Page 41: Montauks With Brackets: June 15, 2001

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jimh posted 06-15-2001 09:51 PM ET (US)
This message thread is for comments about http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage41.html which first appeared June 15, 2001 and featured classic Boston Whaler Montauks re-fitted with engine brackets.
Cruiser posted 06-16-2001 01:35 PM ET (US)
Are these brackets hydraulic or manual? How much do they cost? Good looking boat.
Barry posted 06-16-2001 06:23 PM ET (US)
Both are manual. On mine (the top pictures) you loosen the 2 bolts on each side then adjust the height with the single large bolt (jack screw) underneath.
Regarding price, the one-piece units start at $197 for the CMC 5-1/2" unit and go up from there.
Here's some examples of manual unit prices found at Cabelas:
CMC 5-1/2" $197
Springfield 6" $255
Springfield 10" $275
Rite-Hite 6" $300
Rite-Hite 8" $320
I actually bought my Rite-Hite 8" off of eBay for $202.
The transom support plate was $15-20.
blackdog posted 06-18-2001 08:47 AM ET (US)
Great looking boat! Question about the new engine. Why are some Ficht's blue / black and some are white?
stagalv posted 06-18-2001 09:50 AM ET (US)
When I bought this engine I was told that the white engines are the "Saltwater Series". After looking into it the salesman told me that the only difference is some stainless piece on the steering arm and that the white one cost a couple of hundred dollars more. The blue one still has the direct connect hose flush outlet on the back.
Rex
lhg posted 06-18-2001 12:35 PM ET (US)
Very nice bracket installation work, both boats. I like the Rite Hite unit combined with the Mercury engine.
Rex's 16' hulled Montauk is SUPER, SUPER, SUPER. After looking at his previous 13, what else should we have expected? Beautiful work, and the classic character of the original Montauk design has been consistently maintained in a 1st class manner. Well done, Rex. You should be very proud of her.
JimU posted 06-18-2001 02:08 PM ET (US)
Barry, do you have before and after performance data? Jim.
JDH posted 06-19-2001 07:55 PM ET (US)
What color is the Awlgrip used? What was the surface prep and primer?
I would love to get my 1962 hull looking half as nice....
stagalv posted 06-19-2001 08:40 PM ET (US)
JDH, I believe the U.S.Paint - Awlgrip color was called "Creme". I did not do the actual spraying and don't know what prep material was used.
If you would like I can look up the color tomorrow to make sure. Rex
kingfish posted 06-23-2001 10:57 PM ET (US)
Two *fabulous* Montauks!! Barry, I'm excited to see the Stiletto went to a great home - I hope it works out. Rex, having had a Montauk with a 100 hp Merc, and knowing that it would do around 45 mph, I have to believe that without too much effort, you could tune your rig up to run well in excess of 50...might be a little airy, though...
kingfish
Bigshot posted 06-26-2001 01:33 PM ET (US)
Buddy had a 17 montauk with a 140hp Evinrude jacked up. The boat did about 55mph but would chine walk sooo bad and it would take a 1/2 mile to turn around. I thought about a jack plate, Bob's Hydraulic used for $300 and a low water pickup but I do not want to molest my Montauk. Besides speed , how shallow can you run compared to stock? I figure I need about what 14" or so on plane stock with the engine up about an inch on the transom?
irvingjf posted 06-28-2001 07:54 PM ET (US)
Where could I get plans for the rear teak seat and installation instructions, (sigh) I hope I can work miracles and develop a finished Montauk half as nice. Also, there is a really nice fibreglass fuel tank in the picture, I am looking for the manufacturers name.
Wild Turkey posted 06-29-2001 11:03 AM ET (US)
Pate Plastics, Inc.
360 N.W. 71 Street
Miami, Fl. 33150
Phone: 305-754-0896
(I think the area code might have changed)
Pate Plastics made (and still makes) the fibreglas tank for the Montauks. You can get them in Whaler Tan or White. The C-24 or C-27 models will fit under the RPS. They are expensive (close to $300 with shipping if my memory is correct). They will ship but, you have to send them a check first.
Also, I would like to build a teak stern seat for my Montauk too. Let me know if you and ideas or plans.
Whalerdan posted 06-29-2001 12:49 PM ET (US)
I'd like one too. Please let me know if you guys find some good plans.
jimh posted 06-29-2001 11:32 PM ET (US)
[appended messages from another thread]
carlz posted 07-01-2001 10:00 AM ET (US)
regarding the stern seat,I have a copy of the factory plans for the Eastport stern seat. Email me if interested. What you see in Rex's boat looks a little more like the bench seats used in the Supersport (which I had and sold off when I built a console) Those were--and I expect Rex's is--glued up 5/4 mahogany. Teak might be awfully pricy. A plank of those dimensions can span the boat unsupported. With a tight fit the seat does not want to travel very much and would need only a very simple backet and a few screws into the side of the hull. If I were glueing up something like that I would use a spline set into kerfs in the face of the joined butts for greater strength.

carlz posted 07-01-2001 10:05 AM ET (US)
Rex,
I'm curious about your Bimini top. It looks high enough to stand under. How high is it? Are the bows stainless also? Can you tell us where you purchased it?
It looks like you have it mounted to not directly to the hull but to wood; what is that about?
stagalv posted 07-01-2001 04:58 PM ET (US)
Sorry about the delay. I was out of town soaking up the Mexican sun. No Whalers seen there but I did sail on a Hobie Cat.
Anyway, The rear thwart seat was made out of 5/4" mahogany. It is 60" wide and is about 12 - 14" fore & aft. It consists of two pieces with dowels and then it was glued together. It is great for sitting or mainly I use it to stand on to fish. Plus it hides most of the engine wires, fuel filter, etc.. I am thinking about cutting two holes in it to mount flush mount rod holders through it.
The bimini top is mounted on the inner lips and has an aluminum track (no wood) which allows the position to be adjusted fore & aft about 10". I stow it laying down forward with the boot on it. During the cooler time of year I will take it off and stow it in the garage. I had it made by a local boat canvas shop in Seabrook Texas. I had it made to where it gives good headroom but doesn't look too funny being tall. I think a person 6'2" could still stand under it in the middle. If you make it too tall the looks are worse and it shakes around too much when running. I run a short piece of thick monofilamant line from the top center down to the top of the console rail to keep it from shaking as much when running.
Rex
Intrepid posted 08-04-2001 10:51 PM ET (US)
Rex, an outstanding job! Does anyone know of firms who restore whalers? I just purchased a 22' Guardian and it is beyond my capabilities... Thanks in advance!
jay posted 01-07-2002 05:23 PM ET (US)
What is the purpose of the jack plate? Is it strictly to allow for shallow water running, or is there a performance advantage?
jay posted 01-07-2002 05:41 PM ET (US)
By the way, I like that fiberglass fuel tank. Why did you choose that instead of the 28 gallon Tempo?
jimh posted 01-08-2002 01:12 AM ET (US)
I wrote a lengthy article that attempts to explain the purpose of a jack plate; see:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/engineBracekts.html
There is a follow-up message thread hyperlinked in the article. If you have additional questions about the article it is probably best to ask them in that thread.
kingfish posted 01-08-2002 10:12 AM ET (US)
jimh-
I think that hyperlink doesn't work-
jcf
Tom W Clark posted 01-08-2002 11:45 AM ET (US)
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/engineBrackets.html
You see? Spelling does count...
jimh posted 01-08-2002 01:23 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the corrections. I'll make repairs later!
jay posted 01-08-2002 07:54 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the forward to the jack plate article. Definitely answered my questions.
Still interested in that fiberglass fuel tank when you get a chance to respond.
LFK posted 06-12-2002 08:02 PM ET (US)
I've got a 73, 17' Montauk/Cohasset with a new 2002 115hp ficht. It runs great. I am curious about the amount of weight in the rear of this boat with the engine/bracket, large fuel tank below the console seat and a rear seat with one/two adults. It must really ride with the tail down, unless on a plane. I am considering building a wooden seat in front of my console with a 20+ gal tank below to address this problem - Ideas from anyone?
Luis Selles posted 12-09-2003 03:47 PM ET (US)
i have 13ft. 25hp mariner i need 3 inches to put down even the hull . motor is short cause cavitation problems,explain me what is the jackplate that work for me. Whaler. I need center console manufacturer, dont found. great work ,thanks
Clark Roberts posted 12-17-2003 04:37 PM ET (US)
Luis, any jackplate that has a 5" setback should allow you to run that 15" shaft motor on the 20" transom. You can adjust jackplate so that motor mounting bracket is at top of transom and this will give you a 5" rise (anti-cavitation plate should be about 5" above keel). You can start there and it should work fine! See my 13 Alert with 20" transom and 15" shaft 40 Mariner on a 10" set-back at Cetacea page 28. Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
PS>keep an eye on cooling water flow and a Doel-Fin may help keep a lid on the prop...
Montauk Explorer posted 04-30-2005 03:27 PM ET (US)
where is the oil tank?
dont see it in any of the pics.

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Author	Topic: Page 41: Montauks With Brackets: June 15, 2001
jimh	posted 06-15-2001 09:51 PM ET (US) This message thread is for comments about http://continuouswave.com/whaler/cetacea/cetaceaPage41.html which first appeared June 15, 2001 and featured classic Boston Whaler Montauks re-fitted with engine brackets.
Cruiser	posted 06-16-2001 01:35 PM ET (US) Are these brackets hydraulic or manual? How much do they cost? Good looking boat.
Barry	posted 06-16-2001 06:23 PM ET (US) Both are manual. On mine (the top pictures) you loosen the 2 bolts on each side then adjust the height with the single large bolt (jack screw) underneath. Regarding price, the one-piece units start at $197 for the CMC 5-1/2" unit and go up from there. Here's some examples of manual unit prices found at Cabelas: CMC 5-1/2" $197 Springfield 6" $255 Springfield 10" $275 Rite-Hite 6" $300 Rite-Hite 8" $320 I actually bought my Rite-Hite 8" off of eBay for $202. The transom support plate was $15-20.
blackdog	posted 06-18-2001 08:47 AM ET (US) Great looking boat! Question about the new engine. Why are some Ficht's blue / black and some are white?
stagalv	posted 06-18-2001 09:50 AM ET (US) When I bought this engine I was told that the white engines are the "Saltwater Series". After looking into it the salesman told me that the only difference is some stainless piece on the steering arm and that the white one cost a couple of hundred dollars more. The blue one still has the direct connect hose flush outlet on the back. Rex
lhg	posted 06-18-2001 12:35 PM ET (US) Very nice bracket installation work, both boats. I like the Rite Hite unit combined with the Mercury engine. Rex's 16' hulled Montauk is SUPER, SUPER, SUPER. After looking at his previous 13, what else should we have expected? Beautiful work, and the classic character of the original Montauk design has been consistently maintained in a 1st class manner. Well done, Rex. You should be very proud of her.
JimU	posted 06-18-2001 02:08 PM ET (US) Barry, do you have before and after performance data? Jim.
JDH	posted 06-19-2001 07:55 PM ET (US) What color is the Awlgrip used? What was the surface prep and primer? I would love to get my 1962 hull looking half as nice....
stagalv	posted 06-19-2001 08:40 PM ET (US) JDH, I believe the U.S.Paint - Awlgrip color was called "Creme". I did not do the actual spraying and don't know what prep material was used. If you would like I can look up the color tomorrow to make sure. Rex
kingfish	posted 06-23-2001 10:57 PM ET (US) Two fabulous Montauks!! Barry, I'm excited to see the Stiletto went to a great home - I hope it works out. Rex, having had a Montauk with a 100 hp Merc, and knowing that it would do around 45 mph, I have to believe that without too much effort, you could tune your rig up to run well in excess of 50...might be a little airy, though... kingfish
Bigshot	posted 06-26-2001 01:33 PM ET (US) Buddy had a 17 montauk with a 140hp Evinrude jacked up. The boat did about 55mph but would chine walk sooo bad and it would take a 1/2 mile to turn around. I thought about a jack plate, Bob's Hydraulic used for $300 and a low water pickup but I do not want to molest my Montauk. Besides speed , how shallow can you run compared to stock? I figure I need about what 14" or so on plane stock with the engine up about an inch on the transom?
irvingjf	posted 06-28-2001 07:54 PM ET (US) Where could I get plans for the rear teak seat and installation instructions, (sigh) I hope I can work miracles and develop a finished Montauk half as nice. Also, there is a really nice fibreglass fuel tank in the picture, I am looking for the manufacturers name.
Wild Turkey	posted 06-29-2001 11:03 AM ET (US) Pate Plastics, Inc. 360 N.W. 71 Street Miami, Fl. 33150 Phone: 305-754-0896 (I think the area code might have changed) Pate Plastics made (and still makes) the fibreglas tank for the Montauks. You can get them in Whaler Tan or White. The C-24 or C-27 models will fit under the RPS. They are expensive (close to $300 with shipping if my memory is correct). They will ship but, you have to send them a check first. Also, I would like to build a teak stern seat for my Montauk too. Let me know if you and ideas or plans.
Whalerdan	posted 06-29-2001 12:49 PM ET (US) I'd like one too. Please let me know if you guys find some good plans.
jimh	posted 06-29-2001 11:32 PM ET (US) [appended messages from another thread]
carlz	posted 07-01-2001 10:00 AM ET (US) regarding the stern seat,I have a copy of the factory plans for the Eastport stern seat. Email me if interested. What you see in Rex's boat looks a little more like the bench seats used in the Supersport (which I had and sold off when I built a console) Those were--and I expect Rex's is--glued up 5/4 mahogany. Teak might be awfully pricy. A plank of those dimensions can span the boat unsupported. With a tight fit the seat does not want to travel very much and would need only a very simple backet and a few screws into the side of the hull. If I were glueing up something like that I would use a spline set into kerfs in the face of the joined butts for greater strength.
carlz	posted 07-01-2001 10:05 AM ET (US) Rex, I'm curious about your Bimini top. It looks high enough to stand under. How high is it? Are the bows stainless also? Can you tell us where you purchased it? It looks like you have it mounted to not directly to the hull but to wood; what is that about?
stagalv	posted 07-01-2001 04:58 PM ET (US) Sorry about the delay. I was out of town soaking up the Mexican sun. No Whalers seen there but I did sail on a Hobie Cat. Anyway, The rear thwart seat was made out of 5/4" mahogany. It is 60" wide and is about 12 - 14" fore & aft. It consists of two pieces with dowels and then it was glued together. It is great for sitting or mainly I use it to stand on to fish. Plus it hides most of the engine wires, fuel filter, etc.. I am thinking about cutting two holes in it to mount flush mount rod holders through it. The bimini top is mounted on the inner lips and has an aluminum track (no wood) which allows the position to be adjusted fore & aft about 10". I stow it laying down forward with the boot on it. During the cooler time of year I will take it off and stow it in the garage. I had it made by a local boat canvas shop in Seabrook Texas. I had it made to where it gives good headroom but doesn't look too funny being tall. I think a person 6'2" could still stand under it in the middle. If you make it too tall the looks are worse and it shakes around too much when running. I run a short piece of thick monofilamant line from the top center down to the top of the console rail to keep it from shaking as much when running. Rex
Intrepid	posted 08-04-2001 10:51 PM ET (US) Rex, an outstanding job! Does anyone know of firms who restore whalers? I just purchased a 22' Guardian and it is beyond my capabilities... Thanks in advance!
jay	posted 01-07-2002 05:23 PM ET (US) What is the purpose of the jack plate? Is it strictly to allow for shallow water running, or is there a performance advantage?
jay	posted 01-07-2002 05:41 PM ET (US) By the way, I like that fiberglass fuel tank. Why did you choose that instead of the 28 gallon Tempo?
jimh	posted 01-08-2002 01:12 AM ET (US) I wrote a lengthy article that attempts to explain the purpose of a jack plate; see: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/engineBracekts.html There is a follow-up message thread hyperlinked in the article. If you have additional questions about the article it is probably best to ask them in that thread.
kingfish	posted 01-08-2002 10:12 AM ET (US) jimh- I think that hyperlink doesn't work- jcf
Tom W Clark	posted 01-08-2002 11:45 AM ET (US) http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/engineBrackets.html You see? Spelling does count...
jimh	posted 01-08-2002 01:23 PM ET (US) Thanks for the corrections. I'll make repairs later!
jay	posted 01-08-2002 07:54 PM ET (US) Thanks for the forward to the jack plate article. Definitely answered my questions. Still interested in that fiberglass fuel tank when you get a chance to respond.
LFK	posted 06-12-2002 08:02 PM ET (US) I've got a 73, 17' Montauk/Cohasset with a new 2002 115hp ficht. It runs great. I am curious about the amount of weight in the rear of this boat with the engine/bracket, large fuel tank below the console seat and a rear seat with one/two adults. It must really ride with the tail down, unless on a plane. I am considering building a wooden seat in front of my console with a 20+ gal tank below to address this problem - Ideas from anyone?
Luis Selles	posted 12-09-2003 03:47 PM ET (US) i have 13ft. 25hp mariner i need 3 inches to put down even the hull . motor is short cause cavitation problems,explain me what is the jackplate that work for me. Whaler. I need center console manufacturer, dont found. great work ,thanks
Clark Roberts	posted 12-17-2003 04:37 PM ET (US) Luis, any jackplate that has a 5" setback should allow you to run that 15" shaft motor on the 20" transom. You can adjust jackplate so that motor mounting bracket is at top of transom and this will give you a 5" rise (anti-cavitation plate should be about 5" above keel). You can start there and it should work fine! See my 13 Alert with 20" transom and 15" shaft 40 Mariner on a 10" set-back at Cetacea page 28. Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy PS>keep an eye on cooling water flow and a Doel-Fin may help keep a lid on the prop...
Montauk Explorer	posted 04-30-2005 03:27 PM ET (US) where is the oil tank? dont see it in any of the pics.