Trailers: Bow Eye Latch Mechanism Safety - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
  Trailers: Bow Eye Latch Mechanism Safety

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Trailers: Bow Eye Latch Mechanism Safety

Verdeman posted 03-19-2007 03:41 PM ET (US)
I recently bought a V-20 Outrage that came on a [Float-On brand] trailer. This trailer has the spring loaded bar in the front that pushes down as the boat is loaded onto the trailer and finally a latch mounted on the boat itself automatically clips onto the bar when the boat is pulled up all the way. It also has a turnbuckle adjusting/shock absorber hook that helps hold the front down that I need to replace. Have any of y'all used these before? Are they safe? I don't want to lose my Boston Whaler boat running up I-95 to North Carolina.
towboater posted 03-19-2007 04:05 PM ET (US)
Towed a new 1989 22 Divemaster on a similar setup float-on bunk trailer from San Diego to Portland in 18 hours behind a F-350 dually 85 mph at times mostly 75. The winch dog locked in nicely. The winch cable eye and hook were in good shape. The spring loaded bow latch was good shape. I also strapped down the back of the boat to the trailer with a 3-inch canvas tie-down strap. Checked the above and bearings every 5, 15, 50 and then every fuel stop for heat. No problem.
IMO, the spring loaded alumimum bar does the same thing the winch and bow post does. It borders on overkill. All ya gotta do is strap down the stern and you can drag that thing around like a dog on a stick.
Describe your spring loaded hook a little better, I may have one. My garage/boat burned, so hot the back of the trailer melted. Salvaged many floaton trailer parts.--mk
jimh posted 03-19-2007 07:27 PM ET (US)
It sounds to me like your question is not at all about float-on trailers but rather about some sort of automatic latching device mounted on the trailer. Is that correct?
Tonym posted 03-19-2007 10:07 PM ET (US)
The hook and catch on Float on brand trailers is part of their design. They do sell parts if you are missing any or if they need replacement. Below is the Phone and address.
I hope this helps. Tonym
Float On Corporation
1925 98th Ave.
Vero Beach, FL 32966
Phone: (772) 569-4440
jimh posted 03-19-2007 10:34 PM ET (US)
Oh--I think I see what the problem is here. The original article was about the Float-On BRAND of trailers, but because those words were not capitalized, I thought he was talking about float-on trailers in general, that is, trailers which are designed to load by having the boat float onto them.
This is one case were the capitalization of a proper noun makes a huge difference in the meaning of the words. There is a big difference between Float-On, a brand of trailers, and float-on, a generic style of trailers.
Well, in any case, it is always a good idea to use supplemental fastening devices to hold the boat on a trailer. After I load my boat using the winch strap, I add a chain safety link and a second hold-down strap to the bow eye.
Verdeman posted 03-20-2007 07:53 AM ET (US)
Well Jimh, the trailer is a Float-On brand trailer but I am most concerned with the style of securing devices it has installed to hold the boat. I have never used this type and brand of trailer or securing device before. I appreciate the info on the manufacturer, I need to replace the tension hook and the hook eye on the boat. The tension hook has some type of shock on it that you can pull up but then will pull back to its original position.
jimh posted 03-20-2007 08:07 AM ET (US)
[Changed TOPIC to reflect discussion.--jimh]
Tonym posted 03-20-2007 09:24 AM ET (US)
Verdeman,
I recently bought a 22 foot Guardian at auction. It is a FLOAT-ON Brand also. I have my eyehook intact but the lower “catch” that attaches to the front of the trailer is missing. I have never used this system before but it is kind of interesting. I believe it will be useful when I am single handing and am landing the boat on the trailer to hold it in place until I can get to the front to winch and secure with safety chains. I don’t believe it will be sturdy enough to hold the boat firm by itself while driving over the type of roads I frequent. Tonym
Verdeman posted 03-20-2007 03:17 PM ET (US)
Well, I was wondering if this system was safe enough on its own to hold the boat. I really cannot see how the boat could move anywhere but I would hate to install a winch and safety chains also. Seems like alot of securing features to have, in fact, it would be a total of four attachments to the front. Winch cable, safety chain, tension hook and automatic boat hook with spring bar. Is this automatic attaching device just an extra piece to help loading or is it road worthy?
Binkie posted 03-20-2007 05:04 PM ET (US)
FLOAT-ON was the inventor of the aluminum drive on type trailer. The whole idea of the latch is so you can drive the boat right up to the latch bar, it will automatically lock into the bow eye, and a second person can just drive the tow vehicle up the ramp. The guide bars on the rear of the trailer will keep the boat straight. Some people call this power loading, but its really not, if you drive the trailer far enough into the water, you can drift right up to the bar, and it will hook you up without you having to do anything. They are a high grade trailer. I don`t know if this was patented, but I never saw another brand of trailer with this attachment. the only drawback I can see is the aluminum locking bar is not as strong as a steel post. I saw one that was in a wreck, and the boat landed up in the bed of the pickup, because the aluminum bar failed to retain it. I would attach a chain from the bow eye,to the trailer frame, with a turn buckle so the boat could not move forward in an accident.
Rich
Verdeman posted 03-20-2007 07:18 PM ET (US)
It seems like a really good design, especially since I often take boats out alone. I like the idea of a turn-buckle and a chain, maybe even a chain that mounts to both side of the trailer frame with a turnbuckle in the middle. Thanks for the advice and tips guys!
towboater posted 03-21-2007 02:05 PM ET (US)
Jim
Sorry bout my left finger/arthritic elbow that sometimes ommits caps when I blog. Bad habit getting better with proof reads.
Instead of the spring loaded arm, rather than chain, Ive used 5/8 rope bridle & corks (small buoy with a hole thru the middle) to do the same thing on another trailer. Rope and buoys floated which made it easier to grab & attatch to the bow eye when loading, plenty strong, cheap & doesnt rust. I tied adjustable knots to each side of the trailer frame just tight enough to allow the bow eye to cinch up tight without touching the winch post. Connecting the rope bridal to chain might have made it easier to adjust. This custom trailer carried a 75mph 21 ft day cruiser.
IF the Float-on trailer mechanisms work as intended by OEM, IMO, the bunks and boat connections are overkill to begin with. Nice trailers for quick dry loading, auto centering & easy discharges. My Float On trailer had a oem padeyes welded on the back of both sides of the trailer rails that implied they were put there to connect strap hooks to hold the back of the boat in place. The winch/spring arm PREVENT fwd/back movement.

Again, I have OEM Float-On trailer parts and a SS bow hook sitting inside a bucket now filled with rain water & I couldnt care less.

contender posted 03-21-2007 07:53 PM ET (US)
Binkie is correct, I have seen the same thing happen before. heavy boat, quick hard stop, and the boat was in the bed of the truck. You NEED a heavy chain with a turnbuckle. The chain turnbuckle goes to the bow eye to the trailer tounge(closer to 90 the better). This also stops the boat from bouncing on the trailer and damaging the bow area around the eye. In florida there is a trailer law, there must be a strap around the rear of the boat (think it is a $75 ticket). PS take off the shock absorber does not make a good safety line...good luck
Verdeman posted 03-22-2007 10:32 AM ET (US)
Thanks man, I agree on that, stainless steel chain with rurn buckle it is. The shock absorber looked weak anyhow. Thanks for all the advice guys!
Bill Bour posted 09-15-2010 12:11 AM ET (US)
Several years ago I purchased an automatic latching devise for my Ranger Bass boat. I used it several times after the installation on my trailer. The latch worked every time. The problem I had was when I tried to unlatch the boat before backing the trailer into the water I could not unlatch it at all, I even tried to unlatch it with a hammer with no luck. I had to back the boat and trailer down the ramp, then after the boat was floating I could force the latch to open. After having this problem, I have not used the device since. What happens, while pulling the boat and trailer up the boat ramp the boat settles on the bunks and that causes the boat to slip back a small amount and causes a binding effect on the pin to bow eye connection. I have tried to think of a way to move the automatic latching device towards the boat to release this bind but have not come up with a system to release the bind. All I want to do is unlatch the automaic device and back the boat and trailer down the ramp and float the boat off.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Trailers: Bow Eye Latch Mechanism Safety
Verdeman	posted 03-19-2007 03:41 PM ET (US) I recently bought a V-20 Outrage that came on a [Float-On brand] trailer. This trailer has the spring loaded bar in the front that pushes down as the boat is loaded onto the trailer and finally a latch mounted on the boat itself automatically clips onto the bar when the boat is pulled up all the way. It also has a turnbuckle adjusting/shock absorber hook that helps hold the front down that I need to replace. Have any of y'all used these before? Are they safe? I don't want to lose my Boston Whaler boat running up I-95 to North Carolina.
towboater	posted 03-19-2007 04:05 PM ET (US) Towed a new 1989 22 Divemaster on a similar setup float-on bunk trailer from San Diego to Portland in 18 hours behind a F-350 dually 85 mph at times mostly 75. The winch dog locked in nicely. The winch cable eye and hook were in good shape. The spring loaded bow latch was good shape. I also strapped down the back of the boat to the trailer with a 3-inch canvas tie-down strap. Checked the above and bearings every 5, 15, 50 and then every fuel stop for heat. No problem. IMO, the spring loaded alumimum bar does the same thing the winch and bow post does. It borders on overkill. All ya gotta do is strap down the stern and you can drag that thing around like a dog on a stick. Describe your spring loaded hook a little better, I may have one. My garage/boat burned, so hot the back of the trailer melted. Salvaged many floaton trailer parts.--mk
jimh	posted 03-19-2007 07:27 PM ET (US) It sounds to me like your question is not at all about float-on trailers but rather about some sort of automatic latching device mounted on the trailer. Is that correct?
Tonym	posted 03-19-2007 10:07 PM ET (US) The hook and catch on Float on brand trailers is part of their design. They do sell parts if you are missing any or if they need replacement. Below is the Phone and address. I hope this helps. Tonym Float On Corporation 1925 98th Ave. Vero Beach, FL 32966 Phone: (772) 569-4440
jimh	posted 03-19-2007 10:34 PM ET (US) Oh--I think I see what the problem is here. The original article was about the Float-On BRAND of trailers, but because those words were not capitalized, I thought he was talking about float-on trailers in general, that is, trailers which are designed to load by having the boat float onto them. This is one case were the capitalization of a proper noun makes a huge difference in the meaning of the words. There is a big difference between Float-On, a brand of trailers, and float-on, a generic style of trailers. Well, in any case, it is always a good idea to use supplemental fastening devices to hold the boat on a trailer. After I load my boat using the winch strap, I add a chain safety link and a second hold-down strap to the bow eye.
Verdeman	posted 03-20-2007 07:53 AM ET (US) Well Jimh, the trailer is a Float-On brand trailer but I am most concerned with the style of securing devices it has installed to hold the boat. I have never used this type and brand of trailer or securing device before. I appreciate the info on the manufacturer, I need to replace the tension hook and the hook eye on the boat. The tension hook has some type of shock on it that you can pull up but then will pull back to its original position.
jimh	posted 03-20-2007 08:07 AM ET (US) [Changed TOPIC to reflect discussion.--jimh]
Tonym	posted 03-20-2007 09:24 AM ET (US) Verdeman, I recently bought a 22 foot Guardian at auction. It is a FLOAT-ON Brand also. I have my eyehook intact but the lower “catch” that attaches to the front of the trailer is missing. I have never used this system before but it is kind of interesting. I believe it will be useful when I am single handing and am landing the boat on the trailer to hold it in place until I can get to the front to winch and secure with safety chains. I don’t believe it will be sturdy enough to hold the boat firm by itself while driving over the type of roads I frequent. Tonym
Verdeman	posted 03-20-2007 03:17 PM ET (US) Well, I was wondering if this system was safe enough on its own to hold the boat. I really cannot see how the boat could move anywhere but I would hate to install a winch and safety chains also. Seems like alot of securing features to have, in fact, it would be a total of four attachments to the front. Winch cable, safety chain, tension hook and automatic boat hook with spring bar. Is this automatic attaching device just an extra piece to help loading or is it road worthy?
Binkie	posted 03-20-2007 05:04 PM ET (US) FLOAT-ON was the inventor of the aluminum drive on type trailer. The whole idea of the latch is so you can drive the boat right up to the latch bar, it will automatically lock into the bow eye, and a second person can just drive the tow vehicle up the ramp. The guide bars on the rear of the trailer will keep the boat straight. Some people call this power loading, but its really not, if you drive the trailer far enough into the water, you can drift right up to the bar, and it will hook you up without you having to do anything. They are a high grade trailer. I don`t know if this was patented, but I never saw another brand of trailer with this attachment. the only drawback I can see is the aluminum locking bar is not as strong as a steel post. I saw one that was in a wreck, and the boat landed up in the bed of the pickup, because the aluminum bar failed to retain it. I would attach a chain from the bow eye,to the trailer frame, with a turn buckle so the boat could not move forward in an accident. Rich
Verdeman	posted 03-20-2007 07:18 PM ET (US) It seems like a really good design, especially since I often take boats out alone. I like the idea of a turn-buckle and a chain, maybe even a chain that mounts to both side of the trailer frame with a turnbuckle in the middle. Thanks for the advice and tips guys!
towboater	posted 03-21-2007 02:05 PM ET (US) Jim Sorry bout my left finger/arthritic elbow that sometimes ommits caps when I blog. Bad habit getting better with proof reads. Instead of the spring loaded arm, rather than chain, Ive used 5/8 rope bridle & corks (small buoy with a hole thru the middle) to do the same thing on another trailer. Rope and buoys floated which made it easier to grab & attatch to the bow eye when loading, plenty strong, cheap & doesnt rust. I tied adjustable knots to each side of the trailer frame just tight enough to allow the bow eye to cinch up tight without touching the winch post. Connecting the rope bridal to chain might have made it easier to adjust. This custom trailer carried a 75mph 21 ft day cruiser. IF the Float-on trailer mechanisms work as intended by OEM, IMO, the bunks and boat connections are overkill to begin with. Nice trailers for quick dry loading, auto centering & easy discharges. My Float On trailer had a oem padeyes welded on the back of both sides of the trailer rails that implied they were put there to connect strap hooks to hold the back of the boat in place. The winch/spring arm PREVENT fwd/back movement. Again, I have OEM Float-On trailer parts and a SS bow hook sitting inside a bucket now filled with rain water & I couldnt care less.
contender	posted 03-21-2007 07:53 PM ET (US) Binkie is correct, I have seen the same thing happen before. heavy boat, quick hard stop, and the boat was in the bed of the truck. You NEED a heavy chain with a turnbuckle. The chain turnbuckle goes to the bow eye to the trailer tounge(closer to 90 the better). This also stops the boat from bouncing on the trailer and damaging the bow area around the eye. In florida there is a trailer law, there must be a strap around the rear of the boat (think it is a $75 ticket). PS take off the shock absorber does not make a good safety line...good luck
Verdeman	posted 03-22-2007 10:32 AM ET (US) Thanks man, I agree on that, stainless steel chain with rurn buckle it is. The shock absorber looked weak anyhow. Thanks for all the advice guys!
Bill Bour	posted 09-15-2010 12:11 AM ET (US) Several years ago I purchased an automatic latching devise for my Ranger Bass boat. I used it several times after the installation on my trailer. The latch worked every time. The problem I had was when I tried to unlatch the boat before backing the trailer into the water I could not unlatch it at all, I even tried to unlatch it with a hammer with no luck. I had to back the boat and trailer down the ramp, then after the boat was floating I could force the latch to open. After having this problem, I have not used the device since. What happens, while pulling the boat and trailer up the boat ramp the boat settles on the bunks and that causes the boat to slip back a small amount and causes a binding effect on the pin to bow eye connection. I have tried to think of a way to move the automatic latching device towards the boat to release this bind but have not come up with a system to release the bind. All I want to do is unlatch the automaic device and back the boat and trailer down the ramp and float the boat off.