1995 Outrage 19 II: Re-Power with Optimax 150

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Author Topic:   1995 Outrage 19 II: Re-Power with Optimax 150

rush posted 04-21-2008 04:32 PM ET (US)
I am preparing to replace my 1995 Mercury 150 Black Max carburetor motor with a 2007 Mercury OptiMax 150. I want to use my existing controls and guages, for now, at least. The Mercury rep told me that I could [accomplish this] with an 8-pin to 14-pin adapter (trim sender).
[Seeks readers who have] experience with this re-power. I would appreciate any set-up advice and rigging instructions. Any performance tips would be greatly appreciated as well!
Also, my current two-cycle smokes like crazy and nearly suffocates us at idle. What kind of exhaust can I expect from the new DFI two-cycle?
Thanks in advance,
Robert
jimh posted 04-21-2008 10:07 PM ET (US)
Did you get the new GEN-II OptiMax motors? The only way to tell is from the cowling graphics; the logotype is a globe.
If you got the newest model, we all will be keen to hear about the motor. There has been a lot of touting of the OptiMax, and we're all waiting for a first-hand report on these new GEN-II models.
sosmerc posted 04-21-2008 11:33 PM ET (US)
Yes, you can rig with your old controls and wiring provided you use the adapter harness. The new Optimax may come with a digital trim sender. If your old engine had a trim guage, you can substitute the old trim sender on the new engine so that your old trim guage will work.
I would think that you would at least want the basic "System Monitor". It provides alot of information such as RPM, engine temp, water pressure, volts, fuel flow, fuel used, trim angle (if you leave the digital sender on), engine hours. You could substitute a System Monitor for your old tachometer...they use the same size hole. Since you want to use your old keyswitch/harness you would need to add a data harness for the system monitor.
If you were to use a new keyswitch harness with the 14 pin connector, the data harness is internal in that harness.
Personally, with these new digital engines I would prefer to use new wiring. But that's your choice (and your dollars).
The new Optimax will be quieter and smoke-free compared to your old 150. And it will burn much less fuel.
Be sure to use a good Marine Starting Battery...mininum 1000 MCA rating. If you want to go with the new tech (and expensive AGM batteries) they work fine with the Optimax...but are not required. I have had very good luck with Group 24 standard flooded STARTING batteries. I have been selling both West Marine's batteries as well as Interstate. Just be sure to get a 1000 MCA battery.
hauptjm posted 04-22-2008 12:45 PM ET (US)
Let's see, quieter, cleaner, more efficient and probably more powerful. I'm jealous. Sounds like a great set-up. Give us some numbers when you're finished. Good luck!
phatwhaler posted 04-22-2008 01:29 PM ET (US)
SOS,
I want to replace my 1996 Merc 150 EFI with a 150 optimax. I currently have all original rigging and gauges which include tach, water pressure, volts, temp, and hours. I would like to retain the temp, water pressure, and volt gauges and install a new smart Craft tach.
Correct me if I’m wrong but it looks like I will need in addition to the motor, a new oil tank for the Smart Craft to tell me my oil level and a new 14 pin harness, and a smart Craft tachometer.
The old volt gauge is an easy hookup. Can I T the old water pressure gauge into the sensor hose? How about the temp gauge, can that be easily retained also?
Thanks for your time.
rush posted 04-22-2008 03:27 PM ET (US)
Jim, the motor was manufactured 10/07, so it is not a Gen-II motor as I understand it (no globe on the side of the cowling). Sorry :(
I've been checking around with local boat mechanics to try to guage what I can expect to pay for rigging the new motor. There doesn't seem to be much consistency in what I'm hearing; everything from 15 hours at the high-cotton dealership to 4-5 hours at the shade-tree who cut my rigging bands instead of removing the nyloc nuts when he replaced my control cables...still steaming from that...
SOSMerc, If I can get someone to physically change out the motors, is it reasonable that I can finish rigging the motor myself. I am mechanically "stable" or oriented and can't imagine that it would be that difficult. I am not, however, comfortable with the fine tuning of the motor or anything that horses around with the "inner workings" of the motor.
My '95 two-stroke is sitting on a hi-jacker set-back bracket with new hardware, so the un-bolting and bolting back on of the motor should be quick and painless and shouldn't require much of a local mechanic (I don't have an engine hoist, either).
A final question (for this reply, at least) is the whether or not I should invest in the Smartcraft instrumentation. Right now, I plan to use the 8-pin to 14-pin adapter for connecting my analog guage set to the new engine. I'm also not clear as to whether the new motor comes with a digital trim sender or an analog one. Apparently, I need another adapter if it's digital (SOSMERC?)
PHATWHALER, looks like we'll learn together!
Thanks again, fellas!
Robert
phatwhaler posted 04-22-2008 04:26 PM ET (US)
Yeah, some of the dealers are outa their minds on the rigging cost. I want to rig my motor so it's done right without a rats nest under the console. I have a hoist and a Merc lift ring so I'm ready to go. The shame of it is that the best price I've found on a motor was Bass Pro shops. They're about a grand cheaper than my local guy. I would like to throw him the business but a grand is a grand.
rush posted 04-22-2008 06:16 PM ET (US)
phatwhaler,
Where did you get your Merc lifting ring? I have a co-worker with an engine lift. Can I pick one up from a Merc dealer? ...and what should I expect to pay for one? Thanks!
Is there any market for a 1995 150 Black Max that has seen the salt? If so, what should I ask for it? Thanks, again!
Robert
sosmerc posted 04-22-2008 10:36 PM ET (US)
Phatwhaler....
There are alot of rigging options.
Yes, you can "tee" off the engine water pressure sensor to keep your current water pressure guage. You can keep your current keyswitch/harness if the use the harness adapter. For engine temp, you will need to add a temp sensor if you want to "drive" your current analog temp guage. If you go with a Smartcraft Monitor you will already have access to engine temp info along with water pressure, tach, engine hours, volts, fuel flow, fuel used, etc.
Oil tank level is optional. Do you really think it is necessary to have an oil level guage? If so, you WILL need a new oil tank with the digital sender, but also what is referred to as a "boat harness" which ties the oil tank as well as boat fuel tank into the Smartcraft system via another required harness. Personally, I recommend keeping the setup simple...check your oil tank visually from time to time and let your boat fuel guage work as it has, seperately from the engine. You will still have fuel flow and "fuel used" data through the system monitor to give you a second way to verify "fuel left on board". (you can zero the fuel used readout whenever you like).
sosmerc posted 04-22-2008 10:44 PM ET (US)
Rush...I believe you will find rigging the new Optimax pretty straightforward. If you go with Smartcraft Guages it is all "plug and play".
You are required to prime the oil system prior to running, but there is a method for putting the engine into the "prime oil pump" mode without special test equipment.
However, since I have the test equipment, I always use my DDT (digital diagnostic terminal) to initiate the prime oil pump mode.
If you are going to rig your engine yourself, you should get a rigging guide along with your operator's manual as well as a SmartCraft manual with your System Monitor.
I would also HIGHLY recommend you purchase a factory service manual for your engine. Mercury's manuals are EXCELLENT and contain a wealth of information including very simple troubleshooting guides should you encounter any problems.
sosmerc posted 04-22-2008 10:54 PM ET (US)
Rush, you asked about the market value of your used engine. This is a difficult question to answer and one that I wrestle with whenever taking trade-ins. Normally I offer to take the engine in trade for whatever my labor is going to be on the new engine installation. I generally spend at least a couple of hours evaluating the trade in and then another hour or so to figure out what all is going to be needed for the new motor installation. Then there is the actual installation and then testing. I run all new engines for approximately 1/2 hour on my dyno before doing any on water testing. I then like to take the new owner for a test ride. All in all I generally have around 10 actual hours of labor by the time all is said and done.
The real question now is, are there customers out there willing to buy an engine that is now "old" technology, willing to accept inferior running quality and higher fuel consumption along with more visible smoke? And, an engine that in some parts of the country cannot even legally be run on certain bodies of water. The buyer may have to accept that what they have acquired is a parts motor. I generally feel I've done pretty well if I can sell the trade in for what I allowed for it.
phatwhaler posted 04-22-2008 11:21 PM ET (US)
SOS,
Thanks for the info. I want to keep the rigging as simple as possible. Sounds like I only really need the adapter harness and a smart craft tach. Good to know.
rush,
I got the lift ring from a friend of mine. They are widely available on the internet. Down here in Florida there is always a market for used outboards. I will admit the market for fuel in-efficient motors is shrinking.
rush posted 04-23-2008 08:52 AM ET (US)
SOSMERC,
Thank you for the information. I've not considered approaching my local dealer with the option of trading the motor for labor...great idea...and good points regarding the inefficient motors. There are two Mercury dealers and two reputable "shade-trees" that I can approach. My guess is that the smaller shops are more likely to take the motor.
Now, to my shopping list: Let's assume that I will go with the Smartcraft guage for all the reasons you and others have pointed out in this and other threads and that I can work a motor for labor deal to rig the motor:
I will need:
- Motor (obvious, but anal-retentive requirement)
- Smartcraft guage
- Is it just one? Which model gives me the "biggest bang for my buck? One guy told me I needed a (presumably, digital) tach, too. I currently have a speedometer (large), tach (lg), voltmeter (small), fuel (sm), trim (sm), water pressure (sm - aftermarket). What do I keep and what does the Smartcraft guage replace?
- Smartcraft harness (I won't need the 8-pin to 14-pin adapter, now)
- Either a digital trim guage or an analog trim sender adapter...right?
- Do the manuals (engine, rigging, Smartcraft)come with the equipment? I assume the shop manual is separate and would order one; probably at a later date if I don't rig the motor.
Lots to digest. I appologize for my "newbie" questions, but I really appreciate your (everyone's) insight.
Cheers,
Robert
rush posted 04-23-2008 08:55 AM ET (US)
...I also apologize for misspelling apologize...HA! ;)
rush posted 04-23-2008 09:19 AM ET (US)
Please disregard the question about which model SmartCraft guage. That was lazy of me. I just downloaded the product literature from Mercury:
http://www.mercurymarine.com/_media/pdfs/productbrochures/2008_Smartcraft_Brochure.pdf
http://www.mercurymarine.com/_media/pdfs/productbrochures/4-PageSmartCraftBrochure.pdf
The second brochure has a pretty good comparison of the SmartCraft options.
rush posted 04-23-2008 09:25 AM ET (US)
...not to mention that SOSMERC answered the question in his first post...duh, need coffee...
rush posted 04-28-2008 05:08 PM ET (US)
Problem solved (at least for now). Mercury makes an analog rigging kit (P/N 881120A1) for the new Optimax that includes all the adapters, caps, etc. except for the 8-pin to 14-pin ignition switch harness adapter (P/N 84-896542T01). As I understand it, these two "parts" are all you need to rig the Opti to use an analog guage set. There is also a Mercury Service Advisory that explains how to do it. So, for now, I plan to use my new Mercury lifting ring (P/N 91-904551) to rig the new motor with the old controls.
At some point, I plan to get either the Smartcraft information monitor or the guage set. EBAY routinely has the monitor for $120-130.
SOSMERC, Thank you for your help and advice!
PHATWHALER, I hope this helps. I will post anything that changes or of significance that I run into.
JIMH, the serial number on the new motor is 1B431xxx. I think GEN II started at or about 1B230xxx. Maybe a Merc guy out there would know. I will be happy to post anything you're interested in.
Sorry for the long delay. Went on my first rendezvous last weekend on the Waccamaw: what a great group of folks and a great time. I highly recommend it to kick-start the "Whaler" in you!
phatwhaler posted 04-29-2008 10:25 AM ET (US)
Rush.
Thanks for the info. A new motor with a Smartcraft tach is all I want to do. Tell me how your install goes. BTW, I get up to Anderson every once in a while. Were do you do your boating, Lake Hartwell?
Your repower would male a great photobucket documentary.
Take care.
rush posted 05-04-2008 10:12 PM ET (US)
Hi PHATWHALER!
We have several Continuous Wave Whalers in Anderson! They go me "harpooned"! Most of our boating is on Lake Hartwell with a few trips to the coast; Edisto or Pawley's Island, usually.
Good idea about the photobucket documentary of the repower. I just opened an account to post a question about a hole or port in my starboard bow locker. Do you have an Outrage II? If so, check out my post in Repairs/Mods.
Let me know how your repower goes. I would like to see or know about anything that you may run into.
Cheers,
Robert

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Author	Topic: 1995 Outrage 19 II: Re-Power with Optimax 150
rush	posted 04-21-2008 04:32 PM ET (US) I am preparing to replace my 1995 Mercury 150 Black Max carburetor motor with a 2007 Mercury OptiMax 150. I want to use my existing controls and guages, for now, at least. The Mercury rep told me that I could [accomplish this] with an 8-pin to 14-pin adapter (trim sender). [Seeks readers who have] experience with this re-power. I would appreciate any set-up advice and rigging instructions. Any performance tips would be greatly appreciated as well! Also, my current two-cycle smokes like crazy and nearly suffocates us at idle. What kind of exhaust can I expect from the new DFI two-cycle? Thanks in advance, Robert
jimh	posted 04-21-2008 10:07 PM ET (US) Did you get the new GEN-II OptiMax motors? The only way to tell is from the cowling graphics; the logotype is a globe. If you got the newest model, we all will be keen to hear about the motor. There has been a lot of touting of the OptiMax, and we're all waiting for a first-hand report on these new GEN-II models.
sosmerc	posted 04-21-2008 11:33 PM ET (US) Yes, you can rig with your old controls and wiring provided you use the adapter harness. The new Optimax may come with a digital trim sender. If your old engine had a trim guage, you can substitute the old trim sender on the new engine so that your old trim guage will work. I would think that you would at least want the basic "System Monitor". It provides alot of information such as RPM, engine temp, water pressure, volts, fuel flow, fuel used, trim angle (if you leave the digital sender on), engine hours. You could substitute a System Monitor for your old tachometer...they use the same size hole. Since you want to use your old keyswitch/harness you would need to add a data harness for the system monitor. If you were to use a new keyswitch harness with the 14 pin connector, the data harness is internal in that harness. Personally, with these new digital engines I would prefer to use new wiring. But that's your choice (and your dollars). The new Optimax will be quieter and smoke-free compared to your old 150. And it will burn much less fuel. Be sure to use a good Marine Starting Battery...mininum 1000 MCA rating. If you want to go with the new tech (and expensive AGM batteries) they work fine with the Optimax...but are not required. I have had very good luck with Group 24 standard flooded STARTING batteries. I have been selling both West Marine's batteries as well as Interstate. Just be sure to get a 1000 MCA battery.
hauptjm	posted 04-22-2008 12:45 PM ET (US) Let's see, quieter, cleaner, more efficient and probably more powerful. I'm jealous. Sounds like a great set-up. Give us some numbers when you're finished. Good luck!
phatwhaler	posted 04-22-2008 01:29 PM ET (US) SOS, I want to replace my 1996 Merc 150 EFI with a 150 optimax. I currently have all original rigging and gauges which include tach, water pressure, volts, temp, and hours. I would like to retain the temp, water pressure, and volt gauges and install a new smart Craft tach. Correct me if I’m wrong but it looks like I will need in addition to the motor, a new oil tank for the Smart Craft to tell me my oil level and a new 14 pin harness, and a smart Craft tachometer. The old volt gauge is an easy hookup. Can I T the old water pressure gauge into the sensor hose? How about the temp gauge, can that be easily retained also? Thanks for your time.
rush	posted 04-22-2008 03:27 PM ET (US) Jim, the motor was manufactured 10/07, so it is not a Gen-II motor as I understand it (no globe on the side of the cowling). Sorry :( I've been checking around with local boat mechanics to try to guage what I can expect to pay for rigging the new motor. There doesn't seem to be much consistency in what I'm hearing; everything from 15 hours at the high-cotton dealership to 4-5 hours at the shade-tree who cut my rigging bands instead of removing the nyloc nuts when he replaced my control cables...still steaming from that... SOSMerc, If I can get someone to physically change out the motors, is it reasonable that I can finish rigging the motor myself. I am mechanically "stable" or oriented and can't imagine that it would be that difficult. I am not, however, comfortable with the fine tuning of the motor or anything that horses around with the "inner workings" of the motor. My '95 two-stroke is sitting on a hi-jacker set-back bracket with new hardware, so the un-bolting and bolting back on of the motor should be quick and painless and shouldn't require much of a local mechanic (I don't have an engine hoist, either). A final question (for this reply, at least) is the whether or not I should invest in the Smartcraft instrumentation. Right now, I plan to use the 8-pin to 14-pin adapter for connecting my analog guage set to the new engine. I'm also not clear as to whether the new motor comes with a digital trim sender or an analog one. Apparently, I need another adapter if it's digital (SOSMERC?) PHATWHALER, looks like we'll learn together! Thanks again, fellas! Robert
phatwhaler	posted 04-22-2008 04:26 PM ET (US) Yeah, some of the dealers are outa their minds on the rigging cost. I want to rig my motor so it's done right without a rats nest under the console. I have a hoist and a Merc lift ring so I'm ready to go. The shame of it is that the best price I've found on a motor was Bass Pro shops. They're about a grand cheaper than my local guy. I would like to throw him the business but a grand is a grand.
rush	posted 04-22-2008 06:16 PM ET (US) phatwhaler, Where did you get your Merc lifting ring? I have a co-worker with an engine lift. Can I pick one up from a Merc dealer? ...and what should I expect to pay for one? Thanks! Is there any market for a 1995 150 Black Max that has seen the salt? If so, what should I ask for it? Thanks, again! Robert
sosmerc	posted 04-22-2008 10:36 PM ET (US) Phatwhaler.... There are alot of rigging options. Yes, you can "tee" off the engine water pressure sensor to keep your current water pressure guage. You can keep your current keyswitch/harness if the use the harness adapter. For engine temp, you will need to add a temp sensor if you want to "drive" your current analog temp guage. If you go with a Smartcraft Monitor you will already have access to engine temp info along with water pressure, tach, engine hours, volts, fuel flow, fuel used, etc. Oil tank level is optional. Do you really think it is necessary to have an oil level guage? If so, you WILL need a new oil tank with the digital sender, but also what is referred to as a "boat harness" which ties the oil tank as well as boat fuel tank into the Smartcraft system via another required harness. Personally, I recommend keeping the setup simple...check your oil tank visually from time to time and let your boat fuel guage work as it has, seperately from the engine. You will still have fuel flow and "fuel used" data through the system monitor to give you a second way to verify "fuel left on board". (you can zero the fuel used readout whenever you like).
sosmerc	posted 04-22-2008 10:44 PM ET (US) Rush...I believe you will find rigging the new Optimax pretty straightforward. If you go with Smartcraft Guages it is all "plug and play". You are required to prime the oil system prior to running, but there is a method for putting the engine into the "prime oil pump" mode without special test equipment. However, since I have the test equipment, I always use my DDT (digital diagnostic terminal) to initiate the prime oil pump mode. If you are going to rig your engine yourself, you should get a rigging guide along with your operator's manual as well as a SmartCraft manual with your System Monitor. I would also HIGHLY recommend you purchase a factory service manual for your engine. Mercury's manuals are EXCELLENT and contain a wealth of information including very simple troubleshooting guides should you encounter any problems.
sosmerc	posted 04-22-2008 10:54 PM ET (US) Rush, you asked about the market value of your used engine. This is a difficult question to answer and one that I wrestle with whenever taking trade-ins. Normally I offer to take the engine in trade for whatever my labor is going to be on the new engine installation. I generally spend at least a couple of hours evaluating the trade in and then another hour or so to figure out what all is going to be needed for the new motor installation. Then there is the actual installation and then testing. I run all new engines for approximately 1/2 hour on my dyno before doing any on water testing. I then like to take the new owner for a test ride. All in all I generally have around 10 actual hours of labor by the time all is said and done. The real question now is, are there customers out there willing to buy an engine that is now "old" technology, willing to accept inferior running quality and higher fuel consumption along with more visible smoke? And, an engine that in some parts of the country cannot even legally be run on certain bodies of water. The buyer may have to accept that what they have acquired is a parts motor. I generally feel I've done pretty well if I can sell the trade in for what I allowed for it.
phatwhaler	posted 04-22-2008 11:21 PM ET (US) SOS, Thanks for the info. I want to keep the rigging as simple as possible. Sounds like I only really need the adapter harness and a smart craft tach. Good to know. rush, I got the lift ring from a friend of mine. They are widely available on the internet. Down here in Florida there is always a market for used outboards. I will admit the market for fuel in-efficient motors is shrinking.
rush	posted 04-23-2008 08:52 AM ET (US) SOSMERC, Thank you for the information. I've not considered approaching my local dealer with the option of trading the motor for labor...great idea...and good points regarding the inefficient motors. There are two Mercury dealers and two reputable "shade-trees" that I can approach. My guess is that the smaller shops are more likely to take the motor. Now, to my shopping list: Let's assume that I will go with the Smartcraft guage for all the reasons you and others have pointed out in this and other threads and that I can work a motor for labor deal to rig the motor: I will need: - Motor (obvious, but anal-retentive requirement) - Smartcraft guage - Is it just one? Which model gives me the "biggest bang for my buck? One guy told me I needed a (presumably, digital) tach, too. I currently have a speedometer (large), tach (lg), voltmeter (small), fuel (sm), trim (sm), water pressure (sm - aftermarket). What do I keep and what does the Smartcraft guage replace? - Smartcraft harness (I won't need the 8-pin to 14-pin adapter, now) - Either a digital trim guage or an analog trim sender adapter...right? - Do the manuals (engine, rigging, Smartcraft)come with the equipment? I assume the shop manual is separate and would order one; probably at a later date if I don't rig the motor. Lots to digest. I appologize for my "newbie" questions, but I really appreciate your (everyone's) insight. Cheers, Robert
rush	posted 04-23-2008 08:55 AM ET (US) ...I also apologize for misspelling apologize...HA! ;)
rush	posted 04-23-2008 09:19 AM ET (US) Please disregard the question about which model SmartCraft guage. That was lazy of me. I just downloaded the product literature from Mercury: http://www.mercurymarine.com/_media/pdfs/productbrochures/2008_Smartcraft_Brochure.pdf http://www.mercurymarine.com/_media/pdfs/productbrochures/4-PageSmartCraftBrochure.pdf The second brochure has a pretty good comparison of the SmartCraft options.
rush	posted 04-23-2008 09:25 AM ET (US) ...not to mention that SOSMERC answered the question in his first post...duh, need coffee...
rush	posted 04-28-2008 05:08 PM ET (US) Problem solved (at least for now). Mercury makes an analog rigging kit (P/N 881120A1) for the new Optimax that includes all the adapters, caps, etc. except for the 8-pin to 14-pin ignition switch harness adapter (P/N 84-896542T01). As I understand it, these two "parts" are all you need to rig the Opti to use an analog guage set. There is also a Mercury Service Advisory that explains how to do it. So, for now, I plan to use my new Mercury lifting ring (P/N 91-904551) to rig the new motor with the old controls. At some point, I plan to get either the Smartcraft information monitor or the guage set. EBAY routinely has the monitor for $120-130. SOSMERC, Thank you for your help and advice! PHATWHALER, I hope this helps. I will post anything that changes or of significance that I run into. JIMH, the serial number on the new motor is 1B431xxx. I think GEN II started at or about 1B230xxx. Maybe a Merc guy out there would know. I will be happy to post anything you're interested in. Sorry for the long delay. Went on my first rendezvous last weekend on the Waccamaw: what a great group of folks and a great time. I highly recommend it to kick-start the "Whaler" in you!
phatwhaler	posted 04-29-2008 10:25 AM ET (US) Rush. Thanks for the info. A new motor with a Smartcraft tach is all I want to do. Tell me how your install goes. BTW, I get up to Anderson every once in a while. Were do you do your boating, Lake Hartwell? Your repower would male a great photobucket documentary. Take care.
rush	posted 05-04-2008 10:12 PM ET (US) Hi PHATWHALER! We have several Continuous Wave Whalers in Anderson! They go me "harpooned"! Most of our boating is on Lake Hartwell with a few trips to the coast; Edisto or Pawley's Island, usually. Good idea about the photobucket documentary of the repower. I just opened an account to post a question about a hole or port in my starboard bow locker. Do you have an Outrage II? If so, check out my post in Repairs/Mods. Let me know how your repower goes. I would like to see or know about anything that you may run into. Cheers, Robert