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Author Topic:   Classic 16-foot Whalers

jimh posted 12-17-2000 10:49 PM ET (US)
This thread is for comments on http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage30.html which first appeared December 17, 2000, and featured several Classic Boston Whaler 16-foot hulls.
whalernut posted 12-18-2000 05:37 PM ET (US)
Wow, what great looking Classics. I think the hull color and rubrail changed in 1973 though, is this right Jim? I can`t wait to buy another Classic, I am leaning towards the 73`- 75` Montauk. Regards-Jack Graner.
David Livingstone posted 12-18-2000 07:17 PM ET (US)
Thanks, Jim, for posting the pictures of my 16' project. Please note to anyone using the same type of keel rollers showen in the picture, be careful in tidal areas, they can float away at high tide.
lhg posted 12-18-2000 08:11 PM ET (US)
David - I am curious as to how you plan to restore the 16' hull. I didn't think a Whaler so badly gutted like that could be repaired as a foam bonded hull. Or are you going to switch to conventional stringer & plywood floor construction?
The other boats on page 30 are really nice.
Even though it's not original, I prefer the looks of the later (first used in 1973) Barbour rubrail upgrade as shown on the center console models.
The Katama is one of the nicest specimens of that model I've ever seen. Is the canvas windshield white, or is it simply faded from the original tan? I wonder if those are still available from Mills. This picture should be added to the Reference section.
dscew posted 12-18-2000 09:38 PM ET (US)
The canvas windscreen for the Katama is still available from Mills, I talked to Leslie about one for mine (which is under 2 feet of snow right now)a few weeks ago. It was between $250 and $300 as I recall. They also do the mooring for that specific boat, I think that was about $750. I have ordered from her before. Fabulous quality and excellent service; they know their Whalers. Good luck.
whalernut posted 12-19-2000 05:43 PM ET (US)
dscew, I bought a mooring cover for my 73` Currituck last summer from Mills. It cost $720 includes shipping. I got it in Tan, and with no cutouts. I got 2 bow and 1 stern cutouts made for me by an Amish guy in Ohio with the same sunbrella material and velcrow for $17.50, he did an awsome job and he charged way too little for the quality of work performed, I will deal with Mills and the Amish guy again. I should have had a fourth cutout made in the stern but had mental block at the time, and the Amish are very respectful people and didn`t say anything to me about it, I wish he did. I will have him do it this spring. Regards-Jack Graner.
jimh posted 12-19-2000 08:57 PM ET (US)
David and Colin,
You really have a project ahead of you this winter!
Please let us see some shots of the work in progress and by all means of the finished work.
--jimh
jimh posted 12-20-2000 08:09 AM ET (US)
Ron--Fishing Lac Seul looks like a lot of fun. I was checking on the highway map and there aren't any roads north of Lac Seul. I guess it is on the edge of the wilderness.
--jimh
dfmcintyre posted 12-22-2000 12:16 PM ET (US)
NOTE JACK -
What cutouts in your earlier post are you talking about? Couln't figure out what you meant.
Don
whalernut posted 12-22-2000 05:39 PM ET (US)
Don, I use the Bow Norman pin to moor my boat at the dock. 2 lines in the front, angling in to the pin. When the cove is on there is no access to the pin, I could have had cutouts made at Mills, but had a brain lock when ordering, so I had an Amish guy make 3 for me, 2 in the front with velcro flaps, you just start the cover in the front of the boat and feed the ropes thru the flaps and attach to the Norman Pin, and close the flaps on the velcrow, this guy did an awsome job. In the back I use hooks, he cut one in on the I think it`s the port side about 2 feet from the stern and I feed the rope thru the cutout and clip to the eye on the inside of the hull, opposite the outside eye, since their double sided. I should have gotten one on the other side, but brainlock set in at the time, I will have it done, even though I don`t use it at the present time due to dock placement, but if I move, it may come in handy. I suggest haveing this done at the factory, and tell them exactly what you want, you may have cleats or what have you on you`re Whaler. Regards-Jack Graner.
David Livingstone posted 01-07-2001 05:54 PM ET (US)
I'm still working on the old whaler. I found the serial number under 36 years of paint. The number is 33620 which places it in 1965.
To rebuild it I am taking a combination of advice. The inside hull has already been reinforced by the last two owners. Using epoxy and fiberglass matt, I'll cover a couple of areas that were missed. Than, place foam (pearl board)stringers and bulk heads. Fill the voids between the stringers and grid work with foam and than place a wood floor sealed top and bottom with epoxy and fiber glass matt. From replys I have gotten from readers on this form, I know that the fiberglass in an old whaler is very thin and was placed with a chop gun. As I work on the outside of the hull, I am finding the odd weak spot. In these situations I am drilling 1/8" holes and drying the area, then injecting exopy thickened with filler into the holes. The family has gotten into the project. My two oldest boys gave me a new sander for Chirstmas and Cathy gave me a gallon of West System 105 Epoxy and 205 Hardner. I'll send in pictures when have more work done. Right now it looks worse than when I started.

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Author	Topic: Classic 16-foot Whalers
jimh	posted 12-17-2000 10:49 PM ET (US) This thread is for comments on http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage30.html which first appeared December 17, 2000, and featured several Classic Boston Whaler 16-foot hulls.
whalernut	posted 12-18-2000 05:37 PM ET (US) Wow, what great looking Classics. I think the hull color and rubrail changed in 1973 though, is this right Jim? I can`t wait to buy another Classic, I am leaning towards the 73`- 75` Montauk. Regards-Jack Graner.
David Livingstone	posted 12-18-2000 07:17 PM ET (US) Thanks, Jim, for posting the pictures of my 16' project. Please note to anyone using the same type of keel rollers showen in the picture, be careful in tidal areas, they can float away at high tide.
lhg	posted 12-18-2000 08:11 PM ET (US) David - I am curious as to how you plan to restore the 16' hull. I didn't think a Whaler so badly gutted like that could be repaired as a foam bonded hull. Or are you going to switch to conventional stringer & plywood floor construction? The other boats on page 30 are really nice. Even though it's not original, I prefer the looks of the later (first used in 1973) Barbour rubrail upgrade as shown on the center console models. The Katama is one of the nicest specimens of that model I've ever seen. Is the canvas windshield white, or is it simply faded from the original tan? I wonder if those are still available from Mills. This picture should be added to the Reference section.
dscew	posted 12-18-2000 09:38 PM ET (US) The canvas windscreen for the Katama is still available from Mills, I talked to Leslie about one for mine (which is under 2 feet of snow right now)a few weeks ago. It was between $250 and $300 as I recall. They also do the mooring for that specific boat, I think that was about $750. I have ordered from her before. Fabulous quality and excellent service; they know their Whalers. Good luck.
whalernut	posted 12-19-2000 05:43 PM ET (US) dscew, I bought a mooring cover for my 73` Currituck last summer from Mills. It cost $720 includes shipping. I got it in Tan, and with no cutouts. I got 2 bow and 1 stern cutouts made for me by an Amish guy in Ohio with the same sunbrella material and velcrow for $17.50, he did an awsome job and he charged way too little for the quality of work performed, I will deal with Mills and the Amish guy again. I should have had a fourth cutout made in the stern but had mental block at the time, and the Amish are very respectful people and didn`t say anything to me about it, I wish he did. I will have him do it this spring. Regards-Jack Graner.
jimh	posted 12-19-2000 08:57 PM ET (US) David and Colin, You really have a project ahead of you this winter! Please let us see some shots of the work in progress and by all means of the finished work. --jimh
jimh	posted 12-20-2000 08:09 AM ET (US) Ron--Fishing Lac Seul looks like a lot of fun. I was checking on the highway map and there aren't any roads north of Lac Seul. I guess it is on the edge of the wilderness. --jimh
dfmcintyre	posted 12-22-2000 12:16 PM ET (US) NOTE JACK - What cutouts in your earlier post are you talking about? Couln't figure out what you meant. Don
whalernut	posted 12-22-2000 05:39 PM ET (US) Don, I use the Bow Norman pin to moor my boat at the dock. 2 lines in the front, angling in to the pin. When the cove is on there is no access to the pin, I could have had cutouts made at Mills, but had a brain lock when ordering, so I had an Amish guy make 3 for me, 2 in the front with velcro flaps, you just start the cover in the front of the boat and feed the ropes thru the flaps and attach to the Norman Pin, and close the flaps on the velcrow, this guy did an awsome job. In the back I use hooks, he cut one in on the I think it`s the port side about 2 feet from the stern and I feed the rope thru the cutout and clip to the eye on the inside of the hull, opposite the outside eye, since their double sided. I should have gotten one on the other side, but brainlock set in at the time, I will have it done, even though I don`t use it at the present time due to dock placement, but if I move, it may come in handy. I suggest haveing this done at the factory, and tell them exactly what you want, you may have cleats or what have you on you`re Whaler. Regards-Jack Graner.
David Livingstone	posted 01-07-2001 05:54 PM ET (US) I'm still working on the old whaler. I found the serial number under 36 years of paint. The number is 33620 which places it in 1965. To rebuild it I am taking a combination of advice. The inside hull has already been reinforced by the last two owners. Using epoxy and fiberglass matt, I'll cover a couple of areas that were missed. Than, place foam (pearl board)stringers and bulk heads. Fill the voids between the stringers and grid work with foam and than place a wood floor sealed top and bottom with epoxy and fiber glass matt. From replys I have gotten from readers on this form, I know that the fiberglass in an old whaler is very thin and was placed with a chop gun. As I work on the outside of the hull, I am finding the odd weak spot. In these situations I am drilling 1/8" holes and drying the area, then injecting exopy thickened with filler into the holes. The family has gotten into the project. My two oldest boys gave me a new sander for Chirstmas and Cathy gave me a gallon of West System 105 Epoxy and 205 Hardner. I'll send in pictures when have more work done. Right now it looks worse than when I started.