Author
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Topic: Learning About My New 1994 Johnson 115
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PeteB88 |
posted 04-20-2009 11:02 PM ET (US)
My new Outrage 17 has a 1994 Johnson 115. I am interested in learning as much as I can about its 1994 Johnson 115 motor: reliability, maintenance, performance, what user experiences have been, what to expect. I know nothing about them at all. Anything you guys can share would be appreciated. I have not yet had the rig in the water but should very soon. It started instantly on muffs and seemed to run great--that was a couple months ago when I bought her.Thanks guys
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towboater
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posted 04-21-2009 04:03 AM ET (US)
I came within a inch of buying a pair of Johnson 88 Specials about a month ago and spent considerable time googling info on those engines. My 96 17 ft Outrage had a 94ish V-4 Evinrude on it when I sold it 2 years ago. 90% of the comments I found rated that engine bullet proof. To be brief, the only consistent, fairly serious negative factor I read about was mileage...they are gas hogs compared to EFI engines but you can buy a hell of a bunch of gas with what you save from not buying a new engine. A 115 hp 4 stroke might use less gas, but my bet is it will take you longer to get where you want to go than the 2 stroke. Every two stroke engine from weed eaters, chain saws to Merc Black Max has its own personality when it comes time to start em. The Evinrude 115 liked fully charged batteries and finicky about the choke. Dont hit the throttle when you start my Husky chain saw, just pull the choke out, pull til it coughs, then push the choke off and pull...it will start. My Stihls need full choke and throttle til they fire...they are a little more picky about gas/mix than the Husky. You get the picture...have fun. mk |
Peter
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posted 04-21-2009 07:02 AM ET (US)
That's a cross-flow V4. It's a very good motor although thirsty by comparison to today's 4-strokes or DFI 2-strokes. By 1994 that proven design had been around for more than 25 years. Its reliable, stable motor. The most common problem I read about with them is the voltage regulator for the charging circuit going bad. Symptoms are an eradic tachometer. Make sure that your 115 is taking its fuel through a water separating fuel filter on the Outrage. |
brisboats
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posted 04-21-2009 08:31 AM ET (US)
Expect reliable service great torque and a very strong 115. If your motor has the bubble back exhaust and I believe it does, get some stainless steel thermostats. Changing the therms is a real pain. It has been said in the event of a nuclear holocaust all that will remain is cockroaches and cross flows they are that hard to kill, enjoy!Brian |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-21-2009 12:16 PM ET (US)
By 94 they had the 60 degree correct or was that 95? If a crossflow it will be strong, noisy, thirsty, and dependable. If a 60 degree it will be all of the above just about 10% less on the last 3. |
PeteB88
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posted 04-21-2009 12:22 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys, what should I be doing for preventive maint? Sal's decarbonizer procedure? manufacturer's 2C oil? preventive or maint required on the tilt/trim? Change the hydraulic fluid? |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-21-2009 12:27 PM ET (US)
Foot lube & grease zircs, water pump, clean carbs, add some seafoam or equiv for first tank or 2, top off trim pump(ATF), wax, check/replace zincs, run. |
Buckda
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posted 04-21-2009 03:34 PM ET (US)
Pete -Congratulations on the purchase - I'm sure you and the wife will love that boat. Since it is a new to you engine, here is what I would do if I were you: 1. Take the motor to a mechanic and have the compression tested. 2. While he is doing that, buy the other materials you will need to accomplish the next steps. 3. Add Carbon Guard to the fuel in the appropriate mixture 4. Remove the prop and grease the splines with triple guard grease. Inspect the propshaft seal. Reinstall the prop 5. Drain and replace the lower unit oil. Use BRP's high performance lube. Replace gaskets on the oil fill/drain screws, and replace the screws with the hex key version that is now available that also has a magnet for the top and the bottom of the gearcase sump. 6. Lubricate the steering arm and tube with triple guard grease. 7. Remove the cowling and give the powerhead a gentle bath with warm, soapy water and a cotton rag. Rinse the powerhead with fresh water, gentle shower - not hard spray. Allow to dry thoroughly, then spray all plastic/rubber components with silicone spray, wiping down the powerhead as you go to ensure there are no oil drips, etc. 8. Grease the throttle and shift cables on the powehead with triple guard grease. Repeat this procedure at the console end of the cables as well. 9. Carefully inspect fuel hoses and battery cables. Repair/replace as needed. 10. Start engine and allow it to warm up. Follow Sal's DeCarbonizing procedure. 11. Once the engine has been decarboned, remove powerhead and replace spark plugs with the new set. 12. As mentioned, replace spin-on fuel/water separator. If none is present, install one. 13. Run the tank empty. Bring a 6 gallon spare and just drain that belly tank so you can put fresh fuel in there. Every fall, drain and change lower unit lube, lubricate the prop shaft spindles, steering and throttle/shift cables, clean the powerhead and wipe down with silicone spray and run Carbon Guard in the tank every other tank. I also would add the correct proportion of 103+ Octane Boost and some marvel mystery oil in the fuel for the first few tanks of fuel to sweeten up any "old fuel" that may be in there.
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PeteB88
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posted 04-21-2009 08:32 PM ET (US)
Thanks Dave man - her tank is topped off w/ 34 gallons of $4.00 fuel from last season. I assume Carbon Guard is a product, I have used Seafoam but always ready to take advice. I have a compression tester. I'm bringing her home next sunny day or no later than Saturday. Tom G will probably go along. We are planning to stop at Norman Camera and maybe Apple Store. I'll keep you posted. THX |
jimh
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posted 04-21-2009 11:01 PM ET (US)
If you want to start making your own witch's brew of fuel and additives, I'd start with the BRP (OMC) products like:FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER 2+4 FUEL CONDITIONER and try some XD30 oil for lubrication. The oil has additives to keep the engine clean. I'd run it a bit before giving it a de-carbon treatment. Some of the procedures for de-carbon treatment that I have read use huge amounts of solvent. I think those procedures are too harsh, and I would NOT subject the engine to that treatment until I saw how it ran. |
jimh
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posted 04-21-2009 11:03 PM ET (US)
Also, forgot to mentionCARBON GUARD another BRP-OMC product, I believe. |
tedious
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posted 04-22-2009 08:22 AM ET (US)
I'm not real comfortable with step 11 - I'd change out the plugs, but removing the powerhead seems like overkill :-) .Tim |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-22-2009 11:41 AM ET (US)
Might want a new set of thermos if there are no wrench marks on the bolts. |
Buckda
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posted 04-22-2009 11:51 AM ET (US)
Good catch Tedious!I think I meant to write "powerhead cowling"..... |
brisboats
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posted 04-22-2009 11:58 AM ET (US)
Yep and if the therm housing hasn't been off you may need to remove the powerhead afterall. Not really that big of a deal.Brian |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-22-2009 01:01 PM ET (US)
I think you are thinking of the popet valves down low, not the thermos up top of each cyl bank. |
PeteB88
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posted 04-22-2009 01:42 PM ET (US)
Power Head Cowling, does that mean the cover? Thanks all you guys!! |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-22-2009 01:45 PM ET (US)
Cover, cowl, cowling, hood, shroud, thingie, etc. |
PeteB88
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posted 04-22-2009 05:20 PM ET (US)
Bonnet? UK? |
towboater
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posted 04-22-2009 05:25 PM ET (US)
If you own a boat, you've got something to do.Pete, I think you are online right now, does your boat have tabs? mk |
seahorse
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posted 04-22-2009 06:15 PM ET (US)
I think you are thinking of the popet valves down low, not the thermos up top of each cyl bankTohsgib, The 1994 115hp has both the thermostats and the poppet valves (pressure relief) side by side inside the housing at the bottom aft of the powerhead. |
PeteB88
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posted 04-22-2009 07:47 PM ET (US)
No tabs Tow-manThanks Seahorse, I'm not clear on the poppet valves or whatever but will get into it when I get the boat over here out of storage tomorrow or Friday. I should probably get a manual and willing to do the preventive. |
R T M
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posted 04-22-2009 08:36 PM ET (US)
Pete, If I were you, I would install a fresh set of plugs, change out the impeller, And do the carbonize routine with Seafoam Outlined by Sal DeMerc. a couple of years ago, and run the boat. Why face unneeded issues if they are not present.rich/Binkie |
Tohsgib
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posted 04-23-2009 11:07 AM ET (US)
Did not know they changed that. |
towboater
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posted 04-23-2009 11:56 AM ET (US)
Pete. WOT, my 17 was pretty sensitive to very minor weight transfers (passengers moving around). 115 Johnson/Evinrude/Ficht weighs 350.
mk
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PeteB88
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posted 04-27-2009 09:31 AM ET (US)
Thanks Everybody - I got her out of storage Friday and she's in my driveway!! We'll be getting her ready for many voyages. I'll report back first shake down and if she runs okay. Best to you all.
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