Author
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Topic: 25 Outrage Transom Flex
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Little Tunny |
posted 09-10-2007 05:33 PM ET (US)
I recently purchased a 1981 25 Outrage with the standard cut out transom and single engine. During the initial inspection the transom felt solid. There were some areas of gel coat blistering in the splash well area, however, caused by sun exposure. I removed the engine for painting and other work, and had some significant gel coat work done to the transom and splash well area. My first trip out, a 3" long crack developed in the gel coat where the transom meets the splash well directly under the port-side engine mounting bolts. Standing in the boat and grabing the cowling, you can shake the engine and see the crack open and close slightly. The crack is obvisouly the result of transom flex. The top of the transom does flex a little if you look at from a bird's eye view, but it's certainly not very significant. The guy that did the gel coat work thinks it's probably caused because the gel coat was applied without the engine hung. After the weight was added, it pulled the transom beyond the flex of the gel coat. He think if we patch that spot now that the engine is installed, it will be fine. Being able to see the crack open and close, I'm sceptical. Assuming that doesn't work, I'm looking for some cost-effective solutions. My first thought is to fabricate some kind of bracing between the transome and the splash well, either with wood and fiberglass, or stainless steel and bolts. Has anyone ever tried anything like this? I should also mention that I installed a 6" set back jack plate, which of course adds to the stress.
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Binkie
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posted 09-10-2007 06:53 PM ET (US)
Sent pics by E-Mail. Don`t know how to get pics on photobucket.Rich |
MWH
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posted 09-10-2007 09:24 PM ET (US)
You've got e-mail. |
Tohsgib
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posted 09-11-2007 12:56 PM ET (US)
Let him try it and see what gives. It is very plausible and all transoms flex a tad. |
dfmcintyre
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posted 09-12-2007 08:35 PM ET (US)
I'd be wary of asserting that all transoms flex a tad. It depends on what you define a "tad" is.One thought is if your not sure of the integrity of the transom is do drill a small 1/4" hole, say under the engine mounting frame where the repair would not be noticed. Check for dry rot. If upon probing you find wet or rotted wood, you've got a problem. If the wood is dry, just patch and not worry about it. Don |
Little Tunny
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posted 09-13-2007 12:06 PM ET (US)
I've already drilled some holes, and no rot. I think my plan is to bolt on a 1/4" - 1/2" thick aluminum c channel through the top engine mounts and tow hook. This should go a long way towards preventing forward and backwards flex. Then I will lay up a 1-2' square area at the critical joint of the splashwell with some kind of fabric (suggestions welcome). If this doens't get it done. . . |
Binkie
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posted 09-13-2007 12:28 PM ET (US)
That should work, to stiffen things up abit. Similar to what I did on my Bass boat.Rich |
Little Tunny
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posted 09-13-2007 02:43 PM ET (US)
Exactely. Do you think the 1/4 aluminum will be rigid enough, or should I go with 316 stainless c channel? |
Binkie
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posted 09-13-2007 09:13 PM ET (US)
I don`t know, whatever looks stronger, I guess. The stainless won`t pit and corrode in salt water, I only run my bass boat in fresh water, so it doesn`t matter.rich |
Tohsgib
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posted 09-14-2007 11:24 AM ET (US)
Go stainless. |
Little Tunny
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posted 09-17-2007 09:59 AM ET (US)
How do I move this thread to repairs/mods? Assuming my cheap reinforcement idea doesn't work, how do you go about replacing/rebuilding a weak transom on a 25 Whaler? I understand this is a real rarity, and have been unable to find much information out there. |