posted 06-14-2002 01:18 PM ET (US)            

If you don’t mind me asking, what is your fuel consumption at cruise speed and at wide open throttle? Also, at what speed and RPM does she plane off? One of these days I am going to have to replace my beloved Yamies and am curious as to how the big Optimax performs. Thanks again for the photos,

posted 06-14-2002 04:03 PM ET (US)         

As an original owner of a factory full transom 25, it's interesting to see this glass job and interior modification. It seems to be beautiful workmanship, but I do have some constructive criticism, based on my own up-close knowledge of BW's own conversion work, which should be mentioned. This is only written as a point of information for you and others who may be considering a similar revision, and as something that could be considered for an upgrade. But it seems that the dealer who made the modification was inexperienced on the marine design/safety elements of such a job, and missed some of the essential elements of the full transom conversion the way BW would want it done. It should be be relatively simple to correct, if desired. It appears that the original factory splash well dam has been taken down to floor level, and then a new storage compartment constructed. On the factory full transoms, they did not do this, as I believe this "beam" acts as a hull transom stiffener on all Outrages. I would not have done this, and wonder how water is removed from the lower, deeper, back portion of the sealed off spashwell. BW installs a 500GPH self contained float switch Attwood auto pump exiting through the Starboard sidewall. It is unswitched originally, but I added an on-off switch. On the factory notched transom boats, all series, the purpose of the splash well is to contain water at the stern, where it can automatically drain away. The outboard engine "notch" is important in this regard, as it allows the boat to get rid of swamping water fast. It APPEARS (correct me if I am wrong) that this conversion frustrates this VERY important and potentially life saving feature by closing it off. In looking at the transom pictures, both inside and out, I see no way to dump water fast, except for what can run through the dual sump drains on the hull bottom. On the BW constructed full transoms, they installed a pair of 3" floor drains, both through the spash well dam, and through the outer transom, with exhaust cover flappers. These elements can be seen on various photos of my boat scattered around the site. Even this arrangement is not as good as the transom notch/conventional splashwell, but I would recommend this addition, if it can be accomodated. It does get rid of water pretty quickly. As we all know, offshore, one needs to get rid of an onboard wave fast. If I have missed something here, please ignore all of this.

The other shortcoming seems to be the stern cleat/tow eye/lifting eye situation. On the Whaler Drive models, the TIE-UP (only) cleats, 8" Marinium, are through-bolted and plate-backed on the top surface of the transom deck corners, with stickers saying "NO TOW". This would be simple to accomplish on yours also. Where the shop located them will also probably work for tie-up, although inconvenient, but for NOTHING else. So the conversion seems to lack the towing and lifting eyes that BW would recommend, not that they are used all that much. The present cleats are mounted in an area of foam only, so towing or lifting would be out the question, even if they are backed with an aluminum plate. These areas of the hull are simply not meant for high load bearing hardware situations. I'm also wondering where the transom tie down straps are hooked on, as these would not be safe for that function also. On my full transom installation, having bought the full transom bare, without hardware but with above mentioned drains installed, so the bracket could first be installed, BW furnished me, loose, four SS 1/2" HD transom eyes, 6" long. Two were for lifting/towing, to be installed ABOVE the bracket top, and two were for "below bracket platform" trailering transom tie-down straps. The factory told me these MUST be installed ONLY through the plywood re-inforced section of the raised transom surface, which in the full transom conversion goes all the way up to the top deck surface.
BW's notch enclosure also brings the raised portion all the way up, to accomodate the plywood inside. This is so strongly mated to the notched transom, (don't know how they did this) that the boat and engines can be lifted by eyes installed in this new work!
I do not know whether your re-work in this area could handle the load of the lifting/towing eyes, but I noticed they did not bring this raised plywood area up. The trailering eyes are also installed below the bracket, in the original plywood transom area.

I don't know if you use downriggers in your fishing, but many around here run a pair straight back off the transom deck corners. For that reason, I had my Armstrong bracket constructed less than full tranosm width, so the weights could drop straight down for fishing. This is BIG problem for all of BW's newer euro transom designs, for those who fish with downriggers.

Finally, they should have installed the bracket for a single 30" engine (same height as for 25" twins), since by extending the engine back 26", the engine tends to get submerged by the wake at less than planing speeds. Don't know if this is an issue for you. But this is standard procedure (adding 5" of shaft length) for Armstrong bracket installations. The installer should have known this, and it would have affected how the transom build up was done. Maybe they just took the easy way out.

posted 06-14-2002 06:38 PM ET (US)         

BW installed the 3" diameter drain scuppers, right at floor level of the splash well, and just outside of the plywood transom (raised on outside) area. They simply epoxyed in 3" white PVC pipe, drilled through the foam-only portion of the transom, leaving it roughly finished on the inside of the transom (since it doesn't show) and projecting about 3/4" on the outside. Over this lip, a standard 3" black Salisbury exhaust flapper is clamped on. You will also probably have to drill the 3" openings through the inside glasswork. See the Reference section for the part Whaler used. Something like it can probably be found at Marine stores in the ventilation section. Once installed through the transom, the flapper round sleeve and PVC pipe can be notched to allow your transducer cables to enter the boat very neatly, and barely exposed on the transom under the bracket. I noticed the awkward one coming up over your platform. You will be able to eliminate that. Once these flapper drains are in place, you will definitely need the bilge pump I described above in the deep recess of the transom, as water will now be able to get in there when backing down, etc, or if you have some people standing in the stern while at rest. Normally, however, they will be above water at rest and self drain.

I would certainly consider the extra 5" extension kit for your engine. That's how Mercury does them at the factory anyway. Parts should be readily available for a simple conversion to 30". Then you can get the CMC 1/2" thick static (non-adjustable) lift plates, designed explicitly for this purpose of mounting a 5" longer shaft engine. The whole conversion should not cost alot, and for offshore duty, will get the engine up where it belongs. Highly recommended. My twins are 25" shafts, instead of the usual 20" the standard 25 transom required. The extra height shows in many of the picture.

For your transom tie downs, use the U-bolts I described (same as the bow eye) and drill them through the plywood section of the transom, near the edge of the raised area.
In an emergency, these could then also be used for towing, although tough to access under that platform. For lifting, you have may use a hull sling, as I would not be willing to test the built up transom area with lifting eyes and 2 tons of load, an unknown commodity to you. It may be perfectly OK, but who knows. Could be strong enough for the towing U-bolts, however.