posted 10-03-2007 08:58 PM ET (US)        

This happens about 50% of the time not every time and only the instant you push the throttle down. Other than that I never have a heating problem.

My mechanic swore it was water pressure problem. I told him it can't be it's too quick and if it was hot why is the engine still not over heated on the immediate restart. It has to be a computer or sensor error.

He got his way and ran a water pressure test. Guess what--100% OK. He then hooked up the computer with me on board and it showed the engine over heating to 130-degree-C, but I said to him, "what is the temp after the immediate restart?" 73-degree-C. I told him an engine can't cool down almost 60-degree-C in one second; it has to be a fault in the sensors or the computer. Finally he is on my side of the fence now, but he doesn't know what to do .

It has the latest mapping program and both sensors on the port and starboard side are randomly sending hot temperatures. If you ease the throttle forward slowly everything is fine. The engine also changes speed at low speed approximately 200-RPM on its own, if that has any relevance.

posted 10-03-2007 10:03 PM ET (US)            

Pull the connector off a sensor and note the reading. Should read very hot max degrees.
Next cross the connector with a wire or paper clip and should read max cold reading. Do this on both sensor circuits. This checks the wiring circuit back to the computer. If they read the same , say 250 degrees F and say - 40 degrees F.

Then the wiring is ok, If not you could have a bad ground. Maybe both sensors share the same ground. Check all connections in both circuits.

Another good test is the wiggle test.
While watching the live data on the scanner, wiggle each temp sensor connector. If it glitches you have a loose connection. Its also possible that a pin at the computer is not making a good contact.
Remove the connection at the PCM and look at all the pins.

Sometimes a dab of grease will help make a good contact.
When you do this the key must be on.

posted 10-04-2007 12:51 AM ET (US)            

Tell him to clean off the paint for sure as that will only insulate from having a good connection.

I have a feeling it'll be something simple.

Good luck

posted 10-04-2007 01:30 AM ET (US)            

I rang BRP Bombardier headquaters here in Australia and explained in detail to their top man my problem including the data from today's computer read out.Even though the engine isn't physically over heating he still got my mechanic to check the water tube lengths inside the engine thinking this would solve the problem thinking that the engine wasn't getting the water.....

My mechanic tried it (which I can't believe he did) and guess what all is fine.

I told my mechanic to check his email and try what you suggested , why he bothered with the water tube is beyond me.

BRP Bombardier Australia has now gone to BRP Bombardier USA for some advice , I thought my Optimax's were a pain in the ass because of the lack of expertise here In Australia looks like the ETEC'S will take top billing for that.

I'll keep you posted.

Rob

posted 10-04-2007 07:31 PM ET (US)            

Thanks Seahorse.

posted 10-04-2007 09:10 PM ET (US)            

I really believe its just a bad connection.
The reason is you said as soon as you give it gas you get the over heat warning. Something must be loose.

If you have the wiring diagram or can get it.
Follow the ground circiut for the coolant temp sensors.
If they both share the same ground there's a good chance thats the problem. Remove it and clean it make sure there's no paint where it connects.

Next just check the connector at the sensors.
You said there was paint at the sensor, clean it off and make sure it a good tight fit.

And if this solves your problem . Tell the factory you want a job being a consultant and demand big $$$$

LOL good luck

posted 10-04-2007 09:16 PM ET (US)            

I can pull my Optimax's apart blind folded I'll back myself on this and try what you said.

You might get a thread on Monday:- 2006 200hp ETEC won't start PLEASE HELP... LOL...

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR ADVICE

Rob

posted 10-05-2007 12:55 AM ET (US)            

Rob Pirie posted 10-04-2007 07:31 PM ET (US)
-----------------------------------------------------------
The engine has all latest updates I actually checked this with him online...

Rob,

Ask the mechanic what is the revision number for the latest software in your motor? If you were given a printout of the computer report, it would be on there. I can then check if it is up to date.

posted 10-12-2007 01:12 AM ET (US)            

Did you get it figured out?

posted 10-14-2007 09:23 PM ET (US)            

Buy the software yourself on Ebay check it out realtime with your laptop or PDA.

posted 11-07-2007 08:36 PM ET (US)            

BRP Australia are now dealing direct to try and fix this engine , I am still currently waiting for parts to be delivered to so "THEY CAN TRY" changing the exhaust pressure valve ?

This problem is now 6 months old on a 15 month old engine (150 hours).I cannot believe the absolute lack of technical knowledge of the ETEC here in Australia , what makes it even more frustrating is that I live right in the middle of all the major boat manufacturers in Australia and I have some fantastic contacts in this industry.Everybody is shaking their heads.

I've had Mercs all my life and never experienced anything like this.On my other boat I have twin 200hp Opti's with over 1200 hours each and they just keep going strong.

This is BRP's last chance to fix this engine otherwise it's gone.It will be replaced with one of the new 4 cylinder 200hp Verado's.

posted 11-14-2007 12:45 AM ET (US)            

Parts finally arrive "Exhaust port sensor" it was fitted and water tested still doing the same thing...............

BRP Australia are now programming a new EMM and sending it with 2 new temp sensors.

I am so confident they will fix it especially after they made this comment "We have no idea what’s causing it, hopefully this will fix it"......unbelievable.

2 days to the deadline before this engine comes off and a Black one goes on.

posted 11-14-2007 01:52 AM ET (US)            

Rob, Are they going to offer you a refund?

That would be a good thing. Its sad that they seem to not even know their own product.

Maybe if they did more testing and training of techs you would'nt be going through this.

I feel bad for you. What a major pain.

I still hope for the best for you.

posted 11-14-2007 04:50 AM ET (US)            

How could any major manufacturer let this happen is beyond me. I'm not about to go out and publicly trash the ETEC I'll just let facts state my claim.

When it's running the ETEC is a great engine but what's the point in owning one if NO-ONE can fix it.

I am so disappointed.

posted 11-14-2007 07:35 AM ET (US)            

The overheat alarm comes on and engine goes into limp mode..

posted 11-14-2007 01:34 PM ET (US)            

Wow

I still think its a simple fix as in a wiring circuit problem. Or its a bad connection inside the PCM. Or defective coolant switch. But the wiring and connections are the weakest link and more times then not the cause.
Any decent tech should be able to test that circuit all the way back to the PCM. And determine the cause. Maybe a electrical shop could help

More then likely all you'll need to provide is a wiring diagram and thats it.

Lots of times these outboard techs are more mechanical then electrical. And you know its a electrical fault here.

No program or update will fix a poor connection.

If that sensor is a 2 wire sensor, Try crossing it with a paper clip and go for a test run.

That will trick the Pcm into thinking its running cold, so it may run a tad rich.

If the lite does'nt come back you may have a bad sensor.

Good Luck Rob

posted 11-14-2007 02:29 PM ET (US)            

Pirie,

Ask your tech, or if you are talking to an official BRP factory tech, to install a #348820 pressure relief spring inside the blow-off valve assembly located on the top aft of the block.

This is assuming that the software is the latest version as mentioned in a previous post, and that the engine sensors have been checked for being in spec and accurate on temp readings.

On a similar note, several years ago an engine had all kinds of weird sensor warnings, and after a lot of troubleshooting, we found the 5 volt reference signal voltage would vary quite a bit after the motor ran for a while. That knocked everything out of calibration and set off erroneous alarms. The EMM had to be replaced in that situation.

posted 11-14-2007 04:19 PM ET (US)            

If it comes down to the engine swap (hopefully not) I do have concerns whether the 200HP I-4 Verado will match the punch of the ETEC HO ? We might all find out next week.

posted 11-14-2007 05:16 PM ET (US)            

But we're talking about one circuit here.
And it sounds like just a poor connection thats heating up and causing intermitten or false signals. And setting a over heating code and limp home mode. That makes it run like a real dog and limits Rpm .Or a defective coolant temp sensor. They do go bad also. If they're throwing parts at it, have them replace the collant temp sensor. Can't be that tough.

Try an electrical Shop. It would be worth the effort. They don't know what there're doing.Sorry to say.

If they fix it Charge Evinrude and make them extend your Warranty the time you were unable to use your boat. They should jump on that if it works out. They owe you at least that much!!!

posted 11-22-2007 08:06 PM ET (US)            

-- Fitted high-performance water pick-upl no difference

--Exhaust pressure sensor; no difference

--Temp sensors; these were tested with a heat sensor gun and ohmmeter and found to be different than specified, so they were changed.

--Fitted new Engine Management Module (EMM) and reset the engine timing. It's fixed

Six months ago I told them it was the computer. I'm just glad it's fixed. Fingers crossed all will stay OK.

posted 11-22-2007 10:03 PM ET (US)            

I'am glad your back on the water, but what a long wait and hassle. They should at least extend your warranty for the HOOPLA

posted 11-24-2007 01:40 AM ET (US)            

It now starts better with touch key starting the revs also don't change at slow idle plus I have picked up a couple of extra knots. Obviously the computer was faulting on more than just the heat sensors.

I have given my mechanic a real hard time over the past few months but to his credit he was never going to give up until this engine was running perfect , so Stu if you are reading this "Thanks mate for top job".

BRP Australia I know you will read this and maybe now you won't treat your engine owners as your average mug punter. I said from day one it was the computer. Your support to my mechanic was to say the least lazy but now it's fixed I'm a happy man again and I'll soon forget the pain of the past few months.

posted 12-01-2007 10:06 PM ET (US)            

Over heat alarm comes on, switch OFF, switch ON, it resets itself and I'm away ?

HELP ME--what's left to change? Maybe the wiring loom or harness?

Rob

posted 12-02-2007 11:52 AM ET (US)            

And have them re-check all the grounds one by one!!!

Good Luck Rob.

posted 12-02-2007 08:30 PM ET (US)            

Is there a chance that the powerhead was replaced at one time with an earlier model that needs the air bleed passageway drilled out larger, as was in an early E-TEC V8 service bulletin? Your original serial number is above the bulletin's serial number range.

posted 12-02-2007 09:06 PM ET (US)            

The engine is also changing revs at low speed on it's own.
I'll check out re the earlier powerhead.

???????ROB!!!!!!

posted 12-07-2007 06:36 AM ET (US)            

I've put 2 more hours on the engine and it's fine we are at the start of our marlin season here so tomorrow the engine will get another 10 to 15 hours put on it this weekend , the only comment they made was I picked up a bag....I sharply informed them the first thing I checked before I shut the engine down was to feel the tell tail and was only luke warm plus I put the engine in reverse just in case i did pick something up , when it happened for the 3rd time in 15 mins it wouldn't reset so I killed the power to the engine through the battery isolator , it then reset the computer and all was fine and it hasn't faulted since.

If it faults while I'm fighting a marlin I'll put a chainsaw through the transom and solve my problems once and for all.

posted 12-07-2007 08:33 AM ET (US)            

I hope your engine problem is now taken care of. You are an understanding man.

Intermitent electrical faults are, IMO, absolutely the worst kind as they are so very difficult to find as they are not repeatable in the shop if they don't store in the computer. In my limited experience they are often caused by temporary high resistance connections in harnesses. Those, in turn are often caused by a slightly loose or corroded connector. I'm sure your dealer's shop people have inspected and lubricated all the harness connections from the key switch to the end.

To finally find the problem it may be necessary to hook up the dealers laptop computer to the engine for a day of fishing. With today's EMMs that may no longer be useful but it's worth a mention. Perhaps the technician who is working on your engine would enjoy a day of fishing on your boat?

posted 12-11-2007 07:52 AM ET (US)            

The only difference I can notice is it now using a bit more fuel but as I mentioned earlier I have picked up an extra 2 knots so I'm just wondering if a bit more horse power was dialled in with the new Management Module (EMM) ?
The engine hours have also been reset so I've lost 120 hours off the clock.

Time will tell,thanks for all the support.

Rob