posted 06-03-2007 12:24 AM ET (US)        

I run my Yamaha 2stroke oil injected outboard on the 13. I keep the fuel line connected at all times and never run the gas out of the system to stall when I know I am not going to use the boat or winter storage. It either runs fantastic or rough sometimes missing 75% to WOT. MY practice when that happens is to [apply a solvent like] Deepcreep the carburetors.

I have wanted to remove the carburetors, rebuild all that stuff, preparing to do so but just no time to do it. Last time out it ran rough as described.

Yesterday, before I took it out (trailer kept and launched) I put the earmuffs on the motor, got out STP Carburetor Cleaner, followed directions, let it run a bit longer and then [applied a solvent] Deepcreep until stall, dwelled the stuff about 10 minutes, fired it up, smoked up the neighborhood, buttoned everything up and headed to the river for late afternoon fishing and midnight/moonlight cruise.

The motor ran fantastic. I started thinking about what to do and realized I never run the fuel out of the carburetors when I take out like I have done on all my motors since I was a kid. So I ran the fuel out disconnecting the fuel line.

I vaguely recall a thread on this a while back but I thought I would ask anyway. I run premium gas and Seafoam in every tank

thx

posted 06-03-2007 01:40 AM ET (US)            

OKAY, what about gaskets getting dried out if gas is run out of engine? How about you wrenches out there who have torn down lots of carburetors?

posted 06-03-2007 05:30 AM ET (US)            

Below thoughts and advise may be germane to the issue:

I've got a early '80's Honda Goldwing. There is a highly respected mechanic who restores / maintains, etc old Goldwings who recommends placing a mixture of fuel stabilizer + Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank, (here's the important point) each time the bike is fueled. The MMO is used to keep the O rings, and gaskets lubed. Randy stated very little tear down on carburetors from customers heeding his recommendations.

His recommendation is based on the belief that bikes may be subject to long periods of inactivity, and that long term lay up may occur unexpectedly. As Contender pointed out, unexpected lay up may be more geographic based.

I'm based in Michigan, and remember that I've been caught with weather going from "ok" to "who turned on the ice machine" more then once. Then run around in the snow, with hands shaking, fingers turning blue pouring Stabil into lawn mowers, trimmers, power sprayers, motorcycles and boats, cursing the weather god.

posted 06-03-2007 04:41 PM ET (US)            

On my current 1985 Revenge 22 WT with 1985 Yamaha 225, I have only had it out 5-6 times it has oil injection/injection system, I have not run it dry the times I have used it because I'm not completely familiar with the system yet, but when I am more familiar I will certainly consider it.

PeteB88,
Keep in touch & drag your 13 down this way

posted 06-03-2007 07:02 PM ET (US)            

If you are to winterize your motor I would recommend running stabilized fuel, do the winterizing procedure with the recommended oil and then drain the carburetors in the bows.

My two pieces of advise!

posted 06-03-2007 07:03 PM ET (US)            

If you are to winterize your motor I would recommend running stabilized fuel, do the winterizing proceedure with the recommended oil and then drain the carburetors in the bowls.

My two pieces of advise!

posted 06-03-2007 07:41 PM ET (US)            

My motor really should be gone through but I am determined to learn to rebuild the carburetors myself and have ordered the official shop manual from Yamaha direct. Don't waste your time with Seloc or Chilton manuals, in my experience they are not specific enough for my motor. In fact, you can have my Seloc if it covers your motor - let me know year and I will check - multiple years and models.

Thanks for the message. I'll stay in touch.

posted 06-04-2007 08:50 AM ET (US)            

--the type of fuel induction
--the type of oil mixing
--the type of fuel connection
--the size of the engine

If the fuel induction is via a carburetor, there is probably something to recommend draining the fuel from the carburetors if the engine is to be in non-use for a period long enough to allow evaporation of the fuel in the carburetor bowls. If the fuel induction is via a fuel injector, the usual advice is that running the engine out of fuel is not recommended. Fuel-injection systems usually have a closed fuel system, and they also have quite a bit of fuel in circulation in the fuel system.

If there is an oil mixing pump, operating the engine with the gasoline supply shut off may result in excess oil being introduced into the fuel system. There is generally some volume of fuel which is downstream of the mixing point, and this volume will tend to become a very oil-rich mixture. This may make restarting the engine difficult.

On larger engines the fuel lines are generally not provided with quick disconnect fittings, so it is not possible to shut off the fuel by disconnection of the line. A shut-off valve would have to be added to accomplish this.

On larger engines, there are multiple carburetors, often one per cylinder. If one carburetor runs out of fuel before the others, that cylinder could be running without much lubrication.

In summary, if you have a small engine with a quick disconnect that uses carburetors, it is probably not a bad idea to run the engine dry, but do it at idle speed. However, if the engine has an oil mixing system, you may be simply replacing gasoline with oil in the fuel system, which may make for harder re-starts.

posted 06-04-2007 11:09 AM ET (US)            

Now I add stabilizer and run the motor long enough to ensure the stabilized fuel has reached the carbs.

I made the switch after having some problems with gummed up carbs and hearing an old-timer tell me that you can never get all the gas out of the carbs by running the motor until it stalls. Leaving the trace amounts instead of a full fuel bowl can cause more problems because it takes less time/evaporation for the trace amounts to gum up the works.

The new method hasn't let me down yet.

posted 06-04-2007 11:52 PM ET (US)            

Sal - My cousins who are Iron workers and mechanics with more boats than a marina told me to use highest octane at pump regardless with Seafoam. I understand your point very well. They are not engineers.

I will see how things go - doesn't Seafoam work like Stabil, Sal?

posted 06-06-2007 01:51 PM ET (US)            

Continuous Wave Prize
for
Continually Giving Completely Accurate
and
Bad Ass Advice

(I'd center justify if I knew how)

I put 87 octane fuel in the tank this morning and the Yam never ran better. What a dope, I should believe the manual.

Thanks man!!!

posted 06-10-2007 11:44 PM ET (US)            

I run a Yamaha 2 stroke as well; a 60 Enduro. Love that engine.