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Author Topic:   TRAILER: Turbo-Lube Hubs Performance Report

Buckda posted 01-01-2007 09:57 PM ET (US)
I recently installed Turbo-Lube hubs on my tandem axle trailer for my 18' Outrage.
Over Thanksgiving, I towed the rig more than 1,400 miles with no problems. In fact, the hubs ran stone cold as compared to the gentle warmth above ambient that was the norm on the older, grease-filled hubs (using bearing buddies).
However, I have just returned from a week-long vacation where I trailered that same 1,400 miles again, and dunked the trailer 6 times.
The difference is that on the way home (yesterday), I encountered rain, and heavy rain, for the majority of the day-long trip. When parking the trailer yesterday evening, I noticed that while the hubs still ran stone cold (a good thing) the grease (actually, 90-vis gear lube) was cloudy on all four hubs. This "solution" will have to sit for a week until I can get back to the trailer next weekend and drain and replace the lube...but I was wondering if this is abnormal, and if there is something I have missed in the installation process that may be causing this problem.
I would not consider this to be an anticipated "normal" thing on a trailer that has only done 3,000 miles or so with these new hubs.
Has anyone else had similar or better/worse experience with these new and rather expensive hub kits?
Thanks for your responses.
Dave
jimh posted 01-01-2007 11:54 PM ET (US)
I am assuming the cloudy appearance of the lubricant oil or grease is an indication of water intrusion. Do you think the water intrusion occurred due to the trailer wheels being immersed in water at a launching ramp or from the long drive in the rain on the highway?
Buckda posted 01-02-2007 10:29 AM ET (US)
Good question Jim.
The bearing lubricant was not creamy before I left on Sunday morning. By the time I was in N. Kentucky, I had noticed them beginning to cloud, and then by N. Indiana, they were very cloudy.
I had not noticed the lubricant go cloudy or "frothy" from the drive down (at night) when I simply went back and felt each hub at every fuel and rest stop that I made. My assumption is that water somehow found it's way into the system during the drive through rain-soaked highways.
Brys13s posted 01-03-2007 11:34 PM ET (US)
It sounds like the hub seals could be the wrong size and/or type.How is the finish on the axle where the seals meet it?When you get it apart,mic up the axle and seal dimentions and see where you are.Chicago rawhide [skf] has a good site for this stuff. Another thought;could the cloudy color be from airation?
Brys13s posted 01-03-2007 11:53 PM ET (US)
Another thought;Is there any oil leaking out of your hubs?
jimh posted 01-03-2007 11:56 PM ET (US)
Perhaps the cloudy appearance is not due to the presence of water in the lubricant, but instead it comes from air being whipped into it from the long drive.
Buckda posted 01-04-2007 10:59 AM ET (US)
That is a good point. I will be able to tell this weekend since the trailer has been sitting since Sunday night.
I did not lose any lubricant on the trip. The hubs are the correct size and the bearings are the same/correct taper and size.
Since I was running between 65 and 75 MPH (I really felt the presence of Kingfish in me on this trip), the "air whipped into the lubricant" theory may hold water, so to speak.
I'll let you know what I find out.
Dave
Tonym posted 01-04-2007 11:18 AM ET (US)
Dave, here is a quote from the turbo lube Q & A portion of their website. Tonym
Q. My Turbo Lube hub oil looks milky, what’s wrong?
A. Milky or beige color indicates moisture in the oil. Small amounts of moisture will not affect the function or reliability of the Turbo Lube hubs and this should be no cause for alarm. Some oils change more dramatically than others. Gear oil (70/90 wt) can change colors with the smallest amount of condensation in the hub. A major boat/trailer manufacturer recently tested “milky” oil from a customers trailer. The test came back that the oil continued to have the same lubricating properties as the unused oil. If the level of the oil increases dramatically, this could mean a large amount of water has entered the hub. In this case the oil should be changed and the seal and cap should be inspected for leakage.
Note: If you were to check the oil in your manual transmission or differential after a month’s driving, you would most likely find that the oil would be discolored due to condensation.
hauptjm posted 01-05-2007 02:21 PM ET (US)
Buckda,
I've had these same bearings for almost 2 years, with no degradation of the oil at all. In fact, my trailer floated in Salt/Brackish water for 3 weeks in front of my home in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. The hubs were comletely submersed the entire time. As soon as the city drained, I went to my home to find the trailer wheel bearings in the exact same condition as before the storm.
I've trailered the boat maybe 500-700 miles since, and never changed the oil. To date, they are still roughly 2/3 filled and clear as can be.
I just wish my house had faired as well.
Jim
Buckda posted 01-05-2007 03:15 PM ET (US)
Thanks for that report Jim.
I'm wondering: what type of gear lube did you use? Perhaps it's a function of the quality of oil I purchased (West Marine, Hypoid 90 SAE Gear Oil), and a small amount of water?
Dave
Buckda posted 01-08-2007 06:23 PM ET (US)
This must be a small amount of water in the hubs, as the gear lube was still cloudy when I checked the boat yesterday. I'll be draining the lube and installing some remaining Mercury Hi-Performance gear lube that I have on hand left over from my 150 motor.
This lube is designed to keep lubricating with water present, so it should do a good job for me. I will also check the caps to ensure that they are very tight, although the fact that I haven't lost any lube is a problem (well, maybe I've lost some lube and replaced it with water, since the levels haven't seemed to change!). Also - could it be condensation from the teperature differences?! It was 30 degrees when I installed them, and went up to 75 in Alabama...then back into the 40's and 50's last week when towing.
Dave
Chuck Tribolet posted 01-08-2007 06:38 PM ET (US)
If it was 30F when you installed them, the absolute (not
relative) humidity was probably VERY low. For constant
absolute humidity, as the temp goes up, the relative humidity
goes down. I don't think your cloudiness is humidity.
And I don't see how rain would play into it.

Chuck
JMARTIN posted 01-08-2007 08:09 PM ET (US)
So, I am a little surprised that they put 90 weight gear oil in these hubs. They must "spin" quite fast compared to the gear cases the 80/90 is designed for. A 30 to 40 weight motor oil is about the same viscosity as 80/90 gear oil. The gear oil has a bunch of sulpher in it. If you see yellow, you got water. The cloudy description sounds like water also. I have not heard of the "air whipping" theory before. I think that would involve some oil shear and then you should get some heat. I would put some 75/90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in there or at least something lighter than a 90 weight gear oil. John
Buckda posted 01-08-2007 10:04 PM ET (US)
Chuck -
I don't know either, that's why I posted the original post. I was mentioning all potential water sources; dunking the trailer and road water.
The reason I bought the 90 weight oil is because I wanted maximum viscosity for when the trailer will sit over the winter. I wanted the bearings to remain coated for as long as possible in the off season.
The trailer went 3,000 miles and 4 dunks and another 1,400 miles without any cloudyness in the oil.
The cloudiness was also not present when I began the 1,400 mile trip home in the rain, which is also why I mentioned it (the rain).
Dave
Brys13s posted 01-08-2007 11:22 PM ET (US)
Just a thought; Do you have to run gear oil?Mabye try something lighter. If the discoloration of the oil is due to airation,I would think a lighter viscosity oil would let air bubbles dissapate quicker than a heavier oil.
kingfish posted 01-09-2007 09:51 AM ET (US)
I'll have to dig up my documentation to confirm absolutely but I'm nearly positive that 90 weight gear oil is recommended by Kodiak for my Kodiak oil bath hubs. I'd stick by the manufacturer's recommendation, whatever it is.
John
Buckda posted 01-09-2007 10:53 AM ET (US)
The product information that was in the packaging recommended gear oil up to and including SAE 90, which is what I purchased. As I said, since the bath is only half full, so to speak, I wanted a thicker oil in there for the long winter lay-up so that the bearings remained with a protective coating.
ConB posted 01-09-2007 06:18 PM ET (US)
I highly recommend using the the oil the manufacturer recommends.
That said, my UFP hubs are completely filled with 50 weight motor oil. These people have a different requirement.
Con
Brys13s posted 01-09-2007 07:21 PM ET (US)
Buckda,not to change the subject,but you said you wanted a thicker oil for the winter layup.What I do is support my trailers on jackstands by the frame for the winter.That way it takes the weight off the springs and tires.If your trailer has oil bath hubs,one benefit to this is that since the tires are off the ground,you can spin them and lubricate the bearings.
hauptjm posted 01-10-2007 11:53 AM ET (US)
Buckda, I didn't fill the hubs. They came from the manufacturer already prepared. I'm fairly certain (memory) I'm running 50 weight motor oil as well. The instructions were very clear on only filling the hubs to 1/2 - 2/3 capacity.
Again, you have to go with what the manufacturer says.
Buckda posted 01-10-2007 11:59 AM ET (US)
I did go with the manufacturer recommendations - on oil type, level, etc. 90 weight oil was the heaviest that they recommended, but was within the recommendation levels.
I'll have to go with what the manufacturer says...which is that somehow, there is a little bit of water in there.
Dave
hauptjm posted 01-10-2007 02:10 PM ET (US)
Buckda, has the manufacturer given you instructions on evacuating the current oil and replacing it?? I'm curious, because at some point I will have to replace the oil in my hubs. Again, from memory, I don't remember a petcock or somesuch that allows for draining the oil.
Buckda posted 01-10-2007 02:32 PM ET (US)
There is a drain/fill tube right on the amber hub cover. It uses an Allen wrench, so you open that up and rotate the tire 180 degrees and the oil drains from this opening. To fill, you simply rotate the wheel again and use a small funnel to fill the hub.

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Author	Topic: TRAILER: Turbo-Lube Hubs Performance Report
Buckda	posted 01-01-2007 09:57 PM ET (US) I recently installed Turbo-Lube hubs on my tandem axle trailer for my 18' Outrage. Over Thanksgiving, I towed the rig more than 1,400 miles with no problems. In fact, the hubs ran stone cold as compared to the gentle warmth above ambient that was the norm on the older, grease-filled hubs (using bearing buddies). However, I have just returned from a week-long vacation where I trailered that same 1,400 miles again, and dunked the trailer 6 times. The difference is that on the way home (yesterday), I encountered rain, and heavy rain, for the majority of the day-long trip. When parking the trailer yesterday evening, I noticed that while the hubs still ran stone cold (a good thing) the grease (actually, 90-vis gear lube) was cloudy on all four hubs. This "solution" will have to sit for a week until I can get back to the trailer next weekend and drain and replace the lube...but I was wondering if this is abnormal, and if there is something I have missed in the installation process that may be causing this problem. I would not consider this to be an anticipated "normal" thing on a trailer that has only done 3,000 miles or so with these new hubs. Has anyone else had similar or better/worse experience with these new and rather expensive hub kits? Thanks for your responses. Dave
jimh	posted 01-01-2007 11:54 PM ET (US) I am assuming the cloudy appearance of the lubricant oil or grease is an indication of water intrusion. Do you think the water intrusion occurred due to the trailer wheels being immersed in water at a launching ramp or from the long drive in the rain on the highway?
Buckda	posted 01-02-2007 10:29 AM ET (US) Good question Jim. The bearing lubricant was not creamy before I left on Sunday morning. By the time I was in N. Kentucky, I had noticed them beginning to cloud, and then by N. Indiana, they were very cloudy. I had not noticed the lubricant go cloudy or "frothy" from the drive down (at night) when I simply went back and felt each hub at every fuel and rest stop that I made. My assumption is that water somehow found it's way into the system during the drive through rain-soaked highways.
Brys13s	posted 01-03-2007 11:34 PM ET (US) It sounds like the hub seals could be the wrong size and/or type.How is the finish on the axle where the seals meet it?When you get it apart,mic up the axle and seal dimentions and see where you are.Chicago rawhide [skf] has a good site for this stuff. Another thought;could the cloudy color be from airation?
Brys13s	posted 01-03-2007 11:53 PM ET (US) Another thought;Is there any oil leaking out of your hubs?
jimh	posted 01-03-2007 11:56 PM ET (US) Perhaps the cloudy appearance is not due to the presence of water in the lubricant, but instead it comes from air being whipped into it from the long drive.
Buckda	posted 01-04-2007 10:59 AM ET (US) That is a good point. I will be able to tell this weekend since the trailer has been sitting since Sunday night. I did not lose any lubricant on the trip. The hubs are the correct size and the bearings are the same/correct taper and size. Since I was running between 65 and 75 MPH (I really felt the presence of Kingfish in me on this trip), the "air whipped into the lubricant" theory may hold water, so to speak. I'll let you know what I find out. Dave
Tonym	posted 01-04-2007 11:18 AM ET (US) Dave, here is a quote from the turbo lube Q & A portion of their website. Tonym Q. My Turbo Lube hub oil looks milky, what’s wrong? A. Milky or beige color indicates moisture in the oil. Small amounts of moisture will not affect the function or reliability of the Turbo Lube hubs and this should be no cause for alarm. Some oils change more dramatically than others. Gear oil (70/90 wt) can change colors with the smallest amount of condensation in the hub. A major boat/trailer manufacturer recently tested “milky” oil from a customers trailer. The test came back that the oil continued to have the same lubricating properties as the unused oil. If the level of the oil increases dramatically, this could mean a large amount of water has entered the hub. In this case the oil should be changed and the seal and cap should be inspected for leakage. Note: If you were to check the oil in your manual transmission or differential after a month’s driving, you would most likely find that the oil would be discolored due to condensation.
hauptjm	posted 01-05-2007 02:21 PM ET (US) Buckda, I've had these same bearings for almost 2 years, with no degradation of the oil at all. In fact, my trailer floated in Salt/Brackish water for 3 weeks in front of my home in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. The hubs were comletely submersed the entire time. As soon as the city drained, I went to my home to find the trailer wheel bearings in the exact same condition as before the storm. I've trailered the boat maybe 500-700 miles since, and never changed the oil. To date, they are still roughly 2/3 filled and clear as can be. I just wish my house had faired as well. Jim
Buckda	posted 01-05-2007 03:15 PM ET (US) Thanks for that report Jim. I'm wondering: what type of gear lube did you use? Perhaps it's a function of the quality of oil I purchased (West Marine, Hypoid 90 SAE Gear Oil), and a small amount of water? Dave
Buckda	posted 01-08-2007 06:23 PM ET (US) This must be a small amount of water in the hubs, as the gear lube was still cloudy when I checked the boat yesterday. I'll be draining the lube and installing some remaining Mercury Hi-Performance gear lube that I have on hand left over from my 150 motor. This lube is designed to keep lubricating with water present, so it should do a good job for me. I will also check the caps to ensure that they are very tight, although the fact that I haven't lost any lube is a problem (well, maybe I've lost some lube and replaced it with water, since the levels haven't seemed to change!). Also - could it be condensation from the teperature differences?! It was 30 degrees when I installed them, and went up to 75 in Alabama...then back into the 40's and 50's last week when towing. Dave
Chuck Tribolet	posted 01-08-2007 06:38 PM ET (US) If it was 30F when you installed them, the absolute (not relative) humidity was probably VERY low. For constant absolute humidity, as the temp goes up, the relative humidity goes down. I don't think your cloudiness is humidity. And I don't see how rain would play into it. Chuck
JMARTIN	posted 01-08-2007 08:09 PM ET (US) So, I am a little surprised that they put 90 weight gear oil in these hubs. They must "spin" quite fast compared to the gear cases the 80/90 is designed for. A 30 to 40 weight motor oil is about the same viscosity as 80/90 gear oil. The gear oil has a bunch of sulpher in it. If you see yellow, you got water. The cloudy description sounds like water also. I have not heard of the "air whipping" theory before. I think that would involve some oil shear and then you should get some heat. I would put some 75/90 Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in there or at least something lighter than a 90 weight gear oil. John
Buckda	posted 01-08-2007 10:04 PM ET (US) Chuck - I don't know either, that's why I posted the original post. I was mentioning all potential water sources; dunking the trailer and road water. The reason I bought the 90 weight oil is because I wanted maximum viscosity for when the trailer will sit over the winter. I wanted the bearings to remain coated for as long as possible in the off season. The trailer went 3,000 miles and 4 dunks and another 1,400 miles without any cloudyness in the oil. The cloudiness was also not present when I began the 1,400 mile trip home in the rain, which is also why I mentioned it (the rain). Dave
Brys13s	posted 01-08-2007 11:22 PM ET (US) Just a thought; Do you have to run gear oil?Mabye try something lighter. If the discoloration of the oil is due to airation,I would think a lighter viscosity oil would let air bubbles dissapate quicker than a heavier oil.
kingfish	posted 01-09-2007 09:51 AM ET (US) I'll have to dig up my documentation to confirm absolutely but I'm nearly positive that 90 weight gear oil is recommended by Kodiak for my Kodiak oil bath hubs. I'd stick by the manufacturer's recommendation, whatever it is. John
Buckda	posted 01-09-2007 10:53 AM ET (US) The product information that was in the packaging recommended gear oil up to and including SAE 90, which is what I purchased. As I said, since the bath is only half full, so to speak, I wanted a thicker oil in there for the long winter lay-up so that the bearings remained with a protective coating.
ConB	posted 01-09-2007 06:18 PM ET (US) I highly recommend using the the oil the manufacturer recommends. That said, my UFP hubs are completely filled with 50 weight motor oil. These people have a different requirement. Con
Brys13s	posted 01-09-2007 07:21 PM ET (US) Buckda,not to change the subject,but you said you wanted a thicker oil for the winter layup.What I do is support my trailers on jackstands by the frame for the winter.That way it takes the weight off the springs and tires.If your trailer has oil bath hubs,one benefit to this is that since the tires are off the ground,you can spin them and lubricate the bearings.
hauptjm	posted 01-10-2007 11:53 AM ET (US) Buckda, I didn't fill the hubs. They came from the manufacturer already prepared. I'm fairly certain (memory) I'm running 50 weight motor oil as well. The instructions were very clear on only filling the hubs to 1/2 - 2/3 capacity. Again, you have to go with what the manufacturer says.
Buckda	posted 01-10-2007 11:59 AM ET (US) I did go with the manufacturer recommendations - on oil type, level, etc. 90 weight oil was the heaviest that they recommended, but was within the recommendation levels. I'll have to go with what the manufacturer says...which is that somehow, there is a little bit of water in there. Dave
hauptjm	posted 01-10-2007 02:10 PM ET (US) Buckda, has the manufacturer given you instructions on evacuating the current oil and replacing it?? I'm curious, because at some point I will have to replace the oil in my hubs. Again, from memory, I don't remember a petcock or somesuch that allows for draining the oil.
Buckda	posted 01-10-2007 02:32 PM ET (US) There is a drain/fill tube right on the amber hub cover. It uses an Allen wrench, so you open that up and rotate the tire 180 degrees and the oil drains from this opening. To fill, you simply rotate the wheel again and use a small funnel to fill the hub.