubes when it's half filled. BillS
goldstem	posted 11-15-2006 11:55 AM ET (US) I use the cheap pump, with a slight modification: I <remove> the tube from the bottom of the pump that sticks into the bottle. then when I pump I just flip the bottle upside down after screwing the pump on it. the pump works much, much better this way for me.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 11-15-2006 12:01 PM ET (US) Goldstem: doesn't it start sucking air from the bottom (now pointing up) of the bottle? Chuck
Florida15	posted 11-15-2006 01:22 PM ET (US) I've used a $6 Lubrimatic pump that attaches to the oil bottle for about 6 years now. Just a few more years and I will have gotten my money's worth.
goldstem	posted 11-17-2006 02:12 PM ET (US) chuck - I don't understand your question.... the bottle is upside down with the pump on the bottom now. remember, I removed the suction tube that was on the pump, so the oil flows right into it.
PeteB88	posted 11-17-2006 08:14 PM ET (US) This is entirely a no brainer -