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Author Topic:   Procedure to Evaluate Used Outboard Motors

thunderjet posted 09-23-2010 01:26 PM ET (US)
I going to look at a 1995 boat with a Mercury 2.5 liter xri efi motor on it.They say it is a 200 but when I try and look up plugs for it there isn't a 200 that year but there is a 225 that year.The reason I'm looking up plugs for it is the people that Im going to buy the boat from say it has been setting awhile and for it to run the gas needs to be drained and fresh gas put in along with new spark plugs.What else should I be looking for on this motor befor I buy it?
Thanks
Tohsgib posted 09-23-2010 02:02 PM ET (US)
It might not be a 1995 but they did make a 200XRI. I would do a compression test which it does not need to run to do that, just turn over with a key so bring a battery as well. I would also just loosen the lower fill hole on the foot and see what comes out first. Water will settle to the bottom so if clean oil comes out, you are good. I would not try and run it before I cleaned out the fuel filters, etc. When you turn on the key, listen to see if the fuel pump runs for a second as well, they're not cheap.
tom976 posted 09-23-2010 02:17 PM ET (US)
You need to price the boat out as if it has a bad motor. Stating that it needs plugs and fresh gas isn't great.
You can certainly try to get it started without the works, but a motor running out of the water will sound great with only 4 of the 6 cylinders firing.
If the deal is good enough and your willing to take the risk, read on.
After purchase info.....
To get the motor running right I would remove the plugs and spray down the inside of the cylinders with a light lubricant. (fogging oil/spray will do fine)
(I never like to fire up a dry motor. Any corrosion inside the cylinder wall can do damage)
How bad is the gas??? Have we hit the tar stage yet?
If the gas is just old, thats ok. If its black goo. Problem.
Anyway as for the motor, I would remove and replace the fuel/water seperator, fuel filter, drain and remove any other old gas on the motor. Might even want to remove the 2 cycle oil in there if its that old and you dont want to take a chance.
Replacing plugs, good. Depending on the setup of the motor and what type of fuel pumps are on there they might have to be replaced because of the age. (mechanical pumps, not expensive) Since its a 15 year old motor you dont know the service history. Replacing the thermostats and on motor zinc (if equipped) would be an idea.
Grease the motor up well, replace the zincs if they need to. Replace water pump impeller and lower unit fluid after you get the motor running right.
After you get the motor running, a compression and leakdown test would be next. just to make sure all is ok inside the motor. If all checks out, happy boating and make sure to bring a small toolkit in case you have any issues on the water.
Happy Boating!
thunderjet posted 09-23-2010 02:48 PM ET (US)
Thanks for taking the time to answering my questions.The people said they ran it last fall so I don't think the gas it that bad yet. Will see this weekend when I check it out.
Thanks again for your time.
Tohsgib posted 09-23-2010 03:29 PM ET (US)
Again do not buy it without doing a compression test. It might have ran great last fall until #6 cyl lost compression, etc. They need to be 10% of each other and gauge is only $25 at any autoparts store. Price better be cheap if you can't hear it run. At least if comp is good, the engine is not completely shot.
Russ 13 posted 09-23-2010 03:45 PM ET (US)
I agree with all of the above advice.
If it is possible,(maybe with a spare 6 gallon tank of good mixed fuel) water test the boat!
An engine will perform MUCH different under load, than on a hose. Plus you can check the PT&T under load.
...
I bought an engine, that ran GREAT on the hose, and had good compression, within 5 psi between all cylinders.
(Did it myself with a verified compression gauge)
Only to find out, after a water test, that it was in need of a complete rebuild.
thunderjet posted 09-23-2010 05:40 PM ET (US)
I will also do the compression test.I have a six gallon gas tank that I never used.What ratio should I mix the oil???
jimh posted 09-23-2010 08:36 PM ET (US)
A good procedure to evaluate used outboard motors has been provided in the REFERENCE section of this website. I recommend reading the article about evaluating used outboard motors at
Assessing Used Outboard Motors
by James W. Hebert
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outboardCheck.html
Tohsgib posted 09-23-2010 10:40 PM ET (US)
50:1
Tohsgib posted 09-23-2010 10:42 PM ET (US)
Actually the XRI is oil injeceted and should NOT require a mixed gas but 50 or 100:1 shoul guarantee it won't blow up. I would go 100:1

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Author	Topic: Procedure to Evaluate Used Outboard Motors
thunderjet	posted 09-23-2010 01:26 PM ET (US) I going to look at a 1995 boat with a Mercury 2.5 liter xri efi motor on it.They say it is a 200 but when I try and look up plugs for it there isn't a 200 that year but there is a 225 that year.The reason I'm looking up plugs for it is the people that Im going to buy the boat from say it has been setting awhile and for it to run the gas needs to be drained and fresh gas put in along with new spark plugs.What else should I be looking for on this motor befor I buy it? Thanks
Tohsgib	posted 09-23-2010 02:02 PM ET (US) It might not be a 1995 but they did make a 200XRI. I would do a compression test which it does not need to run to do that, just turn over with a key so bring a battery as well. I would also just loosen the lower fill hole on the foot and see what comes out first. Water will settle to the bottom so if clean oil comes out, you are good. I would not try and run it before I cleaned out the fuel filters, etc. When you turn on the key, listen to see if the fuel pump runs for a second as well, they're not cheap.
tom976	posted 09-23-2010 02:17 PM ET (US) You need to price the boat out as if it has a bad motor. Stating that it needs plugs and fresh gas isn't great. You can certainly try to get it started without the works, but a motor running out of the water will sound great with only 4 of the 6 cylinders firing. If the deal is good enough and your willing to take the risk, read on. After purchase info..... To get the motor running right I would remove the plugs and spray down the inside of the cylinders with a light lubricant. (fogging oil/spray will do fine) (I never like to fire up a dry motor. Any corrosion inside the cylinder wall can do damage) How bad is the gas??? Have we hit the tar stage yet? If the gas is just old, thats ok. If its black goo. Problem. Anyway as for the motor, I would remove and replace the fuel/water seperator, fuel filter, drain and remove any other old gas on the motor. Might even want to remove the 2 cycle oil in there if its that old and you dont want to take a chance. Replacing plugs, good. Depending on the setup of the motor and what type of fuel pumps are on there they might have to be replaced because of the age. (mechanical pumps, not expensive) Since its a 15 year old motor you dont know the service history. Replacing the thermostats and on motor zinc (if equipped) would be an idea. Grease the motor up well, replace the zincs if they need to. Replace water pump impeller and lower unit fluid after you get the motor running right. After you get the motor running, a compression and leakdown test would be next. just to make sure all is ok inside the motor. If all checks out, happy boating and make sure to bring a small toolkit in case you have any issues on the water. Happy Boating!
thunderjet	posted 09-23-2010 02:48 PM ET (US) Thanks for taking the time to answering my questions.The people said they ran it last fall so I don't think the gas it that bad yet. Will see this weekend when I check it out. Thanks again for your time.
Tohsgib	posted 09-23-2010 03:29 PM ET (US) Again do not buy it without doing a compression test. It might have ran great last fall until #6 cyl lost compression, etc. They need to be 10% of each other and gauge is only $25 at any autoparts store. Price better be cheap if you can't hear it run. At least if comp is good, the engine is not completely shot.
Russ 13	posted 09-23-2010 03:45 PM ET (US) I agree with all of the above advice. If it is possible,(maybe with a spare 6 gallon tank of good mixed fuel) water test the boat! An engine will perform MUCH different under load, than on a hose. Plus you can check the PT&T under load. ... I bought an engine, that ran GREAT on the hose, and had good compression, within 5 psi between all cylinders. (Did it myself with a verified compression gauge) Only to find out, after a water test, that it was in need of a complete rebuild.
thunderjet	posted 09-23-2010 05:40 PM ET (US) I will also do the compression test.I have a six gallon gas tank that I never used.What ratio should I mix the oil???
jimh	posted 09-23-2010 08:36 PM ET (US) A good procedure to evaluate used outboard motors has been provided in the REFERENCE section of this website. I recommend reading the article about evaluating used outboard motors at Assessing Used Outboard Motors by James W. Hebert http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outboardCheck.html
Tohsgib	posted 09-23-2010 10:40 PM ET (US) 50:1
Tohsgib	posted 09-23-2010 10:42 PM ET (US) Actually the XRI is oil injeceted and should NOT require a mixed gas but 50 or 100:1 shoul guarantee it won't blow up. I would go 100:1